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Jason99T/A
06-07-2009, 11:24 PM
Took the boat out this afternoon, and it had some belt issues. The boat is a 99 Prostar 205 with the 330 hp LTR engine. Anything above 4k rpm the engine would throw the belt. This happened pretty much all day. The belt does need to be changed, but there appears to be a belt alignment issue as the belt wants to ride on the front edge of the water pump pulley. I just purchased the boat a week ago and this was the second outing. Toward the end of the first outing, the belt started to squeek, but the belt was never thrown. Before going out today, I put a new tensioner on the boat, thinking that was the problem. It appeared to not have an effect, or maybe making it worse. I plan to change the belt tomorrow, but the alignment problem still concerns me. Has anyone else had this issue? I know there was an alternator bracket recall, but I'm not sure if the previous owner had of fixed. Could this be the problem?

Thanks,
Jason

JimN
06-07-2009, 11:36 PM
That sounds like the problem- the previous owner didn't have it repaired or the dealer didn't bother to do it. Call MC and find out what the part number is. If you sight along the front edges of the pulleys, you'll see that it doesn't line up and it's off by about one groove.

hester
06-07-2009, 11:55 PM
**** Here is the info I got from Indmar when I made my request last year. ***

SERVICE ALERT

Date: August 21, 2001

Advisory #SA2001-1

SUBJECT: MasterCraft LTR Alternator Bracket

There have been reports in the field of failures of the cast aluminum alternator bracket, alternator
bracket bolts and/or alternator case mounting tab on MasterCraft LTR models equipped with
serpentine belts.
Indmar Engineering has determined that an additional bracket may eliminate the stress that occurs
on the alternator mounting system during acceleration and deceleration of the engine or when the
boat is being operated in rough-water conditions.

Engines with serial number IC983582 or higher will have this bracket installed at Indmar. An LTR
Alternator Bracket Kit has been developed to deal with the units experiencing this problem in the
field.

PARTS REQUIRED
495109 LTR Alternator Bracket Kit
FLAT RATE TIME
.5 hour
BULLETIN EXPIRATION
Warranty consideration under this bulletin will expire on Sept 1, 2002.
PROCEDURE
1. Release the tension on the belt tensioner and remove the serpentine belt.
2. Remove the 3/8-16 X 3-3/4” bolt and washers from the upper mounting boss on the
alternator. Discard the bolt but retain the washers for re-use.
3. Remove the lower circulating water pump mounting bolt on the side of the pump nearest the
alternator. Retain the bolt for re-use.
4. Align the alternator bracket from the kit between the mounting boss on the alternator and
the lower circulating pump mounting hole.
5. Install the water pump mounting bolt through the bracket and pump and into the block.
6. Install the new alternator-mounting bolt along with the washers retained during disassembly,
through the bracket into the upper alternator mounting boss.
7. Torque the alternator bolt and the water pump bolt to 25 Lb. ft. (35Nm).
8. Reinstall the Serpentine belt.

JimN
06-08-2009, 12:39 AM
**** Here is the info I got from Indmar when I made my request last year. ***

SERVICE ALERT

Date: August 21, 2001

Advisory #SA2001-1

SUBJECT: MasterCraft LTR Alternator Bracket

There have been reports in the field of failures of the cast aluminum alternator bracket, alternator
bracket bolts and/or alternator case mounting tab on MasterCraft LTR models equipped with
serpentine belts.
Indmar Engineering has determined that an additional bracket may eliminate the stress that occurs
on the alternator mounting system during acceleration and deceleration of the engine or when the
boat is being operated in rough-water conditions.

Engines with serial number IC983582 or higher will have this bracket installed at Indmar. An LTR
Alternator Bracket Kit has been developed to deal with the units experiencing this problem in the
field.

PARTS REQUIRED
495109 LTR Alternator Bracket Kit
FLAT RATE TIME
.5 hour
BULLETIN EXPIRATION
Warranty consideration under this bulletin will expire on Sept 1, 2002.
PROCEDURE
1. Release the tension on the belt tensioner and remove the serpentine belt.
2. Remove the 3/8-16 X 3-3/4 bolt and washers from the upper mounting boss on the
alternator. Discard the bolt but retain the washers for re-use.
3. Remove the lower circulating water pump mounting bolt on the side of the pump nearest the
alternator. Retain the bolt for re-use.
4. Align the alternator bracket from the kit between the mounting boss on the alternator and
the lower circulating pump mounting hole.
5. Install the water pump mounting bolt through the bracket and pump and into the block.
6. Install the new alternator-mounting bolt along with the washers retained during disassembly,
through the bracket into the upper alternator mounting boss.
7. Torque the alternator bolt and the water pump bolt to 25 Lb. ft. (35Nm).
8. Reinstall the Serpentine belt.

That one covers the breaking brackets but the alignment issue was from the '99 model year. In fact, it was the first run of LTR motors that had the belt alignment problem, as well as the charging lead being too taut, which caused the ring terminal to break. If it's not a problem by now, it probably has been taken care of.

Jason99T/A
06-08-2009, 12:51 AM
Good info guys. Jim- the part # listed above fixes the alignment issue too, or was a seperate recall?

JimN
06-08-2009, 01:05 AM
Good info guys. Jim- the part # listed above fixes the alignment issue too, or was a seperate recall?

I don't know of I still have a copy but in late '99 or early 2000, they had a recall for the alignment issue. The brackets breaking was another one. These were generally because the vendors changed something without consulting MC. The alternator bolts that were breaking were due to the vendor changing the hardness and assuming the ones that were called for didn't need to be a particular hardness.

hester
06-08-2009, 07:09 AM
That one covers the breaking brackets but the alignment issue was from the '99 model year. In fact, it was the first run of LTR motors that had the belt alignment problem, as well as the charging lead being too taut, which caused the ring terminal to break. If it's not a problem by now, it probably has been taken care of.

When I contacted Indmar with my serial # last year that is one of the three service alerts they sent me for my 99'. Just thought I would throw it out there...

Jason99T/A
06-08-2009, 12:11 PM
http://mymastercraft.com/Forum/view_thread.cfm?postid=5&forum=10&category=2

Mastercraft Part # 81496005

Does anyone have any pictures of the original water pump pulley vs. the new design? The boat has 500 hrs on it. I can't believe this wasn't taken care of before?

Also, any pictures of the new bracket vs old alternator bracket?

Jason99T/A
06-08-2009, 03:41 PM
I added some pics of the alignment problem. Can anyone confirm if the water pump pulley is the new or old version?

Jason99T/A
06-09-2009, 11:07 AM
Any opinions?

JimN
06-09-2009, 11:28 AM
The water pump wasn't the issue, as far as I remember. It was the pulley and alternator bracket not allowing the pulleys to line up.

Jason99T/A
06-09-2009, 11:42 AM
The water pump wasn't the issue, as far as I remember. It was the pulley and alternator bracket not allowing the pulleys to line up.

What pulley- water pump, alternator, or crank? I thought the fix was the shouldered water pump pulley.

Regardless, I have the new design water pump pulley and alternator bracket being installed this week!

JimN
06-09-2009, 02:26 PM
What pulley- water pump, alternator, or crank? I thought the fix was the shouldered water pump pulley.

Regardless, I have the new design water pump pulley and alternator bracket being installed this week!

The only pulley that isn't a stock part on the motor when it leaves GM, which means the water circulating pump pulley. Just adding a shoulder will tear up the edge that's in contact with the shoulder but if they machine it so the edge is wider and can shift the mating surface so it matches the other pulley(s) is the best way. If it has a spring-loaded tensioner, making a spacer plate that installs behind the pulley will cure the problem, but longer/different rating bolts will be needed and it may cause bearing failure on the pump because the offset is increased.

Jason99T/A
06-10-2009, 12:09 PM
OK- thanks. Will keep everyone posted on what I find.

Jason99T/A
06-15-2009, 12:53 PM
Just a follow up - the new alternator bracket/water pump pulley fixed the belt issue. I'll get some pictures comparing the two brackets and pullies. I took the boat out yesterday and no problems. :)

hester
06-15-2009, 01:19 PM
Just a follow up - the new alternator bracket/water pump pulley fixed the belt issue. I'll get some pictures comparing the two brackets and pullies. I took the boat out yesterday and no problems. :)

Pics would be great because I'm not sure if mine has been replaced or not. Never had any problems but curious to see the difference. Where did you get the updated bracket?

Jason99T/A
06-15-2009, 01:25 PM
I'll try and get some pics this week.

Bennett's Boat and Ski, our local Mastercraft dealer.

www.skibennetts.com

Honkity Hank
07-06-2010, 06:25 PM
My 2000 Prostar 205 with the LTR motor had a similar failure. The bottom bolt that holds the alternator to the engine bracket had failed left a small 1" stud on the bracket, bolt must be somewhere in the bilge (I did not look for it). The stud eventually vibrated out and the alternator rotated inward (pivoting on the upper bolt) it then started to rub against the tensioner.

My quick fix was to just replace the bolt but I suspect it may need the update bracket as well. Does anyone know what grade bolts I should be using. The bolt that did not fail was marked as ASTM Grade 5.2 and that is what the new bolt is as well. I did not torque the new bolt (not sure I can get my torque wrench on it anyway) will torque the upper bolt before next use though. I assume that the bracket upgrade is needed anyway.

Jason99T/A
07-06-2010, 09:51 PM
My 2000 Prostar 205 with the LTR motor had a similar failure. The bottom bolt that holds the alternator to the engine bracket had failed left a small 1" stud on the bracket, bolt must be somewhere in the bilge (I did not look for it). The stud eventually vibrated out and the alternator rotated inward (pivoting on the upper bolt) it then started to rub against the tensioner.

My quick fix was to just replace the bolt but I suspect it may need the update bracket as well. Does anyone know what grade bolts I should be using. The bolt that did not fail was marked as ASTM Grade 5.2 and that is what the new bolt is as well. I did not torque the new bolt (not sure I can get my torque wrench on it anyway) will torque the upper bolt before next use though. I assume that the bracket upgrade is needed anyway.

The new alternator bracket fixed my problem. I replaced bolts with Grade 8 hardware from a local bolt store. No issues for a year until I sold the boat a few months back.

russlars
07-07-2010, 02:31 AM
I'm pretty sure that is the old bracket and original alternator. When mine broke it was the bottom hole in the alternator which required a new alternator and then they added an extra bracket that hooks to the top bolt and another part of the motor for additional stabilization. I don't have a picture of the new style, but here is the picture of my alternator with the broken bracket.

russlars
07-07-2010, 02:33 AM
Sorry, I forgot to look forward a page. Glad you got yours fixed also!:D

Honkity Hank
07-07-2010, 09:09 AM
I'm pretty sure that is the old bracket and original alternator. When mine broke it was the bottom hole in the alternator which required a new alternator and then they added an extra bracket that hooks to the top bolt and another part of the motor for additional stabilization. I don't have a picture of the new style, but here is the picture of my alternator with the broken bracket.

On my boat the bolt failed not the alternator flange, a new grade 5.2 bolt was only 3 bucks or so, I am afraid that a grade 8 bolt might cause the flange to fail as in your picture. Your top bolt looks to be stamped as a grade 5.2.

I will order the bracket as it seems to recognize that the either a bolt or a flange will fail.

rem_pss308
07-07-2010, 10:13 AM
So does anyone have a picture of the new bracket.

I dont think mine has the new bracket. and it breaks a bolt from time to time.

hester
07-07-2010, 11:17 AM
So does anyone have a picture of the new bracket.

I dont think mine has the new bracket. and it breaks a bolt from time to time.

I installed the bracket several months ago when the lower flange/ear cracked like russlars.

Honkity Hank
07-07-2010, 12:42 PM
Does the bracket only reinforce the top connection? On my boat the top bolt is bigger than the bottom bolt (that failed) I was thinking the bracket would reinforce the lower end. Also on yours does the upper bolt go through the ear and thread into the bracket at the rear? I looks misaligned in the photo.

hester
07-07-2010, 02:20 PM
Does the bracket only reinforce the top connection? On my boat the top bolt is bigger than the bottom bolt (that failed) I was thinking the bracket would reinforce the lower end. Also on yours does the upper bolt go through the ear and thread into the bracket at the rear? I looks misaligned in the photo.

Yes, it only connects to the top only. The goal of the bracket as stated in the recall is to "eliminate the stress that occurs on the alternator mounting system during acceleration and deceleration of the engine or when the boat is being operated in rough-water conditions"

Yes, my bolt does go through and thread into the rear bracket. I'm not sure why mine is off center but the new bracket fit perfectly. Maybe the ear on the new alternator is shaped differently.

rem_pss308
07-07-2010, 11:13 PM
Thanks for the pic. I will be getting one if Baws has one

timvan
07-11-2010, 05:59 PM
Anyone know the size of the lower mounting bolt...the one that mounts the bracket to the block?

Honkity Hank
08-03-2010, 06:13 PM
Did the bracket update on the 2000 prostar 205 this weekend. A big thanks to Chuck at Bay Area Watersports for sending the bracket (and a new glove box shock). The install was super easy, especially when I had my tool box (previous temp fix done with a short supply of tools). I did locktite the bolt on the alternator but not the water pump bolt. Did not have the right socket to torque to spec, will do that next time I take boat out, for now I just tightened down until I thought it was about 25 lbs, no telling what it truly is now.

Thanks again Chuck, appreciate the help!

Jeff - Atlanta

PT 1999 ProStar
08-03-2010, 11:34 PM
Hey guys,

Good read this thread. I have a question does your water pump bounce around like crazy? I have a 1999 ProStar with LTR. I did get the new bracket for the lower part of the water pump which is a two piece connection. However my pump just seems to move way to much! Do you guys have this issue? It makes the boat vibrate alittle. At lower speeds and at idle is when I hear/see it the most.

Any insight? Am I missing anything?


Thanks
PT

JimN
08-03-2010, 11:50 PM
Hey guys,

Good read this thread. I have a question does your water pump bounce around like crazy? I have a 1999 ProStar with LTR. I did get the new bracket for the lower part of the water pump which is a two piece connection. However my pump just seems to move way to much! Do you guys have this issue? It makes the boat vibrate alittle. At lower speeds and at idle is when I hear/see it the most.

Any insight? Am I missing anything?


Thanks
PT

Loosen the three machine screws and shift the raw water pump to a more neutral position.

mcrowe
08-04-2010, 09:12 AM
This is sad, our boat went through about 6-8 alternators over the course of a few years and none of the mechanics could figure it out. And now all of a sudden I found out about a service bulletin addressing the exact issue I had. Great!

mcrowe
08-04-2010, 09:23 AM
This is sad, our boat went through about 6-8 alternators over the course of a few years and none of the mechanics could figure it out. And now all of a sudden I found out about a service bulletin addressing the exact issue I had. Great!

jdhunt0
08-11-2010, 10:11 AM
I received the new bracket and pulley from the dealer Tuesday. I will try to get some pictures of the two pulleys side by side before I install. I hope this is the end of my belt/water pump/alternator trouble.

JimN
08-11-2010, 10:14 AM
This is sad, our boat went through about 6-8 alternators over the course of a few years and none of the mechanics could figure it out. And now all of a sudden I found out about a service bulletin addressing the exact issue I had. Great!

The bulletin was for belts shredding, not alternator failure. How many accessories were added, does it have more batteries and how much current did the added accessories draw? If the bearings went out, it could have been excessive belt tension, too.

jdhunt0
08-11-2010, 10:17 AM
The bulletin was for belts shredding, not alternator failure. How many accessories were added, does it have more batteries and how much current did the added accessories draw? If the bearings went out, it could have been excessive belt tension, too.

An alignment problem will kill accessories. Ask me how I know. :(

JimN
08-11-2010, 10:26 AM
An alignment problem will kill accessories. Ask me how I know. :(

I understand that but I never heard of high numbers of alternators failing because of the alignment issue. Still doesn't make it OK that dealers don't know about the bulletins, though.

rem_pss308
08-11-2010, 10:59 AM
Loosen the three machine screws and shift the raw water pump to a more neutral position.

Does any one have a pic of the three machine screws.

I have a rattle when I idle, and that might be it.

JimN
08-11-2010, 11:34 AM
Does any one have a pic of the three machine screws.

I have a rattle when I idle, and that might be it.

If your raw water pump's machine screws are loose, the pump won't stay on for long because the lock washers won't be able to keep the screws from rotating and once they spin out far enough, they'll bend and break because of the belt tension. Also, the belt tension will decrease and you'll see it flapping.

It's not a photo, but you'll see which ones they are if you look at the link- it's the Indmar operator's manual. On pg 42, Fig.4-6 shows the raw water pump and it has three machine screws, each with a hole next to it.
http://www.indmar.com/About/ContactIndmar/Manual_2003_Presentweb.pdf

jdhunt0
08-11-2010, 11:24 PM
New vs. Old

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/8605/dsc1271.jpg

JimN
08-11-2010, 11:37 PM
"New vs. Old"

Is there a way for you to get a block or two pieces of equal height and lay each on one of them so the mounting surface is at the same level and the offset can be seen?

jdhunt0
08-11-2010, 11:41 PM
I tried. I thought the bottom edge showed it pretty well. The new one has about a 3/32" flange where the old one has none.

jdhunt0
08-13-2010, 06:29 PM
I got everything installed. Man is it hot outside. Anyhow, since the new pulley is smaller than the old, I'm afraid the belt is not tight enough. (I can spin the water pump and alternator by hand under the belt.) I'm headed to the river to try it out, but I suspect I'll be getting a new belt soon.

jdhunt0
08-13-2010, 11:31 PM
As I suspected, the belt slipped. I swapped the original pulley back on so it wouldn't ruin the day. Slippage, gone. Noise, gone. Tracking issues, gone. The little bracket for the alternator works. I feel like I wasted $90 on a pulley and a belt that is too big.

Brian B
05-06-2011, 01:55 AM
Guys! This bracket is going to pinch off my water hose? Any input here?

Thanks. I didnt get any instructions.........

JimN
05-06-2011, 09:00 AM
Guys! This bracket is going to pinch off my water hose? Any input here?

Thanks. I didnt get any instructions.........

If it lines up when it's in the position you show, you should be able to find a spacer to go behind the bracket so the bolt can be tightened without compressing the hose. You'll probably need a longer bolt but that won't be very expensive.

Where did you get the pulley? Did the bracket come with it?

Jeff d
05-06-2011, 05:09 PM
FWIW in other pictures I've seen of the bracket installed it's pushing on the hose some too.

Brian B
05-06-2011, 06:26 PM
I figured it would a little bit. Thats why I put heat shrink tubing over it to keep the sharp edges of the hose. This is way off. I have a call into the dealership but any other input is welcomed.

Thanks :)

Jeff d
05-06-2011, 07:05 PM
If I could get my hands on the stupid bracket I could give you some feedback on how it fits on my '00! Finally got a price from my dealer on the supplemental bracket but I still need a price on the regular bracket. Been working them for 2 weeks through email and phone calls. I can't believe that MasterCraft/Indmar doesn't make a parts fiche available for each engine/boat that they could just look at and say "Oh that's part # blah and it's $42.36".

Jeff d
05-06-2011, 07:07 PM
BTW if anyone could give me a part number for the alternator/tensioner bracket for an '00 230 VRS with LTR I'd be their BFF. Mine has a part number cast into it but apparently that number isn't meaningful.

Jeff d
05-12-2011, 02:02 PM
I just installed the bracket last night.

I think you've got the other end of the bracket on the wrong water pump bolt if it's compressing the hose.

Hogwild
12-20-2012, 05:22 PM
I installed the bracket several months ago when the lower flange/ear cracked like russlars.

Can anyone tell me if this is the bracket referred to above that will fix the problem of the lower flange cracking? The previous owner did not get this installed and it looks as though mine is cracking much like Hester's. I'd prefer to not have my alternator go flying off 8p

http://http://compare.ebay.com/like/220868091891?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

russlars
12-20-2012, 07:37 PM
I had my alternator replaced 3 years ago due to the lower flange being broken. The dealer installed the bracket at the same time and the new one is holding up fine with no sign of any new cracks.

Hogwild
12-20-2012, 07:50 PM
I had my alternator replaced 3 years ago due to the lower flange being broken. The dealer installed the bracket at the same time and the new one is holding up fine with no sign of any new cracks.

I imagine so, but I'm wondering if the using the bracket with a partially cracked flange will prevent me from having to replace the alternator.