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btriantos
06-23-2009, 12:31 PM
I have the '07 X30. Has anyone tried to split their engine vent that runs from the base of the windshield, down a tube through the hull, to keep their amps cool? I am about to install a third amp in the storage locker, and I have a powered sub woofer in there on top of that. It gets warm, and I would like to get some airflow in there without having to use anything electrical(ie. fan). It looks like you can simply take off the hose, put a splitter fitting on the it, and use that incoming air to cool the amps on the inward wall. Does anyone have any ideas or examples of how you might have done this?

brucemac
06-23-2009, 01:02 PM
i'd be worried about water damage. my vents leak sometimes in a heavy rain.

btriantos
06-23-2009, 01:05 PM
I'm concerned about water splashing in the vent from windshield blasts, but rain won't be an issue. It's stored indoors. The tube will be about a foot from the first amp. I doubt any water getting in will have the velocity to get on the amps, but my design should prepare for the worst

brucemac
06-23-2009, 03:25 PM
i guess it could work, but it wouldn't help much when you're sitting idle, beached or anchored. why are you against getting a small draw fan? how about putting some "feet" under the amps so that they're raised off of the carpet/backing to allow for more airflow?

mpabreo
06-23-2009, 03:43 PM
I'm currently working on this same issue for my 09 X45. The stock amps dont get too hot as mid/high class AB amps dont draw much current, but my sub amp gets really hot. This weekend, while out anchored at the sandbar, it got so hot I couldnt touch it, yet its protection feature had not yet cut off the amp for exceeding temperature limits. I have used stinger barrel type fans before to solve this problem, this time I think im going with PAC diametral fans, probably 2, 115 cfm each. As for wiring, all that is needed is to tie the power into one of the amp remote wires, and ground under the dash or some other nearby ground location. They are very simple installations. Remember, make sure the airflow is directed across the heat sinks on the amp(s).

M-Funf
06-23-2009, 04:13 PM
Water cooled? Attach a heat exchanger to it and run lake water through the heat exchanger with a small pump. ;)

btriantos
06-23-2009, 04:36 PM
My main concern of adding more electrical to the system is that I'm just not sure how long I can sit running the stereo with the engine off before the batteries die. This will put me at 3 amps, a powered sub, and a couple two farad caps to keep things on a even keel. I typically don't run the stereo that long with the engine off, but I don't want to take the chance. I did just install a battery charger too, just because I was getting worried about the power draw. I will have to re-arrange the two existing amps to take advantage of additional space, and I will make sure that they are gapped on the sidewall. What I don't want to do is have to mount the third amp on the carpeted floor...spacers or not.

mpabreo
06-23-2009, 05:09 PM
Cooling fans draw very little current, the PAC model I mention above draws 0.6 amps. Thats buttah! and surely won't be a consideration to your power system as described. Your caps also are not going to effect system draw. What will be the biggest voltage hog is the sub amp, assuming you have an aftermarket sub (more power than the stock sub).

To give you an idea, I have about 2000W RMS in my boat, my sub amp is a monster, and known for sucking power like I do beers. This weekend, I was anchored out for about 2hrs straight without the engine on and had the system pumping, I mean loud. Started the engine with no problem. This is with the battery switch on the S battery, never had to bump it to combined to get the boost.

Ultimately, whats going to give you more ability/power while the engine is off is a higher amp-hour (ah) rating on your batteries. Which is why you may have seen in a recent post today about batteries, that I'm switching to the AGM style battery that has far superior ah ratings.

Good luck. (Nice bote too!)

btriantos
06-23-2009, 05:23 PM
Thanks! Where did you pick up the fans? I am getting the JL G1700 to run the existing 10" JL sub...taking it off the exisiting 6 channel. I'm sure a sub upgrade will be in order...but that will be next years project.

mpabreo
06-23-2009, 05:34 PM
I use sonicelectronix.com for most my audio, i think they have both barrel and traditional style cooling fans. Choose one (or more) that best fits your system layout.

Off topic question, anyone know which sub comes with our boats? the JL audio M10IB5 or the M10W5?

RWB_XSTAR
06-23-2009, 06:07 PM
Have to post when you install to see if it solves the issue. I need a similar remedy as when I'm tied-up and partying or at the sandbar mine will cut off for a good 15 to 20 min. Amps seem cool...so I'm guessing its the sub. I have 3 amps running.

btriantos
06-23-2009, 06:20 PM
Thanks Again. It's the 10IB5

Eagle Lake Rebel
06-23-2009, 09:10 PM
Running 4 amps in my '07 X30 without overheat pbls. When running, I'll open the port bow backrest for a nice cool 95 to 100 degree gulp of Mississippi air. Two of my amps have built in fans which help a lot. You can mount 3 amps on the side wall if you get a bit creative. I'll try to get a photo to you on how they are mounted, but that may take a few days.

btriantos
06-24-2009, 08:33 AM
EAgle Lake, I would love to see a picture of your set up.. I'm struggling with how/where I'm going to put this thing

zberger
06-24-2009, 10:54 AM
I'm currently working on this same issue for my 09 X45. The stock amps dont get too hot as mid/high class AB amps dont draw much current, but my sub amp gets really hot. This weekend, while out anchored at the sandbar, it got so hot I couldnt touch it, yet its protection feature had not yet cut off the amp for exceeding temperature limits. I have used stinger barrel type fans before to solve this problem, this time I think im going with PAC diametral fans, probably 2, 115 cfm each. As for wiring, all that is needed is to tie the power into one of the amp remote wires, and ground under the dash or some other nearby ground location. They are very simple installations. Remember, make sure the airflow is directed across the heat sinks on the amp(s).

It might be worth looking into a class D sub amp them.. ~70% effiency vs. ~50% with class AB amps.

They run alot cooler because less power is wasted as heat.

JL just came out with their HD amps.. which are pretty flippin neat. Class D power usage with class AB sound.

mpabreo
06-24-2009, 11:14 AM
Ive heard a lot of good things about the HD amps, never used one though.

btriantos
06-24-2009, 11:25 AM
This JL G1700 is Class D...I hope there is an improvement!

Ben
06-24-2009, 11:46 AM
Years ago when I was cool and had a system in my car, I added a very simple fan to a 4 channel Crutchfield amp (made by precision power IIRC). Anyway, I got a hold of a 12 volt flat based fan (kinda like the 3-4" ones used on old desktop computers) and screwed it to the end of the amp. I drilled holes in the metal amp case where the fan mounted. I think there was enough air gaps around the rest of the amp that it sucked air in from multiple spots (i.e. fuse block, RCA connections, etc). This was enough to fix the overheating problem I was having after running for a while. I had it on a separate switch w/LED on dash to look cool, but in reality, it could be connected to the amp turnon lead to make it easier, then it always runs. I know this cooled the internals rather than the fins, but still did the job.

You may not want to drill in the side of your amp though, mine was a few years old. Just wanted to give another low cost option that worked for me.

zberger
06-24-2009, 12:00 PM
This JL G1700 is Class D...I hope there is an improvement!

This is the monoblock class D HD amp from JL.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=483

mpabreo
06-24-2009, 01:29 PM
This JL G1700 is Class D...I hope there is an improvement!

The G1700 will be an improvement from using the stock setup (2 channels off the M6600) which gives the sub 150w rms @ 4ohm. The G1700 will give you 250w rms at 4ohm.

However, since you're upgrading the sub next year, I'd go with the better Slash series amps by JL. The 250/1 slash amp is only about 20 bucks more expensive and you'd be getting a much more solid amp.

hawaiianstiln
06-24-2009, 03:30 PM
yah you will get water damage on those amps if you split that hose. I did it on my malibu and burned an amp up not realizing about the water damage.

btriantos
06-24-2009, 05:46 PM
good to know

btriantos
06-24-2009, 05:48 PM
The G1700 will be an improvement from using the stock setup (2 channels off the M6600) which gives the sub 150w rms @ 4ohm. The G1700 will give you 250w rms at 4ohm.

However, since you're upgrading the sub next year, I'd go with the better Slash series amps by JL. The 250/1 slash amp is only about 20 bucks more expensive and you'd be getting a much more solid amp.

What is the spec difference between the two that is compelling? I got the G1700 for $275.00, which I thought was a good deal. I did not see the 750/1 any cheaper than $599. The budget's a bit tight this year.

mpabreo
06-24-2009, 09:41 PM
What is the spec difference between the two that is compelling? I got the G1700 for $275.00, which I thought was a good deal. I did not see the 750/1 any cheaper than $599. The budget's a bit tight this year.

I was referencing the 250/1 slash amp not the HD 750/1. Big difference there. Jl's slash amps are very robust, you can get that amp for the same price as the G you mention. The 750/1 is a diff story. Reason I recommened the slash is that when u upgrade the sub, if u went with a 2 ohm sub, or a dual voicecoil 4 ohm sub, you could wire it and get about 350 watts rms from the slash amp as they are underrated at lower resistances. For now, you'd just keep the gain at a reasonable level with the stock sub. Just more boom for the buck!

brucemac
06-24-2009, 10:28 PM
fwiw, i've had 3 subs in 3 years with 4 different amps on 2 different boats. in my opinion you won't notice a whole lot of difference going from 150-250W with the same sub and box. it's not going to blow you away or anything. i didn't really notice a big improvement until this past winter when i upgraded to 600W and i would still want a bit more if i had the coin to completely redo it and upgrade my alternator. i guess my point is, if it were me, i'd save my money and do it right so you're not disappointed and feeling like you need to upgrade again. depends on what you're after i guess too though.

Scott
06-25-2009, 08:23 AM
fwiw, i've had 3 subs in 3 years with 4 different amps on 2 different boats. in my opinion you won't notice a whole lot of difference going from 150-250W with the same sub and box. it's not going to blow you away or anything. i didn't really notice a big improvement until this past winter when i upgraded to 600W and i would still want a bit more if i had the coin to completely redo it and upgrade my alternator. i guess my point is, if it were me, i'd save my money and do it right so you're not disappointed and feeling like you need to upgrade again. depends on what you're after i guess too though.

I would second this statement... I have upgraded my stereo numerous times... I wish I had done it right the first time..

mpabreo
06-25-2009, 09:30 AM
fwiw, i've had 3 subs in 3 years with 4 different amps on 2 different boats. in my opinion you won't notice a whole lot of difference going from 150-250W with the same sub and box. it's not going to blow you away or anything. i didn't really notice a big improvement until this past winter when i upgraded to 600W and i would still want a bit more if i had the coin to completely redo it and upgrade my alternator. i guess my point is, if it were me, i'd save my money and do it right so you're not disappointed and feeling like you need to upgrade again. depends on what you're after i guess too though.

I 'third' that statement. My last boat I upgraded the sound system every winter for 5 years. The new boat got it done the right way the first go round, at least with the sub.

Power = Sound.... I remember some audio guru telling me years ago something like..., for every 3db gain above 110-120db or so, you have to double the power to get it.

btriantos
06-25-2009, 10:04 AM
you guys are definately having me second guess this. My approach was going to be to get the amp, (G1700 - supposed to deliver 350w at 4 ohms), and see how that goes. I do not have very high expectations, but it should sound slightly better than the amp it's currently connected to at full gain.(stock JL 6 channel). Next season, I was planning on building a custom enclosure for the stock sub, possibly firing it downward in the same location, and have it completely sealed, and not ported (JL recommended this in a 2cf box). I am expecting a much bigger difference on this set up. I already have the Infinity Basslink in the storage locker, and it sounds great. I like clean tight bass, and hate booming, just for the sake of booming. The sub should exhance and round out the sound completely without being too overbearing.(IMO). With that said, am I still off to a bad start? I have built my own enclosures for my vehicles in the past, and follow acoustic guidlines, gut feel, and my ear to make tweaks. I love listening to music loud, but it has to be clean, and not muddy or boomy. That gives me a headache! On your sub upgrades, have you increased to 12's? Where did you locate? How many watts are you pumping to it? What is the RMS rating of the sub?

btriantos
06-29-2009, 05:50 PM
Running 4 amps in my '07 X30 without overheat pbls. When running, I'll open the port bow backrest for a nice cool 95 to 100 degree gulp of Mississippi air. Two of my amps have built in fans which help a lot. You can mount 3 amps on the side wall if you get a bit creative. I'll try to get a photo to you on how they are mounted, but that may take a few days.

Do you have a picture of your three amp set up in the storage locker? Did you have to modify the side surface or just use the stock wall?

Eagle Lake Rebel
06-29-2009, 09:47 PM
btriantos, PM sent to you. I have a couple of shots to send. Used the stock wall. Installed spacers that allowed me to mount a additional amp backplane IN FRONT of the air vent tubing. I didn't want amps getting in the way of my surf sac that is located in the same storage area.

btriantos
06-30-2009, 10:47 AM
btriantos, PM sent to you. I have a couple of shots to send. Used the stock wall. Installed spacers that allowed me to mount a additional amp backplane IN FRONT of the air vent tubing. I didn't want amps getting in the way of my surf sac that is located in the same storage area.

I like the idea! Where did you get the spacers? I'll be heading to radio shack shortly for some electrical supplies...