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wakezone99
07-06-2009, 01:09 PM
i was just looking under my boat and noticed the shaft is not centered in the hold where it comes through the hull it does not vibitate ,not make any noise although it is very close to the side when i spin the prop by hand it appears fine with no damage from stikeing anything boat seemed to run fine any sugestions?

FrankSchwab
07-06-2009, 01:40 PM
Two possibilities come to mind:
1. The strut is bent or improperly installed
2. The Engine is not aligned with the drive shaft properly, pushing it to the side.

In either case, the factory manual method of driveshaft alignment will not do much for you. You'll need to:
1. Remove the packing around the driveshaft
2. Seperate the driveshaft from the engine COMPLETELY (not just the .010" or .020" that the manual recommends). You should be able to pass something cleanly between the two sides of the coupler - a sheet of paper or a piece of cardboard.

Then, you should be able to better diagnose the issue. Grab the driveshaft at the coupler, and wiggle it back and forth, up and down, until you figure out where it wants to center - there will be some play in the cutlass bearings in the strut, and some amount that you can bend the shaft itself, so you'll have to be a bit sensitive.

If the shaft wants to center somewhere in the hole in the hull (the "shaft log"), then the strut is fine. Align the engine to match the "centered" location of the driveshaft, then do the alignment specified in the manual, replace the packing, and you're good to go.

If the shaft strikes the side of the log when trying to get to its natural center, then you have a strut issue. It's either bent (buy a new one), or wasn't correctly aligned when installed on the boat. Someone pulled the strut loose, elongated the mounting holes, and reinstalled to get their driveshaft correctly through the log, but I don't remember who. Others have purchased new struts and installed them.

In any case, search for "driveshaft alignment" here, and you'll find hours of reading, some of which is actually useful. There is a "driveshaft alignment" procedure attached to one or more of the threads that I used successfully to better align the driveshaft/engine than the Owners' manual procedure describes; I don't have access to that at the moment, so you'll have to look yourself.

Your pictures show a problem that's bad enough that I would definitely try to resolve it. Damage to the shaft log or to the driveshaft looks very possible with what you've got there.

/frank

If the strut is the problem, the

FrankSchwab
07-06-2009, 01:50 PM
Found a few links to get started
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25215&highlight=propshaft+alignment
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=20412&highlight=propshaft+alignment
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=8614&highlight=propshaft+alignment
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=1557&highlight=propshaft+alignment

/frank

MariStar-Man
10-17-2009, 03:13 PM
i was just looking under my boat and noticed the shaft is not centered in the hole?

Did you find out what the problem was?

canadianskier
10-18-2009, 10:12 PM
ok guys after reading this and a few threads I think I may have a problem, my prop shaft comes through the hole in the boat dead center, but is off to one side going through the strut mount, and it is very hard to turn my prop by hand. My question is would the strut be bent or missaligned. Can I loosen the strut bolts and turn or tweak it a bit? Can just the bushing be replaced, or do you need the hole new strut assy.

MariStar-Man
10-19-2009, 12:10 AM
My question is would the strut be bent or missaligned. Can I loosen the strut bolts and turn or tweak it a bit?

I'm a Newb but I have heard where fellas have bought NEW STRUTS and it was still off. You can either:

Grind or drill out the SCREW HOLES in the Strut to make it go where you want.

Buy a new strut, and try it.

Heat and Bend the strut to where you need it as long as it is centered.

I would first remove the SHAFT, then install NEW VESCONITE BEARINGS and then check the strut again.

Makes no sense to allign the strut if the bearings could be worn on one side more than the other...

You have to start at the Strut Bearings... And yes you can remove the screws in the strut but will need silicone on the screws to prevent leakage...

My :twocents:

FrankSchwab
10-19-2009, 01:18 AM
I think Maristar Man is a bit overboard on his advice there....

First, let's check to see how bad things are. Follow the steps I outlined above to determine where the shaft "wants" to go through the shaft log. As long as it's natural position doesn't touch the sides of the shaft log, you're good to go. It doesn't matter if it's off to the side of the hole, as long as it doesn't touch. Use the "Propshaft alignment" document in one of the links above, and everything will be good.

If the propshaft is touching the side of the shaft log, you have to make a decision. If it's just lightly touching, then you can "adjust" the engine alignment to move the shaft off the shaft log, and deal with the fact that you'll have to replace cutlass bearings more often. If it's touching heavily, then you need to replace the strut. In any case, it does sound like you'll need new cutlass bearings, but you can probably diagnose your situation using the old ones.

Good luck, and feel free to post back. You'll get plenty of advice, some of it good.

/frank

MariStar-Man
10-19-2009, 07:30 AM
I'm sorry, I thought Wakezone99 who origionally posted the pics, was asking the question...

Sidenote: Frank, do you have those Tracking Fins under your Maristar?

FrankSchwab
10-19-2009, 11:36 PM
Nope, no tracking fins on mine. I think they only come on the hardcore ski boats.

/frank

canadianskier
10-20-2009, 05:32 PM
ok how do I remove the prop shaft? have the floor out and the four bolts for the coupler. I can turn the transmission flange very easily by hand, but the coupler will not slide back. Now further back is two big bronze nuts do I have to loosen them first? and is that where your packing seal is? The job doesn`t look hard to do but I have just never done this befor. Also a there is a hose about 3" long from were the propshaft goes through the boat. With the coupler dissconnected the propshaft is still hard to turn by hand. Would badly worn strut bushings cause this? Anyways thats where iam going to start, but need to first remove propshaft. any help would be great, thanks guys.

TMCNo1
10-20-2009, 06:58 PM
ok how do I remove the prop shaft? have the floor out and the four bolts for the coupler. I can turn the transmission flange very easily by hand, but the coupler will not slide back. Now further back is two big bronze nuts do I have to loosen them first? and is that where your packing seal is? The job doesn`t look hard to do but I have just never done this befor. Also a there is a hose about 3" long from were the propshaft goes through the boat. With the coupler dissconnected the propshaft is still hard to turn by hand. Would badly worn strut bushings cause this? Anyways thats where iam going to start, but need to first remove propshaft. any help would be great, thanks guys.


Once you get the two halves of the coupler separated, there is a nut and key on the end of the prop shaft on the engine side of the shaft coupling half that will have to be removed to get the coupling half off to pull it through the shaft log/stuffing box and out. Loosening the shaft log lock nut and nut, will loosen the grip on the shaft and allow it to come out easier. Now would also be a good time to remove the old packing and install new once the shaft is back in.
Here is a tutorial on the packing for the shaft log/stuffing box, http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=159060&postcount=31

MariStar-Man
10-20-2009, 07:01 PM
This is the nut I beleive TMC is referring to. I need to remove mine as well...

With the Prop on the shaft, i put a 2x4 between the hull and prop and I was able to loosen and remove bolt. My shaft doesn't want to come out, so i ordered the Strut and Shaft Removal Tool from Skidim.com


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/alternator/DSC01670.jpg

Here is the Thanksgiving Stuffing...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/alternator/DSC01667.jpg

TMCNo1
10-20-2009, 07:31 PM
This is the nut I beleive TMC is referring to. I need to remove mine as well...

With the Prop on the shaft, i put a 2x4 between the hull and prop and I was able to loosen and remove bolt. My shaft doesn't want to come out, so i ordered the Strut and Shaft Removal Tool from Skidim.com


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/alternator/DSC01670.jpg

Here is the Thanksgiving Stuffing...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x203/DocHoliday1964/1999%20Maristar/alternator/DSC01667.jpg

Just so you'll know, the shaft coupling you show for a V Drive is different from a Direct Drive.
52617
52618

BTW, I'm TMCNo1, not TMC. TMC is Admin over Team Talk in Vonore.

FrankSchwab
10-21-2009, 12:53 AM
I don't think he's looking to remove the driveshaft at this point; he's just trying to see if the strut is bent. He says he wants to remove it, but I don't believe him.

If you remove the four bolts on the coupling, you should be able to slide the driveshaft back an inch or so. With the four bolts removed, there is nothing physically preventing the driveshaft from sliding backwards; it's got to be friction somewhere. You're going to have to overcome it.

Disconnect the hose clamp holding the 3" long rubber hose to the bottom of the hull, and slide the hose with the big brass assembly (the packing or stuffing box) a couple inches up the driveshaft. Then try separating the coupler again; perhaps friction in the packing is keeping you from moving the coupler.

Badly worn strut bearings shouldn't cause the issue you're having; they will mostly create excess play in the shaft, rather than excess friction.

/frank

canadianskier
10-21-2009, 09:58 PM
ok got the driveshaft push back a few inches still very hard to turn, no time to work on it yet, but could it be the packing is to tight? or worn. it never leaked at all. I can`t work on it until saturday and will let you know. btw with the driveshaft undone the sturt bushings look much better, not squashed to one side. alignment needed after I get the shaft spinning freely.

Jesus_Freak
10-22-2009, 12:59 PM
ok guys after reading this and a few threads I think I may have a problem, my prop shaft comes through the hole in the boat dead center, but is off to one side going through the strut mount, and it is very hard to turn my prop by hand. My question is would the strut be bent or missaligned. Can I loosen the strut bolts and turn or tweak it a bit? Can just the bushing be replaced, or do you need the hole new strut assy.

OK, so I happened to see this and wondered....how easy is one supposed to be able to turn the prop by hand (on a PS205, for example)? This has probably been explored on here before, but I dont remember.

FrankSchwab
10-22-2009, 03:15 PM
IMHO, If well aligned with correctly adjusted packing, two fingers should be able to rotate the prop.

JLeuck64
10-22-2009, 05:25 PM
I agree... after putting brand new drivetrain in my PS190 back in 2007 I can turn the prop with just a finger. It took me a while to get everything lined up just right...

ProStar Slalom
10-22-2009, 08:58 PM
OK, so I happened to see this and wondered....how easy is one supposed to be able to turn the prop by hand (on a PS205, for example)? This has probably been explored on here before, but I dont remember.


For reasons unknown, my '87 was a little stiff, requiring more than a finger or two to turn it. The alignment and drip rate were fine, so I never worried about it. The '84 and '01 turn with one finger...so I guess I'm no help....

You done skiing for the year?

Jesus_Freak
10-23-2009, 12:40 PM
For reasons unknown, my '87 was a little stiff, requiring more than a finger or two to turn it. The alignment and drip rate were fine, so I never worried about it. The '84 and '01 turn with one finger...so I guess I'm no help....

You done skiing for the year?

10-4. Thanks. I will need to look over things some more, but it definitely takes a full hand grip to rotate.

Yes, finished skiing wednesday. After INT (in SC) along with dragging my wife to the lake twice per week, my body and family have had enough. :D

You?

KHall
10-23-2009, 04:36 PM
when comparing shaft turning difficulty between boats remember that could be a difference between shaft seal types,(packing or seal types) and between the rubber and hard plastic type of strut bushings. Also, with my rubber bushings they sometimes were sticky when dry and easy to turn when wet. My new plastic ones always have very little friction.

Also IMHO the shaft alignment through the hull can be way off and still be acceptable, as long as its not rubbing. I installed brand new MC strut on my last direct drive boat and it changed the though hull alignment drastically. In the end the shaft was almost tight to one side of the through hull. Ultimately the drive train and motor align to the strut. Only if the shaft is hitting the through, hull is there then a problem. Take a lot of care in the alignment its worth the effort. I think i had it all aligned to less than .002" I could turn that prop with one finger after the install and alignment.

canadianskier
10-25-2009, 03:20 PM
ok guys my update. have the coupler undone, the packing nut undone and moved up the drive shaft, loosen the two hose clamps and moved the three inch rubber hose up aways. the drive shaft is hard to turn when centerd in the hole and lines up with trans coupler, easier to turn when drive shaft is pushed to the side, easier but not spinning freely. could it be that my strut bushings are just dry, they don`t look bad. when the driveshaft is centerd where it goes into the hull it bines in the strut, thinking possible bent strut. what do you guys think, just put some bushings in and see what happens or what?

JLeuck64
10-25-2009, 06:50 PM
You shouldn't have to push the driveshaft over to the center of the hole. I think Frank already mentioned this in his post but in a perfect world the drive shaft should naturally rest very close to the center of the hole when disconnected from the trans.

If it is just off left or right I woud try this: Remove your drive shaft; Remove your strut; Clean up the sealant; Replace the strut bushings if worn or you have more than say 500HRS on them; Re-install the strut with just four bolts and lightly tighten the nuts; Move the strut left to right to see if you can get the drive shaft to pass through the center of the opening in your hull; If you have to modify the bolt holes to make this happen just do it; Once you are happy with the driveshaft placement go ahead and re-seal all the bolts and tighten the strut back in place; Move on to re-aligning the motor and trans to mate up with the new drive shaft position...

Hopefully your shaft is just off to the left or right. I had a situation where I needed to change the angle of my strut just a little bit to keep the driveshaft from hitting the bottom of the hole. Harder to do but not impossible. Be happy to share my solution if you run into a similar situation. Just PM me.
J

canadianskier
10-25-2009, 07:23 PM
hey, JLeuck64 thanks for the input would worn strut bushing cause binding? the bushings look ok but driveshaft still hard to turn. boat is a `92 prostar with 480 hours. Iam thinking of doing the bushings and then go from there. also once the bolts are removed for the strut how hard is it to remove the strut? how strong is the sealant? I have all winter to do this just don`t want to screw something up.

JLeuck64
10-26-2009, 10:41 PM
The binding is usually due to the engine and drive shaft alignment being off, from the strut. Can't really tell what the bushings really look like until you remove the shaft from the strut. Come to think of it... if your drive shaft has been binding in the strut for a long period of time you can expect to see some heavy wear on the drive shaft as a result. Sounds like you will be rebuilding the drivetrain this winter...

I personally haven't had to much trouble breaking the bond created by the sealant before. Sometimes you will need to bang on the strut with a deadblow hammer (or a piece of wood). Sometimes I have had to use an old worn out prop shaft to pull the strut off the hull. I think the older the sealant the easier it will yield.

canadianskier
11-04-2009, 01:06 AM
ok just an update here, removed the bolts for the strut, and as soon as the sturt was free from the hull driveshaft spins freely. On closer look at the bolts four of them are bent, strut was more than likely sitting crooked causing the binding. Will get new bolts, install strut and see what happens.

canadianskier
12-05-2009, 06:47 PM
does anyone have a pic of how the steering cable mounting bracket mounts to the driveshaft strut bolts. Is the mount/support bracket bolted to the floor of the hull or is it raised off the floor with spacer nuts. seems I have four extra nuts and washers.

MariStar-Man
12-05-2009, 08:43 PM
does anyone have a pic of how the steering cable mounting bracket mounts to the driveshaft strut bolts. Is the mount/support bracket bolted to the floor of the hull or is it raised off the floor with spacer nuts. seems I have four extra nuts and washers.
Do you think they raised either the back, front, or right or left side as part of the allignment of the strut to the boat?

canadianskier
12-06-2009, 01:32 AM
Do you think they raised either the back, front, or right or left side as part of the allignment of the strut to the boat?

No, it has nothing to do with the alignment of the strut to the boat, that is stright forward, just bolts to the hull with 8 bolts. Should of taken a pic of bracket befor I took it apart.

FrankSchwab
12-06-2009, 11:23 AM
I'd help you out, but I've got a V-drive and it's probably not the same. I'm hoping that a little activity on this thread will draw out someone more knowledgeable for you.

/frank

glassmaster
12-26-2009, 07:23 PM
I don't know if this will help, but I have an 87" Prostar I am restoring and it definitely has space between the L bracket for the steering tube mount.
I don't know what is used for spacing but it seems like you would bolt the strut on to the hull with the nuts and washers and then slide the L bracket over the remaining threads and use the extra nuts you referred to.

canadianskier
02-05-2010, 01:32 AM
ok just an update here got eight new strut bolts, clean everything up, siliconed holes top and bottom and strut base tighten everything up and shaft spins much easier now. Will need to check the shaft rope seal when putting boat in water for the first time.

TMCNo1
02-05-2010, 06:49 AM
does anyone have a pic of how the steering cable mounting bracket mounts to the driveshaft strut bolts. Is the mount/support bracket bolted to the floor of the hull or is it raised off the floor with spacer nuts. seems I have four extra nuts and washers.

This is how I remounted ours when the strut was removed for polishing. I put it back like it came off, with a lockwasher on top of the strut bolt nut, then the plate with a new Nyloc nut on top.
55365

CantRepeat
02-05-2010, 10:57 AM
No, it has nothing to do with the alignment of the strut to the boat, that is stright forward, just bolts to the hull with 8 bolts.


You may want to rethink that part about it just bolts to the hull of the boat part of your strut issues. There is still some movement that can be done while bolting the strut to the hull. In fact this is the number one issue with the prop shaft not centering in the log.

You may want to read this thread. It got me to the one finger prop turn that people are refering to.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25215&highlight=propshaft+alignment

Good luck on your repairs.

canadianskier
02-05-2010, 10:54 PM
thanks for the pic TMCNo1 thats the way I put it together

canadianskier
02-05-2010, 11:02 PM
You may want to rethink that part about it just bolts to the hull of the boat part of your strut issues. There is still some movement that can be done while bolting the strut to the hull. In fact this is the number one issue with the prop shaft not centering in the log.

You may want to read this thread. It got me to the one finger prop turn that people are refering to.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25215&highlight=propshaft+alignment

Good luck on your repairs.

thanks for the link 92Maristar shaft is centered going through the hole in the boat, strut is bolted on, shaft is not touching any part of the brass packing assy, and bolts right up to the trans flange. Takes a little effort to spin prop with one finger but can be done. allmost needed two hands to spin it befor

CantRepeat
02-07-2010, 09:31 AM
thanks for the link 92Maristar shaft is centered going through the hole in the boat, strut is bolted on, shaft is not touching any part of the brass packing assy, and bolts right up to the trans flange. Takes a little effort to spin prop with one finger but can be done. allmost needed two hands to spin it befor

Excellent!