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View Full Version : help with removing rusty water stains and rudder


DooSPX
10-01-2009, 12:46 PM
My exhaust risers must have leaked at one time, and there is a little bit of rusty drip stains down the manifold. What can I use to get it off?? also, my rudder is showing its age, what can I do to bring it to life again? I was hoping that "TARNITE" METAL POLISH that TMCNo1 recommend would help but im not sure. Have any idea's on that? im looking for a blinged out polished gear, but just clean and nice.

flipper
10-01-2009, 01:11 PM
Metal polish and some elbow grease will clean up your gear for sure. Clean up the rust with what ever, maybe clr or something and spray the whole engine with silicon spray to protect it.

DooSPX
10-01-2009, 01:19 PM
thanks! when the boat used to sit on a lift, the last couple inches on the rudder was still in the water, and you can tell. think some polish and hard work will still help? while im at it, I want to polish up my pylon, not to chrome like finish just shiny. is the pylon coated?

flipper
10-01-2009, 02:13 PM
Yes the rudder can still look good as new. Not sure on the pylon.

flipper
10-01-2009, 02:14 PM
I hear this stuff works great on towers, probably pylons too

http://www.boatersland.com/wwxwwk16.html

TEAL98
10-13-2009, 10:32 PM
I'm not sure what others prefer but it is my personal preference to use Eagle One's NEVR-DULL (spelled just like that). It's only like 3 or 4 bucks and you can get it at auto zone, advance, wal-mart, just about anywhere. The stuff works real well. The only trick is that the more you rub, the better it looks., and "experts" say not to let it dry, but some will tell you otherwise. Sounds like a major PITA, but man does it pay off. Years ago my old man had a '64 Cherokee 235 and I went to town on that thing for 2 days straight and still to this day I haven't even seen a brand new Piper, Cessna, Mooney, etc. with a shinier prop. I'll probly invest some time in mine when I attempt my first winterization this weekend.

~Jon

DooSPX
10-13-2009, 10:49 PM
I'm not sure what others prefer but it is my personal preference to use Eagle One's NEVR-DULL (spelled just like that). It's only like 3 or 4 bucks and you can get it at auto zone, advance, wal-mart, just about anywhere. The stuff works real well. The only trick is that the more you rub, the better it looks., and "experts" say not to let it dry, but some will tell you otherwise. Sounds like a major PITA, but man does it pay off. Years ago my old man had a '64 Cherokee 235 and I went to town on that thing for 2 days straight and still to this day I haven't even seen a brand new Piper, Cessna, Mooney, etc. with a shinier prop. I'll probly invest some time in mine when I attempt my first winterization this weekend.

~Jon

thanks! You talking about the pylon?

TMCNo1
10-13-2009, 11:21 PM
PS to your pm, while you've got the riser and mainfold apart to replace the gasket (if that's causing the rust), wipe them down good with lacquer thinner and repaint them with Krylon Gloss Black.

The pylon should be clear anodized and you'll have to remove it to be able to polish it.

TEAL98
10-13-2009, 11:55 PM
I wouldn't use NEVER-DULL on the pylon because of what TMC says with it being anodized. If you wanted to risk it, just make sure you rub directionally with the grain, but even I wouldn't use it for that application. I was referring to the rudder on the bottom of the boat. I'm gunna do mine and the prop as well this weekend.

MidTexSkier
10-14-2009, 07:57 AM
on anodized surfaces we use Formula409.