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MariStar-Man
08-13-2009, 11:18 AM
I just purchased a 1999 Maristar, with the MX MAX LTR, 330hp Engine. It looks like it has been coverd up for 3 years and used for only 2 hours last summer. Very nice condition, no cracks in leather, Engine looks clean, and only minor scrathes on the Gelcoat.

I'm moving up from a 12' 6 Zodiac classic with a 20hp, 4 stroke Yamaha. This is my first Real boat... Any tips?

I'll be picking it up next week and then should have better pictures.:

Here she is...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/M4.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/M3.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/M2.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/M1.jpg

Maristar-Man

Jimmauburn
08-13-2009, 11:25 AM
Nice boat and a great start !!!! Welcome to TT.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-13-2009, 11:57 AM
Well.............you don't kid around when you upgrade, do you. Looks great. Can't wait to see more pictures.

coz
08-13-2009, 12:01 PM
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h88/Rugbydude1/CopyofWelcomeAboard.jpg

TMCNo1
08-13-2009, 12:24 PM
Welcome to Team Talk.

dpolen
08-13-2009, 12:30 PM
Welcome! Great looking boat! I've got the same boat, but a year older. Been a very good boat for my family.

rspiecha
08-13-2009, 03:49 PM
Looks like a Maristar 210. Great boat.

Rob

MariStar-Man
08-14-2009, 10:44 AM
Thanks for the replies. The other party should be delivering it today. I would like to change all the fluids, and get her ready to take out...

MariStar-Man
08-15-2009, 11:39 AM
1999 with the Vortec Mx Max 330 hp.

I have looked and found that the previous owner used a nickle to enable the trailer to back up. Is there something better?
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01062.jpg

My deck looks a little rough...Lol!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/3.jpg

I have the 4Plug Round on the Motorhome. I assume I need some different type of plug for the trailer now?

MariStar-Man
08-15-2009, 11:40 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01059.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01060.jpg


My poles stick out kinda funky. i would assume they can be adjusted?
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01061.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01058.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-15-2009, 11:42 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01051.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01050.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01048.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/2.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-15-2009, 11:45 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/1.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/2.jpg


I looked under the boat and I can NOT find the dern WAter Pickup! I only found the bilge hole to let out the greasy water that was left in there. Is the pickup maybe under one of the carpeted supports?
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01052.jpg


Whers a good place for a boat cover?

Well, I still have to change Engine oil and transmission oil, plugs cap and rotor, Impeller. Any other suggestions?

Coming from a ZODIAC and a 20 hp Yamaha, I am a little overwhelmed with all the maintenance...I did come from Pleasanton MC dealer, and they said, "Buying boat was the cheap part...!"

cbryan70
08-15-2009, 11:45 AM
You coudl have posted all of these in one thread? Im sure they will get merged. Nice looking boat

Chicago190
08-15-2009, 11:48 AM
www.skiboatcovers.com is the best

MariStar-Man
08-15-2009, 11:49 AM
Hi, Initially I put them all in 1 thread, and it told me that i was limited to 4 img's per thread... So i had to seperate them and an it took sum time...

bigmac
08-15-2009, 12:15 PM
Most RV's have a 7 round terminal and need a 7-round to 5-flat adapter. Assuming your trailer has a solenoid to disengage the surge brakes when the vehicle is in reverse, you need to activate that somehow. That's the blue wire on the trailer side of the connector. Any 12 volt source applied to that blue wire (and the ground of course) will engage that solenoid. If your tow vehicle doesn't have a reverse signal to it's connector (which it won't if it is indeed a 4-round connector) then you could wire from your backup lights to that blue wire, which will then allow the trailer to back up when you put your vehicle into reverse, and you can avoid using the mechanical lockout

TMCNo1
08-15-2009, 12:32 PM
4/5 images per post, and you can add as many posts in a thread containing 4/5 pic as you wish, rather than starting a new thread for each set of pics.
If a moderator happens by, there is a slight chance they will merge them for you.

atlfootr
08-15-2009, 12:36 PM
Consider it done :D

TMCNo1
08-15-2009, 12:40 PM
Might I suggest that asap, straighten the trailer guide bars to a vertical position. Someone has been loading to boat too fast, bent them outward/forward and sooner than later they will probably allow you to get the prop into the trailer and you will get damage to the running gear and trailer.

MariStar-Man
08-15-2009, 12:48 PM
I am trying to start the engine in my driveway. the MC DEaler didn't Have Fake A Lake. Wherer can i tap into to hook up hose?

Anyone know if this yellow thingy has anything to do with hooking up water hose?

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01066.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01067.jpg

Thre left vent are just hanging and not connected to anything. the last one on the righ looks like it goes into or to the lower right of enginne?

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01068.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-15-2009, 12:51 PM
Is this wher the impeller goes?

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01069.jpg

There looks like the level of grease and water has water marks at 8" is that ok?

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01070.jpg

Therre is oil residue in here. is that normal?

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01071.jpg

This hose on left front of boat is broken. I'm going to repair and figure out a way that shoving stuff in there wont break it again...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01076.jpg

TMCNo1
08-15-2009, 12:52 PM
I see you have a V-drive, but the raw water pickup should look like this on the bottom of the boat, very similar,
50522
and inside the engine compartment the big black raw water pickup hose from the strainer (upper RH of pic) then goes to the transmission cooler on it's way to the raw water pump on the front of the engine, but your raw water pump is on the front of the engine facing rearward toward the inside of the transom,
50527

MariStar-Man
08-15-2009, 12:55 PM
I know I owe you sum goodies for all the question...lol

I guess hot water shower? is there a way to adjust water temp while in driveway?

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01072.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01073.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01075.jpg

Chicago190
08-15-2009, 01:04 PM
No you cannot connect to the yellow connection. That is for draining the exhaust manifolds if you need to winterize your engine.

I cannot see it in your picture, I believe if you look along the left side of the engine (since v-drive engines face backwards) there should be a large hose the goes from the bottom of the hull to the raw water pump on the back of the engine (well it is the front, but again your engine face backwards so it is the "back" in your case).

There are 2 vents for the engine compartment. One is for the blower, which should be used prior to starting the engine and anytime the engine is running with the boat below cruising speed. This will ventilate any fuel vapors and prevent explosions. The second vent is for air flowing through the engine compartment when the boat is underway. The disconnected hose may just be the vent for when the boat is underway. To confirm this make sure the hose on the right is connected to the engine compartment blower (turn the blower on and put your hand over the vents, you should feel air flowing out of one). If no air comes out of either vent when the blower is on then you need to order new blower hose and connect the blower to one of the vents. It is not safe to operate the boat without a properly functioning blower.

dummy
08-15-2009, 01:13 PM
Tower is a nice plus.

Don't worry 'bout the teak. The swim platform on my '00 230VRS was about the same and it came back nicely with a little work and some good teak oil. Plenty of posts on refurbishing them if you search.

The raw-water pickup is under your trailer bunk. I usually wait 'till the back of the boat starts floating a bit at the launch ramp before starting the engine just to be on the safe side. You can't use a fake-lake, but you can install a hose fitting if you really want to run the boat on the trailer.

Guide poles: There are 2 stainless bolts per side that hold 'em to the trailer mount underneath the fiberglass. Use a 1/2- or 9/16-inch wrench (can't remember). Usually the bolts come loose and they just rotate, so check before you go trying to bend them back.

Chicago190
08-15-2009, 01:15 PM
Yes, the impeller goes in that housing. It is the raw water pump.

The bilge water may be oily because some oil was spilled during an oil change. For example, it is easy to spill oil removing the filter. There is no way to know whether it is caused by accident or if you have a small oil leak. I would go out and buy some sort of bilge cleaner, I got mine on sale from Overton's for $1.99. Give the bilge a good cleaning and see if the oil comes back. Alternatively, you could monitor the oil level of the engine, v-drive unit, and transmission to make sure none are leaking. However, you'll want to clean the bilge out anyway, unless you enjoy dumping polluted water into the places you boat and swim.

Age Fighter
08-15-2009, 03:02 PM
Awww -- when I saw hot water shower pics -- I was thinking something totally different:D:D:D

McDye
08-15-2009, 03:41 PM
yep it is a hot/cold shower. The hot comes from water circulating thru the block and the cold is fresh water (so what ever water temp is the is ur cold). Adjusting temp is just home controls. There is typically another pump that basically pulls the water off the above mention connections.

dummy
08-15-2009, 04:21 PM
The easiest 2 places are in the raw water pickup hose under/near the oil filter or right near the pickup in the floor.

I installed a raw water strainer near the oil filter location since it had the most room. My local Mastercraft dealership put an in-line garden hose fitting about 18-inches or so upstream from the hull pickup point. To get to it I just remove my center seat cushion and pull the fiberglass bin out and there it is.

If you've got a West Marine nearby they'll have the garden hose fitting. Just check the diameter of your raw water hose before you go. Should say right on the hose in blue or white lettering. I've got the LTR engine like yours. I think it's 1.25-inch, but I did it last year and my memory is fuzzy.

McFire
08-15-2009, 04:44 PM
I made my own version of a "fake a lake" with a plunger and a clamped on connection that attaches to my garden hose. It has worked for me for the last 2 or 3 years without problem. Cost me about $5.00 total. It is a quick, cheap alternative.

Kell
08-15-2009, 05:08 PM
Got the same 210 VRS as you. Under the center rear seat, remove the fiberglass bin, and if you look to the the left side of the v-drive you'll see a black hose with blue strip that connects to the thru hull. The hose is held on by two hose clamps. I just losen those up, the black hose off and stick the garden hose down the black hose about 18", turn the water source on and fire the engine up. Very simple IMHO.

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 12:49 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01083.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01085.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01084.jpg

I first used Wet Sand 600 grit. All of the sanding was done by hand. I started at a higher grit because i wanted to keep the Craftman's Filings, and grindings visible. Then 1000 wet sand, 2000 and then used >>>Happich Semi Chrome Polish Here<<< (http://www.simichrome-polish.com/) Three hours later Waahh-Laahh... Peace!

PS I didn't want to make it too shiny because, I didn't want the Lake Fish to think it was a Giant Lure!... :rolleyes:

X-5 Driver
08-16-2009, 01:08 AM
Wow, those are gorgeous. :cool:

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 01:10 AM
Kell-->Thanks for the picture, and I see know where the water pick up is. I will hook it up tomorrow to get the oil hot enough to change.

Mcfire-->That plunger is a terriffic idea! that's an easy alternative as well. i thought you guys used Axe's and not plungers...:confused:

(Not so) Dummy-->I guess I could get a T-Valve as weel like one of those flushing kits and make one pretty cheap. thanks for the info. I like the garden hose idea so the wife can do it...i can tell her to go Gardening in the boat...lol

Chicago190--> I didn't realize it could BLOW! I'm glad you chimed in. the old owner just told me to start the engine with the cover open. Is that a good idea? i wrote it down to check the blower. My 3 left hoses go don about 2 feet and then END. the one on the right is the only one that looks connected... I'll ceck it out tomorrow...

Chicago190
08-16-2009, 01:25 AM
Kell-->Thanks for the picture, and I see know where the water pick up is. I will hook it up tomorrow to get the oil hot enough to change.

Mcfire-->That plunger is a terriffic idea! that's an easy alternative as well. i thought you guys used Axe's and not plungers...:confused:

(Not so) Dummy-->I guess I could get a T-Valve as weel like one of those flushing kits and make one pretty cheap. thanks for the info. I like the garden hose idea so the wife can do it...i can tell her to go Gardening in the boat...lol

Chicago190--> I didn't realize it could BLOW! I'm glad you chimed in. the old owner just told me to start the engine with the cover open. Is that a good idea? i wrote it down to check the blower. My 3 left hoses go don about 2 feet and then END. the one on the right is the only one that looks connected... I'll ceck it out tomorrow...

There is nothing wrong with starting the engine with the cover open, but it will not help you with fuel vapors building up when the boat is idling or you are going through no-wake zones. A bad blower is easy to diagnose, just flip the switch on the dash and if you here a humming noise then your blower is turning on. As long as it turns on just ensure air is blowing out of one of the rear vents. If it doesn't turn on then you may have a problem with the blower, wiring, or switch - but these are all relatively easy problems to diagnose and repair for mechanically enclined individuals.

Kell
08-16-2009, 01:45 AM
I concur with Chicago190, you don't want to take the chance with gas vapors,. Run the blower for at least 4 minutes. I don't open the hatch, but I always run the blower for at least 4 minutes and when idleing around. If your bloswer is bad, they are easy to replace and very inexpensive. The left 3 hoses don't connect to anything and I beleive they are there to allow air flow when under way. There are two vent openings in front of the windowshield, one on the drivers side and one on the observers seat, that vent to the front of the motor box and then exit out of the three vents that do not connect to anything (there should be a short section of vent tubing hanging down to the bottom of the boat behind the silent muffler, which will pick up and discharge the air coming from the windshield vents. The far right vent should connect directly to the blower which is right underneth the alternator on the port side of the engine.

Kell
08-16-2009, 01:59 AM
How about the strut! Just kdding, that looks awesome. Nice work. I may have to give that a try as well.

D3skier
08-16-2009, 02:32 AM
you forgot to sand and polish the prop nut...8p8p just kidding

looks sharp... nice job

coz
08-16-2009, 09:16 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01083.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01085.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01084.jpg

I first used Wet Sand 600 grit. All of the sanding was done by hand. I started at a higher grit because i wanted to keep the Craftman's Filings, and grindings visible. Then 1000 wet sand, 2000 and then used >>>Happich Semi Chrome Polish Here<<< (http://www.simichrome-polish.com/) Three hours later Waahh-Laahh... Peace!

PS I didn't want to make it too shiny because, I didn't want the Lake Fish to think it was a Giant Lure!...

One of the board members told me there was a new guy here with a pic as big as mine.........nice pic dude, but watch out.........there's alot of people with small pic syndrome here and they get offended easly :D

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 11:16 AM
Coz--->Those are small pics to me.:D It's not the size of the prop that makes a man... hahah:o

D3skier-->I'm thinking about sum Chrome Nuts... :D

Kell-->I think the STRUT is either the Stainless shaft, which I did get but not much, or the brassy colored thing holding the strut? I thought Strutinwasn't Kool anymore...lol

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 11:16 AM
Wow, those are gorgeous. :cool:


My Girl tells me the same thing...Doh!

X-5 Driver
08-16-2009, 11:18 AM
Ba doom, shhhhhhhh. Maristar-Man, ladies and gentleman. He'll be here all week. Check out the 10 O'Clock show, it gets a little racier. :D

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 11:56 AM
There are two vent openings in front of the windowshield, one on the drivers side and one on the observers seat, that vent to the front of the motor box and then exit out of the three vents that do not connect to anything .


U mean this thing that's been broken for who knows how long...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01076.jpg


I'm fixing it today

thx for the valuble info! :twocents:

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 12:00 PM
yep it is a hot/cold shower. The hot comes from water circulating thru the block and the cold is fresh water (so what ever water temp is the is ur cold). Adjusting temp is just home controls. There is typically another pump that basically pulls the water off the above mention connections.

I didn't see the hot water info in the manual. Is there a fresh water tank or just thru the Raw Water pickup under the boat? I found the pump and it looks like it's connected to ACC 1. the wires they ran are hanging down all over the place and i have to tie em into the wiring harness.

looks like it was installed after boat was purchased?

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 12:06 PM
Yes, the impeller goes in that housing. It is the raw water pump.

thanks for the help. i bought an impeller from a MC Dealer here and they charged me $48.00 Then the guy say's to me, "Buying the boat was the cheap part...hahah"

I laughed it up too...lol:D

Cloaked
08-16-2009, 12:16 PM
thanks for the help. i bought an impeller from a MC Dealer here and they charged me $48.00 Then the guy say's to me, "Buying the boat was the cheap part...hahah"

I laughed it up too...lol:D
So you overlooked or ignored skidim.com? ;)

$48 is highway robbery but the source is consistent. I would even suspect that your (now old) impeller wasn't damaged.

Unless these things are crumbled beyond use, they will function as required. I rarely have had to replace an impeller in the 30 years of fooling with these boats.

Out of curiosity, what made you think it needed replacing?

coz
08-16-2009, 12:17 PM
thanks for the help. i bought an impeller from a MC Dealer here and they charged me $48.00 Then the guy say's to me, "Buying the boat was the cheap part...hahah"

I laughed it up too...lol:D

You won't pay dealer mark up if ya get your parts here http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1096 $32 is about the going rate for an impeller

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 12:21 PM
www.skiboatcovers.com is the bestThanks for the link! Do i get a discount if i mention your name?:confused:


Most RV's have a 7 round terminal and need a 7-round to 5-flat adapter. Mine has a 4 -plug round, about 3/4 in diameter. It made by Cole-Hersee. I'll contact them but your right i may have to have it rewired to get the REVERSE Signal



I see you have a V-drive, but the raw water pickup should look like this on the bottom of the boat, very similar,
50522
Thanks for all the info and a great site! Is that your engine or a Clean Room? Nice work. i'll search to see what your boat looks like...


Tower is a nice plus. Don't worry 'bout the teak.
The raw-water pickup is under your trailer bunk.
Guide poles: There are 2 stainless bolts per side that hold 'em to the trailer mount underneath the fiberglass.

i'm going out to adjust em now. I found the Water pickup peeking out from under the bunk. I did notice rust color on the bunk...?

The Tower is an X Series Tower but the bimini top won't open all the way. i was hoping to use the material i have and find an inexpsensive way to install it?

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 12:29 PM
So you overlooked or ignored skidim.com? ;)

Out of curiosity, what made you think it needed replacing?

No sir I'm going toSkidm, tonight to get a whole bunch of stuff. I did start the motor for about 5 seconds and heard wierd noise. Kindof a squeal somewhat high pitched. Plus the deferred maintenance. I'm going to peak in there today and see how the old impeller looks.

if it looks fine, I'm going to have the new impeller mounted, and my wife can wear her new ring...8p

bigmac
08-16-2009, 12:32 PM
So you overlooked or ignored skidim.com? ;)

$48 is highway robbery but the source is consistent. I would even suspect that your (now old) impeller wasn't damaged.

Unless these things are crumbled beyond use, they will function as required. I rarely have had to replace an impeller in the 30 years of fooling with these boats.

Out of curiosity, what made you think it needed replacing?

Indmar recommends pre-emptive replacement every two years or so. Even so, I agree with you and I haven't replaced mine in three years. Now, my situation is a little different in that my boat is never on the water more than about a 30 minute tow back to my dock, and everyone that EVER drives that boat (all four of us :)) is highly tuned into watching the temp gauge.

I do disagree about being functional until "crumbled beyond use". I think you can tear a vane or two and the result will be some temp variation - which is a very important warning sign - and far better than intentionally waiting for a big-time overheat. If my boat EVER varies by more than +/- 5 degrees from 160, it means I either have a little weed ball in the transmission cooler or a bad impeller. Having said all of that, I replace impellers when there is an apparent need, not as a matter of maintenance. If it were easier to do on my V-drive, I might, since it's only $35, but it's not easy and I don't.

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 12:33 PM
get your parts here

I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers

coz
08-16-2009, 12:40 PM
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers


Remember, you can get alot of parts from NAPA too :cool:

bigmac
08-16-2009, 12:42 PM
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers


Don't get hung up on "marine oil" - there really is no such thing. The oil that's recommended for your engine is 15W40 with API specs CI-4/SJ. That is more typically labeled as a "diesel" oil.

The "suction device" isn't just for the tranny - it's for removing the engine oil too. Get a fitting so that you can hook your suction device up to your engine oil drain hose. Warm it up, hook it up, and suck it up. DO NOT put the suction pump's tube down the dip stick hole - connect it to your oil pan drain hose. Here's the fitting for that...put the barbed end in your suction pump's hose and screw the other end onto the drain hose. It's a 1/4 inch NPT barbed fitting and will cost about $2 at your hardware store.

http://airinc.thomasnet.com/ImgMedium/221.jpg

Cloaked
08-16-2009, 12:50 PM
I do disagree about being functional until "crumbled beyond use". I think you can tear a vane or two and the result will be some temp variation - which is a very important warning sign - and far better than intentionally waiting for a big-time overheat. .....Agreed. It was a figure of speech. I mispoke in a detailed manner.

bigmac
08-16-2009, 12:51 PM
I didn't see the hot water info in the manual. Is there a fresh water tank or just thru the Raw Water pickup under the boat? I found the pump and it looks like it's connected to ACC 1. the wires they ran are hanging down all over the place and i have to tie em into the wiring harness.

looks like it was installed after boat was purchased?

No doubt.

Hot water source is usually one of the engine block drain plugs, cold water is usually from the raw water intake.

Looks like a HeaterCraft 100S shower (http://www.heatercraft.com/category.aspx?categoryID=17). Their install manual is here (http://www.heatercraft.com/images/Documents/Showerinstallation.PDF).

SkiDog
08-16-2009, 12:56 PM
Thats a good job, now get ready to do that about every 3rd time you use the boat. Too bad it won't stay that way!

dummy
08-16-2009, 01:37 PM
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers

You don't have a cap and rotor. Your ignition is a distributorless setup that uses 2 crank position sensors located on the harmonic balancer that signals an ignition control module to fire 8 individual coil packs located on the right side of the engine (same side as oil filter). Your engine uses Chevy Vortec heads which were used in '96-'99 Chevy pickups and SUVs. Just read the number on one of your plugs and you'll be able to pick up replacements at your local auto parts store for probably a little less than through a marine place.

No need for marine oil, really. Just use 15W-40 diesel oil and a good Wix or NAPA Gold filter. Here's a quick oil change write up I did: http://garagemonkey.net/garage-monkey-photo-galleries/Marine-Oil-Change-gallery.html Your camshaft is a hydraulic roller, so there's no brutal flat-tappet lifter contact to worry about anyway.

Also, make sure you note which way the impeller blades are twisted before you take out the old one when you replace it. You'll need to spin the new impeller in to clock the vanes in the same direction or it can fragment.

You got a squeal? Check your serpentine belt and see if you've got an idler pulley in there. I can't remember based off mine if the LTR uses one or not. If the boat got wet in there and sat the idler pulley bearing can seize and cause a squeal. Just one more thing to check for.

I also seem to recall reading on this site about an alternator bracket recall, so if yours is broken and your alternator is cocked that could cause some squealing.

FrankSchwab
08-16-2009, 01:52 PM
You have the same trailer tongue as I do. You probably do not have a solenoid to allow backing up. The Previous Owner, by sticking a nickel in where he did, disabled the trailer brakes completely. I would recommend removing it.

Check out page 10 of the UFP Maintenance manual. (http://ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/A-60,%2075%20_%2084%20Actuator%20Maintenance.pdf) What you need is the "Brake Lockout Bracket", shown in figure 8. Not quite sure where to source one; attaching something to the nickel so you could easily remove it after backing up may be your best (and cheapest) bet.

/frank

JimN
08-16-2009, 02:04 PM
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers

Your plugs are AC MR43LTS. As Dummy posted, no cap and rotor. If you want to have better oil filtering, use the large can AC PH-1812 or equivalent, but avoid Fram. Wix supposedly makes AC filters now (according to the NAPA store I went to), NAPA filters are good, too. Really, as long as you don't overheat it (this means make sure the impeller is good and the oil cooler isn't clogged) and the oil/filter is changed regularly, you won't have a problem. Get in the habit of checking the oil cooler often because that being clogged is the one thing that can cook your impeller and motor before you know you have a problem.

Also, DO NOT run it on the trailer or out of water unless you have some way of supplying cooling water and if you do this, don't put it in gear for any length of time, either. I'm not a fan of Fake A Lake, period. Nothing will make me use one, either. As long as you don't rev it up, you can buy a section of 1-1/4" hose and a couple of hose clamps, so you can attach it to the inlet side of the oil cooler. If you put a shutoff valve on it, you won't have to get out of the boat to shut the water off.

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 02:10 PM
It's a good thing to become intimate with your motor...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01090.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01088.jpg

I'm going to try to dremmel the first 2 threads, until i can order one... This part is located at the rear of the boat motor at the end of the steering rod that has the grease in it. this fitting seals the steering rod assy.

Oh! also one of my MOTOR MOUNT bolts was lying on the floor:eek:

My new moto is, "Chek em or Wreck em..."

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 02:28 PM
i checked manual and searched but didn't find it...Anyone know where i can find it or what they are?


thxxxx

Cloaked
08-16-2009, 02:53 PM
i checked manual and searched but didn't find it...Anyone know where i can find it or what they are?


thxxxxSnug tight and a tiny Ummmph to boot. Don't wrench down on it like it's a wheel lug-nut. :D

I know this did not answer your question but it's the only torque spec that I know for a plug, but I am sure it does exist. What I feel for more than anyting is that I have not cross-threaded the threads as it goes into the head. I also use a tiny bit of Never-Seez.

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 03:40 PM
i just purchased a 1999 Maristar and after topping off all fluids, and putting garden hose into Raw Water line, I started the engine. Everything sounded fine. responsive...

Then I engaged the transmission and I hear a metallic knocking and high pitch squealing. I imediately turn off and know I'm going to search to see If my tranny if toast...

Doesn't look like I'll be serving tea on time....:rolleyes:

TMCNo1
08-16-2009, 03:47 PM
i just purchased a 1999 Maristar and after topping off all fluids, and putting garden hose into Raw Water line, I started the engine. Everything sounded fine. responsive...

Then I engaged the transmission and I hear a metallic knocking and high pitch squealing. I imediately turn off and know I'm going to search to see If my tranny if toast...

Doesn't look like I'll be serving tea on time....:rolleyes:



You've already been told once, DO NOT run the boat in gear out of the water. The strut and stuffing box/shaft log have no water to lubricate it and if you keep it up and not pay attention to questions and answers you've got, your asking for problems.:(

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 04:14 PM
ok, i will make that a point not to do.lol

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 04:26 PM
but would the sounds be coming from the front of the transmission? i didn't really hear anything over that knocking.

MariStar-Man
08-16-2009, 04:49 PM
Snug tight and a tiny Ummmph to boot. Don't wrench down on it like it's a wheel lug-nut. :D

I know this did not answer your question but it's the only torque spec that I know for a plug, but I am sure it does exist. What I feel for more than anyting is that I have not cross-threaded the threads as it goes into the head. I also use a tiny bit of Never-Seez.

that sounds good thanks!

JimN
08-16-2009, 04:53 PM
i checked manual and searched but didn't find it...Anyone know where i can find it or what they are?


thxxxx

Look in the thread where you were looking for parts- AC MR43LTS

Most auto parts stores can get them but some don't want to order what they don't normally stock. NAPA, O'Reilly/Checker and Quest can get them. Use a little anti-seize when you install the plugs, regardless of which you use.

ROB
08-16-2009, 06:32 PM
About 15 - 20 ft. lb

ROB
08-16-2009, 08:06 PM
How fast did you get her on plane in the driveway? :uglyhamme

Jerseydave
08-16-2009, 08:53 PM
If the engine sounds fine, drop it in the water and take it for a spin. Have a buddy follow you in another boat in needed, just in case you need a tow back.

Metallic knocking???? Better check the prop nut and make sure it's tight. The squeel is most likely the strut bushing being dry like No1 said.

JohnE
08-16-2009, 09:31 PM
One of the board members told me there was a new guy here with a pic as big as mine.........nice pic dude, but watch out.........there's alot of people with small pic syndrome here and they get offended easly :D

There's also a handyman grandpa here who puts about 10 hours a year on his boat and about 100 hours a year on his camera trying to look cool.;)

macattack
08-16-2009, 09:43 PM
Works great! Picked up the parts at my local ACE hardware store...

coz
08-16-2009, 09:44 PM
There's also a handyman grandpa here who puts about 10 hours a year on his boat and about 100 hours a year on his camera trying to look cool.;)

First of all sparky, I'm a General Contractor not a handyman, second I put more time on the water in my boat than you ever will I assure you that mister poster........all you do is sit here day in and day out posting BS like your last one :rolleyes:

Chicago190
08-16-2009, 10:06 PM
Also, make sure you note which way the impeller blades are twisted before you take out the old one when you replace it. You'll need to spin the new impeller in to clock the vanes in the same direction or it can fragment.

I disagree with this. As soon as the engine turns the vanes will orient themselves in the correct direction.

JohnE
08-16-2009, 10:09 PM
First of all sparky, I'm a General Contractor not a handyman, second I put more time on the water in my boat than you ever will I assure you that mister poster........all you do is sit here day in and day out posting BS like your last one :rolleyes:

If we're getting into it, I'm an electrical engineer, master electricain, licensed builder, and certified building and electrical inspector. And with the 158 hours you had this winter on your trusty ole 205, I've more than doubled that in the past 3 seasons. You've put maybe 30 hours a year on. http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=583980&postcount=8 None of which matters. What does matter is that I can kick your arse and drink you under the table in whichever order you prefer.:D Obligatory smileys inserted.;)

TMCNo1
08-16-2009, 10:16 PM
There's also a handyman grandpa here who puts about 10 hours a year on his boat and about 100 hours a year on his camera trying to look cool.;)


Man, am I disappointed, I thought you were talking about me!:rolleyes:

I was getting prepared to post a reply that would wind you up, then ya'll go a spoil it for me!

JohnE
08-16-2009, 10:21 PM
Man, am I disappointed, I thought you were talking about me!:rolleyes:


Don't get me started on you.......:D:D

coz
08-16-2009, 10:23 PM
What does matter is that I can kick your arse and drink you under the table in whichever order you prefer.:D Obligatory smileys inserted.;)

Let me ad funny and big internet tough guy to my post because that's funny as all he!!.

JohnE
08-16-2009, 10:28 PM
Let me ad funny and big internet tough guy to my post because that's funny as all he!!.

Meant to be funny. Don't get me wrong............. I flat out don't like you or your posts, but I'm not a cyber warrior. Just trying to lower my posts to the bar that you set.

FWIW, I won't degrade TT with any more of this conversation.

Hoosier Bob
08-16-2009, 10:31 PM
Doesn't everyone on here polish their prop and rudder once? Once! Send us a picture in a couple of weeks!:D

You can make it last a bit longer with an occasional squirt of Kaboom or a similar product. Then a light polish will be all you need. I did mine a few years back and that is all I have to say about that. Other than Harold most of our gear is green!;)

TMCNo1
08-16-2009, 10:38 PM
Doesn't everyone on here polish their prop and rudder once? Once! Send us a picture in a couple of weeks!:D

You can make it last a bit longer with an occasional squirt of Kaboom or a similar product. Then a light polish will be all you need. I did mine a few years back and that is all I have to say about that. Other than Harold most of our gear is green!;)


If everyone's is green, then your contributing to lowering your carbon footprint on the water, by going green, right?

coz
08-16-2009, 10:53 PM
Don't get me wrong............. I flat out don't like you or your posts, .

I didn't come here to please you so I don't give a darn what you think....so you do your thing and I'll do mine and we'll leave it at that.....deal?

JohnE
08-16-2009, 10:56 PM
I didn't come here to please you so I don't give a darn what you think....so you do your thing and I'll do mine and we'll leave it at that.....deal?

Deal.........

TMCNo1
08-16-2009, 11:02 PM
Deal.........

That's what I said too, when Lynn asked if she could polish my rudder!:rolleyes::D

JohnE
08-16-2009, 11:05 PM
That's what I said too, when Lynn asked if she could polish my rudder!:rolleyes::D


You Tee'd it up but I just can't..........:D

coz
08-16-2009, 11:06 PM
That's what I said too, when Lynn asked if she could polish my rudder!:rolleyes::D

Is that because it's so bent & rusty :eek:

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 12:55 AM
Don't get hung up on "marine oil" - there really is no such thing. The oil that's recommended for your engine is 15W40 with API specs CI-4/SJ. http://airinc.thomasnet.com/ImgMedium/221.jpg
That's a great idea. That little bras fitting is terrifico! :D




Your ignition is a distributorless setup that uses 2 crank position sensors located So should i replace the sensors or wait till they go out?

No need for marine oil, really. Just use 15W-40 diesel oil and a good Wix or NAPA Gold filter. Here's a quick oil change write up I did: http://garagemonkey.net/garage-monkey-photo-galleries/Marine-Oil-Change-gallery.html Your camshaft is a hydraulic roller, so there's no brutal flat-tappet lifter contact to worry about anyway.

Also, make sure you note which way the impeller blades are twisted before you take out the old one when you replace it. You'll need to spin the new impeller in to clock the vanes in the same direction or it can fragment.You should definately write a repair manual! Great Tip!

You got a squeal? Check your serpentine belt and see if you've got an idler pulley in there. I can't remember based off mine if the LTR uses one or not. If the boat got wet in there and sat the idler pulley bearing can seize and cause a squeal. Just one more thing to check for.

I also seem to recall reading on this site about an alternator bracket recall, so if yours is broken and your alternator is cocked that could cause some squealing.i'll do a search for recals...I can't take the boat out till I know everything about it. plus, I like doing the work myself...I know it done...lol

mtajpa
08-17-2009, 01:00 AM
My 99 Maristar 230 makes a knocking noise when you put it in gear but it goes away at about 1100 rpm. I've had it about 9 months now and have had no problem. But it needs to be in the water to test!

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:02 AM
Your plugs are AC MR43LTS. As Dummy posted, no cap and rotor. If you want to have better oil filtering, use the large can AC PH-1812 or equivalent, but avoid Fram. Wix supposedly makes AC filters now (according to the NAPA store I went to), NAPA filters are good, too. Really, as long as you don't overheat it (this means make sure the impeller is good and the oil cooler isn't clogged) and the oil/filter is changed regularly, you won't have a problem. Get in the habit of checking the oil cooler often because that being clogged is the one thing that can cook your impeller and motor before you know you have a problem. I have to find the oil cooler still. While I was in there I saw the raw water pickup hose and it went to the impeller and then out, but i didn't see the MESH that blocks debris from getting into the pipes. My Raw water pickup has slats about 1/8th inch apart...?

Also, DO NOT run it on the trailer or out of water unless you have some way of supplying cooling water and if you do this, don't put it in gear for any length of time, either. I'm not a fan of Fake A Lake, period. Nothing will make me use one, either. As long as you don't rev it up, you can buy a section of 1-1/4" hose and a couple of hose clamps, so you can attach it to the inlet side of the oil cooler. First i disconnected the 1 1/4 inch hose from my raw water pickup, then I attached my garden hose with some ducttape. (This was temporary till make a shut-off valve and hose as pictured. I warmed up the enginge and changed the oil. If you put a shutoff valve on it, you won't have to get out of the boat to shut the water off.

I really like the idea of the hose and shutoff valve...

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:03 AM
Works great! Picked up the parts at my local ACE hardware store...

Nice hose!!! lol

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:07 AM
don't put it in gear for any length of time, either.

i did put it in gear just to see if the transmission worked and got a metallic banging sound. i quickly turned it off. I will try it on a lake soon to see if it still makes the MC hammer sound...:cool:

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:09 AM
How fast did you get her on plane in the driveway?

:eek3: i'm a Newb what can i say... :D Damn tranny comes from Italy, and I don';t have any frequent flyer miles left...

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:12 AM
If the engine sounds fine, drop it in the water and take it for a spin. Have a buddy follow you in another boat in needed, just in case you need a tow back.

Metallic knocking???? Better check the prop nut and make sure it's tight. The squeel is most likely the strut bushing being dry like No1 said.

I checked the nut, it tight. the sound was hopefully coming from the fact that there was no pressure on the prop like it would be in water. I'm almost ready to take her out. I need to wire up the Motorhome so the reverse signal goes to trailer.

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:33 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01094.jpg

The previous owner said I should always use the rope to tie the boat don, but the boat is not far forward enough? He also delivered the boat without any rear straps. I bought some today but what do i do know...lol

(I thought i would ask first before i drop the boat or something...)

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:35 AM
Also found this with the nut hanging freely on the rod!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01097.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01090.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01088.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:36 AM
so I used my Dremmel and removed 2 threads... "Shhh I'm busy right now...lol"
Got it---->

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01091.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01092.jpg

All fixed and it looks like this:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01100.jpg

Yes that nut on the bottom was used replacing the rod to the rudder...

JimN
08-17-2009, 01:37 AM
You should put it on the trailer far enough to engage the Boat Buddy (the gray plastic covered part with the steel pin that's supposed to go through the bow eye and snap closed. Trailering straps are cheap but you should use them at the stern, too.

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:41 AM
looks like this...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01093.jpg

i still need to make a cable for it, instead of the wire tie

Yep, I'll be removing the Nickle and tape soon...

Also, I checked the master cylinder and topped it off with some dot 4. it was about a pint low! DOH!

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:45 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01095.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01096.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:47 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/DSC01079.jpg

Since the previous owner installed and X SERIES Tower, My stock bimini top wont open. :( Is there a way to redisign, without calling Johnson over to stick there hand into my shallow pockets...

My girl, always in front of the camera...hahah

bturner2
08-17-2009, 07:34 AM
If you were a pint low a I would think about going through your brakes. If you have drums one or both of the cylinders could be leaking. If you have disc then the pads are probably worn. Either way I'd want to know where that fluid went.

Depending on how old the trailer is I'd probably recommend flushing the old brake fluid out and bleeding the brakes at the same time.

Trailers are the most over looked area of boating until your stuck on the side of the road.

Dave2302
08-17-2009, 07:43 AM
Ridiculous !!!!

The block drain (red hose), is not large enough for good flow nor is it the hottest water source. The hottest source is on the intake manifold just where the water passage comes out of the head, and there should be a bung, as its where the car heaters are plumbed.

The return (blue hose), should go into the circulating pump (not the raw water pump), for the best pumping and again there should be a blanking plug as the car heaters are returned here.

These are always the locations that we plumb the LPG vapourisers over here which gives a good supply of hot water. If your boat does a lot of running below 1500 rpm you can also fit a smaller pulley and shorter belt to the circulating pump to speed up circulation.

The bungs can sometimes be difficult to remove especially on old engines or those run in salt water, but usually a little heat will get them out, then a couple of 5/8" hose barbs with bsp threads can be screwed in and Robert is your mothers brother !!

HTH Dave.

jimmer2880
08-17-2009, 08:59 AM
That's where Heatercraft says to plumb. For mine, I plumbed at the intake (It's a T with my Heater). For Cold, I followed Heatercraft's example and T'd into my raw water intake as shown. in the OP's pic.

I have excellent flow and couldn't imagine needing more. The hot is very hot. So much so, that I only have the Hot knob about 1/2 and Cold Full.

jimmer2880
08-17-2009, 09:02 AM
Your bimini tubes should separate in the middle. You should then, be able to cut them down to fit between your tower uprights. Then, you would need to take the fabric to someone to have it cut down as well.

I don't know of anyone who has actually done this, but it should work.

Maristar210
08-17-2009, 09:15 AM
There. Now there's another person to add to the list.

Coz you see a pattern with growing number ofthose who don't care for you in here?

:D

coz
08-17-2009, 09:43 AM
There. Now there's another person to add to the list.

Coz you see a pattern with growing number ofthose who don't care for you in here?

:D

Dude! W T F? I don't give a damn what you think or do! hurry up and ad me to your list.

kev88
08-17-2009, 09:46 AM
You have to admit - all this '"friendly banter" keeps us coming back.:D

Chicago190
08-17-2009, 09:53 AM
You might be able to crank the winch hard enough to slide the boat forward, but I doubt it with the hull and bunks dry.

dpolen
08-17-2009, 09:56 AM
Is there any way you could attach it to the outside of the tower, maybe on the front legs or the side support? I know I have a different tower, but this installation has worked really well for me. I got the tower mounts for the bimini for about $20 at diywake.com

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/dpolen/Mastercraft/IMG_5220.jpg

Another thought after looking at your picture some more, I bet if you move that bimini support base forward about 18", you could simply let the bimini rest in front of the tower, still keeping everything kosher for boarding while the tower is up. That's probably your cheapest option. Might have to add/reposition the hooks for the nylon straps too. Good luck!

scott023
08-17-2009, 10:22 AM
I don't some here as often as I used to, but it seems that everytime I am here Coz is fighting with someone. Has he been voted head DB of TT?

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 10:23 AM
I was thinking about going to Uhaul to wire my MH, but then thought, "Why, with all the smart people on the board"

So I have this on the MH

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/wiring/DSC01106.jpg

It's a COLE HERSEE plug, but with just 4 round.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/wiring/DSC01110.jpg

And i used to use this on my Zodiac Trailer:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/wiring/DSC01114.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/wiring/DSC01116.jpg


So, my girl friend has an Escolade and she has both the 4 flat as shown above and a large, like 1 1/2" Round either 6 or 7 pin plug.

Should I wire a 6 or 7 pin round to the Motorhome, or a Flat (4 male 1 Female) like what we have on our trailers?

ttu
08-17-2009, 10:28 AM
I don't some here as often as I used to, but it seems that everytime I am here Coz is fighting with someone. Has he been voted head DB of TT?


i thought he already won that hands down!!!:rolleyes:

bigmac
08-17-2009, 10:30 AM
Sometimes this place puts me in mind of a bunch of teenagers in high school. Maybe younger.

jdl xstar
08-17-2009, 10:30 AM
You might be able to crank the winch hard enough to slide the boat forward, but I doubt it with the hull and bunks dry.

Proceed with caution using the winch on dry bunks. I cranked it "dry" like this and snapped off some teeth on the crank and had to replace.

JohnE
08-17-2009, 10:31 AM
Sometimes this place puts me in mind of a bunch of teenagers in high school. Maybe younger.

This place does bring out the best in us some days.:D I'd agree, much younger. More like first graders.:o

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 10:32 AM
Did my little Shiny PROP, cause all of this? Fine! I'll let it turn Green...haha, I like the Back anf forth. it makes me feel like I'm at home on Thanksgiving...:smile:

scott023
08-17-2009, 10:34 AM
Sometimes this place puts me in mind of a bunch of teenagers in high school. Maybe younger.

It's a good release Mac... you shold try it sometime. We can't all be mature 100% of the time like you. :D

JohnE
08-17-2009, 10:35 AM
Steep downhill and slam the brakes??

JK, I'd just make sure to engage the boat buddy next time.

bturner2
08-17-2009, 10:36 AM
If you have (or plan to have) a reverse lock out you'll need a flat 5 on both sides. The fifth wire will go to the back up lights on the MH.

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 10:38 AM
You should put it on the trailer far enough to engage the Boat Buddy
I'm wondering why he used the rope and didn't pull it far enough forward. it seems like a really simple thing to do and not forget about?




Proceed with caution using the winch on dry bunks. I cranked it "dry" like this and snapped off some teeth on the crank and had to replace.Yep, anything with the word DRY makes me a little Chaffe! :confused::D haha

JohnE
08-17-2009, 10:38 AM
Did my little Shiny PROP, cause all of this? Fine! I'll let it turn Green...haha, I like the Back anf forth. it makes me feel like I'm at home on Thanksgiving...:smile:

Nah, you didn't start it. It just happened on your thread. It would have happened eventually somewhere else.

Nice job BTW.

scott023
08-17-2009, 10:39 AM
Nah, you didn't start it. It just happened on your thread. It would have happened eventually somewhere else.

Nice job BTW.

Yah, looks great. It take me too much time just to clean my boat after each outing to even consider doing that. :D

Hollywood
08-17-2009, 10:43 AM
For a SHOWER, the cold should be tapped after the RWP. Else, your engine is competing with the shower for water.

For a HEATER that would be OK the way it is plumbed, maybe not the best but ok.

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 10:47 AM
. I got the tower mounts for the bimini for about $20 at diywake.com

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa294/dpolen/Mastercraft/IMG_5220.jpg

I bet if you move that bimini support base forward about 18", you could simply let the bimini rest in front of the tower, Good luck!

Wow, that's a great install and idea! That is the kind of engineering that I like to see. Those pics of your Maristar are great. The Polo Green is really nice.

I will take a look and see what i can do. Are you able to use the bimini top oopen while your underway?

JohnE
08-17-2009, 10:49 AM
Yah, looks great. It take me too much time just to clean my boat after each outing to even consider doing that. :D


Agreed. I spent time yesterday and Saturday spiffing mine up from a week at the lake. I only took care of the worst of it, still need to do some fine detailing.

shepherd
08-17-2009, 10:51 AM
Yah, looks great. It take me too much time just to clean my boat after each outing to even consider doing that. :D

You clean your boat after each outing? :worthy:

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 10:53 AM
oops double post

dpolen
08-17-2009, 10:58 AM
Are you able to use the bimini top oopen while your underway?

Yeah, we use ours all the time, run wide open around the lake with no issues. I don't have any pics of the boat with the bimini all opened up, but can try to do that when we are at the lake next time. Let me know if you have any questions.

Nice boat, I'm envious of your tower, really like the looks on your boat. I took the cheapo route, but still happy with mine.

coz
08-17-2009, 11:03 AM
oops double post

If you're handy you can make it work, I used my existing top with a hole for the pylon when I put a tower on my boat http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25912&highlight=todays+project

scott023
08-17-2009, 11:05 AM
You clean your boat after each outing? :worthy:

Have to. The water here is pretty hard, so it shows prety badly on the red fire flake. Chamois the whole thing each time. :eek3:

bigmac
08-17-2009, 11:36 AM
It's a good release Mac... you shold try it sometime. We can't all be mature 100% of the time like you. :D

Yeh, next time you guys come out of left field to pile on Coz, I'm gonna try it too. That "release" must really be something. There must be something about the joy of immaturity that I'm not seeing anymore.

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 11:41 AM
[QUOTE=coz;624310]If you're handy you can make it work, I used my existing top with a hole for the pylon when I put a tower on my boat [QUOTE]

Wow! that's a nice job as well, As good as your neighbor did, I would have him/her design clothes for the rest of the family...8p

Was just curious...Is there a particular height one would want their top? Also, your lokks like it's flatter than my stock Maristar Bimini. I will have to open her up later and see

thanks for the info

Thrall
08-17-2009, 11:42 AM
[QUOTE=MariStar-Man;624245]Also found this with the nut hanging freely on the rod!

I prefer nuts hanging freely BELOW the rod!:D

Asuming your boat is on a proper MC trailer, the rope deal is extremely ignorant.
Get her to a lauch and get the boat pulled up a couple more inches. The pin on the boat buddy is supposed to go thru the bow eye (not insulting you if you already knew that).

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 11:45 AM
Ridiculous !!!!
The block drain (red hose), is not large enough for good flow
Robert is your mothers brother !!HTH Dave.

i thought it was, "Bob's your Uncle..." lol that's way too tecchnical for me right now. I will come back to it. I'm still trying to figure out when I would need to shower and if people on my boat should be required to remove bikini's while showering...:cool:

coz
08-17-2009, 11:55 AM
[QUOTE=coz;624310]If you're handy you can make it work, I used my existing top with a hole for the pylon when I put a tower on my boat [QUOTE]

Wow! that's a nice job as well, As good as your neighbor did, I would have him/her design clothes for the rest of the family...8p

Was just curious...Is there a particular height one would want their top? Also, your lokks like it's flatter than my stock Maristar Bimini. I will have to open her up later and see

thanks for the info

Thanks MM

Before and after.

http://www.mastercraft.com/photopost/data/500/P4280020-1.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm258/cozaz/060-2.jpg

Dave2302
08-17-2009, 11:56 AM
and if people on my boat should be required to remove bikini's while showering...:cool:

Only the fit ladies, the fellas should keep their bikinis ON :D

Dave2302
08-17-2009, 11:59 AM
That's where Heatercraft says to plumb

Thats as maybe and is easier to do, but it still is far from ideal;)

h20winn
08-17-2009, 12:02 PM
I have noticed since my cold water intake is "T" off after the raw water pump impeller, that I do not get any cold water unless i keep the engine running. Where else can we tap in for cold water so that I can get it without running the engine.

Hollywood
08-17-2009, 12:07 PM
Before the RWP but you're gonna run out of hot anyways if the engine is not running. Doing this will also drain the hot block of cooling water, which you'll be filling back up with cold water upon start up. I do not recommend doing this.

dodgybee
08-17-2009, 12:14 PM
ps check your end plug lead looks like its ready to fall off and give you a misfire

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 12:17 PM
[QUOTE=MariStar-Man;624245]Also found this with the nut hanging freely on the rod!

I prefer nuts hanging freely BELOW the rod!:D

I'm Insulting you if you didn't already know that.... Ne need for insults! lol I conveniently changed your words.. No, But Yea I do now...I don't like things that didn't come with the boat, but that's sum good rope there...

Maybe I can make a tow rope out of it?

scott023
08-17-2009, 12:18 PM
Yeh, next time you guys come out of left field to pile on Coz, I'm gonna try it too. That "release" must really be something. There must be something about the joy of immaturity that I'm not seeing anymore.

There are those of us that call a spade a spade and then there are those that don't. I guess you fall into the latter.

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 12:22 PM
ps check your end plug lead looks like its ready to fall off and give you a misfire

Good eyes! CAn you beleive that? i'm glad you noticed it. I'm out the door now...

Hollywood
08-17-2009, 12:24 PM
Or the boot could just be slipping off.

Dave2302
08-17-2009, 12:24 PM
ps check your end plug lead looks like its ready to fall off and give you a misfire


Well spotted mate ;)

Where abouts are you in UK, I'm in NW Scottish Highlands now Moved up 2 yrs ago but used to be Kent SE England Skied at Lydd WSC last few years before move.

Into barefoot myself, have custom built O/B B/F boat but use the 190 Prostar on LPG to ski the tourists up here at our waterski school. The Prostar is much cheaper to run on LPG than the 225 HP Yamaha on 1.09 per litre petrol!! :D

Regards Dave

Dave2302
08-17-2009, 12:28 PM
Before the RWP, you'll be filling back up with cold water upon start up. I do not recommend doing this.

Yeah dead right there, I wouldn't do that either lol. B4 Raw pump but he'll need some other form of pump to pump the water above the water line ;)

Hoosier Bob
08-17-2009, 12:38 PM
Pile on Bigmac!:D I guess you guys could mess with me if you wish!;)

bigmac
08-17-2009, 12:41 PM
There are those of us that call a spade a spade and then there are those that don't. I guess you fall into the latter.




I think you're confusing calling a "spade a spade" with calling it a "f**king shovel". Plain speaking doesn't have to be offensive. JohnE speaks plainly. Others in their dealing with Coz are just offensive. Nothing wrong with expressing your opinion. It would be nice, among adults, if you could do it without silly name calling for the sake of immature self-indulgence.

That's as plain as I can speak. And you're right...I think I did feel a little release there.

dodgybee
08-17-2009, 12:46 PM
Hi Dave on a lake at chichester at the moment kids learning to wakeboard and mono, baby nearly up on horseshoe on sunday,will be up next time,send me details of your school please may look you up if we are ever up that way.Our club is chichester water ski club on ivy lake.We have a jump on it for the nutters lol.

Dave2302
08-17-2009, 12:58 PM
Hi Dave on a lake at chichester at the moment kids learning to wakeboard and mono, baby nearly up on horseshoe on sunday,will be up next time,send me details of your school please may look you up if we are ever up that way.Our club is chichester water ski club on ivy lake.We have a jump on it for the nutters lol.

Nice one. I did a bit of B/F inverted jumping at Ron Scarpa's in Florida a few years ago, battered the cr@p outta meself all week lol. He also taught me to foot backwards, could only do it on Ja's before that holiday, but Ron soon had me sorted :D

We operate the ski school as a franchise for Highland Activities, Great Glen Water Park, Invergarry. They do all the canoes, white water rafting, quad bike tours, canyoning, shooting archery etc and we do the waterskiing wakeboarding etc. At the moment I do regular Thursday and Friday, but from next summer will be doing another 2 days on the Loch at the back of our house which is Loch Duich near Kyle of Lochalsh, nr Skye Bridge. Also hope to be getting something going on Loch Ness next year too.

Anyone on holiday up here and wanting tuition from beginner to experienced in all disciplines can get me on 07968 - 837553. We don't have a slalom course, or jump ramp yet, but we also do ringo rides for the big and little kids :D

Cheers Dave

TMCNo1
08-17-2009, 01:13 PM
I think you're confusing calling a "spade a spade" with calling it a "f**king shovel". Plain speaking doesn't have to be offensive. JohnE speaks plainly. Others in their dealing with Coz are just offensive. Nothing wrong with expressing your opinion. It would be nice, among adults, if you could do it without silly name calling for the sake of immature self-indulgence.

That's as plain as I can speak. And you're right...I think I did feel a little release there.

That's right Bigmac, just let yourself go,

50590

InvertedAerials
08-17-2009, 01:23 PM
[QUOTE=MariStar-Man;624245]Also found this with the nut hanging freely on the rod!

I prefer nuts hanging freely BELOW the rod!:D

Asuming your boat is on a proper MC trailer, the rope deal is extremely ignorant.
Get her to a lauch and get the boat pulled up a couple more inches. The pin on the boat buddy is supposed to go thru the bow eye (not insulting you if you already knew that).

ROFL!!!! Funniest thing I have read in along time! I would NEVER have thought of saying something like that!!! Too funny!!!

JohnE
08-17-2009, 01:45 PM
Bigmac's got a point. I did lower myself a bit with this whole ordeal last night. Then I just agreed with Coz to let it go. So if you're like me and don't like Coz or his being here, you can just let him know. No need to be insulting. Preferably in a PM. This thread got a little over the top.

flipper
08-17-2009, 01:48 PM
That was a serious nut kicking contest

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 01:53 PM
Pile on Bigmac!:D I guess you guys could mess with me if you wish!;)
i was just curious about your avatar...is Archie dead or did he just get a whiff of Edith...


50590
That's right Bigmac, just let yourself go,


Hahaha That's me in uhhh...60 years...

coz
08-17-2009, 01:56 PM
Bigmac's got a point. I did lower myself a bit with this whole ordeal last night. Then I just agreed with Coz to let it go. So if you're like me and don't like Coz or his being here, you can just let him know. No need to be insulting. Preferably in a PM. .

Do me a favor and keep your opinions to yourself because they don't mean crap to me.

I've never said I didn't like anyone here, nor am I judgmental about someone being here (It isn't my site to pass judgment) So if you don't like me or me being here........deal with it, because a copuple of dudes sitting behind a computer aren't gonna run me off, I ain't like Chad.

TMCNo1
08-17-2009, 01:57 PM
i was just curious about your avatar...is Archie dead or did he just get a whiff of Edith...




i was just curious about your avatar...is Archie dead or did he just get a whiff of Edith...








Hahaha That's me in uhhh...60 years...


I usually have the same expression on my face after I've had a conversation with my meathead son-in-law!:rolleyes:

shepherd
08-17-2009, 02:20 PM
Nice looking prop Maristar-man!

shepherd
08-17-2009, 02:22 PM
Thats a good job, now get ready to do that about every 3rd time you use the boat. Too bad it won't stay that way!

buzzkill..

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 02:53 PM
I'm trying to source the O-rings like on my front RED and GREEN light, and gas cap.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01137.jpg
wow bad pic

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 02:55 PM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01132.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01133.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 02:57 PM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01123.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01124.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01125.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01126.jpg

Hoosier Bob
08-17-2009, 02:58 PM
It is from the scene when Edith is rambling on about who knows what. He takes his hand makes it look like a gun and loads it with a round. Making his hand a gun he fires it a few times then bang! That is what he looks like when Edith finally turns to look at him. Playing dead of course:Di was just curious about your avatar...is Archie dead or did he just get a whiff of Edith...


50590



Hahaha That's me in uhhh...60 years...

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 02:58 PM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01127.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01128.jpg


Yep, that's the buffer i used @ 2300 rpms
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01129.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01131.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 03:01 PM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01130.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/new%20pics%20and%20gelcoat/DSC01131.jpg

i think without the MARISTAR decal, the boat looks longer, more Sleek...

opinions?

Hoosier Bob
08-17-2009, 03:02 PM
I think Johnny and Coz need to polish their gear!:D

VOLFAN
08-17-2009, 03:03 PM
For some reason I am not able to view the pics that you post????

trickskier
08-17-2009, 03:03 PM
You need to do the fins & strut next.............:D

flipper
08-17-2009, 03:04 PM
Looks great

wheeler
08-17-2009, 03:06 PM
That really depends on how long the rod is :D

Hoosier Bob
08-17-2009, 03:09 PM
You have a fourth fin?:confused:You need to do the fins & strut next.............:D

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 03:12 PM
"One Mans nut's is another man's treasure..." Or something like that... hahah

trickskier
08-17-2009, 03:13 PM
You have a fourth fin?:confused:

You can count to 4??? :rolleyes:

Hoosier Bob
08-17-2009, 03:14 PM
I saw 8 but experience tells me to divide by 2!:DYou can count to 4??? :rolleyes:

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 03:19 PM
You need to do the fins & strut next.............:D

Wow! that is really Keewwl. Great job. Did you polish it or purchase it? I would like to do the strut and i prolly will now that you have showed me up! ;)

I'll have to polish it though. time to buy more wet sand sand paper...

MariStar-Man
08-17-2009, 03:21 PM
For some reason I am not able to view the pics that you post????


i'm sorry about that. My pics are prolly too big. You can go here to see them. there is about 4 pages. click on picture once there to make them bigger:



http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/


copy or paste above link

Cheers

Hoosier Bob
08-17-2009, 03:27 PM
All that shine and dull pitot tube nuts? What a waste!:DYou need to do the fins & strut next.............:D

Muttley
08-17-2009, 03:57 PM
I'm a bit confused as to why the rope and just not going thru the bow eye with the Boat Buddy. It would seem obvious to me. :confused:

Now you need to dip the boat, open the BB latch, winch it up, snap her shut and yer done.

As far as rear straps go, mine didn't come with them either.

TMCNo1
08-17-2009, 04:15 PM
That second pic looks like some Compound W is needed!

Muttley
08-17-2009, 04:19 PM
I made my own version of a "fake a lake" with a plunger and a clamped on connection that attaches to my garden hose. It has worked for me for the last 2 or 3 years without problem. Cost me about $5.00 total. It is a quick, cheap alternative.

Ditto. A lot like my first girlfriend. Cheap n' easy.

JohnE
08-17-2009, 04:19 PM
Do me a favor and keep your opinions to yourself because they don't mean crap to me.

I've never said I didn't like anyone here, nor am I judgmental about someone being here (It isn't my site to pass judgment) So if you don't like me or me being here........deal with it, because a copuple of dudes sitting behind a computer aren't gonna run me off, I ain't like Chad.


Stick around if you want to. I can deal with it. I'm not trying to run you off, nor will I get any further into throwing insults. You don't even bother me enough to put on an Ignore list. I imagine others here feel you have something positive to contribute. I don't. I haven't read anything other than self indulgent blabber and some serious post whoring your first year. And you seem to like stirring the pot. You've passed plenty of judgement on this site. Dealer, towers, need I go on? Passing judgement on boats, dealers, riders, swimsuits, cars, bikes, beer, and each other is what we do here. Long before you or I showed up. You certainly are not like Chad. If you were you'd have been gone long ago. Plenty of comments have been thrown your way.

Feel free to reply, but I'm done with this topic. You can have the last word.

trickskier
08-17-2009, 04:22 PM
Wow! that is really Keewwl. Great job. Did you polish it or purchase it? I would like to do the strut and i prolly will now that you have showed me up! ;)

I'll have to polish it though. time to buy more wet sand sand paper...

I removed them and took them to a brass polishing shop.

TMCNo1
08-17-2009, 04:24 PM
Most any hardware store has bins in the plumbing dept with all sizes of o-ring, just find one the fits the item of the proper diameter. I've bought spares for every o-ring I've run across on the boat,
50597

trickskier
08-17-2009, 04:24 PM
You have a fourth fin?:confused:

98' Prostar 190 had 4 fins. :D

Hoosier Bob
08-17-2009, 04:24 PM
LOL! This is kind of fun! I have to work!I do not want to throw stones!Stick around if you want to. I can deal with it. I'm not trying to run you off, nor will I get any further into throwing insults. You don't even bother me enough to put on an Ignore list.

DUCK! Lol!:DI imagine others here feel you have something positive to contribute. I don't. I haven't read anything other than self indulgent blabber and some serious post whoring your first year. And you seem to like stirring the pot. You've passed plenty of judgement on this site. Dealer, towers, need I go on? Passing judgement on boats, dealers, riders, swimsuits, cars, bikes, beer, and each other is what we do here. Long before you or I showed up. You certainly are not like Chad. If you were you'd have been gone long ago. Plenty of comments have been thrown your way.
Feel free to reply, but I'm done with this topic. You can have the last word.

JohnE
08-17-2009, 04:28 PM
Anyone know what HB is drinking?

Hoosier Bob
08-17-2009, 04:29 PM
Actually this is me sober and that is another thread! Wuz up Johneeeeee?:D Hey, can you see that old thread? I am gonna check now!Anyone know what HB is drinking?

trickskier
08-17-2009, 04:40 PM
Anyone know what HB is drinking?

Probably anything he can get his hands on...............:friday:

TMCNo1
08-17-2009, 04:45 PM
The bow eye is suppose to be all the way up into the V of the Boat Buddy with the pin through it,
50599

50600

FlatBoard
08-17-2009, 05:16 PM
No rear straps from the dealer either. Said that I didn't need them. I went out and bought 'em anyway. Spray some lubricant in that boat buddy latch once and a while to help keep that pin moving freely, and don't slam the boat into it while you are loading. Get close then winch it up while the driver idles it up in gear til it latches.

turbosdad
08-17-2009, 05:17 PM
I was told by the dealer that the pin of the boat buddy is only for ramping then is to be pulled out. In other words dont trailer the boat with the pin through the eye.????

FlatBoard
08-17-2009, 05:21 PM
Looks like some professional services may be needed!! Have you done that type of work before? I know there is information on this board for fiberglass and gel coat repair.

bigmac
08-17-2009, 06:03 PM
The bottom one looks like it's a good candidate for a $25 jar of Glacier White gel coat paste from Spectrum, but the upper photo looks like a pretty complex repair. A good gelcoat guy could make that look like new. Unless you have experience, I'd farm that one out and have him fix the other gouge at the same time.

jdhunt0
08-17-2009, 06:12 PM
Are places like this just cosmetic or are they in real need of repair?

Hrkdrivr
08-17-2009, 06:40 PM
What is a safety lockout? What's it for? What is (was) the nickle for? I'm still learning about these surge-brake trailers...

gibbons
08-17-2009, 07:02 PM
I'll take a stab at this....

The slot in the trailer guides the hydraulic piston that provides the pressure to apply the brakes. When you brake your tow vehicle, the boat wants to keep going. It pushes on the hitch ball, which compresses the piston, and the brakes come on. When you accelerate again, the piston extends back out, and the brakes come off.

The problem is backing up, the brakes get applied when the hitch ball pushes backwards. The nickle and back up key keep the piston from compressing, which keeps the brake from applying. If the trailer had the nickel in it, the brakes probably weren't working at all.

The dealers have "yard" keys, they have the same slot insert, but have a long hoop welded over the top. That keeps them from falling out when jocking trailers around with fork trucks and stuff. They don't sell them, because if you left the yard key in and drove, the brakes won't work. I welded a hoop on mine, and just paid careful attention.

That being said, I eventually replaced my drum brakes with discs. That required a new actuator and piston, so I got the one with the reverse solenoid on it. When actuated, the solenoid releases pressure so you can back up. I have a red switch on my dash I just flip to back up, with having to get out and put the key in.

And finally, my original brake lines rusted out in about 3 years, inside the trailer frame tubing. I had to replace it all, and it has been fine for may years. Watch out for that one!

By the way, the 4 disc brake upgrade was terrific. I have a tandem with just a 205 on it, and I don't even notice the boat is there on braking.

gibbons
08-17-2009, 07:08 PM
Oh, yeah, if you were a pint low, you were probably below the orifices on the cylinder piston. That means you would have gotten air in the system. You will probably use the whole piston stroke compressing the bubbles, and your brakes aren't working. You need to bleed them (purge the bubbles out the drum/disc end), as a minumum.

Hammer
08-17-2009, 07:18 PM
I would go with a 7 pin and use a conversion to 5 pin for your MC trailer (assuming that's what you have). That way you will have everything that you would ever need in one plug.

nascar
08-17-2009, 07:26 PM
Now thats a "clean " boat ! Looks great , super shine !

TMCNo1
08-17-2009, 07:42 PM
Looking better every day!

You need to add some grease to the wheel bearings, til you see about 1/8"+ of the blue piston outside the Bearing Buddy housing. There is a grease fitting under the center cap of the piston.50616

Hammer
08-17-2009, 07:50 PM
Nice job, looks good!

coz
08-17-2009, 07:54 PM
Looks great dude! :headbang: where by the pacific are you?..........I'm a SoCal native from OC, been away from the mother land for a little over 3 years now.

Lucky
08-17-2009, 11:17 PM
I put a 7/4 plug on my truck. Handles the flat 4 and round 7. Got it from Etrailer.com (part# 37185). They also have a 4/5/7 I believe, but you have to hunt or call. With my plug, the boats uses the 4 flat and my enclosed trailer with brakes uses the 7. No adapters to misplace and looks nice. Good luck.

McFire
08-17-2009, 11:37 PM
Ditto. A lot like my first girlfriend. Cheap n' easy.

And shared by all my friends:cool:

Hrkdrivr
08-18-2009, 12:06 AM
Ahhh...I see. I was straight on the overall way surge brakes work, but didn't know what the key and the nickle were about.

The only surge-brake trailers I've ever owned had the "blue" fifth wire so I never got to deal w/the joys of trying to back a trailer w/them.

And yes, the disc brakes are great; those combined with the "tow/haul" mode on my truck's transmission handle our X-45 monster quite nicely. I can really tell when the trailer brakes kick in. It would be a nightmare to forget to remove the key and have to stop that mountain of metal and fiberglass barreling down a hill...ugh.

Gibbons, your original lines rusted out in 3 years?!? Did you boat in salt/brackish water? I think I'd be mighty POd if my lines rusted out that quickly. Wow.

east tx skier
08-18-2009, 12:20 AM
Wait a minute. So you took sandpaper to your prop???

kgrove
08-18-2009, 12:39 AM
OK, I'm baffled... Exactly why does one polish their prop or rudder? Is there a performance issue at hand or is it purely aesthetics while sitting on the trailer?

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:01 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01138.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01143.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01142.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01146.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:05 AM
I will now buy a length of garden hoswe and route it up away from engine so I'll simply need to raise Sun Deck to Run, or Winterize Engine...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01145.jpg

I also got a Suction Pump:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01140.jpg

and a Strut for the Sundeck. The old one Shown on top barely even extended.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01141.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:06 AM
While I'm contorted in the storage area, "Why not Take Engine Pics...":o

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01147.jpg



Is there a screen somewhere in the water line to collect debris?
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01148.jpg


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01149.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:09 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01150.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01151.jpg

Fixed the Ducting so that if anyone throws something into it it will bounce back. 3 Layers of the finest Duct tape...lol

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01152.jpg

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:14 AM
Found this in the engine area...Don't know where it goes yet? Any thoughts

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01144.jpg

Then while looking under to see how strong the Tower install was I see this:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/Parts%20and%20Engine/DSC01157.jpg

What the Heck! The Tiny Chrome TIe Downs have a huge piece of Aluminum for support and the Tower just a Washer? Should that be changed to at least 4" of alum or stainless?

Lastly, the tower has a light on the top but the wire just ends half way thru tower and it's not connected to anything and by the looks of the wire end, has never been connected to anything... I'm going to try to wire that wire somewhere...

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:18 AM
Wait a minute. So you took sandpaper to your prop???

You're right! I should have brought the prop to the sandpaper...:rolleyes:

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:27 AM
The bow eye is suppose to be all the way up into the V of the Boat Buddy with the pin through it,
i see you have 2 latches on your Boat Eye. What type is it and where does it connect. Looks safe to me!

So, turbosdad, The Dealer told you to unhook it, and what just have the winch holding on to the front of the boat?? Does anyone else think that's ok?

Flatboard, i sprayed my pin and it didn't move. I sprayed and sprayed and it never moved once! :rolleyes: hahah.. thx for info!

FrankSchwab
08-18-2009, 01:30 AM
I think you'll notice that the tower bolt is (almost) drilled through and attached to the plate that's glassed into place. The cleats have both - a plate glassed in, and the aluminum plate. Don't know why, unless people are using them to tow oil tankers.

Your fresh-air duct looks about like mine. Gotta find some way to protect that.

Is your fire extinguisher just inside the observer's seat back, where the fresh-air duct is? Mine was, and was quite a pain. Moved it to the bulkhead in front of the driver's feet; much better.

I don't recognize the bolt. Good luck on figuring it out.

Check your seat base - on mine, the two in-deck threaded fasteners at the bottom front of the seat pulled out of the deck. What a pain to resolve. Make sure your screws are tight!

/frank

gibbons
08-18-2009, 01:35 AM
Nope, fresh water. But we launched 2-3 times a week for those first couple of years. Yeah, I was PO'ed, because they sent me a *roll* of new brake tube. Better than me buying it, I guess. I had to cut it and flare it. Have you ever flared brake lines? I hate doing that, they never come out concentric as I would like.

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:38 AM
www.skiboatcovers.com is the best

I'm going to check them out. Which cover is better:

Top Gun that doesn't breath and is waterproof and needs summer vents or

or Sunbrella that breathes, water repellant , premium fabric

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:39 AM
You have the same trailer tongue as I do. You probably do not have a solenoid to allow backing up. The Previous Owner, by sticking a nickel in where he did, disabled the trailer brakes completely. I would recommend removing it.

Check out page 10 of the UFP Maintenance manual. (http://ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/A-60,%2075%20_%2084%20Actuator%20Maintenance.pdf) What you need is the "Brake Lockout Bracket", shown in figure 8. Not quite sure where to source one; attaching something to the nickel so you could easily remove it after backing up may be your best (and cheapest) bet.

/frank

Thanks Frank. i found a plug at the MC store for 6 bucks. Now I have to find the safety cable that goes from trailer to tow vehicle...

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:42 AM
yummy....hey all of us ae friends too!:D

J/k---> stay safe

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:45 AM
Most any hardware store has bins in the plumbing dept with all sizes of o-ring, just find one the fits the item of the proper diameter. I've bought spares for every o-ring I've run across on the boat,
50597

Hey! that looks like my medicine jar... Where did you get that....Lolol I been going to the Mc Store so much that I fogot I can still buyu stuff at the, "Other" Places...

:worthy:

By the way, TMC, is there anything you don't know or don't have...?:D

kgrove
08-18-2009, 01:51 AM
I was told by the dealer that the pin of the boat buddy is only for ramping then is to be pulled out. In other words dont trailer the boat with the pin through the eye.????

You sure the dealer didn't mean don't rely *only* on the bb pin while trailering? Everyone I've talked to keeps the pin engaged through the eye until they are ready to launch (in other words, they trailer the boat with the dual protection of the winch strap and the boat buddy). The only way the pin or bb could ever be damaged is if the boat starts to slide off the trailer, and if that happens, you'd gladly sacrifice the $125 boat buddy for the chance at protecting your boat.

As for rear straps, the majority of MC owners I've queried claim to use them if they travel on rough roads and/or long distances, but most MCs I peek at on the boat ramps don't have them. Either I'm seeing boats traveling short distances on smooth roads, or the owners know its a good idea to have the rear straps on but don't take the time to put them on.

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:56 AM
Oh, yeah, if you were a pint low, you were probably below the orifices on the cylinder piston. That means you would have gotten air in the system. You will probably use the whole piston stroke compressing the bubbles, and your brakes aren't working. You need to bleed them (purge the bubbles out the drum/disc end), as a minumum.

Is there a way to check if brakes are working or if there is air in em?

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 01:57 AM
If you were a pint low a I would think about going through your brakes. If you have drums one or both of the cylinders could be leaking. If you have disc then the pads are probably worn. Either way I'd want to know where that fluid went.

Depending on how old the trailer is I'd probably recommend flushing the old brake fluid out and bleeding the brakes at the same time.

Trailers are the most over looked area of boating until your stuck on the side of the road.


you're right! I'll take some time and research how to check these things... i hope they are disk, I haven't even looked yet...

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 02:01 AM
I'll take a look. I'm confused. Whiile at the MC store, I saw oh! wait a second. I saw a 6 Round, but was there a pin in the middle as well? Thenif yes, that would be the 7.

I'm goin to etrailer to see if i can get the parts. Thanks for the link!:cool:

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 02:08 AM
Looks great dude! :headbang: where by the pacific are you?..........I'm a SoCal native from OC, been away from the mother land for a little over 3 years now.

I'm actually up north in the Bay Area. I love it in OC. My sister lives in fountian Valley.

Looking better every day!

You need to add some grease to the wheel bearings, til you see about 1/8"+ of the blue piston outside the Bearing Buddy housing. There is a grease fitting under the center cap of the piston.50616

Oh, so the blue thingy moves as you install grease? i have to buy some and a grease gun. I was at napa but didn't see any blue grease or marine grease. Can i use the the same grease for all the fittings, like the steering?



Hammer--->Thanks fro the props...

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 02:17 AM
I think you'll notice that the tower bolt is (almost) drilled through and attached to the plate that's glassed into place. The cleats have both - a plate glassed in, and the aluminum plate. Don't know why, unless people are using them to tow oil tankers. I saw that but didn't know if it was metal of fiberglass. so i guess it's ok...[/red]

Your fresh-air duct looks about like mine. Gotta find some way to protect that. I also used the real metal duct tape on the bottom and the inside. it's wuite stiff...lol no pun intended...

Is your fire extinguisher just inside the observer's seat back, where the fresh-air duct is? Mine was, and was quite a pain. Moved it to the bulkhead in front of the driver's feet; much better. I hope never to have to use it, but moving somewhere more accessible would be better...

I don't recognize the bolt. Good luck on figuring it out.Thanks

Check your seat base - on mine, the two in-deck threaded fasteners at the bottom front of the seat pulled out of the deck. What a pain to resolve. Make sure your screws are tight!I checking my seat base and my wife asked why i was grabbing my butt...I said Frank told me to do it! :D

/frank
Here is the obligatory 10 letter reply...:rolleyes:

Sodar
08-18-2009, 02:24 AM
Bolt is an upholstery stud that has worked it's way out from either the seat backs or the sidepanels.

Chicago190
08-18-2009, 02:27 AM
MariStar-Man,

If I was to try to start the engine on my boat, how would I go about that? Perhaps you and Coz can team up to supply large pictures of my dashboard with and without the key in the ignition?

Just kidding, glad you are enjoying your new boat.

Kell
08-18-2009, 02:33 AM
The bolt and nylon lock nut look like what is used to fasten the seat backs to the gunnel. Look up under the driverside arm rest or where the cup holders are and you will see nylon lock nuts all down the gunnel holding the side panel to the fiberglass. If you found the bolt in the engine area, I suspect it worked itself loose from the back seal panel.

Kell
08-18-2009, 02:46 AM
Is there a way to check if brakes are working or if there is air in em?

The quick check is unplug the flat 5 harness from your tow vehicle and back up. If you are not able to back the trailer up your trailer brakes are working. If you can move the trailer backwards, your trailer brakes are not engaging and its likely you have air in your brake lines. Need to bleed them.

MariStar-Man
08-18-2009, 02:53 AM
My dad bought me this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/65700-65799/65700.gif

But I'm having trouble finding WEt SAnd Sand Paper that fits on it. Harbor Freight has the right sze bot they are not we t sand...:o

Heres the link to Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=65700)

TMCNo1
08-18-2009, 07:41 AM
Hey! that looks like my medicine jar... Where did you get that....Lolol I been going to the Mc Store so much that I fogot I can still buyu stuff at the, "Other" Places...

:worthy:

By the way, TMC, is there anything you don't know or don't have...?:D


It's been a long 30+ year boating road, made a lot of mistakes, learned a lot and collected a lot.

bturner2
08-18-2009, 07:44 AM
I've purchased all my boats used and most were 3-4 years old. A lot of these trailers just sit out in the sun and are completely neglilected. The safe move is to take nothing for granted and go through the whole trailer. I would typically pull all the wheels off inspect the drums and re-pack the bearings on the old style brakes. I'd check the pads and change the oil in the newer style brakes.

The only way I know to check to see if air is in the lines is to bleed them. I've done this so many times that I bought a power bleeder years ago. With the power bleeder one person can do the job in about 1/2 hour. Without a power bleeder it's a two man job and a bit more challanging. If you do a search on bleeding brakes you should find several posts on this subject.

If you find yourself having to rebuild drums I would concur with others on this post and convert to disc if your budget allows. The difference is amazing and the maintainence is considerably less.

TMCNo1
08-18-2009, 07:45 AM
i see you have 2 latches on your Boat Eye. What type is it and where does it connect. Looks safe to me!

So, turbosdad, The Dealer told you to unhook it, and what just have the winch holding on to the front of the boat?? Does anyone else think that's ok?

Flatboard, i sprayed my pin and it didn't move. I sprayed and sprayed and it never moved once! :rolleyes: hahah.. thx for info!


One is the winch strap, the other is a stainless plastic coated safety cable.
50639

TMCNo1
08-18-2009, 07:48 AM
I'm actually up north in the Bay Area. I love it in OC. My sister lives in fountian Valley.



Oh, so the blue thingy moves as you install grease? i have to buy some and a grease gun. I was at napa but didn't see any blue grease or marine grease. Can i use the the same grease for all the fittings, like the steering?



Hammer--->Thanks fro the props...

Having the piston extending slightly assures you the hub is full of grease and not sitting dead in the housing with no pressure to keep the hub pressurized to prevent water intrusion when the hot/warm hub hits the water during launch when the grease contracts from the cold water and otherwise could pull water in the hub.
Best wheel bearing grease I've ever seen/used. Found most anywhere including Ace Hardware and Walmart
50640

SkiDog
08-18-2009, 07:57 AM
You're right! I should have brought the prop to the sandpaper...:rolleyes:

Its a whole lot easier to polish the prop while its spinning!

mayo93prostar
08-18-2009, 08:22 AM
Nice clean ride and nice sized pics.

TMCNo1
08-18-2009, 09:36 AM
OK, I'm baffled... Exactly why does one polish their prop or rudder? Is there a performance issue at hand or is it purely aesthetics while sitting on the trailer?

I'm even more baffled, why would anyone not want to polish their underwater gear?:rolleyes::D


By any chance, do you have a $3000 set of wheels and tires on your car/truck that you never clean, wax, polish or apply protectant?

Slinkyredfoot
08-18-2009, 09:43 AM
Might try Fein tools, www.feinus.com, got a pretty good selection of stuff for these multi tools

TMCNo1
08-18-2009, 09:51 AM
My dad bought me this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/65700-65799/65700.gif

But I'm having trouble finding WEt SAnd Sand Paper that fits on it. Harbor Freight has the right sze bot they are not we t sand...:o

Heres the link to Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=65700)


You probably won't find Wet-R-Dry sandpaper to use on a electric power tool. Something about water and electricity don't mix. Wet-R-Dry is designed to use by hand or a block sander, but today body shops use up to 1500 or finer dry sandpaper discs on DA sanders that have a velcro type attachment feature for finishing and prep sanding prior to washdown, priming and painting.
Just use the power tool dry before you start any hand wet sanding if this is for the teak platform to get the wood down to clean new looking material.
3M makes the system along with others, I adapted it to a sanding disc for a cordless drill. It has the velcro weave side on a sponge base and the dry paper attaches to it, 320, 600 and 1500 shown and can be found at any auto paint supply facility,
50642

JimN
08-18-2009, 10:09 AM
My dad bought me this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/65700-65799/65700.gif

But I'm having trouble finding WEt SAnd Sand Paper that fits on it. Harbor Freight has the right sze bot they are not we t sand...:o

Heres the link to Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=65700)

What are you going to sand? If you're going to sand the hull, be careful with any kind of sanding pad that has points or edges that are somewhat straight- it can leave a line. Round pads on a random orbital sander work best but if you're careful, this one does work well. I have one and mostly use it for cutting but if you practice on something, you'll be able to sand without leaving ridges. I like it and it's not $400 like the full Fein kit.

TMCNo1
08-18-2009, 10:12 AM
Thanks Frank. i found a plug at the MC store for 6 bucks. Now I have to find the safety cable that goes from trailer to tow vehicle...

Contact these people, Unique Function Products, http://www.ufpnet.com/ and they can direct you to the replacement parts.See below for owners manual for the actuator on maintenance, assembly, disassembly, brake bleeding, check list and instructions on how to replace the cable and or cable clips for the actuator.

OK, I had a brain fart!
Here is the PDF file link for the A-60 UFP Disc brake Actuator brochure, http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Actuators.PDF
and
Here is the PDF link for the A-60 UFP Disc brake Actuator maintenance booklet that has exploded views of the parts and part #'s and all the info you can use, http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/A-60,%2075%20_%2084%20Actuator%20Maintenance.pdf
Print it off and you have a owners manual!


Also, get a couple extra cable clips just in case you accidentally destroy one and don't have a spare.

Maristar210
08-18-2009, 11:01 AM
I have a boat cover that I bought for my 2004 but I have a 2005 tower. I think it will fit your '99 - My mistake could be your luck if you are interested make me an offer.
I even put 303 fabric protector on it, now it's just sitting in the attic....

Hoosier Bob
08-18-2009, 11:19 AM
Here is a nice link to Waymires.com

They have a ton of parts and I have completely rebuilt my trailer usung their parts. Very reasonably priced. The key is a pain. They have and I am sire others have a locking resevoir cap that works well also. The part number is 34359U

Search UFP Products on the Adobe file and you will see the locking res cap as well as the actuator.

rholmes
08-18-2009, 11:19 AM
OK, I'm baffled... Exactly why does one polish their prop or rudder?

Well, if all you were looking at was my shaft, then it would be a humiliating day. I have to make... ahem... your gaze fall elsewhere. ;)

east tx skier
08-18-2009, 11:21 AM
You're right! I should have brought the prop to the sandpaper...:rolleyes:

It's a legitimate question. Running surfaces are pretty sensitive. If they weren't, most of us wouldn't be shelling out the bucks for CNC machined props. Glad it shined up for you. If you notice any vibration in the drive train, maybe just hit the other side with a hammer to balance it out. I'm all for boats looking their best, but not at the expense of performance. That's why I asked.

http://www.emofaces.com/en/emoticons/i/idiot-emoticon.gif

east tx skier
08-18-2009, 11:23 AM
I'm even more baffled, why would anyone not want to polish their underwater gear?:rolleyes::D


By any chance, do you have a $3000 set of wheels and tires on your car/truck that you never clean, wax, polish or apply protectant?

Harold, do you sand yours. Or do you just use some sort of ss polish (I know you don't have brass anymore).

TMCNo1
08-18-2009, 11:30 AM
Harold, do you sand yours. Or do you just use some sort of ss polish (I know you don't have brass anymore).


Not since they were originally polished. The fins and strut are still bronze and just need the occasional hand and cordless drill Powerball polish to bring back.
I just use the following with a sponge applicator and dry terry towel, as a matter of fact, I haven't polished anything since right before CSM '07.
506475064450645

east tx skier
08-18-2009, 11:37 AM
You're too fast for me. As you've often requested, I used this thing called a search engine (which I apparently set up) and found your recommendation for Tarnite.

http://media.mydoitbest.com/imagerequest.aspx?sku=636896&size=2&warehouse=C&newsize=200

I've got a new tunable rudder on its way for my old tug. So I figured I'd polish up the old one so I could sell it. Used rudders that haven't had logs or boulders applied to them are not exactly the easiest things to come by I've discovered.