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akabones
07-27-2009, 12:15 AM
i had a problem today my boat started and ran great then it bogged down and shut off. started back fine ran for a few seconds then bogged again. fuel pump is humming so i think it is working im thinking fuel filter maybe what do you think. 2000 prostar 195 114 hours never a problem before. predator 350

bigmac
07-27-2009, 08:03 AM
Those symptoms are certainly consistent with a dead fuel pump. It will still spin up at key on, so you won't hear anything any different, but if the pump is fried it won't pump any fuel even thought it's making all the right noises. Fuel filter is part of the equation only so far as its potential contribution to killing the pump -- It's located before the fuel pump, so if it is plugged enough to impair fuel flow, that lack of fuel flow prevents cooling of the pump.

I am assuming that your 2000 uses the same in-tank arrangement as Boofer describes in this thread (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25783&highlight=pump)...If so, I wouldn't pull the module just to change the filter. The module still has to be removed from the tank for that and that's the hardest part. Once the module is out, it's only about an extra 20 minutes and $90 to change the pump at the same time. If you just change the filter, you run the risk of reassembly only to find out that it still doesn't work and going back through the same process to change out the pump. That assumes that you're doing it yourself...if you're taking it to the dealer, it's going to be more like $600 to get the filter and pump changed since they don't change just the pump - they change out the entire module.

Your next diagnostic step should be to check the fuel pressure at key-on. If it's low or non-existent, I think it would be a mistake to assume it's the fuel filter. It's almost certainly the pump.

TX.X-30 fan
07-27-2009, 12:26 PM
Save this to a doc file and no need to retype. This is the answer, save yourself a grand and follow boofers great thread.







Those symptoms are certainly consistent with a dead fuel pump. It will still spin up at key on, so you won't hear anything any different, but if the pump is fried it won't pump any fuel even thought it's making all the right noises. Fuel filter is part of the equation only so far as its potential contribution to killing the pump -- It's located before the fuel pump, so if it is plugged enough to impair fuel flow, that lack of fuel flow prevents cooling of the pump.

I am assuming that your 2000 uses the same in-tank arrangement as Boofer describes in this thread (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25783&highlight=pump)...If so, I wouldn't pull the module just to change the filter. The module still has to be removed from the tank for that and that's the hardest part. Once the module is out, it's only about an extra 20 minutes and $90 to change the pump at the same time. If you just change the filter, you run the risk of reassembly only to find out that it still doesn't work and going back through the same process to change out the pump. That assumes that you're doing it yourself...if you're taking it to the dealer, it's going to be more like $600 to get the filter and pump changed since they don't change just the pump - they change out the entire module.

Your next diagnostic step should be to check the fuel pressure at key-on. If it's low or non-existent, I think it would be a mistake to assume it's the fuel filter. It's almost certainly the pump.

akabones
07-29-2009, 12:04 PM
sorry about the lond stretch before reply thanks so much for the help. im going to change filter and pum. just worried about aftermarket pump (acdelco ep356)

bigmac
07-29-2009, 12:07 PM
sorry about the lond stretch before reply thanks so much for the help. im going to change filter and pum. just worried about aftermarket pump (acdelco ep356)

Likely a far more reliable pump than the Carter that came with it as OEM.

akabones
08-03-2009, 11:42 AM
where can i get fuel line like the one in my module or am i going to have to replace it with something else, also is regular fuel line ok to be in fuel (outside of line) i would like to have the same hard plastic linelike in the original set-up but dont know where to get it

bigmac
08-03-2009, 12:35 PM
where can i get fuel line like the one in my module or am i going to have to replace it with something else, also is regular fuel line ok to be in fuel (outside of line) i would like to have the same hard plastic linelike in the original set-up but dont know where to get it

Yeh, that's been the problem. There is no source that any of us can find for fuel line that is suitable for being submerged in gasoline. Regular fuel line will disintegrate. It has to meet SAE 30R10. The only sources of that appear to be Delco and Gates, neither of which make it in 1/4 inch size...that's a problem because the barb on the fuel pump regulator is 1/4 inch, and if you use 5/16, it will pop off under pressure.

Only solution appears to be re-using the fuel line that is alreadly on the pump.

boofer
08-03-2009, 12:53 PM
I agree that the symptoms that you are experiencing are indicative of a failing fuel pump. I do not believe that it is the filter.

As far as the fuel lines to the pump, they are using a different type on the newer modules. They are a sort of corrugated clear line. But, bigmac is correct about the type of line needed inside a fuel tank. I want to say that you cannot reuse the clamps. Am I correct? If so, you need to find the correct size clamps.

Now, MC says that the replacement modules are using a "newer" style pump. In my thread I caution using a non verified replacement pump only.

In any case, use new gaskets and bolts. The bolts have a built-in gasket.

bigmac
08-03-2009, 01:06 PM
I agree that the symptoms that you are experiencing are indicative of a failing fuel pump. I do not believe that it is the filter.

As far as the fuel lines to the pump, they are using a different type on the newer modules. They are a sort of corrugated clear line. But, bigmac is correct about the type of line needed inside a fuel tank. I want to say that you cannot reuse the clamps. Am I correct? If so, you need to find the correct size clamps.

Now, MC says that the replacement modules are using a "newer" style pump. In my thread I caution using a non verified replacement pump only.

In any case, use new gaskets and bolts. The bolts have a built-in gasket.

More confusion...in the 2007 TT boats, they used a Moeller Millenium setup, which was actually TWO fuel pumps in the module instead of one. I'm trying to figure out if that fuel pump arrangement then made it into the entire 2008 lineup. If they did, apparently they aren't retrofittable to older boats because the new module that YOU recently ordered only had one pump in it.

MC says that these new pumps are a "newer" style. I don't know if that means the twin pump setup, or just a more reliable version of the single pump they were using.

I'd love to find a source of that corrugated fuel line tubing - I note that that is commonly used in automobile in-tank pumps too. I emailed Airtex about it, they told me they couldn't help and I should contact Gates.

Edit:

The picture on the left is a burst hose that sk8salomon had on his 2007 Tournament Team. I think he had that blow out twice. Never did hear why.

The picture on the right is an Airtex OEM module. They don't sell them aftermarket. Wouldn't it be cool if they made one that would fit in place of the one that comes in our boats? What is it...12 bolts in a 10.5 inch diameter opening? I note that they are using the same Delphi electrical connection that MC uses.

http://mccollister.info/fuelline.jpg http://mccollister.info/airtexmodule.jpg