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View Full Version : Damper plate, 87 ps190, 351w...Big Job??


c141trashhauler
08-24-2009, 12:22 PM
I had a starter problem recently. Easy enough to fix, right? When I took the old one out to take it to the rebuilder, and put in my spare, I found chunks of damper spring down in the bottom of the bell housing. I got all of it out of there with the use of a telescopic magnet.

The boat's running fine, but I have a new damper on order so I can replace the bad one when I pull the boat out for the winter (Minnesota).

Any of you fellas changed a damper? Any tricks? Special tools you had or wished you'd gotten for the job to save you pain?? Any big problems doing it? It's not rocket science, but it strikes me there's more than one way to skin a cat..so to speak.

1987 PS 190, Indmar Ford 351w
thanks a lot,
Steve

hkallestad
08-24-2009, 03:03 PM
Pretty straight forward, the fastest way is to remove the bellhousing together with the transmission, may be possible without taking the engine out of the boat, but much more conveniet to take the whole engine out of the boat as a start. Have a look here: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29505&highlight=rear+main+seal&page=3

Have a look in the engine manual for torque values for reassembling.

You should check you enginer alignment after putting the engine back in.

c141trashhauler
09-07-2009, 10:54 AM
Thanks for the info...

great pictures during your engine-out work.

Hawksinkalispell
09-16-2009, 05:55 PM
I did one on a Ski Supreme that I had same motor and tranny as my 89 tristar. I don't remember the specifics but I left the motor in, I had to support it with some blocks or an engine hoist and then just slid the tranny back, installed the new shock plate/dampener and slid it back together. I remember it was pretty easy and I didn't realine the engine probably not proper but it worked fine while I had it.

rholmes
09-16-2009, 11:47 PM
You don't have to remove the engine to do it. Just get a couple of bottle jacks from Harbor freight (like $15 a piece) and put them under the manifolds and raise from there. As long as the input shaft isn't rusted solid to the damper plate (like on mine) you shouldn't have any problems. IF you can do a brake job on a car, you can do this no problem.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=24037&highlight=front+seal

CantRepeat
09-17-2009, 06:42 AM
It this post you will find the transmission install and service manuals.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=32581

pkskier
09-17-2009, 02:28 PM
I replaced mine some years back and just put some blocks under the rear of the engine and pull the transmission and bell housing.

84MC
09-17-2009, 02:43 PM
I replaced the front seal on my transmission this past spring and replaced the damper plate while the tranny was off. All I needed for the damper plate was a tourque wrench. Pretty simple. 84 S&S BTW.

88 PS190
09-17-2009, 03:48 PM
When I did mine I wasn't sure how I was going to support the engine, my engine lift couldn't clear the side of the boat on the trailer. So I put the boat in the garage under the beam and used a couple ratchet straps instead. It worked nicely.

Before doing it I called a few MC dealers (none is quite local) one quoted it based on pulling the engine completely out and had quite a bit of labor, 8+ hours iirc. The other 3 hours or so, pulling transmission. I don't know why some do it one way? Perhaps on some boats you cannot pull the trans in place? Worked fine on mine.

The plate that came out of mine was a full circle with slits in it, only 3 bolts to secure it to the flywheel so 3 of the "pedals" were loose and were the actual cause of the noise I was hearing, the new product was triangular so it didn't have the other sections.