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ski shark
07-11-2009, 09:43 PM
Oh My Gosh! I am so pissed! I can't get my 1985 stars and stripes to get on the trailer easily!

If the landing is too steep, it takes full throttle to get it on. Plus, it always takes 2 people to land this thing.

Our ski team uses newer inboards and we have no problem getting those boats on the trailers with one person.

The "V" padding in the front of the trailer seems to be the start of the problem putting scratches on the boat...then it's hooking that crazy "bar" up to the front eye...Uggg!

CAN ANYONE HELP ME SO I QUIT HURTING MY BOAT!?

Thank you Thank you Thank you!

Cloaked
07-11-2009, 11:54 PM
Oh My Gosh! I am so pissed! I can't get my 1985 stars and stripes to get on the trailer easily!

If the landing is too steep, it takes full throttle to get it on. Plus, it always takes 2 people to land this thing.

Our ski team uses newer inboards and we have no problem getting those boats on the trailers with one person.

The "V" padding in the front of the trailer seems to be the start of the problem putting scratches on the boat...then it's hooking that crazy "bar" up to the front eye...Uggg!

CAN ANYONE HELP ME SO I QUIT HURTING MY BOAT!?

Thank you Thank you Thank you!It will load easily. There is a sweet spot on the depth of which to drop the trailer in the water. If I had to guess, I'd say you are dropping it in too deep for both in and out.

Drop it in to about 3/4 - 7/8 of the way up on the fenders. Don't try to float it off, but drive it off. Once the bow hook clears the v-pad, then have the driver to drop it in a bit deeper to ease the drive-off. If there isn't a driver of the vehicle. drive it on off completely.

Getting it back on is about the same depth. Drive the boat up to the trailer and allow the nose of the boat to settle down up against the bunks. Then with a slight throttle, advance the boat while straightening it out and then accelerate right on up on the trailer. When I am by myself (most of the time) I over-shoot the v-pad by a few inches and keep a slight throttle on the boat to hold it there until I can go over the windshield, reach down and pull the bar up, wiggle the front a bit and the boat will crawl back down enough to slide the bar over the eye-hook. Done deal. Go back, release the throttle and shut her down.

Depth of the trailer is the ticket. You'll find the sweet spot with some patience. Drive off and drive on. Don't try and float the boat (in either direction). Just deep enough to get the boat off the bunks.


PS: Upon loading out, I usually drop the trailer deep enough to wet the bunks then pull it back out to the proper depth for loading the boat.

justinglow
07-12-2009, 12:16 AM
Exactly what Cloaked said. I put mine it to where I can see the tops of the fenders. To deep and it's a real pain. Once you find the sweet spot it's easy.

Chicago190
07-12-2009, 12:29 AM
Steep ramps are a problem for 1 person because the boat will want to slide back down unless you have the trailer shallow enough to hold the boat against the bunks, but then you will really need to power it up the trailer. I've been on boats where you had to leave the boat in gear to hook the front up, but I never liked doing that (Boat Buddy solves the problem).

Cloaked
07-12-2009, 12:33 AM
Steep ramps are a problem for 1 person because the boat will want to slide back down unless you have the trailer shallow enough to hold the boat against the bunks, but then you will really need to power it up the trailer. I've been on boats where you had to leave the boat in gear to hook the front up, but I never liked doing that (Boat Buddy solves the problem).

........I over-shoot the v-pad by a few inches and keep a slight throttle on the boat to hold it there until I can go over the windshield, reach down and pull the bar up, wiggle the front a bit and the boat will crawl back down enough to slide the bar over the eye-hook. Done deal. Go back, release the throttle and shut her down.

You're working way too hard..... :D

There's another thread here somewhere about waxing the bunks for easy of off and on...

Covi
07-12-2009, 08:42 AM
I keep the top of my fenders 2-3" above the water line just like cloaked. I have had to drop it what I would say too deep in order to do a manual hand load under no power. Float the boat on. It works but, if any other ski boat owner saw they would most likley say what the heck are you doing. Hey what ever it takes to keep the boat perfect.

# 1 rule and do not break. ask for NO help from anyone who has never loaded or unloaed.

WilliM1940
07-13-2009, 12:41 AM
Sounds like you need to reconstruct and carpet your v-block, scratches will only come from staples buried in the carpeting in ad hoc repair attempts like my PO tried. I bury my fenders about an inch, may be ramp related, and hand winch on. Wax the crap out of the v-block and the forward most 5 feet of bunk and it will winch on like butter. I did get a decent Dunhill winch and heavy nylon strap. I put the bar in place off the ramp in the parking lot after retrieval, the winch holds coming off the ramp along with the friction from the unwaxed rear portion of the bunks. Mark your hull with a sharpie or paint a spot that will show as the hull rises in the v-block indicating proper positioning for the bar. Get a good winch, although I wrecked a couple of 2500 pounders before I waxed the forward bunks, now it doesn’t take much force at all. Once on level the winch can be detached and the bar put into position easily. I am still thinking of raising the winch from its standard position on the trailer to pull up into the v-block instead of down as the bow rises. But the wax seemed to fix everything.

Deanhamel
07-13-2009, 12:35 PM
How does one go about waxing a carpeted bunk?

TMCNo1
07-13-2009, 12:41 PM
How does one go about waxing a carpeted bunk?
Simple as this,
49236http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/products/protectant/classic_protectant

Jim@BAWS
07-13-2009, 12:51 PM
Let me give you a little help here !!!

REMOVE the OLD V blocks. Expecially if they are wood. They are a little
thicker than the NEW ones. The new ones are thinner and allow the boat
to travel farther foward thus making it easier to get the boat on the trailer all the way.

When loading make sure the trailer is balanced. Have less that 1 inch of the fenders above water. When you lauch the boat have the fenders just under the water JUST UNDER. do not
bury the trailer

If you are on a ramp that is very steep. A lower trailer hitch helps. That means when looking at the boat
on the trailer on level ground the front of the boat will be slightly lower than the back.. Loads easier

Spraying the bunks w/ wax will help. DO NOT back down a ramp w/ the front bar off
w/ waxed bunks. DO NOT..

Jim@BAWS

Jimmauburn
07-13-2009, 01:02 PM
Jim I still have the origional v blocks that came on my boat..... do you have the newer ones that come on the new trailers ?? I am in great need to either make some or order them from you. I have a pretty easy time loading and unloading my boat and I use 6 different ramps and the angle is different on all of them but THERE IS A SWEET SPOT for the old trailers. Take an hour or so and load and unload (on a noncrowded ramp) and play with depth and also use TMC's spray wax it makes a TON of difference.... Thanks Harold !!

TMCNo1
07-13-2009, 01:20 PM
Jim I still have the origional v blocks that came on my boat..... do you have the newer ones that come on the new trailers ?? I am in great need to either make some or order them from you. I have a pretty easy time loading and unloading my boat and I use 6 different ramps and the angle is different on all of them but THERE IS A SWEET SPOT for the old trailers. Take an hour or so and load and unload (on a noncrowded ramp) and play with depth and also use TMC's spray wax it makes a TON of difference.... Thanks Harold !!

Are your V blocks the plastic or carpet covered marine plywood?
If plastic or plywood, use 1"X6" treated wood, trimmed to 3/4" thick x 5" wide X 8" long, bevel the ends that touch in the V @ 45 Degrees, drill holes and elongate length ways to be able to adjust, countersink them for a bolt head and star washer to fit below the surface, insert the washers and bolts and cover with carpet then install. Using plywood will let the bolts crush the wood and the bolts will spin and finally pull through when you try to tighten as they work loose as the wood is crushed.
Picture is of one of 2 sets of plywood ones I got from MC and used as patterns for treated ones after the first set of plywood ones failed when the bolts pulled through, that was 12 years ago and they're still tight.
49237
49238

tph
07-13-2009, 02:34 PM
I launch at a ramp that gives me similar problems. Master lock has an adjustable ball mount that has made things a lot better. I adjust the ball height to the lowest setting to launch and retrieve the boat and raise it when towing. The best part is, you can adjust the height while the trailer is connected using a cordless drill and 3/8 in. drive adapter.



Oh My Gosh! I am so pissed! I can't get my 1985 stars and stripes to get on the trailer easily!



If the landing is too steep, it takes full throttle to get it on. Plus, it always takes 2 people to land this thing.

Our ski team uses newer inboards and we have no problem getting those boats on the trailers with one person.

The "V" padding in the front of the trailer seems to be the start of the problem putting scratches on the boat...then it's hooking that crazy "bar" up to the front eye...Uggg!

CAN ANYONE HELP ME SO I QUIT HURTING MY BOAT!?

Thank you Thank you Thank you!