View Full Version : 07 X2 tower wiring

10-03-2009, 03:24 AM
I was trying to wire up my new tower speakers (no lights) and ran into an obstacle. The tower is pre-wired, but on the passenger side coming out of the front leg I have: Green/Green black, Purple/Purple Black (4 speaker wires for 1 pair). On the driver side, I have 6 wires coming out and they are all marked differently with no color code matching on two of the same wires (exampl: green/green black, etc...).

This tower isn't pre-wired for a bridge/2 ohm setup is it? I would assume they are wiring it 4 ohm stereo, but i'm having a hard time matching up the wires that are sitting at each tower mount location and then looking at the wires coming out of the holes on each side of the front tower mounts.

Anyone know the color codes? None of my amps are hooked up because everything is out of the boat being installed on an amp rack I'm making. I was trying to pre-run all wires to the location of the new amp rack, but this is causing some delays.

10-03-2009, 04:11 AM
actually I just confirmed. I ran a speaker wire from my garage stereo/reciever and plugging it (temporarily) into the harness on the passenger side (the tower is unplugged and folded down in the garage) and it actually fired up both tower speakers on the passenger side of the tower. So basically I have 2 speaker wires coming out of the passenger side tower to power 4 speakers.

This mixes things up a bit now because I was going to use a 4 channel amp for the 4 tower speakers, but I don't think I can the way the wiring is. I'm not really sure I want to run new wire since MasterCraft has everything tied into a quick release wiring harness.

Any ideas?

10-03-2009, 10:22 AM
since I basically only have one left channel and one right channel for the tower (that powers 4 speakers), I ohm'd each channel out and it came to 2 ohm load. Each speaker is 4 ohms, which means they pre-wire all the towers in parallel.

I can bridge my amp from a 4 channel to a 2 channel, but what does this make my setup now? 2 ohm stereo load??

10-03-2009, 10:23 AM
You can. I is actually wired stock this way as well. You can bridge the four channels on those two speakers. Put one channel on the left and wire it to that bridge, and do the same for the right. This obviously puts the speakers in 2 ohm mode, so make sure your amp can do that and find out what the out is at the ohm rating.

10-03-2009, 10:52 AM
I have the JL4500 underneath my JL6600. The 4500 powers the 4 tower speakers. Would it help you at all if I looked at the factory wiring going into that amp? When I use the fader it fades between the cockpit speakers and the tower speakers. (fade front is cockpit, fade rear is tower)

10-03-2009, 01:06 PM
nah, no biggy. I think I'm just going to run an additional wire in between each pair of tower speakers from one negative on one speaker to the other positive on the other speaker and that will put everything in Series for me. I guess that's the easiest way to fix it.

But if you are bored witness, let me know. :)

10-03-2009, 01:16 PM
As long as your amp can handle 2 ohm loads (check the specs on the amp), then the easiest this is to bridge the channels. This is how I have mine setup and its works great. The other connector you mentioned is wiring for tower lights.

10-04-2009, 07:50 AM
Mine is now hooked up the same in the 2 ohm configuration to my WS Double Up package on the tower. I think it sounds really good and have no problems.

The previous owner paid a car stereo shop to install the amp and speakers and did a real hack job of it. When I first got the boat the speakers sounded real bad, couldn't figure out why until I started tearing the installation apart. They ran the speaker wiring from the amp on the passenger side to the wires on the driverís side and used the tower light wires for the speakers. Worse yet they had all four tower speakers wired to a single channel on the amp. This resulted in a 1 ohm load to a single channel on the amp.

The same monkeys wired in the battery on/off switch and this was the result. I should have known the stereo installation was a mess after seeing the wonderful job they did on the battery switch. It took most of the summer to get it all corrected and cleaned up.

The real kicker is that the boat was advertised as having a $3K ďprofessionally installedĒ stereo system. Itís the running joke now and I take a beating from my friendís every time someone sees something thatís been installed poorly.

10-04-2009, 01:35 PM
nice work on the cleanup. Yah, when I noticed those wires on the driver side, I was wondering if anyone tries to use them for speaker connection (I would never). It's really not that hard to just run all new wires and buy a Stainless Steel Quick disconnect.

I think I'm just goint to run a jumper in between each pair of speakers and make it an 8 ohm series load (per two speakers) and then use the existing wires and quick disconnect that mastercraft put on there. This seems easiest to me. I can't believe they run all tower wiring in parallel, but whatever.. :)

Just finished my amp rack, I need to run the jumpers between each pair on the tower and clean everything up and I will post my pics soon.

Eagle Lake Rebel
10-04-2009, 05:43 PM
My '07 X30 is wired the same way (factory parallel) I think this is unique to '07 boats only. '07 was the first year the towers camed wired from the factory. I ended up running a wire on the right and left in the tower so I could run my amps briged. I know I'm loosing some power running the tower @ 8 ohms, but the bulk of the amps out there are not stable briged with a 2 ohm load connected. I don't have the time to rewire the tower right now and my amps run very cool with the 8 ohm load connected as I would expect.

10-04-2009, 09:15 PM
Most amplifiers will double their output when they see a 2 Ohm load. So there is no harm whatsoever in putting the wires as you have them now directly into just 2 channels on your amp. You will still get the same output to all 4 speakers as you would if you ran separate wires to all 4 channels. In fact, you would only use 2 channels on the amp and could use the other 2 for another sub or an extra pair of cabin speakers. That is what MC was planning to do if you had ordered the boat with 4 speakers and is not a bad practice.

IIRC, those wires are 18 guage, maybe 16(?), and if you are putting much wattage up there, you should probably go bigger anyway. I rewired my tower with bigger wire and took out the MC plug in the tower, but I am running 500 Watts through each wire.

I do not see the need to keep the MC harness at the tower breakdown point, unless you take your tower apart regularly. Does that need to come apart when you put the tower down? (I never have to take mine down, so I don't know).

10-05-2009, 01:39 AM
yah, I can't drop the tower unless I disconnect the MC speaker wire harness and tower light harness. Tonight, I just ran a jumper in between each pair of speakers to run it in series (8 ohm load for 2 4 ohm speakers) and ohm'd it out at the harness and it looks good.

Well actually when I ohm'd it out, the ohms didn't match up exactly. I guess I thought it would read exactly 8 ohms for each pair, but one pair was like 8.9 ohms and the other was like 10.1 ohms.

Why if they are wired in series do they not read exactly 8 ohms? I ohm'd each tower speaker out and they read around 4.1 - 4.3 ohms each.

Kind of confusing really. I'm assuming it just has to be close, not exact??

10-05-2009, 07:07 AM
I would assume that it is added resistance in the wire going to the speakers and the connectors. This is part of the reason why they have distance limitations on the installation. The type and quality of the wiring and connector is also going to be a factor too. Can't help but wonder if a tralier wiring connector is the best choice for a speaker system.

10-05-2009, 05:23 PM
I have just decided to pull all the wire out and run new wiring with an 8 pin quick disconnect harness. That way, I know that good heavy duty wiring is ran, without anything being tapped in or unknown connection inside the tower. Not saying that MC did a bad job, it's just not the way I want my tower wiring ran (ran in parallel with trailer wiring connectors on the disconnect).

To many issues at this point and I think I would just be happy with all new wiring. Then I can run any type of load by having all the wires coming out near the amps.

10-05-2009, 06:13 PM
Couldn't agree more. Let me know what type connector you end up with. I'd like to use one of the new automotive weather proof connectors you see under the hood of the new cars. I have a friend that works at Yazaki that I'll have to hit up and see what he can do. I'm also looking into the new battery terminal fuses that they started putting on the new cars.

10-05-2009, 07:31 PM
man, I'm having a hard time finding an 8 pin connector right now. :(

I really don't want one that I have to solder. It would be nice to find an 8 pin round connector that is quick disconnect and it's actually barrel shaped (not flat like the one MC puts on). I thought I have seen these connectors somewhere and you just push your wire in there and it locks in, but can't seem to find them now.

10-05-2009, 11:17 PM
Maybe an 8 pin deutsch connector? They use them all over the place on my motorcycle. The pins crimp on the wire. Very easy to pull the connector apart if you ever need to.

Something like this:


10-06-2009, 02:35 AM
yah,Tonight, I just ran a jumper in between each pair of speakers to run it in series (8 ohm load for 2 4 ohm speakers) and ohm'd it out at the harness and it looks good.

What is the advantage of running them in series vs. parallel?

10-06-2009, 01:45 PM
here's a good explanation (link below), but depending on what you have for amps pushing your speakers all depends on running everything in stereo, bridged 4 ohms, Series (2 4ohm speakers would make it 2 ohms total), parallel (2 4ohm speakers would make it 8 ohms total), etc.......And how can the amp handle the loads and the type of wiring you have. If you just plug all 4 speaker wires into a 4 channel amp, then I guess you don't have to worry because the amp is essentially running at it's weakest level. If you change up the wiring, you can get more out of your amplifier if you have the ability to change the wiring and the correct amp that can handle that load change.

I'm sure I'm not explaining it correctly like others can.


12-23-2009, 08:45 AM
What did you end up doing, right now I only have 2 speakers on the tower, and am going to add 2 more, when I can find them at the right price, I was thinking of using 2 jl audio sub amps for the tower speakers wired together in parallel. This way I'd get over 150 watts rms to each channel, and some of the jl audio sub amps are full range for this reason. I want my tower speakers REALLY loud so can hear them while on my sky ski + I got a wetsounds 420 pa/preamp which would be cool to be really loud as well. Sub amps are pretty cheap on ebay, but I am still looking at $900 for three of them. 2 for the tower speakers and 1 for the sub, then change the configuration of the stock amp in there now, ie bridge 4 channels for main cockpit and leave the other 2 for the bow. Being that sub mono power is very clean, I should be able to push the rms power ratings of the tower speakers a bit.

12-29-2009, 09:55 PM
I just re-wired the entire tower and bought some heavy duty connectors. It was kind of a pain to pull the big speaker wires thru the bottom leg of the tower because everything inside that bottom leg funnels into a smaller diameter and then has a 90 degree elbow (or something like that) that feeds thru the hull. Make sure you have a heavy duty pull string.