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farmboy0318
06-14-2009, 06:57 PM
I am having problems with the speedos on my stars and stripes. Last season the left one worked fine and the right one stayed stuck at 25mph. This season the right one works and the left one is not. I have checked the pitots and the they do not appear to be plugged up with debris. Both speedos, tubes, and pitots are original equipment. Any suggestions?

TMCNo1
06-14-2009, 07:26 PM
Clean out the lines, ballast tube and replace the pitots, http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=769B

jasonba1
06-14-2009, 08:53 PM
You can also pick up all the speedo parts from Jim Jackson at viper customs and his prices are usually cheaper than anywhere else. 865-388-4096

Bellinghamster
06-14-2009, 09:55 PM
I had intermittant speedometer jamming problems until I took them both apart and cleaned out the dead bugs that kept getting caught in the works.... they've both been working fine since!

ski_king
06-14-2009, 10:55 PM
You can also pick up all the speedo parts from Jim Jackson at viper customs and his prices are usually cheaper than anywhere else. 865-388-4096

I somehow knew you were going to say that.

Hopefully the speedometers are in good shape. Airguides are next to impossible to find now and if you do find them, the price is usually high.

farmboy0318
06-17-2009, 06:13 PM
They are in perfect shape with the exception of extremely minimal corrosion on the case. Where can i find a diagram so I can take them apart to clean them and actually be able to put them back together.

454Prostar190
06-17-2009, 07:04 PM
I am having problems with the speedos on my stars and stripes. Last season the left one worked fine and the right one stayed stuck at 25mph. This season the right one works and the left one is not. I have checked the pitots and the they do not appear to be plugged up with debris. Both speedos, tubes, and pitots are original equipment. Any suggestions?

I had my speedos stick at 20 or 25mph or not worked and used a small wire to clear out debris from the hole in the pitot tube on that side of the boat which allowed the water to drain, or cleared the tube so water could enter. Last year, I hit a sand bar, bent the prop shaft, had it repaired but, then found that I had one pitot tube that broke, sort of, as no matter what I do the speedo won't work.

I recently went to the MC dealer and was told there were no original style available and that what they offered as a replacement: "Had a triangular mounting shape that was different than the original and wouldn't cover the existing hole". They didn't have any in stock so, I couldn't actually see what I was up against as far as "the hole" and what wouldn't cover.

That's what I have to offer... so far and I still only have 1 speedo that works. Rick

pkskier
06-17-2009, 08:20 PM
I must say that if speedos were stuck on my boat I would make them swim to shore.

TMCNo1
06-17-2009, 08:55 PM
I had my speedos stick at 20 or 25mph or not worked and used a small wire to clear out debris from the hole in the pitot tube on that side of the boat which allowed the water to drain, or cleared the tube so water could enter. Last year, I hit a sand bar, bent the prop shaft, had it repaired but, then found that I had one pitot tube that broke, sort of, as no matter what I do the speedo won't work.

I recently went to the MC dealer and was told there were no original style available and that what they offered as a replacement: "Had a triangular mounting shape that was different than the original and wouldn't cover the existing hole". They didn't have any in stock so, I couldn't actually see what I was up against as far as "the hole" and what wouldn't cover.

That's what I have to offer... so far and I still only have 1 speedo that works. Rick

To date, this is the best replacement out there for the Airguide pitots and the note under the item explains the mounting in a nutshell and no one will ever know by the looks that they have been replaced, http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=769B

Slinkyredfoot
06-17-2009, 09:59 PM
The exact pitots Harold was refering to in the previous post, installed on a 79. They look original and work just fine

flat broke
06-18-2009, 03:16 AM
They are in perfect shape with the exception of extremely minimal corrosion on the case. Where can i find a diagram so I can take them apart to clean them and actually be able to put them back together.


good ? any one ? I have a ballast that leaks water internal through the top of the nipple that goes up to the gauge side. If I plug the top of it I do not see any sign of water any where else. so can you buy new ballast ? or are they serviceable ?

TMCNo1
06-18-2009, 07:42 AM
good ? any one ? I have a ballast that leaks water internal through the top of the nipple that goes up to the gauge side. If I plug the top of it I do not see any sign of water any where else. so can you buy new ballast ? or are they serviceable ?

If it's brass like most I've seen, just take it to a radiator shop and they can solder it up.

Bellinghamster
06-18-2009, 09:55 AM
They are in perfect shape with the exception of extremely minimal corrosion on the case. Where can i find a diagram so I can take them apart to clean them and actually be able to put them back together.

The spedos are dirt simple inside - If I recall correctly, An air pressure diaphram pushes a lever that pulls a chain that turns a gear that moves the needle. The mechanism is easy to figure out once you pull off the back cover. Nothing flies apart, and you don't really need to take any of it apart - In my case a small beetle carcass was intermittently getting jammed in the gear. Seriously! How the beetle got in there remains a mystery.

One word of caution - the dial face is coated with a non-reflecting coating that will suck up fingerprints. Attempts to clean off said fingerprints only make things worse, and smear the reflective ink used for the numbers... (I'm looking into making some reproduction dial faces on a buddy's laser etching machine).

454Prostar190
06-18-2009, 11:30 AM
To date, this is the best replacement out there for the Airguide pitots and the note under the item explains the mounting in a nutshell and no one will ever know by the looks that they have been replaced, http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=769B

Thank you! This is the information that I was hoping for. I'll check into these! Rick

M-Funf
06-18-2009, 01:13 PM
I had problems with my Airguides as well. The originals had broken pressure diaphrams, so I just replaced them with two I found on fleabay.

But even after replacing them, one didn't work at all, and the other didn't work well. As it turned out, the tube leading from the pitot to the gauge was rubbing on the corner of the fuel tank, and wore a hole through it. I ran new tubing (pulled new tubing into place using old tubing as a guide), replace the pitot's, and everything works well now.

Try disconnecting from the pitot and applying LIGHT pressure to the tube. Don't apply too much, you could damage the speedo.

My new Sammy's...

48513

flat broke
06-18-2009, 04:08 PM
If it's brass like most I've seen, just take it to a radiator shop and they can solder it up.


? why would you have them solder the top up ? after all that is the signal part to the gauge ?
my ? is what is inside a diaphram ? what is in there to convert water pressure to air pressure ? cause one of mine water comes out the top and one does not.

also I see people post in here becareful not blow to hard through the lines not to damage the
gauge ? I have to blow really hard to even make my gauge even go to 5mph ? any suggestions ? I have taken the line off the gauge and blown through both side's it does not feel like there is any restrictions even bought new tubing and felt the same just to compare.

M-Funf
06-18-2009, 04:45 PM
I have to blow really hard to even make my gauge even go to 5mph ? any suggestions ? I have taken the line off the gauge and blown through both side's it does not feel like there is any restrictions even bought new tubing and felt the same just to compare.

5-10 mph is about all you can do with your lungs. If you have a manual vacuum/pressure device, you can apply pressure gradually and also see if there are leaks that drain it down...

48524

flat broke
06-18-2009, 04:48 PM
5-10 mph is about all you can do with your lungs. If you have a manual vacuum/pressure device, you can apply pressure gradually and also see if there are leaks that drain it down...

48524


ahh very good idea I did not think about that :)

TMCNo1
06-18-2009, 04:52 PM
? why would you have them solder the top up ? after all that is the signal part to the gauge ?
my ? is what is inside a diaphram ? what is in there to convert water pressure to air pressure ? cause one of mine water comes out the top and one does not.

also I see people post in here becareful not blow to hard through the lines not to damage the
gauge ? I have to blow really hard to even make my gauge even go to 5mph ? any suggestions ? I have taken the line off the gauge and blown through both side's it does not feel like there is any restrictions even bought new tubing and felt the same just to compare.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flat broke http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/mc2009/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?p=607492#post607492)
good ? any one ? I have a ballast that leaks water internal through the top of the nipple that goes up to the gauge side. If I plug the top of it I do not see any sign of water any where else. so can you buy new ballast ? or are they serviceable ?


By your post, I thought you were talking about the ballast tube in the rear of the boat that has tubes that go to the gauge, nevermind.

flat broke
06-18-2009, 04:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by flat broke http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/mc2009/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?p=607492#post607492)
good ? any one ? I have a ballast that leaks water internal through the top of the nipple that goes up to the gauge side. If I plug the top of it I do not see any sign of water any where else. so can you buy new ballast ? or are they serviceable ?


By your post, I thought you were talking about the ballast tube in the rear of the boat that has tubes that go to the gauge, nevermind.

I am. I feel I can not get a straight answer. I feel I have posted my ? as technical as I can and most direct but no straight answers from anyone ?

WilliM1940
06-18-2009, 11:40 PM
From CCFan:

Dave, my speedos have a painted copper tube just before the speedo that is no more than a air tank so to speak.

Jeff...

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David F
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That is the stabilizer. Yes, it is an air tank and helps absorb pressure fluctuations in the line so the speedo needle does not bounce.

I was unsuccessful in locating the tubes on the net. However, you would be able to get them from CC. In my search, I noticed some call them ballast tubes. Skidim refers to it as a stabilizer tube in their maintenance (winterizing) section.

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JEFF KOSTIS
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Mine split once and soldered it back up. They dont look hard to make. No more than a copper pipe and some caps.

WilliM1940
06-18-2009, 11:44 PM
and again:
David F
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No, not "T"ed (teed) of the line, it is inline. The tube has a nipple on each end, so the air pressure from the pitot goes in and then out, so to speak, through the tube. The tube simply gives the small pressure line a larger volume to help absorb and reduce pressure fluctuations. As far as the residential analogy goes, you are talking about a shock absorber that only has an "IN" that traps air (mounted vertically) and gives the moving water a place to decelerate (instead of hammering against the end of the valve) when a valve is suddenly shut off. The only reason we mount the stabilizer tube vertical is so that any water that works it up the pressure line will be drained out of the tube and thus will not freeze in the winter.

farmboy0318
06-21-2009, 10:34 AM
Thank you for your help everyone. I am going to start working on this project this afternoon.