View Full Version : Refinishing SKi Platform...
Prostarfam93
06-05-2009, 12:30 PM
I just go done restoring my ski platform, sanded it down and then applies several coats of teak oil. I ended up with a super high gloss finish on it?? It looks great, but was not expecting the high gloss finish from the teak oil? Did I used the wrong stuff? Will the high gloss finish hold up the same? Will it trap water in the wood and ruin it?
Any ideas??
Monte
06-05-2009, 12:36 PM
I just go done restoring my ski platform, sanded it down and then applies several coats of teak oil. I ended up with a super high gloss finish on it?? It looks great, but was not expecting the high gloss finish from the teak oil? Did I used the wrong stuff? Will the high gloss finish hold up the same? Will it trap water in the wood and ruin it?
Any ideas??
Be careful, It will be slick as owl s#!t..
what product did you use?
a lot of use have been brainwashed by harold and use starbrite in the white bottle.:D but it does work great.
Monte
06-05-2009, 12:42 PM
Seriously, What brand did you use?
2010Prostar197
06-05-2009, 01:06 PM
I have used both the Star-Brite Golden oil and the Star-Brite in the white bottle. It seems the golden oil gives the teak better coloring but if you use to much it does get kind of glossy. I have used the white bottle stuff but still prefer the golden.
Maybe I should be using the white bottle instead of the golden? The golden works great on home furniture though...
TMCNo1
06-05-2009, 01:11 PM
WTH, it should be gray, moldy and as shiny as a carpet!
48143
flipper
06-05-2009, 01:14 PM
I have used both the Star-Brite Golden oil and the Star-Brite in the white bottle. It seems the golden oil gives the teak better coloring but if you use to much it does get kind of glossy. I have used the white bottle stuff but still prefer the golden.
Maybe I should be using the white bottle instead of the golden? The golden works great on home furniture though...
I like the golden also, most here use the white bottle though
Gonzo
06-05-2009, 01:19 PM
I got a 2 gallon jug of teak oil from a place close by for 2 bucks. Called TMCno1 and told him about it, hes still not talking to me I think because its not starbrite :)
flipper
06-05-2009, 01:34 PM
I got a 2 gallon jug of teak oil from a place close by for 2 bucks. Called TMCno1 and told him about it, hes still not talking to me I think because its not starbrite :)
I'm not sure he ever will again now:rolleyes:
TMCNo1
06-05-2009, 02:08 PM
I'm not sure he ever will again now:rolleyes:
:uglyhammeGonzo's OK, just a bit misguided! He can always use it on the exterior of the outhouse!
flipper
06-05-2009, 02:11 PM
:uglyhammeGonzo's OK, just a bit misguided! He can always use it on the exterior of the outhouse!
Or the interior:D
Jim@BAWS
06-05-2009, 02:25 PM
Or the interior:D
Or the seat
flipper
06-05-2009, 02:29 PM
Gonzo, just drink the bottle and spray an even coat all over the whole thing
Prostarfam93
06-05-2009, 03:08 PM
Heres what it looks like...
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=40&pictureid=186
Chicago190
06-05-2009, 03:15 PM
Heres what it looks like...
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=40&pictureid=186
How long had the oil been curing when the picture was taken? If you don't want it to look as shiny you could try sanding with a fine grit sand paper, that may take some of the shine out.
Prostarfam93
06-05-2009, 03:32 PM
about 24 hours......
Gonzo
06-05-2009, 03:58 PM
Gonzo, just drink the bottle and spray an even coat all over the whole thing
Im confused, am i spraying the platform, the outhouse or the teak? I guess for a dollar a gallon I could do all 3. Better get some antibiotic while I am at it, this could burn a little.
Chicago190
06-05-2009, 06:04 PM
about 24 hours......
Did you want it to come out the flat brown color of the new teak platforms?
spanielman50
06-07-2009, 01:02 AM
keep that oil off my GOODE
JLeuck64
06-07-2009, 01:13 AM
Heres what it looks like...
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=40&pictureid=186
It probably won't look that good after it gets wet a couple of times...
Just run with it!;)
Chicago190
06-07-2009, 02:06 PM
keep that oil off my GOODE
Maybe teak oil will prevent your Goode from prematurely delaminating?
spanielman50
06-07-2009, 10:14 PM
DELAMINATING don't scare me with that after paying a goode price tag.
9900 goode wide ride----priceless,,,,,,,,,get out of minocqua and drive one hour east
and i'll give you a pull
Chicago190
06-07-2009, 10:26 PM
DELAMINATING don't scare me with that after paying a goode price tag.
9900 goode wide ride----priceless,,,,,,,,,get out of minocqua and drive one hour east
and i'll give you a pull
Ha, good one about the price tag.
Go check out www.thewaterskiforum.com and read some stories about Goode. Great to ski, questionable build quality, and the worst customer service in the business.
Edit: No offense meant. I've never had an experience with Goode, but I've heard some horror stories. Glad to see another Northwoods skier.
jbanczak
06-08-2009, 12:56 PM
Does anyone else use straight Linsead oil? I've tried a numer of different options over the past 12 years. Had a salt-water based sailboat with a lot of teak. Found Linsead oil was the best option. By far the most affordable, easy to work with, natural, and seems to go well with the teak. I do my swim deck every year, and it takes about an hour total to wash/scrub, let it dry, and put on the linsead. Lasts all summer long, no slip, looks great.
I've heard 100% tung oil is better, but i can't tell the difference. I've heard that linsead darkens the teak, and it seems to, but not that much and it looks very rich.
ski_king
06-08-2009, 01:21 PM
Both Starbrite Teak oils and most other brands are just a mixture of linseed oil and kerosene.
jbanczak
06-09-2009, 11:04 AM
I've heard that the Kerosene and other additives are to make it dry more quickly, and have more shine. Two things that are not necessary, and quadruple the cost from good 'ole fashion Linsead you can get at Home Depot.
TMCNo1
06-09-2009, 11:50 AM
http://www.am-wood.com/finishes/oil.html
The oil finish is one of the most traditional approaches to completing your project. While it does not provide as much protection as more modern finishes such as varnishing, oil finishes bring out the natural beauty of the wood better. If you want to stain the wood prior to oiling it, use a water-based stain as oil-based dyes will clog-up the wood's pores, thus stopping the oil finish from soaking in effectively.
Safety Note: Never leave an oily cloth rolled up. As the oil oxidizes it generates heat and it is not unusual for the cloth to spontaneously combust. Even if you intend to throw the used cloths away, you must first allow them to dry, unrolled, outside.
There are four main types of oil covered below: linseed, Danish, teak and mineral. We also include a reader review of Organoil.
Linseed Oil
A linseed finish takes a considerable amount of time to dry and new wood will need several coats in order to produce a satisfactory finish. Boiled linseed oil takes "only" one day to dry and, as such, is a more popular option. Pure linseed oil takes about three days to dry, but provides better protection. Neither type of linseed oil is suitable for outdoor projects.
Apply the oil with a cloth and rub well into the wood. Leave at least 24 hours between applications. Once you are satisfied with the finish, buff with a soft cloth.
Danish and Teak Oils
Danish and Teak oils take less time to dry than linseed (thank goodness) and also provide a more resilient finish. Both oils are better suited to new projects than linseed, and it is best to relegate linseed to the older projects that already have linseed on them. Teak oil provides a slight surface sheen while Danish oil leaves a low luster.
Apply these oils with a soft cloth of brush and do not apply too much oil at a time (as it will not soak in). In between coats of oil, sand the wood down with a fine silicon-carbide paper. Typically, it is best to use four coats of oil.
Mineral Oil
Mineral oil is a laxative that is readily available from any chemist. Although this will not provide the same level of sheen as the above oils, it is ideal for projects such as cutting boards when you need a non-toxic substance.
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Linseed Oil, $6.25 qt., http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=145&engine=yahoo!6457&keyword=linseed_oil_finish (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=145&engine=yahoo%216457&keyword=linseed_oil_finish)
Teak Oil, $14.05 qt., http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Bowld-81632-Teak-Oil/dp/B001AJ7O5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1244558607&sr=1-3
Priceless, still using off of one quart for over 13 years,
48239
jbanczak
06-09-2009, 01:58 PM
I've read both ways - but if you use Linseed, it definitely needs to be done every year. I've used true "Teak Oils" though and found that they needed every year anyway...
mzito
08-08-2010, 11:10 PM
Does anyone else use straight Linsead oil? I've tried a numer of different options over the past 12 years. Had a salt-water based sailboat with a lot of teak. Found Linsead oil was the best option. By far the most affordable, easy to work with, natural, and seems to go well with the teak. I do my swim deck every year, and it takes about an hour total to wash/scrub, let it dry, and put on the linsead. Lasts all summer long, no slip, looks great.
I've heard 100% tung oil is better, but i can't tell the difference. I've heard that linsead darkens the teak, and it seems to, but not that much and it looks very rich.
Linseed is all I use. It will last the entire season and only takes a few min to reapply the following year. Also, it does not make the platform slick.
my .02
MZ