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View Full Version : Gelcoat before & after, as good as it gets?


Finnsdad
07-14-2009, 10:43 PM
I started working on the gelcoat today. The difference is huge, but not quite what I was hoping for. Maybe a vibrant bright red is too much to hope for on an 18 year old boat. This is what I did:

wet sand 1000 grit
wash
wet sand 1500 grit
wash
meguiars # 49 heavy oxidation remover, wool pad
wash
meguiars # 44 color restorer, foam pad
wash
meguiars # 56 pure carnuba wax, by hand

Should I have started with a more aggressive sand paper? Is it possible that no matter what I do I won't be able to get rid of the pink?

On a side note, a local vinyl graphics shop is making new brendella decals, if you know anyone that needs them just pm me.

sand2snow22
07-15-2009, 03:41 AM
Man, you need a buffer. Best $60 I've spent on the boat (local car parts store). I would take the hardware off and hit that with 3M rubbing compound with a wool pad for awhile, followed by 3M Finesse It II wool pad, followed by Meguiars Premium Marine wax with a soft pad. I don't mess with wet sanding. More power to you. Good luck. Looks pretty good so far.

stalefish
07-15-2009, 09:23 AM
I'll second what sand2snow22 said. Get a buffer, a rotary one, that pink will come right off.

rhsprostar
07-15-2009, 09:27 AM
Looks pretty good from here....

JohnE
07-15-2009, 09:36 AM
Have you checked out Shep's restoration thread? Some good info there.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=12550&highlight=restoration

Finnsdad
07-15-2009, 10:08 AM
A Milwaukee rotary buffer was used for compound and polish.

Hollywood
07-15-2009, 10:56 AM
You definitely did not go course enough on the paper. Most heavy cut compounds remove 1000 grit scratches so the 1500 was a wasted effort. It looks fairly good but I've seen guys go down to 320 to get that showroom finish bach. I would say atleast go down to 600 for the color if you aren't trying to get any scratches out. Be careful, I'm not familiar with Brendella's gelcoat. I've seen many Correct Crafts down to 320 but they have notoriously thick gel.

85S&S_Keuka
07-15-2009, 02:03 PM
I did my Blue 85 S&S a few years ago, went down to 400 and you could still see some speckling in the gel and it's not as dark as it once was.

400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, heavy-cut compound, fine-cut compound, and finally micropolish

Finnsdad
07-15-2009, 06:20 PM
Well, I started on the drivers side today using 600 grit as a first step. Could really tell more was being cut. I think the results will be much better, will post pics when done.

SunCoast 83
07-15-2009, 09:48 PM
Lookin good man!...those Brendella's are fun boats too!

Craig
07-15-2009, 10:03 PM
Just did my 94; went 600, 800, heavy cut, fine cut, micro-polish, two coats of wax. Aside from some really deep gouges it looks really good.

I second the comment that you did not need the 1500. I did some spots with 1000 and realized that I didn't even need that and stopped with 800.

I documented my trials here:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29296


http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww174/h2oski1326/IMG_1517Medium.jpg

sand2snow22
07-16-2009, 06:23 PM
Besides the obvious, fill a brother in on how to wet sand!

Finnsdad
07-16-2009, 07:44 PM
The meguiars products are just not giving me the results I am looking for. The #49 does not have enough cutting power to remove the 1500 grit sanding marks. I should have listened to what everyone else on here said and just got the 3M products to start with. Found a place in town that sells 3M, $120 on compunds and pads, back to the garage I go.

Craig
07-16-2009, 08:03 PM
Besides the obvious, fill a brother in on how to wet sand!

Here is what I did, maybe there are better procedures but I am pleased with how my boat turned out.

Fill a bucket with warm soapy water, soak your sandpaper for a good hour. Then simply sand away, keep the surface nice and wet while you are working it. For large flatter areas I used a small piece of wood to keep everything flat then worked the small areas with my fingers. It is very easy to add waves if you just use your fingers on everything.

I rinsed everything well after each grit. You should have smooth matte finish when you are all done.

brookview
07-17-2009, 07:02 PM
Have had great success with polarshine m25 Its cuts better than any thing i ever used http://www.mirka.com/accessories_polishingcompounds_marine

TMCNo1
07-17-2009, 08:34 PM
It's also best, if sanding wet or dry, to use a sanding block to prevent finger streaks in sanding parallel to the fingers, if you don't always move the sandpaper perpendicular to the fingers and it also levels high spots in the finish,
49437
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000DD5W7/dvdhills-20

TheSpleen
07-18-2009, 10:53 AM
On a side note, a local vinyl graphics shop is making new brendella decals, if you know anyone that needs them just pm me.


Could you send me an e-mail or PM with some info about the decals you're having made?
Thanks,
Jared

Finnsdad
07-19-2009, 08:27 PM
I completed the sanding/buffing. While it does look better, it is not what I was hoping for. Here are some after pics. You can still see where the decals were and the oxidation. I used the following products:

Wet sand 600 and 1000 grit, 3M paper
Buffed 2 times with 3M supercut compound and 3M wool pad at 1750 RPM on Milwaukee buffer
Polished with 3M Finesse-It and 3M foam pad
Waxed with Meguiars pure carnuba wax

I don't know what else I can do. New decals go on tomorrow.

TMCNo1
07-19-2009, 08:48 PM
I completed the sanding/buffing. While it does look better, it is not what I was hoping for. Here are some after pics. You can still see where the decals were and the oxidation. I used the floowing products:

Wet sand 600 and 1000 grit, 3M paper
Buffed 2 times with 3M supercut compound and 3M wool pad at 1750 RPM on Milwaukee buffer
Polished with 3M Finesse-It and 3M foam pad
Waxed with Meguiars pure carnuba wax

I don't know what else I can do. New decals go on tomorrow.

Be sure to remove the wax in the area of the decals so they will stick, then rewax afterwards around the decals.

Finnsdad
07-20-2009, 10:51 PM
Here is a before/after pic of the same area with the new decals:

wheelerd
07-21-2009, 02:35 AM
Looks dandy!
Just curious, what did you take to your local vinyl shop for a pattern? A picture? A tracing of the original? Or the actual original decals?

Finnsdad
07-21-2009, 09:43 AM
They took digital pics and measured the size. The decals are close to perfect, off by 1/8" in some areas. He said it was hard to get size exact due to the curve if the hull.

sand2snow22
07-21-2009, 10:13 AM
I would like to see it in person, but that looks really good from the pictures. Lots of work. How's your back? Congrats!

83SuperSlot
05-03-2010, 03:19 PM
What do you guys think about using a power sander?

Finnsdad
05-03-2010, 04:13 PM
I wouldn't use a power sander, it's something done by feel. When sanding you will feel the surface get smoother, and I think a power sander would go to fast and you would burn through the gel.

Craig
05-03-2010, 07:21 PM
I agree with Finnsdad.

It doesn't take a lot of effort and would be real easy to sand right through the gelcoat.

83SuperSlot
05-03-2010, 07:31 PM
I am in the middle of this process and I guess I don't know how much to sand. I thought I should sand until the gel coat that was under the decals is the same color as the Hull... can anyone help with this?

Craig
05-03-2010, 08:30 PM
That is what I did. If there is a slight difference after sanding when you go over it with the coarse buffing compound some of that will go away.

Really, you are sanding the hull to match what was under the decals.

Be patient, use plenty of soapy water.

83SuperSlot
05-03-2010, 08:57 PM
I started today with 600 grit and it took me an hour to do half of one side of the boat.... does that sound right? It sounds like my arms are going to be dead after this job....

Craig
05-03-2010, 11:53 PM
I spent probably 12 hours on a Saturday doing two sanding steps (600 and 800, I think), three rounds with a buffer (coarse, light, and polish) and a coat of wax. I put a second coat of wax on the next day.

If you figure each round with the buffer took an hour+ and the same with the wax that leaves about between 3-4 hours for each sanding coat, give or take.

That really puts me in the same ballpark as you so it sounds reasonable.

I was nice and sore the next day but had a pretty boat to look at so it was a good sore.

83SuperSlot
05-04-2010, 01:19 AM
Thanks! I appreciate all of your help. ...

83SuperSlot
05-04-2010, 03:07 PM
I worked on it for a couple more hours today and I realized that I have not changed the paper enough. I started putting new paper on every three feet or so and it made a huge difference! I will probably be able to finish up one side, as far as sanding, with another couple of hours. When it is wet it looks almost showroom condition... I'm getting really excited! I'll post pics when I finish sanding this side...