Couple of Slalom Course Questions

[YooperScott]

I am thinking about building my own slalom course to use at our camp. I have searched around the internet, looked at pictures of the available portable courses, and have a basic plan where I think I could build it for less than half what the ready built ones cost. I would start by just building a 4 turn course (because of size) but would "design" it to be able to add 2 more turns. I would like to build this to be the fastest setup and take down time as possible as I am the primary user and cannot leave it in and don't want to spend 30+ minutes to setup and then another 30+ minutes to take down just to go skiing everyday. It would be much better if I could do any setup on shore, pull it out and then pull it back in and leave on shore. I am thinking that ideally I could attach one end to my dock and have the 4 "booms" and rope on the platform/back of the boat and slowly drive out and drop them off as we go all the way to the anchored end. My thinking is if I needed to add tension I could tighten at the dock end too. For takedown go and pull the anchor (with a disconnnect on it) and then pull it in from shore.

My questions are what would you say is the minimum distance I could reasonably have the entrance gates away shore (assuming the course is set ~45 degrees from the shoreline so the boat can turn in for the course and we would not have to start and get to speed in the straightline)? Or in other words how far before the entrance gates would you say the boat needs to be going straight to have proper setup time? Second how small can the PVC pipe be and still be able to have the course stay straight? How feasible do you think pulling the course in from shore would be (having to pull all of the PVC through the water)?

Thanks,
Scott
'95 LT-1 Prostar 190

[nascar]

Well .... I think you would be better off to purchase a course . I think your idea may take just as long to set up or close to it and you only have 4 bouy course . If you are going to pull it in from the dock , you will need some kind of winch or you will have some very tired arms. As to set up distance that depends alot on the skier and driver ( to get the boat up to speed ) , more advanced skiers are ready to pull out for the gates as soon as they pop up and beginers need a little more distance to get ready . I feel a short set up distance would be 400 feet . I know it sounds like a lot money for a " purchased portable course " but in the long run I think you will be better off .

[h2oskifreak]

Min. distance from shore would be the distance it takes your boat to get up to the speed you want to ski at. 30 Min. set up is short for any course. Plan for longer in the set of any course.

[Skipper]

I had an 8 ball course on a short lake in KY. Skier dropped within ten feet of the shore. As soon as the boat was at speed the skier was pulling out for the gates. Very short set up. Also, very scary at each end when you drop after a 36mph pass.

To determine the minimum distance, put a skier in the water near your dock then pull out in the direction you intend to set the course. Note the position of the boat when the skier is up and would be able to pull out for the gates. That is the closest you should put the pre-gates.

As for the course. Agreed that you can build one cheaper than you can purchase. However, dragging the course into place takes a lot of time, even if everything is attached.

Another option would be making your own sinking course. It would always be sitting on the bottom of the lake. You just displace the water in the anchors with air until it floats. Still at risk from fishermen or anyone who may drag an anchor across the area, but much more user friendly than dragging the course out each time.

Last note. I have to drive nearly two hours and install a course so my daughter and I can ski three to four sets then pull the course right back out and drive two hours back home. Set up and removal takes about 30 mins each way if nothing goes wrong.

[D3skier]

from my understanding of a true slalom lake a short set up can be done in as little as 2300 feet a good setup would be at least 2500 feet and optimal is 2800 feet

PM at ya as well

[YooperScott]

Sorry I wasn't clear enough with my question about how far you think the course should be out from the dock. I have plenty of room coming parallel to the shoreline to be at speed and then make the turn (call it 45 degrees) to get in line with the course. My question is how far from the entrance gates should I plan to have the boat already in a straight line (but already at speed)? Obviously the boat could be turning in right at the buoy but what is reasonable for the skier? I am guessing at least some extra distance?

Then the other big question is what type of PVC can I use to make sure the turn buoys can stay where they are supposed to be? I found where a guy built his own and used 1 1/2" Schedule SDR 21 which looks like some really thin stuff so my guess is it doesn't take much?

Scott
'95 LT-1 Prostar 190

[Craig]

1) There are plenty of people who build their own course, you can purchase a nice set of plans from Ed at EZ-slalom. However, if you figure in how much materials cost and the plans ($30, I think) it is hardly cheaper to build it yourself. Go ahead and buy a pre-made course, I am sure that Ed could make you a 4 ball course if you really wanted.

2) 1800' is an average minimum distance for a course. I have skied on a lake that was about 1600' but it was an eight buoy overlapping course.

3) if your boat is at speed you want to be about 250' or greater from shore. The pre-gates on a normal course sit at about 180' so figuring a little bit of play room at the shoreline and a bit more to get the boat straight I would start at about the 250' range. We have a 45 degree turn in at one end of our lake and we have probably 300' of setup and it works out pretty well.

[Skipper]

On our small lake we just went end to end straight on. After the end gates the skier pulled out to the right and coasted up to the shoreline while the boat cut left and throttled to neutral. Then we lined up and ran straight through again.

We tried starting perpendicular to the shore then making a 90 degree turn into the course. This caused large rollers to run across the course. To do this type of start you really need the same distance as though you were starting from shore and that is still a hard turn.

As far as the PVC. When we built semi-permanent courses we used schedule 40, the thicker stuff. My portable course is a mix of 1 1/4" schedule 40 and 1 1/2" schedule 20 (the thin stuff). The strength is in the gates where the main line exerts force.

The reason for the mix of sch. 20 and 40 is that the 1 1/4" schedule 40 fits perfectly inside the 1 1/2" schedule 20, but not inside 1 1/2" schedule 40. But I built courses using 1 1/2" schedule 40 inside 2" schedule 40. Very stout course.

[nascar]

My old course used 2" PVC , schedule 40 . PVC 1 1/2 " may work but also it may bow , not placing the turn buoy in the correct position . You might want to check out Wallyskier.com they sell complete courses and course parts and provide info .

[YooperScott]

Thanks guys about what I was thinking for distance and PVC size. Now to source the rope and PVC and decide to actually do it.

Scott
'95 LT-1 Prostar 190

[jamisonsbrodie]

On your thoughts about dragging it out from shore; this does not work well because the arms that go out to the turn buoys will flex really bad, and could break. The whole set up does not move through the water like you would imagine. When I am tightening up my portable course, or when I try to move it a little, the arms arc really bad, and the distance that you are considering pulling it is not realistic IMO. I really think your two options are portable or submersible. There is a good write-up on aquaskier.com about making your own submersible course.

[BrianM]

You are probably going to spend as much building that course as you would just buying an EZ Slalom course ready to ski. No need to reinvent the wheel. As far as distance needed I ski on a lake that is 1900 ft long. The setup is a little short but still plenty of time to be up to speed prior to the 55m buoys. 2200 ft is a dream setup. Anything longer is overkill. I have heard of full courses in as short as 1700 ft lakes but those require a little whip in the setup.

[YooperScott]

On your thoughts about dragging it out from shore; this does not work well

I kind of figured that pulling from shore would not work well without something motorized. :D Ok so pulling it back in the boat will be the way. I just need to get pricing on PVC before I decide whether I will just build it or buy one. I do like the idea of building because a) it seems very easy to do, b) for the fun of it..... Keep in mind this from someone that built their own airplane. If I do not save much money then oh well.

Scott
'95 LT-1 Prostar 190

[rodltg2]

dont build it yourself, you will regret it.

[captain planet]

dont build it yourself, you will regret it.

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

My buddy and I are strongly considering building a portable course this off season so I have been reading these couple recent threads on portable courses. He built one while he was in college for their ski team. It doesn't seem that difficult, what will we regret? I looked at the EZ slalom and priced them out. It is nearly a $1000 for a portable course with bouys. We could make it cheaper than that.

[jamisonsbrodie]

As far as the PVC. When we built semi-permanent courses we used schedule 40, the thicker stuff. My portable course is a mix of 1 1/4" schedule 40 and 1 1/2" schedule 20 (the thin stuff). The strength is in the gates where the main line exerts force.

The reason for the mix of sch. 20 and 40 is that the 1 1/4" schedule 40 fits perfectly inside the 1 1/2" schedule 20, but not inside 1 1/2" schedule 40. But I built courses using 1 1/2" schedule 40 inside 2" schedule 40. Very stout course.


I have tried for years to find schedule 20 to replace broken pieces on my course. Where did you find it? The normal big stores don't carry it.

[Craig]

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

My buddy and I are strongly considering building a portable course this off season so I have been reading these couple recent threads on portable courses. He built one while he was in college for their ski team. It doesn't seem that difficult, what will we regret? I looked at the EZ slalom and priced them out. It is nearly a $1000 for a portable course with bouys. We could make it cheaper than that.

- 250' of PVC
- ~1000' of 3/8" poly line and spool for mainline
- ~110'+ of smaller poly line for buoy attachments
- min of 22 turn buoys
- 2, 30 lbs river anchors
- Loads of misc. hardware

I think you may be able to make it a bit cheaper, but not by much. Unless I had a friend that could get me a great deal on some PVC or poly line I wouldn't even mess with it.

Some time ago on the thewaterskiforum.com (last summer I think) a guy posted up some final numbers for how much it cost him to build a course from EZ Ed's plans. I think he ended up saving maybe $200, IIRC.

If it sounds like a lot of fun, go for it, post lots of pictures for us!

[Skipper]

I have tried for years to find schedule 20 to replace broken pieces on my course. Where did you find it? The normal big stores don't carry it.

It came with my EZ-slalom. The courses I built were 2" and 1 1/2" sch. 40. I saw some schedule 20 at the local Lowes two weeks ago.

[WTRSK1R]

I have tried for years to find schedule 20 to replace broken pieces on my course. Where did you find it? The normal big stores don't carry it.

You can get it by special order at some of the big box stores. They do not have it on the shelf, but when I asked about it, they said sure we can order it. What size and how many.

Steve

[WTRSK1R]

One other thing. Last year the guys I ski with and I bought a used EZ slalom and including shipping it from Texas to Wisconsin we only paid 300.00 for it. I would look around for a while before I jumped into building it. Even with anchors and a few replacement balls, we are still set for less then 400.00

Steve

[Jesus_Freak]

Some time ago on the thewaterskiforum.com (last summer I think) a guy posted up some final numbers for how much it cost him to build a course from EZ Ed's plans. I think he ended up saving maybe $200, IIRC.

It so much depends on what else someone has to do with their time / opportunity costs.

If someone spends 10 hours on layout and gathering parts and saves $200, then he/she just made $20 an hour. That is a reasonable tax-free income.

Some, however, dont have 10 hours to spare or the patience for the leg-work.

[woftam]

I had an accufloat course many years ago. The accufloat was handy to submerge and frustrated the heck out of the weekend wallys. The “where did the course go” look on their faces alone was worth the price of admission. It took ~5 minutes to remove all the balls and about twice as long to put them back. Once installed, day to day maintenance was minimal as compared to a traditional course placed in a public waterway. Well worth it!

Mine was a SS cable course. It was set up in mildly brackish water and required rebuilding each season. The SS cables, PVC, and hardware were all fine. The weak link was the many nicro press fittings, which degraded via electrolysis. The fittings were good for ~ a season and a half, but losing the course mid-season would be a pita, so regular replacement was required every winter. Replacement wasn’t particularly difficult. It involved carefully grinding off the old fittings, replacing them with new, and securing them in the correct position with a nicro press. (we tried a variety of sacrificial anodes, but the nicro press fittings were primary via natural selection)

At the time, SS cable was my choice as it provided a more accurate course than polly line, which would stretch. Today, there are a plethora of non-stretch/low-stretch line options available below/at/near the cost of a SS system and w/o the electrolysis issues.

An EZ Slalom course sounds like a good option, or enjoy building one yourself.