PDA

View Full Version : '01 PS 190: Drive Shaft Packing / Steering Cable Help


bridomine99
07-20-2009, 12:32 PM
Guys, I did some searching and was wondering if you could give me the quick run down on these two issues.

I'm confident my steering cable needs to be replace as it is getting pretty tough to steer. I have tried greasing it and it doesn't due the trick. At this point you need both hands on the wheel to make any hard turns. The dealer wanted $450 to put a new one in (parts and labor) so I think I will be doing this one myself.

I am also taking in quite a bit of water. Tonight I'm going to drop it in the lake without the engine cover and rear floor plate to verify where it is coming in, my guess is the prop seal / packing needs work. The dealer roughly quoted this one at 180 for the parts and 450 to do the work with an alignment. If it is indeed coming through the shaft seals can a person do this themselves in a standard garage without specialty equipment. I am hesitant to put the steering cable in and not fix the leak because i don't want to wreck my new cable. However, at the same time $1100 at the dealer is not an option and I need to have it ready to go Thursday afternoon which gives me 3 nights.

To give you an idea my bilge pump is coming on about every 45 min and runs for about 5-10 seconds. Seems like it is pumping quite a bit of water. The boat has 450hrs on it.

Thanks

flipper
07-20-2009, 12:40 PM
Steering cable is easy. Tie something small and strong (I used a electrical fish tape) to the steering wheel of the old one, and pull it out the back, tie the new one to the fish tape and pull it in.

The drive shaft may just need the packing nut tightened. Easy job

bridomine99
07-20-2009, 12:47 PM
Steering cable is easy. Tie something small and strong (I used a electrical fish tape) to the steering wheel of the old one, and pull it out the back, tie the new one to the fish tape and pull it in.

The drive shaft may just need the packing nut tightened. Easy job

Thanks...

Anywhere I can get some info on how to do the nut? There are threads all over, but I understand there are a few different types and I don't have much room for error with the short amount of time available. Also, how do you determine whether it needs to be tightened, how tight it should be, or when it is worn out and needs to be replaced. Most of the threads link to easttx's website, but the links seem to be all dead

flipper
07-20-2009, 12:49 PM
Take a pic and we can point out what you need to do easier

ttu
07-20-2009, 12:53 PM
here is a some very good instructions on replacing the packing. sorry it also includes how to do the alignment.

bridomine99
07-20-2009, 12:56 PM
here is a some very good instructions on replacing the packing. sorry it also includes how to do the alignment.

That doesn't sound bad at all; however the dealer made it sound like there were rubber seals in mine and you had to pull the shaft out to do it??

boyd
07-20-2009, 01:38 PM
When you order your packing you can either get the waxed rope packing or the "rubber" gortex packing. I bet that is the rubber he was talking about.
I just did mine last week. I have a 1992 205. If you need help on the packing call me.
It's pretty easy. PM me and I'll give you my #.

You will probably never have to realign you engine again, if it really needs it. If it was mine and I had lots of company coming. I'd take it to the dealer. This is not something you want to do wrong. If you had plenty of time for trial and error then I'd try it myself. It all comes down to time vs. money. Which one do you have the most of ?
Good luck.

FrankSchwab
07-20-2009, 01:50 PM
Frankly, if your bilge pump is running for 10 seconds every 45 minutes, just fuhgeddaboudit and schedule a packing adjustment/engine alignment over the winter. You really don't have much of a problem.

If you really want to dig into the water problem....
You're on the right track - drop the boat in the water and see where it's coming from. Could be the rudder, could be the driveshaft packing, could be around the Exhaust penetrations through the hull, could be a bad water pump/hose/muffler. If it's the packing, simply tighten the packing on your short schedule; there's probably no real reason to dig into the engine alignment right now, or to replace the packing. Make sure there's water dripping through the packing, run it for 30 minutes or so, and tighten, making sure there's still water dripping through the packing. BTW, I used the Gore-Tex on mine, and have no complaints.

Do the steering cable.

bridomine99
07-20-2009, 01:55 PM
Thanks for all of the info. I wish there was more info available on our boats from a parts perspective. With snowmobiles/jetskis many of the dealers have full exploded drawings of the machines online so you can look up all of the parts yourself and with one call the dealer will have what you need sitting on the bench for you to come and pick it up.

Anybody have any additional info on what packing would be in my '01? Based on the instructions provided above it doesn't sound the like the drive shaft would need to come out? If this is the case, I'm assuming they are suggesting the alignment as a PM that should be done at the same time, but possibly not necessary?

ttu
07-20-2009, 02:11 PM
http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2013

if yours is like this, then i can see why the repair would be so high.

however its the one that is listed in the link i posted, no the shaft does not need to be removed and the packing rope is like $10.00

Chicago190
07-20-2009, 02:19 PM
I believe at some point MasterCraft switched from the standard stuffing box and packing to a dripless seal. Without seeing a picture I can't say which your boat has, but someone with a 2001 may know.

If it is the stuffing box and packing it is very easy to tighten on a direct drive boat. Remove the rear floor section, loosen the lock nut, and then tighten the stuffing box nut until you get 1 drip ever 5-10 seconds. Tighten the lock nut and you're done. You can repack it in the off season. While the floor is out I would grease the rudder port.

If you don't have any vibration I wouldn't be too concerned about the alignment.

Edit: ttu posted the OJ dripless seal MasterCraft switched to.

bridomine99
07-20-2009, 02:47 PM
Thanks again...

Mine is not the dripless seal and I'm guessing the number the dealer gave me was to upgrade to this setup. $180 for parts and $450 for install sounds extreemly high if it were the rope or "rubber" type.

I'm going to pick up the steering cable, grab the wrenches for the seal, and head to the lake tonight. If it is just a matter of snugging it up, I'll probably verify that is the source of the leak and try to snug it up right at the boat landing, so I can test it quick while it is appart.

TMCNo1
07-20-2009, 02:47 PM
Thanks...

Anywhere I can get some info on how to do the nut? There are threads all over, but I understand there are a few different types and I don't have much room for error with the short amount of time available. Also, how do you determine whether it needs to be tightened, how tight it should be, or when it is worn out and needs to be replaced. Most of the threads link to easttx's website, but the links seem to be all dead
General discussion FAQ, http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=5427
1)http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=159060&postcount=31
2)http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=503319&postcount=52

bridomine99
07-20-2009, 11:46 PM
Steering cable is in and it works like a dream. I got the replacement shaft packing for $4.50 and will drop it in the water tomorrow to make sure that is the source and take care of the leak. Apparently, my parts guy and I were not on the same page when he said $180 for parts.

Thanks for all of the help guys, we'll be in good shape for the weekend.