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View Full Version : HELP! 1982 19' skier s&s 351/powerslot


actionrjackson24
07-06-2009, 03:38 PM
Help! My boat runs 45 minutes under a load then acts like it starves for fuel and cuts off. After sitting 30-40 minutes starts back up like nothing happened and runs for another 45 minutes then the same thing happens. I have changed ignition, plugs, wires, dis. cap, coil, resistor, cleaned out canister and replaced fuel filter, added a inline fuel filter, rebuilt the carb, new fuel line, cleaned check valve at the gas tank. I'm at witts end and have sunk a few bucks into it. It seems like fuel issues and then acts like electrical problems. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

wilbucd
07-06-2009, 04:30 PM
I would check the pickup tube in the gas tank. I just replaced the entire fuel system on my 85 S&S including rebuilding the carb but the new fuel pump would still not pull gas. Pulled the gas tank out and saw that the pick up tube that rests on the bottom of the tank was clogged as well as the check valve on top. Cleaned those up and now it runs perfect. Clean the rest of the gunk out of the tank while you are at it.

flipper
07-06-2009, 04:43 PM
Vapor lock?

454Prostar190
07-06-2009, 04:56 PM
Vapor lock?

My thoughts, also

actionrjackson24
07-07-2009, 09:41 AM
I will pull the pick-up tube out and check it, thanks. It is a new tank that hasn't had a whole tank ran through it yet. Vapor lock is something I have not thought about. Any suggestions on trouble shooting vapor lock?

Bellinghamster
07-07-2009, 09:54 AM
Before you go much further you should confirm whether it's electrical of fuel related.

Run it till it dies, then pull the flame arrestor off the carb. Open the throttle while looking down the carb barrels and confirm that the accelerator pump squirts a stead stream of fuel. If no fuel, then chase that back to the tank.

Check for spark. If no spark, I suspect a intermittantly shorting coil (they tend to short when hot, then work again once cooled off).

If, while cranking, fuel is dumping down the throats then your carb is overheated, boiling fuel in the float bowls causing the floats to sink and overfill the bowls.

Jim@BAWS
07-07-2009, 10:02 AM
Vapor lock?

100% TOTAL AGREEMENT

Jim@BAWS

actionrjackson24
07-07-2009, 10:14 AM
Thanks. The coil is brand new, could it still get to hot?

ski_king
07-07-2009, 10:27 AM
I'm thinking vapor lock also.....

But you may want to also check the fuel pump. I had problems with the diaphrams on mine and caused simular symptoms once.

Slinkyredfoot
07-07-2009, 10:41 AM
I had a similar problem with my 79 351, it would stall after idling around the lake for an hour or so and then after a while it would run like nothing happened. I thought all along it was vapor lock but it turned out it was not. I changed my distributor to breakerless ignition but left all the leads hooked to the ballast resistor without knowing. I called the good people at ski dim and they told me to take all of the leads off of my ballast resistor, bolt them all together and tape the connection real good to prevent grounding out. Since I have done this, I have not had a problem in over a month. Not saying this is your issue but it took care of mine.

MMCCAR12
07-07-2009, 11:14 AM
I would also try and hot wire the ingition to bypass the ignition switch and all wireing plugs etc. This will eliminate the electrical and pin point gas. It takes AIR, GAS and SPARK.

Then you can bypass the Tank with a gas can and hose directly to the fuel pump. That will isolate the fuel tank system.

Good Luck

These older boats can be very painfull some times.
Dont just toss money at the problem.

Been there

chudson
07-08-2009, 10:08 AM
I had a similar problem with my 79 351, it would stall after idling around the lake for an hour or so and then after a while it would run like nothing happened. I thought all along it was vapor lock but it turned out it was not. I changed my distributor to breakerless ignition but left all the leads hooked to the ballast resistor without knowing. I called the good people at ski dim and they told me to take all of the leads off of my ballast resistor, bolt them all together and tape the connection real good to prevent grounding out. Since I have done this, I have not had a problem in over a month. Not saying this is your issue but it took care of mine.

Having the same problem, is the ballast resistor the little ceramic block mounted on the back of the engine near the reset botton?

Slinkyredfoot
07-08-2009, 10:25 AM
That is exactly what it is...2 wires on one of the studs and three on the other. Disconnect all of the leads, put a bolt thru all of them, nut it and tape with electrical tape real good to prevent grounding. The good old boys at skidim told me this should do the trick and like I said earlier, it did. There is actually a different coil for the breakerless or electronic ignition that probably should be changed as well, which I plan to do, skidim part # 1230. If you have any questions call skidim and talk to them. Good luck

chudson
07-08-2009, 10:31 AM
That is exactly what it is...2 wires on one of the studs and three on the other. Disconnect all of the leads, put a bolt thru all of them, nut it and tape with electrical tape real good to prevent grounding. The good old boys at skidim told me this should do the trick and like I said earlier, it did. There is actually a different coil for the breakerless or electronic ignition that probably should be changed as well, which I plan to do, skidim part # 1230. If you have any questions call skidim and talk to them. Good luck

Thanks a bunch, this has been a pain and hopefully that'll fix it. Put a electronic ignition on three years ago and it's the best thing I've done to the boat, as far as just starting it goes. Skidim didn't say anything about a replacing the coil, I'll give them a call. Seems like it has a better spark to the plugs though. Thanks again !!!