PDA

View Full Version : For those of you that do store outdoors during the winter


El Jeffe
10-05-2009, 07:56 PM
I've been fortunate that for the last several years I have had the good fortune of "indoor storage"

Well this year is different and I need to store outdoors...

Aside from winterizing and covering (i intend to use the MasterCraft cover that came with the boat) are theer any other items I should concern myself with?

Should I store my cushions in the garage?
Take my battery out and store in the garage?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

88 PS190
10-05-2009, 08:01 PM
I would strongly consider drying it out and having it shrink wrapped.

Would pull the battery, but if the seats were dry I'd keep them in the boat unless you can keep them in the house.

I would not rely on the factory mastercraft cover outside in winter.

JohnE
10-05-2009, 08:22 PM
I'd also shrink wrap it.

El Jeffe
10-05-2009, 08:23 PM
Doesn't shrink wrapping encourage mold given that it can't breathe at all?

El Jeffe
10-05-2009, 08:36 PM
I would strongly consider drying it out and having it shrink wrapped.

Would pull the battery, but if the seats were dry I'd keep them in the boat unless you can keep them in the house.

I would not rely on the factory mastercraft cover outside in winter.



Seats in the garage ok? Wife probably won't go for them in the house...Unless I sleep in the boat.

coz
10-05-2009, 09:15 PM
Seats in the garage ok? Wife probably won't go for them in the house...Unless I sleep in the boat.

Funny :D
Garage would be good.

88 PS190
10-05-2009, 10:13 PM
Depends on the garage, on ours I'd not leave seats laying around it, I use tools out there and it could get get issues with mice and such.

As far as mold I would shrink wrap the boat with plenty of dessicant, and I would make sure to dry it out first, I'd do this by parking it in your garage tarp off fans and heat if available.

I've seen plenty of boats where you go out midwinter, tarp on and find it fairly damp inside. Not going to be less moldy than if it can breath well.

Sodar
10-05-2009, 10:39 PM
Shrink wrap is the way to go. Most boatyards do it for ~$10 per foot. It also saves your cover from the elements. I am not sure if you get snow where you are or not, but if you do, the shrink wrap lets the snow and rain slide off the boat easier.

Hrkdrivr
10-05-2009, 11:30 PM
Doesn't shrink wrapping encourage mold given that it can't breathe at all?

They can install vents to allow a little air circulation.

Miss Rita
10-05-2009, 11:43 PM
I've ordered a "Top Gun" cover from Mike at skiboatcovers.com. (very nice guy, BTW) It's waterproof, vented, trailerable and reusable. I hate to leave the MC outside, but I think this cover is going to make everything OK.

The battery will spend the winter in the garage on the tender.

FamilyX2
10-06-2009, 12:17 AM
Dry boat interier/carpet.
No wet life jackets etc, left in.
Hang dehumidifier/dessicant bag.
Shrink wrap boat.

works perfectly up here for (unfortunately) 7-8 months storage.

El Jeffe
10-06-2009, 12:33 AM
I've ordered a "Top Gun" cover from Mike at skiboatcovers.com. (very nice guy, BTW) It's waterproof, vented, trailerable and reusable. I hate to leave the MC outside, but I think this cover is going to make everything OK.

The battery will spend the winter in the garage on the tender.

Crazy Q...I am sure it has another supply...

But what happens to the hour meter (or any other electronics) if you remove the battery for an extended period of time?

Miss Rita
10-06-2009, 11:21 AM
But what happens to the hour meter (or any other electronics) if you remove the battery for an extended period of time?

I'll lose the radio presets, but I can handle that.

SkiDog
10-06-2009, 11:23 AM
Go to your local dealer and see if you can get the cover that the boat was shipped with. Along with your standard boat cover, that ought to keep her dry.

Ski-me
10-06-2009, 02:00 PM
When I lived in Seattle I used the "drying" granules if I remember correctly. I did also check it every so often and if the sun came out, I opened it up to keep things dry. Just keep your eye on it over the winter. If the battery is removed, nothing detrimental will happen except just losing your radio presets. Gauges and everything else is just fine.

Now that I'm in Colorado, I use to keep it in the garage but after our remodel and renting a space, my wife really likes the extra room. I found an enclosed storage place with a 10x30 bay for $124/month (after negotiations). I have extra room to store the motorcycles and a dining table so it's worth it for us.

bigmac
10-06-2009, 02:51 PM
I strongly recommend shrink wrap because it presents the lowest likelihood of snow pooling/collapsing/leaking. The absolute KEY factor, however, is ventilation. Most shrink-wrap places will (for a price) add vents to the wrap. I am a great believer in ACTIVE ventilation, however, so if you can put one of those turbo dryers (http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/16922-air-dryer-dehumidifier-from-west-marine.html)in there, IMHO you'll be far better off.

If the battery isn't going to be easily available to check, then I agree keeping it in the garage on a float charger is best. Otherwise, it's fine to leave the battery connected to the boat and keep it on the Battery Tender all winter.

El Jeffe
10-06-2009, 02:59 PM
Looks like consensus is shrink wrap...Any recommendations in the greater Seattle are for shrink wrapper?

Oh...And I don't have a tender charger...Just a regular "sears Die Hard Fully Automatic Battery Charger/Engine Starter"

Was thinking maybe I should throw the charger on it once a month or so...Thoughts?

Ski-me
10-06-2009, 03:25 PM
Never used them but got an email a week or 2 ago....just happened to be in your area even though I haven't lived there in 8 years!


We are currently offering $50 dollars off complete winterization for your boat.

http://www.eastsideoffshore.com/specials.aspx

* Winterization protects from freeze damage and corrosion

* It's cheaper than a new engine

* Save your investment today


Call now to make an appointment.


425-822-5300



For a price check:
I am paying $315 for winterization and dewinterization (in the spring) which includes an oil change and an additional $65 for a tranny service, too.

bigmac
10-06-2009, 03:28 PM
Oh...And I don't have a tender charger...Just a regular "sears Die Hard Fully Automatic Battery Charger/Engine Starter"

Was thinking maybe I should throw the charger on it once a month or so...Thoughts?

My thoughts are to get a float charger and leave it on the battery all winter. You can get a Battery Tender Jr. for $22. A standard Battery Tender is $44. (Amazon.com)

El Jeffe
10-06-2009, 03:43 PM
Anyone had any luck or know anything about "reusable shrink wrap systems"

These guys are local and come recommended.
http://site.eastsideshrinkwrap.com/reusablecovers.html

CMack225vrs
10-06-2009, 08:21 PM
Anyone had any luck or know anything about "reusable shrink wrap systems"

These guys are local and come recommended.
http://site.eastsideshrinkwrap.com/reusablecovers.html

I would be interested in any feedback as well. I am trying one for the first time this year. The shop said to expect to get three to four years out of one.

El Jeffe
10-06-2009, 08:27 PM
I would be interested in any feedback as well. I am trying one for the first time this year. The shop said to expect to get three to four years out of one.

If we get enough TTers maybe we can press them for a discount...They quuoted me around $300 for my X-1

vandit0022
10-06-2009, 10:07 PM
I strongly recommend shrink wrap because it presents the lowest likelihood of snow pooling/collapsing/leaking. The absolute KEY factor, however, is ventilation. Most shrink-wrap places will (for a price) add vents to the wrap. I am a great believer in ACTIVE ventilation, however, so if you can put one of those turbo dryers (http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/16922-air-dryer-dehumidifier-from-west-marine.html)in there, IMHO you'll be far better off.

If the battery isn't going to be easily available to check, then I agree keeping it in the garage on a float charger is best. Otherwise, it's fine to leave the battery connected to the boat and keep it on the Battery Tender all winter.

I think I'm going to get one of those turbo heater fans. Do you just put it on the floor and let it do it's thing? Still works with just the standard MC cover?

El Jeffe
10-06-2009, 10:21 PM
I think I'm going to get one of those turbo heater fans. Do you just put it on the floor and let it do it's thing? Still works with just the standard MC cover?

Vandit 0022 Are you in the Seattle Area? If so are you up for seeing if we can get one of these Shrink Wrap guys to give us a TTer discount?

FamilyX2
10-06-2009, 10:38 PM
My MC dealer had two options for shrink wrapping:

a one-time/disposable wrap
a reusable wrap (said it should last 4-5 yrs if handled carefully)

El Jeffe
10-06-2009, 11:46 PM
My MC dealer had two options for shrink wrapping:

a one-time/disposable wrap
a reusable wrap (said it should last 4-5 yrs if handled carefully)


What was the cost of those two options.

bigmac
10-07-2009, 08:50 AM
I think I'm going to get one of those turbo heater fans. Do you just put it on the floor and let it do it's thing? Still works with just the standard MC cover?

When I put my boat away in my storage building for the winter, I just lay the turbo heater on the floor on top of the deck access hatch and plug it in. Then I put a Battery Tender on the battery (leaving the battery connected), scatter some dryer sheets (don't know if that's an old wives tale or not) around the boat and some D-Con boxes around the floor. Then I put the standard cockpit and tonneau covers on the boat and that's it. I let the Battery Tender and turbo heater go all winter, check it every so often. I've never had mold, boat starts right up in the spring. The turbo heater warms the air a little and blows it around gently - just needs to keep the air inside the boat above dew point and prevent condensation under the cover - doesn't take much.

5280Hawk
10-09-2009, 06:25 PM
Here's what i did with my 02 X-star, I live in Denver and will be storing it on the side of my house.

I let my boat dry out for about a week, then took the battery out. I put the cover on, and Collapsed the tower. Then I put a Blue plastic tarp over the Boat and tower. I bought some Plastic "alligator" clips from Home depot - they basically clamp on to the tarp where ever you want. I clamped the tarp down, eight of them on each side and bungeed it to the Trailer so it's nice and tight.

I will still be out there everytime it snows though to clean it off, but this system should be re-useable for a few years, and I only spent about $75-80 on the tarp, clips, and bungees.

Bouyhead
11-03-2010, 10:15 AM
I've been using this winter cover for several years with good results. The major benefit for me is the ability to uncover the boat during the off season to tinker and make repairs and re-cover in about 15 minutes. The plastic sheeting is 6 mil so it's pretty thick, it breathes well,& it can carry the snow load. However, I always remove any accumulated snow after a snowfall. All parts are re-usable except the plastic. The frame for the front is higher than the rear. Don't make the peak to high as the plastic sheeting is only 10' wide. Just another way to skin a cat I mean cover a Prostar.

Bouyhead
11-03-2010, 10:18 AM
One more pic.
62696

thatsmrmastercraft
11-03-2010, 10:46 AM
I've been using this winter cover for several years with good results. The major benefit for me is the ability to uncover the boat during the off season to tinker and make repairs and re-cover in about 15 minutes. The plastic sheeting is 6 mil so it's pretty thick, it breathes well,& it can carry the snow load. However, I always remove any accumulated snow after a snowfall. All parts are re-usable except the plastic. The frame for the front is higher than the rear. Don't make the peak to high as the plastic sheeting is only 10' wide. Just another way to skin a cat I mean cover a Prostar.

Nice job. Did you just bend conduit to form the supports?

Bouyhead
11-04-2010, 06:36 AM
Thanks. Yep, Just bend the conduit to your specs. Those supports were given to me by a ski buddy who is an electrician. IIRC the conduit comes in 10' lenghts so you need to join them at some point. If the aluminum conduit is available it's easy to work with.