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Shane21
07-17-2009, 06:01 PM
Need Help!!!...I have a 91 Maristar 240SC and I have a tremendous amount of trouble getting mine on/off the trailer. If I back down in the water far enough to float her off, the bow hits on the front stops (see smudge marks in pic). It will also often tear up the rub rail on the front b/c of the way it hits. If I don't back it down far enough, I have to pull it off the trailer with the motor (which in turn tears up my trailer bumpers on the poles b/c it pulls to one side). Does anyone else have this problem as well? There doesn't seem to be a perfect spot to get it off the trailer. It almost seems like the boards are too low, but they were replaced exactly like it was before (see other pic). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hoosier Bob
07-17-2009, 06:19 PM
How steep is the ramp you regularly put in on?:confused:

Skipper
07-17-2009, 11:03 PM
I remember a similar thread last year. A few people recommended using a spray called liquid rollers or something like that. Apparently it made the bunks very slippery which helped some folks. I have used a lot of ramps, seems like each one is different.

If the ramp is very steep and the trailer goes too far into the water the very tip of the bow may strike the front roller or boat buddy of the trailer. If the ramp is not steep enough you have to back deeper into the water to get enough lift off the boat.

Really gonna have to experiment with how far back to put the trailer and always try to match it.

Hoosier Bob
07-17-2009, 11:09 PM
Also assuming a steep ramp back in fairly deep then pull forward to where ever you have the best luck clearing the buddy! This lifts the boat and soaks the rails. The rails will be wet and you should be able to slide off easier without being so deep. Same thing when you return. Soak that trailer then pull up to where ever your mark is (waterline on trailer) then the rails are nice and wet. Some ramps will not let you power and you have to winch. If your ramp is ok for power loading then you should be fine.:D

PS Awesome ride and freakin' big too!

BriEOD
07-17-2009, 11:13 PM
On level ground is your trailer level with your tow vehicle? If not, consider getting a new hitch coupler or making adjustments. This certainly can have an effect.

CantRepeat
07-18-2009, 06:59 AM
On level ground is your trailer level with your tow vehicle? If not, consider getting a new hitch coupler or making adjustments. This certainly can have an effect.

This is a great tip. If you have a saggy rear end on your tow vehicle it can make matters worse. Always wet the bunks before you load up by backing down far enough to get them all wet, then pull up to a point that you can get about 2/3s up the way up on the trailer before you make contact with the bunks. You want the bow of the boat to start lifting up as you move forward so that you clear the boat buddy.

bigmac
07-18-2009, 08:47 AM
Badly designed trailers is kind of a tradition at MasterCraft. It seems that the angle of the boat ramp you use is shallower than MasterCraft "engineers" were capable of imagining.

I agree that you need to make sure the trailer is absolutely level when attached to your vehicle, but if it is, you can't adjust the height of your drop hitch any more. Your solutions from there IMHO are lower your bow-stop block a little, and maybe to readjust the angle of your bunks but putting some washers under the front of each

ggroller
07-18-2009, 08:55 AM
I remember a similar thread last year. A few people recommended using a spray called liquid rollers or something like that. Apparently it made the bunks very slippery which helped some folks. I have used a lot of ramps, seems like each one is different.


pledge works really well.

bigmac
07-18-2009, 09:03 AM
Liquid Rollers seems to work pretty well, but I'd be careful about what I put on my trailer bunks. Your boat sits on those bunks a large percentage of the time, and gelcoat is porous, can be damaged by whatever you spray on there.

ttu
07-18-2009, 09:28 AM
Liquid Rollers seems to work pretty well, but I'd be careful about what I put on my trailer bunks. Your boat sits on those bunks a large percentage of the time, and gelcoat is porous, can be damaged by whatever you spray on there.

been there and did that when i had my supra. blistered the hull where it sat on the bunkers:mad:

bigmac
07-18-2009, 10:47 AM
That comes up fairly often, actually...

http://mccollister.info/blisters2.jpg

http://mccollister.info/blisters1.jpg

TMCNo1
07-18-2009, 10:54 AM
Don't use spray silicone or ArmorAll, it will blister the gelcoat over time. I recommend a light spraying of Meguiar's Quick Wax once/twice a year. No blisters in 20 years on our '89.
49447

Hoosier Bob
07-18-2009, 01:12 PM
I would have thought the ramp was deep. This causes the stern to rise lowering the bow?:confused:I do not get rubs on shallow ramps? Only when I go to a steep launch did I rub. I just wet then pull up a bit. Problem solved. Deep in shallow and shallow in deep!

Badly designed trailers is kind of a tradition at MasterCraft. It seems that the angle of the boat ramp you use is shallower than MasterCraft "engineers" were capable of imagining.

I agree that you need to make sure the trailer is absolutely level when attached to your vehicle, but if it is, you can't adjust the height of your drop hitch any more. Your solutions from there IMHO are lower your bow-stop block a little, and maybe to readjust the angle of your bunks but putting some washers under the front of each

Matt L.
07-18-2009, 09:09 PM
As a fellow 240SC owner I concur. A steep ramp is usually to blame. My trailer appears to be the same configuration. My only advice is to go shallow initially and pull it just clear of the bow stop then back the trailer deeper to free it from the bunks. Short of a major change in trailer geometry I don't see much else you can do. Perhaps you can find a Poly bow stop that won't leave marks.

2 weeks ago at Lake Mead the Echo Bay ramp was very shallow and flat. Front tires of the truck were in the water and the exhaust was still above the surface. Went on and off easier than ever.

Hoosier Bob
07-19-2009, 12:06 PM
This reminds me of a way old complaint on here regarding the Boat Buddy. Guys on here were having the Boat Buddy leave marks on the hull so they glued marine carpet to the BB! They said this worked. No reason why the same could not be done with the bow stop. Wrap that it marine carpet, glue and your problem may be fixed!;)As a fellow 240SC owner I concur. A steep ramp is usually to blame. My trailer appears to be the same configuration. My only advice is to go shallow initially and pull it just clear of the bow stop then back the trailer deeper to free it from the bunks. Short of a major change in trailer geometry I don't see much else you can do. Perhaps you can find a Poly bow stop that won't leave marks.

2 weeks ago at Lake Mead the Echo Bay ramp was very shallow and flat. Front tires of the truck were in the water and the exhaust was still above the surface. Went on and off easier than ever.

Shane21
07-20-2009, 06:06 PM
Wow. That's quite a response. I've thought about the ramp being steep too, but it doesn't seem overly steep compared to others I've seen. Also, the problem with carpeting the bow stop or spraying it is that the rub rail on the nose actually hits it and flips it up each time it happens. I've actaully pulled the rub rail out of the 1st couple of screws. I'll definitely try wetting the boards first. My biggest problem is I've tried deep, shallow, middle, everywhere and I just can't find the sweet spot. It seems that the only way to get it to miss the bow stop is to power it off shallow. Hopefully wetting the boards will make that easier.

Matt L.
07-21-2009, 11:02 AM
Wow. That's quite a response. I've thought about the ramp being steep too, but it doesn't seem overly steep compared to others I've seen. Also, the problem with carpeting the bow stop or spraying it is that the rub rail on the nose actually hits it and flips it up each time it happens. I've actaully pulled the rub rail out of the 1st couple of screws. I'll definitely try wetting the boards first. My biggest problem is I've tried deep, shallow, middle, everywhere and I just can't find the sweet spot. It seems that the only way to get it to miss the bow stop is to power it off shallow. Hopefully wetting the boards will make that easier.

If you are hitting the bow stop when loading the trailer is too deep. On a 240 wet the bunks and pull it out until the tops of the fenders are peaking out ot the water 1-2 inches. You should feel it settle onto the bunks then have to push it up the bunks to the stop. If you aren't already on the bunks the nose will hit low every time. I'll be at the lake this week and will pay closer attention to the bow stop. I do have a boat buddy, but that didn't change the configuration of the bow stop, it is still in the asme place.

Good luck,

Matt

atlfootr
07-21-2009, 11:12 AM
As a fellow 240SC owner I concur.
Perhaps you can find a Poly bow stop that won't leave marks.

All the above is great sounding advice, I'll agree w/ Matt L.
It may help reduce the smudge mark issue on your front bow.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/00004098.jpg

Shane21
07-22-2009, 12:47 PM
I actually don't let it hit anymore b/c I do pull further up to keep it from hitting. Only problem is then I have to slam it off with the motor and it pulls to one side and tears up my guide post bumpers. I've found that the fenders about 1/2 way are the spot to do that. I did also buy one of those orange stops to get rid of the smudge, but the rub rail will still hit it and fold up. It stopped the smudges but the rub rail still folds up when I back down too far. I would love to be able to just float the boat off without it hitting, but it doesn't look like that is going to happen. What about having that bow stop lower on the boat? Has anyone tried modifying it?

Hollywood
07-22-2009, 01:15 PM
You can't lower it because they your bow EYE will snag it. This is one of the many reasons I like the "crash pad" type bow stops. The angle of the ramp doesn't matter this way.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/kfleisch/Correct%20Craft/Image.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/kfleisch/Correct%20Craft/aa.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/kfleisch/Correct%20Craft/NE08_511.jpg

Shane21
07-23-2009, 03:10 PM
You think MC can retrofit my trailer??? Or maybe I should look at building one myself...

tph
07-24-2009, 01:14 AM
Master Lock makes a receiver with a ball mount that you can raise and lower with the tow vehicle attached to the trailer. I lower the front of the trailer for launch and retrieval. It makes a big difference. Also, you can use a cordless drill with a 3/8 inch socket adapter to automate the process.


Need Help!!!...I have a 91 Maristar 240SC and I have a tremendous amount of trouble getting mine on/off the trailer. If I back down in the water far enough to float her off, the bow hits on the front stops (see smudge marks in pic). It will also often tear up the rub rail on the front b/c of the way it hits. If I don't back it down far enough, I have to pull it off the trailer with the motor (which in turn tears up my trailer bumpers on the poles b/c it pulls to one side). Does anyone else have this problem as well? There doesn't seem to be a perfect spot to get it off the trailer. It almost seems like the boards are too low, but they were replaced exactly like it was before (see other pic). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

tph
07-24-2009, 01:28 AM
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=76605&pdesc=Master_Lock_One_Tool_Torque_Adjustable_Heigh t_Ball_Mount&cname=Trailer-Hitch-Accessories&aID=603L&merchID=1009&r=view

tph
07-24-2009, 01:30 AM
Master Lock makes a receiver with a ball mount that you can raise and lower with the tow vehicle attached to the trailer. I lower the front of the trailer for launch and retrieval. It makes a big difference. Also, you can use a cordless drill with a 3/8 inch socket adapter to automate the process.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=76605&pdesc=Master_Lock_One_Tool_Torque_Adjustable_Heigh t_Ball_Mount&cname=Trailer-Hitch-Accessories&aID=603L&merchID=1009&r=view

Shane21
07-27-2009, 05:59 PM
That's nice. You can't adjust it with the trailer on can you?

TX.X-30 fan
07-27-2009, 06:45 PM
This is the most fun you will have with your MC trailer. :D


I like the different bow stop options, has anyone done this.



49838

thatsmrmastercraft
07-27-2009, 07:10 PM
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=76605&pdesc=Master_Lock_One_Tool_Torque_Adjustable_Heigh t_Ball_Mount&cname=Trailer-Hitch-Accessories&aID=603L&merchID=1009&r=view

That is really slick. Every time I put my boat in the driveway I have to remove the ball and flip the draw bar over so my prop guard doesn't drag. I will definitely be getting one of those!!!