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View Full Version : 2001 Prostar 209 Fuel Pump Replacement


Bruiserg
07-31-2009, 11:13 PM
I have a 2001 Prostar 209 with the Predator 310 Hp engine option. My fuel pump died this week. I read all the other threads on this issue and could not find a specific reference to my boat year/model. The 2001 has Trottle Body Fuel Injection and the fuel pump has a return system on it. The Mastercraft Owners manual calls for a pump with 20 - 30 PSI and 1 pt/20 sec or 22.5 GPH volume. The Pump assembly has a Carter label with following info.:
71-320S
03K00
CGB 98-02
The pump body is stamped:
323
0J258 (or the last digit is a "B" - I cannot tell)
I also note that the tubing inside the assembly has a kink in it like many others have noted in other threads and it appears the cross-section is <50% with that kink?! I spent an hour at NAPA trying to match up a pump picture with correct PSI and volume specs. - no luck!

Can anyone give me cross reference numbers for this specific fuel pump? Also, has anyone installed a pump with a little bit higher PSI spec. (say 40 PSI when book calls for 20 - 30 PSI) and higher volume spec. Does this cause a problem? I will appreciate any help on this! Meanwhile, no fun on the water until I get my boat back up.

bigmac
08-01-2009, 03:13 AM
The regulator should be on your fuel rail and should return fuel your engine doesn't use back to the tank so theoretically, you could use a higher pressure pump.... IIRC, your year engine uses lower fuel pressure than later engines and I don't know the consequences of using the higher pressure pump - whether there might be a problem by exceeding the normal pressure the regulator expects to see by that much.

BOATNGUYNE
08-01-2009, 06:18 AM
MC's part number is 155192

bigmac
08-01-2009, 09:07 AM
MC's part number is 155192
Well, that's the part number for the whole fuel pump module. It says that it fits 2000-2003 TBI, but it also says it's a 60 psi pump. If that is indeed the right module, then the pump should be able to be replaced with the Airtex E2044, as in the other threads. It also is a 60 psi pump.

The fuel pump module is $441, while the pump replacement is $94. The module assembly tends to be backordered, while you can pick up the pump from any Advance Auto. The problem with the pump-replacement option is the fuel line that goes from the pump to the top of the module. No one yet has found a source for the 1/4 inch submersible fuel line necessary to replace the (kinkable) fuel line that's already in there. It would be necessary to re-use that line, not let it kink, and fit it over the 5/16 barb on the new pump.

Bottom line, it looks like your regulator needs a 60 psi pump to deliver the right fuel pressure to the injectors.

Bruiserg
08-01-2009, 10:12 AM
Thank you guys for the quick responses and helpful information. I am wondering why the manual lists 20 - 30 PSI and yet the MC assembly is spec'd at 60 PSI??!!

For the kinked hose - I took a thin walled St-St tubing and inserted inside a flex hose on a car application one time. I bent the tube to match the curves and then cut it just short of the ends that slip over the barbs. It worked fine. I am thinking I will do same on this one unless someone else recommends a submersible hose.

bigmac
08-01-2009, 10:31 AM
Thank you guys for the quick responses and helpful information. I am wondering why the manual lists 20 - 30 PSI and yet the MC assembly is spec'd at 60 PSI??!!

For the kinked hose - I took a thin walled St-St tubing and inserted inside a flex hose on a car application one time. I bent the tube to match the curves and then cut it just short of the ends that slip over the barbs. It worked fine. I am thinking I will do same on this one unless someone else recommends a submersible hose.

I think they're talking about the pressure that the injectors see, not the pressure the regulator sees. On your 2001, the regulator has to be able to keep the rail pressure at 30 psi while delivering widely varying volumes. That's what they mean by "working pressure". IIUC rail pressure was upped to 60 psi in about 2003 or 2004, but they still use the same fuel pump, just a different pressure regulator.

Your anti-kink plan doesn't appear to address the need for 1/4 inch submersible fuel line hose. Anything less than SAE 30R10 fuel line will have a very limited lifespan when submerged in fuel, they say.

Bruiserg
08-01-2009, 06:10 PM
Bigmac,
Thank you for the reply. Sorry to maybe be a bit slow.... was the pump originally in my tank (from 2001) producing 60 PSI (in front of the regulator)? You note that in 2003 or 04 they upped the pressure and went to a different regulator. Unless someone says otherwise, I am thinking to go buy the Adance Auto pump (spec'd at 60 PSI) and put in my assembly. This means my 2001 regulator will be there. I know the reg. should then deliver the 30 PSI to the TBI system, but will the 60 PSI input be a problem?

On the fuel line, I am thinking I will take the original fuel line I took out (that has the kink), slip in a stainless steel thin wall tubing with appropriate minor bends to keep the original hose from kinking.. So, I will have the same hose, but have effectively an internal reinforcement to keep from kinking/collapsing at the bends. Maybe this is a bad idea?

Thank you again!

bigmac
08-01-2009, 10:56 PM
Again, I get back to the replacement module that's listed for your boat. That module is listed as

MODULE-FUEL MS 00-03 TBI/LTR/6.0L 60PSI 10.5 71-333S

I presume that the "10.5" refers to the diameter. But it's says it's a 60 PSI pump

TX.X-30 fan
08-01-2009, 11:55 PM
Pump I installed said 70/90 psi but who cares the regulator sends 58 to the rail right?

bigmac
08-01-2009, 11:59 PM
Pump I installed said 70/90 psi but who cares the regulator sends 58 to the rail right?

On yours, not on his.

TX.X-30 fan
08-02-2009, 12:02 AM
On yours, not on his.




If your saying i failed to completely read the thread you would be correct. :D

bigmac
08-02-2009, 02:14 AM
If your saying i failed to completely read the thread you would be correct. :D


Nah. In 2004 they changed the rail pressures to 60, whereas prior to that they had been lower....but the pump was always the same AFAIK.

james2009
10-04-2009, 09:21 AM
hello,
Firstly, thanks very much for the advice above, I too have a 2001 Prostar 209 with the Predator 310 Hp engine option and the fuel pump has died so I will be replacing it with an Airtex E2044.

It also seems that the fuel injectors are not functioning, can anyone advise where I can find (online) some suitable replacement fuel injectors, and which model number I need??

Many Thanks indeed.

bigmac
10-04-2009, 10:37 AM
How can you evaluate the performance of your fuel injectors if the fuel pump has failed? How do you know that the fuel pump has died? Did you check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail?

Simultaneous failure of the fuel pump and the fuel injectors would certainly make me suspicious of an electrical or ECM problem.

mtajpa
10-04-2009, 11:40 AM
Had the same problems when I first got my Maristar 330 LTR. Had been setting for years. Fuel pump was shot and had to be replaced. After the pump replacement would only run on four cylinders. I removed the injector connectors while the engine was running to determine which ones were bad. Removed the injectors took out the little screens and soaked them in some spray carb cleaner. Placed the injectors in a vise sprayed carb cleaner into the inlet side let it soak over night. Put compressed air to them next day while energized the injector with 12vdc from a battery. Did this a couple of times until the injectors had an even spray pattern. Reassembled the injectors with clean screens and it ran on all 8. This worked for me anyway. Once I got the boat on the water I had a hesitation on accel. Removed the other 4 injectors cleaned them and has been running strong since.

Make sure you have to have good fuel pressure first!
Good luck.

james2009
10-05-2009, 12:50 AM
Hi, unfortunately I am going on the advise of the local boat repair shop so I am not really sure how they reached this conclusion.
(I took it to the shop since the engine would not start - it was turning over strongly but not firing at all - sounded like there was no fuel getting through.)

The fuel injectors are heavily rusted around the contacts and the pins at the bottom are off centre - one so badly that it is just resting against the side. They also show evidence of being hit repeatadly with a hammer! (ie flats on the side)

Do you know how I could find out the part number of the injectors? (I live in Dubai and there is no MC authorised repair shop here, so I need to order the parts in the US and ship them over.)

Also you mentioned an electrical problem, any advice on how i start checking for this?

Many Thanks for your help - I really apprectiate it.
james

mtajpa
10-05-2009, 02:36 AM
Hi, unfortunately I am going on the advise of the local boat repair shop so I am not really sure how they reached this conclusion.
(I took it to the shop since the engine would not start - it was turning over strongly but not firing at all - sounded like there was no fuel getting through.)

The fuel injectors are heavily rusted around the contacts and the pins at the bottom are off centre - one so badly that it is just resting against the side. They also show evidence of being hit repeatadly with a hammer! (ie flats on the side)

Do you know how I could find out the part number of the injectors? (I live in Dubai and there is no MC authorised repair shop here, so I need to order the parts in the US and ship them over.)

Also you mentioned an electrical problem, any advice on how i start checking for this?

Many Thanks for your help - I really apprectiate it.
james


He is a link to Indmar's international dealers. They may be able to help. http://www.indmar.com/DealerLocator/WW.html

james2009
10-15-2009, 04:24 AM
Hello sorry to bother you all again.

I can seem to get in touch with Indmar, the link above doesnt work, and i havent managed to find any contacts that work. Does anyone know a contact for indmar?

Also I am still trying to find the part numbers for the fuel injectors (for the 2001 Prostar 209 Throttle body injection 5.7ltr). Does anyone know how to find out these parts numbers, I bought the indmar shop manual, so now i know how to refit them - but i can find the actual parts!!!!

Any help is much appreciated.

bigmac
10-15-2009, 06:12 AM
The contact numbers on their website under "contact us" don't work?

Indmar Products Co., Inc.
5400 Old Millington Road
Millington, TN 38053
Ph. (901) 353-9930
Fax: (901) 358-4292

Greyline1075
07-29-2012, 02:23 PM
My boat is a 2003 Mastercraft 197 Team Boat with the Vortec Predator 5.7L EFI TBI 350 cubic-inch GM 310 hp engine. The fuel module is the 71-332S. The engine has about 900 hours and while on a cruise going about 20 mph the engine stopped like someone turned off a switch. Kill switch was in place, spark looked good, oil pressure had been fine, and water temp was fine. I opened up the oil filler cap on the valve cover and could see the rocker arm moving so it looked like the timing chain was ok. I could hear the fuel pump running when the ignition was turned on like it is supposed to run for a couple seconds prior to cranking over the starter. Removing the cover on top of the carburetor showed that the injectors were not spraying fuel. Depressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail near the carburetor while the pump was running showed minimal fuel flow. Kind of like a water fountain where water comes up about 1/8 inch out of the opening. So it appeared that the issue was fuel source related and likely a faulty fuel pump. I had an auto air conditioning charging kit that had just the right fittings and gauge to adapt to the Schrader valve. The fuel line had zero pressure. Thanks to these previous threads on the subject I picked up the Airtex E2044 pump kit at Advance Auto. I was a little concerned about the 45 gph flow rate and 90-100 psi pressure rating which seemed like it could be excessive for this engine. The spec on the engine is 28-31 psi and 22.5 gph and I concluded that those numbers are at the fuel rail. I wasn’t sure that the regulator on top of the fuel module would be able to compensate correctly. However, the Airtex E2044 pump has been installed for a week with no issues and the pressure at the fuel rail stays at 28 psi. The pump does not generate any high pressures and the excess fuel is just circulated back into the tank normally through the return line. The ~$30 recommended submersible fuel line (SAE 30R10) was not readily available at any parts stores and I ended up using the 5/16” ID readily available (SAE J30R9) fuel injector hose also from Advance Auto. The 5/16” ID size seems about perfect. I used the standard type of stainless steel hose clamps that have the screw and band with slots that the screw tightens on. I found trying to re-use the hard plastic line in the fuel module was not worth the effort. It was really tough trying to get the hard plastic line to fit over the barbs even with heat, soap, stretching, etc., so I gave up. One other problem I had was the plastic fuel barb coming off the regulator was broken or became broken (may have been the original issue with the fuel pressure). I couldn’t find any other source for a new regulator in any threads. I was able to clear away the remaining broken plastic from the regulators inlet metal piping using a box cutter. I pulled the existing copper barb off the old faulty pump and removed the internal check valve by grinding away the swage on the end. It just so happened that the hole in the copper barb was just about the same size as the OD of the metal pipe leading into the regulator. With a little drilling with a standard size drill and honing using some sand paper I was able to press tap the copper barb onto the regulator pipe using several gentle taps with a hammer. Kind of lucky how that all worked out. Hope this all helps someone. Good Luck.

CantRepeat
07-29-2012, 09:25 PM
Holy wall of text!