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View Full Version : First Ski/wakeboard Boat!!!


wakesurfer
09-27-2009, 11:29 PM
Hi everyone and respect to the MC fraternity. Just bought 1995 prostar 190 had a few silly newbie questions need help with:
1. previous owner was not sure how long gas had been in engine supposedly 30 plus days, is there any way to verify if the gas is good or bad before starting the engine and causing probs?
2. oil on dipstick looks black, what type of oil should I use to replace with the best money can buy?
3. the previous owner says that the engine is a chevy engine? the only obvious things I can see are : black engine , with blue text EFI on it can anyone tell me which engine this is original or not, and is there a link to the engine break down and maintenance?
4. the hull is in good condition, just at the bottom of the bow I guess where the boat was beached the gel coat is gone and I can see brown/gold fiberglass looking coat, with what and how should I repair this or is it ok to leave it like that?
5. the prop looks to be original three blade, two blades have tips bent a little, no cracks or tears, is that ok, and if not can it be repaired or not worth it and does the type of prop effect the wake ? since we will be wake surfing and boarding ?
Thanks for your time will post pictures asap appreciate in advance all the help I can get ....

MariStar-Man
09-28-2009, 12:58 AM
1. Drain all gas and buy 91+ octane.

2. Best oil is oil with Gold Particles in it. They haven't invented it yet, but that would be the best...

3. Look into the manual, or take lots of BIG pictures and post them here...

4. i would reapair everything and make it lke new... ( Search ) = Gelcoat. Lots of info here...

5. Put a 6 blade prop on her. 3 is good so 6 would be better...

Ps. ignore all but #1 & 3 as it's sunday night and I still feel a little woozy and can't think from 3 days on the lake...:D

JohnE
09-28-2009, 09:15 AM
Hi everyone and respect to the MC fraternity. Just bought 1995 prostar 190 had a few silly newbie questions need help with:
1. previous owner was not sure how long gas had been in engine supposedly 30 plus days, is there any way to verify if the gas is good or bad before starting the engine and causing probs?
2. oil on dipstick looks black, what type of oil should I use to replace with the best money can buy?
3. the previous owner says that the engine is a chevy engine? the only obvious things I can see are : black engine , with blue text EFI on it can anyone tell me which engine this is original or not, and is there a link to the engine break down and maintenance?
4. the hull is in good condition, just at the bottom of the bow I guess where the boat was beached the gel coat is gone and I can see brown/gold fiberglass looking coat, with what and how should I repair this or is it ok to leave it like that?
5. the prop looks to be original three blade, two blades have tips bent a little, no cracks or tears, is that ok, and if not can it be repaired or not worth it and does the type of prop effect the wake ? since we will be wake surfing and boarding ?
Thanks for your time will post pictures asap appreciate in advance all the help I can get ....


1. I'd drain the gas and replace.
2. Newer boats are recommended to use 15W40. I was also told that if I can't find that it is OK to use 10-40. Someone will chime in though for your year. But I imagine it is the same.
3. Post a pic and someone will know.
4. Definitely get the gel repaired otherwise further damage will occur. Post some pics and you will get an idea of how bad the damage is.
5. If it is an OJ prop, you can send it to them for repairs. Typically it costs $70 - $130

thatsmrmastercraft
09-28-2009, 09:41 AM
Congrats on the new boat and welcome!

You are getting all the right answers. Simple way to tell a GM from a Ford is the where the distributor is located. The Ford will have the dist in the front of the engine and the GM dist will be at the rear.

Pictures are big on this site. Makes getting accurate answers much easier.

Muttley
09-28-2009, 12:57 PM
At the risk of getting chastised...

1: 30 or even 60 days isn't really an issue. If it's 90 days, you may want to drain it. If the boat runs, run it to half a tank, then fill it with fresh. Even if you drain it, you'll still be burning the stuff in the lines anyway. You won't be doing damage by running 2 month old gas, it just might run a bit rough until it gets fresh stuff.

2: Oil is subjective. It's more important to change it with quality stuff (and a quality filter) at 50 hours or once a year than what you use. Some swear by Shell Rotella or Mobil 1, I like Amsoil 20-50 synthetic. Don't forget to change the tranny oil with Dextron 3 or 4.

3: You'd need to post a pic or go by the serial numbers. The hull number would tell you what's supposed to be in the boat, the engine number will tell you what it is. Sounds like a Chevy 350 efi to me which was an option. See your manual or hit the knowledge center on the Mastercraft site.

4: Yes, I would get the gel repaired. Some people don't worry about it, but I would at least roller (thin foam roller) some gel coat or marine enamel on it to keep it sealed.

5: A new prop can be expensive. You can (and should) get your prop repaired. Those bent edges can cause vibration and affect performance. It's $100 well spent. If you really want to replace it, you can go to a 4 blade for a bit more hole shot.

Chicago190
09-28-2009, 02:20 PM
1. Drain all gas and buy 91+ octane.

2. Best oil is oil with Gold Particles in it. They haven't invented it yet, but that would be the best...

3. Look into the manual, or take lots of BIG pictures and post them here...

4. i would reapair everything and make it lke new... ( Search ) = Gelcoat. Lots of info here...

5. Put a 6 blade prop on her. 3 is good so 6 would be better...

Ps. ignore all but #1 & 3 as it's sunday night and I still feel a little woozy and can't think from 3 days on the lake...:D

Nice of you to answer with such a worthless post to a first time owner, considering you set a record for stupidest questions asked about their boat. You telling someone to do a search is priceless.

scott023
09-28-2009, 03:06 PM
Nice of you to answer with such a worthless post to a first time owner, considering you set a record for stupidest questions asked about their boat. You telling someone to do a search is priceless.

ROTFLMFAO. Exactly what I was thinking 190. Good thing John came along and made things right.

ttu
09-28-2009, 03:16 PM
Nice of you to answer with such a worthless post to a first time owner, considering you set a record for stupidest questions asked about their boat. You telling someone to do a search is priceless.

omg, lmao!! that has to be the "post of the month". i am suprised he didn't post some 300 pics of his own boat.:uglyhamme

cmw
09-28-2009, 03:17 PM
You guys are taking yourselves to seriously. My first question was how to take care of my teak. It was a pile on, but all in good fun.

wakesurfer
09-28-2009, 03:28 PM
thanks for the pun! I can relate, to the fun. Appreciate all the info, ....dont worry more to come have a good week ahead!

wakesurfer
09-28-2009, 03:29 PM
Awesome help! thanks a lot1

wakesurfer
09-28-2009, 04:19 PM
thanks for all the help from the core. Here are some pictures.

Chicago190
09-28-2009, 04:32 PM
You have the standard 350 TBI engine. Very reliable and plenty of power.

Definitely fix the gelcoat damage ASAP.

wakesurfer
09-28-2009, 04:36 PM
thanks a lot for taking the time to respond.

JohnE
09-28-2009, 04:46 PM
Nice of you to answer with such a worthless post to a first time owner, considering you set a record for stupidest questions asked about their boat. You telling someone to do a search is priceless.

ROTFLMFAO. Exactly what I was thinking 190. Good thing John came along and made things right.

I thought about adding some similar comments but figured I'd refrain. Glad I wasn't the only one with these thoughts. :D

Chicago190
09-28-2009, 04:52 PM
thanks a lot for taking the time to respond.

Sorry I didn't mention, but you may have gathered anyway, it is a GM 350 Throttle Body Injected motor.

In addition to changing the engine oil and transmission fluid, I would replace the raw water pump impeller ($30) and fuel filter, unless you know they are new. Other basic maintenance items like cap and rotor, plugs, wires, etc. are up to you, but they can prevent you from being stranded and ruining a nice day on the lake.

wakesurfer
09-28-2009, 07:21 PM
appreciate the info man, it really helps, I've been on the salt water for most of my life and this is the first ski boat, i'm excited and nervous because I've had a lot of luck with outboards mostly being able to work on them myself. Being that this is the first inboard, seems things are more expensive and just want to do the right things at the begining so that I can minimize any probs in the future, since I dont know how well kept the boat was by the previous owners.

Chicago190
09-28-2009, 07:54 PM
appreciate the info man, it really helps, I've been on the salt water for most of my life and this is the first ski boat, i'm excited and nervous because I've had a lot of luck with outboards mostly being able to work on them myself. Being that this is the first inboard, seems things are more expensive and just want to do the right things at the begining so that I can minimize any probs in the future, since I dont know how well kept the boat was by the previous owners.

Well, the boat and trailer were obviously used in salt before, so you're going to want to go over it carefully.

Thrall
09-28-2009, 08:00 PM
By the general apeparance of the motor, the PO wasn't much into upkeep. Oil, 15W40 diesel grade oil reccomended, but any automotive engine oil will work fine...same engine as a Chevy pickup. AC PF454 or Napa 1069 oil filter. Suck out the trans fluid and change it. Get a $10 drill operated pump and some hose/fittings from teh hardware store to make a pump for teh engine oil and trans oil.
Impeller, fuel filter, clean the air filter, check all teh hose clamps, grease the steering cable and rudder (under panel behind the motor). Tune up if needed.
If you're used to outboards, IMO, these are much easier to work on. Most general parts are available at teh auto parts store too.
If it runs good, don't bother draining the gas, these engines are not that finicky. If you need to drain it, disconnect the line coming out of the fuel pump and stick a hose on it. Run 12V with some jumper wires from teh battery to the fp terminals an pump away. Drain the extra fuel out of my 190 every year like this (careful of sparks!).
Hammer out the prop and if it doesnt vibrate, you're ok, but not great. A new prop will do wonders over the stock OJ cupped prop. Many threads on the best prop.
Fix the gelcoat. At least paint or gel over that damage before putting it in the water anymore so the 'glass doesn't absorb anymore water. If it's been wet recently, I'd let it set and dry with nothing on it for a while.

wakesurfer
09-28-2009, 09:37 PM
Thanks for the details thats what I needed/wanted. People like you make it worthwhile to join this site. At the risk of being heckelled again, could someone tell me where to put the water hose into the engine so that I can start it without the boat being in the water? thanks.

FrankSchwab
09-28-2009, 10:20 PM
Follow the suction hose that goes from the raw water pump (the weird brass pump awkwardly attached to the crankshaft pulley) to the hull. If there's a tee and a hose bib, you're in good shape; that's where you'll attach the garden hose to run the boat out of the water.

If there is no tee, then you'll have to improvise. There's a device called a "fake-a-lake", which is basically a toilet plunger with a hose bib on it - you brace it up against the bottom of the boat over the water intake, and turn on the hose. Never used one myself. Here's (http://skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1046) a bunch of permanent mount solutions from Skidim. Alternatively, you can disconnect the suction hose on the raw water pump, attach a new hose and drop it in a bucket of water - the raw water pump will suck it up. Keep the bucket full.

I've seen a couple of fine-looking Home Depot-sourced solutions using a various brass bits. The Tee is easy; buy a cap to close the tee when you're not using it, and you're good. Make sure that the cap can't leak; it'll suck air through the cap and stop cooling the engine. You will have to have a way to shut off the suction hose down to the hull, however.

/frank

wakesurfer
09-28-2009, 10:34 PM
seriously this forum and site is beyond awesome, I have been around salt water boats, and many different types of hobbies and this one, is very supportive more than any other! thanks.

Chicago190
09-28-2009, 10:44 PM
Frank covered most of the bases.

I think it is a pain to crawl around in the bilge to disconnect the raw water intake hose from the through-hull fitting on the hull. I bought a ~4 ft. section of clear plastic hose with the same inner diameter as the raw water intake hose and connect it to the cold side of the transmission cooler. As I recall it says on the hose what the size is, but I do not know off the top of my head. I then stick the plastic hose in a 5 gallon bucket and keep it filled with water. The other nice thing about the plastic hose it is more flexible so it is easier to get into the bucket.

As for finding the raw water intake hose, transmission cooler, and through hull fitting, look at the last picture you posted. The hose at the very bottom, connected to the raw water pump - which if you look at the brass housing is also the place to replace the raw water pump impeller - will run along the bottom of the port-side of the engine, it will be connected to the transmission cooler, which is a black oval thing with lines running to the transmission. If you continue following the hose from the transmission cooler it will run down to the through hull fitting at the bottom of the bilge. On the underside of the boat at this point will be the brass plate where you would connect the Fake-A-Lake (plunger device Frank mentioned).

While I'm at it I will mention the transmission cooler has a screen on it to gather debris. Make sure to regularly check the cooler for clogs to prevent your engine from overheating.

Edit: It is safe to start the engine when it is connected to a water source, but you cannot put the boat into gear. The strut bushing is cooled and lubricated by water and will burn up if the prop shaft turns out of the water.

thatsmrmastercraft
09-28-2009, 10:54 PM
I have a "fake-a-lake" and it works fantastic. Whether you use a fake-a-lake or put the intake hose in a bucket, it will take a few moments before the water works through the system and exits out the exhaust. My first time I was a little concerned about the delay. Goose the throttle once or twice and you will have water circulating in no time.

If you purchase or put together an inline T which utilizes hose pressure, you will have water circulating through the system quicker. I plan to install one in the spring just for ease of use.

wakesurfer
09-29-2009, 05:10 PM
Frank covered most of the bases.

I think it is a pain to crawl around in the bilge to disconnect the raw water intake hose from the through-hull fitting on the hull. I bought a ~4 ft. section of clear plastic hose with the same inner diameter as the raw water intake hose and connect it to the cold side of the transmission cooler. As I recall it says on the hose what the size is, but I do not know off the top of my head. I then stick the plastic hose in a 5 gallon bucket and keep it filled with water. The other nice thing about the plastic hose it is more flexible so it is easier to get into the bucket.

As for finding the raw water intake hose, transmission cooler, and through hull fitting, look at the last picture you posted. The hose at the very bottom, connected to the raw water pump - which if you look at the brass housing is also the place to replace the raw water pump impeller - will run along the bottom of the port-side of the engine, it will be connected to the transmission cooler, which is a black oval thing with lines running to the transmission. If you continue following the hose from the transmission cooler it will run down to the through hull fitting at the bottom of the bilge. On the underside of the boat at this point will be the brass plate where you would connect the Fake-A-Lake (plunger device Frank mentioned).

While I'm at it I will mention the transmission cooler has a screen on it to gather debris. Make sure to regularly check the cooler for clogs to prevent your engine from overheating.

Edit: It is safe to start the engine when it is connected to a water source, but you cannot put the boat into gear. The strut bushing is cooled and lubricated by water and will burn up if the prop shaft turns out of the water.

Thank you very much this is very helpful, you are all saving me money, time, and heart ache!!!! Especially the last sentence!

Thrall
09-29-2009, 06:53 PM
And don't turn on the water to the boat before starting the engine. Either do it at the same time, or start the engine just before turning the water on (if you're using the tee or a fake alake). The entire cooling system can fill with water pretty quick and the water going to the exhaust manifolds will run right into the cylinders if there's not exhaust pressure present.
You can hydro lock the engine pretty quick if you're not careful.

Chi 190 is correct, except that you can bump it into gear for a second or 2, just don't leave it in gear, it will heat up the strut bushing.
Same with running the engine without water attached. Starting it for a couple seconds is fine, longer will burn up the raw water impeller. If you must run it for longer without water, remove the impeller or take the cover off and squirt some soap in to lube it. Then you only have to worry about shutting it off before it overheats, which takes a while on a cast iron chevy engine. (I've run small block chevies for a half hour without any coolant (demo derby!, blown water pump in BFE, etc). WOuldn't reccomend it as common practice, but it won't kill you to run it for a couple min in the driveway as long as you protect the impeller.

Chief
09-29-2009, 08:48 PM
Nice of you to answer with such a worthless post to a first time owner, considering you set a record for stupidest questions asked about their boat. You telling someone to do a search is priceless.

Concur, you would think that given the amount of worthless crap posted by Maristar Man he might provide some useful information to a new member.

You know everyone gave him good info so he decides to return the favor by being a total smartass.

Chief
09-29-2009, 08:55 PM
Welcome to the forum! You will find a wealth of information here Wakesurfer. Get yourself an account!

Go through your boat end to end. Start fresh with everthing possible or affordable. You can never go wrong with:
1. new gas and fuel filter
2. new oil and filter
3. new tranny oil and filter (if applicable)
4. grease all the steering points
5. Install a perko flusher and flush engine really well with Salt Away
6. Inspect the trailer and make sure your brakes work and the hubs are lubed.
7. Bleed the brakes
8. New Impeller, make sure transmission cooler is clean of any old Impeller chunks.

You will find a wealth of information here, sometimes not as already seen.

Good luck

JohnE
09-29-2009, 11:00 PM
Welcome to the forum! You will find a wealth of information here Wakesurfer. Get yourself an account!

Good luck

Agreed. email Phil.Walker@mastercraft.com and tell him you want to be able to login as a regular user instead of a guest. There is a glitch that occurred and if you sign in from one particular link you get logged in as a guest instead of as a user.

And Chief is dead on in the rest of his analyses.;)

wakesurfer
09-30-2009, 04:45 PM
Welcome to the forum! You will find a wealth of information here Wakesurfer. Get yourself an account!

Go through your boat end to end. Start fresh with everthing possible or affordable. You can never go wrong with:
1. new gas and fuel filter
2. new oil and filter
3. new tranny oil and filter (if applicable)
4. grease all the steering points
5. Install a perko flusher and flush engine really well with Salt Away
6. Inspect the trailer and make sure your brakes work and the hubs are lubed.
7. Bleed the brakes
8. New Impeller, make sure transmission cooler is clean of any old Impeller chunks.

You will find a wealth of information here, sometimes not as already seen.

Good luck

Thank you very much for all your help this site and the people like you are what make America a great place to be. Ole Glory is flying high at my home.