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PolarBear
05-30-2009, 09:05 PM
Can someone point me to a thread that has a "how to" for removing a velvet drive 71C 1017 transmission? I've looked for an hour and can't find what I'm looking for.

I have the prop shaft disconnected.

Do I disconnect the cooling lines first?
Do I have to drain the fluid out before I pull it off?

I know about the bottle jacks under the manifolds and saw that picture thread.

A step by step thread would be great. Thought I saw one a day ago?

JimN
05-30-2009, 09:32 PM
If you leave the oil cooler attached, you can drain it after you remove it. You'll need to support the rear of the motor, unbolt the transmission from the bell housing, unbolt the mounts from the stringers, remove any harnesses, linkage or other accessory attachments and if you're string, you can remove it yourself but having two people makes it a lot better. Can you post some photos of the boat, from the front, side and above the transmission?

PolarBear
05-31-2009, 11:49 AM
Gladly! Here are the pics of where I'm at. Take a look at the bottle jack location. I haven't raised it yet but that is where it would fit best. Is that too far forward? I can't find a location further back to get it into. Also, I'm hoping to not have to take out the exhaust any further than where I'm at.

Do I remove engine mount bolts, then bottle jack slightly, then remove 2 bolts on each side of transmission, remove mounts, then take off all 6 transmission bolts?

JimN
05-31-2009, 12:03 PM
Gladly! Here are the pics of where I'm at. Take a look at the bottle jack location. I haven't raised it yet but that is where it would fit best. Is that too far forward? I can't find a location further back to get it into. Also, I'm hoping to not have to take out the exhaust any further than where I'm at.

Do I remove engine mount bolts, then bottle jack slightly, then remove 2 bolts on each side of transmission, remove mounts, then take off all 6 transmission bolts?

What is that, a Malibu or Tige? 8p

If you can keep the bottle jack from slipping out, I guess that place should work but I found that it was easier to work on if the engine support was in the bilge, directly under the rear, like at the back edge of the oil pan. You don't need to unbolt the motor mounts, just the two for the transmission. Once the four bolts are out, you should be able to lift the rear of the motor slightly (by loosening the front mount struts) to slide a rear support in but you want the load to be distributed over a wide area, not at small points- two pieces of 1x pine and a piece of 2x4 should do it. Even if you only rotate it 10, the room you gain is invaluable. Removing more of the exhaust will give you more room to work in but that's your call.

PolarBear
05-31-2009, 09:09 PM
Thank Jim. Great tips. I'm going to remove exhaust and make more room and do as you said. P.S. It's a Gekko.

PolarBear
06-02-2009, 12:00 AM
Thought I would update where I'm at with pulling off the transmission and show pics and some of my instructions since other people's helped me so much.

1. I ended up removing the exhaust, much easier to get at everything and highly recommend that.
2. I sucked out all the transmission fluid I could through the dipstick with a fluid sucker thingy. :)
3. I removed the oil cooler lines and let them drain (not much fluid left in those)
4. I removed the electrical wires for the nuetral lock?, pic below.
5. I unscrewed the top engine mount bolts (the back ones) so I could see the engine lifting and know the weight was off the transmission mounts before I removed all 4 of those (2 on each one).
6. I loosened the pinch mounts on the front engine mounts so it could rock up when I lifted.
7. I put bottle jacks on each side in a location where I didn't think it would slip.
8. I started jacking each jack a little at a time until I saw the engine lift up from the back mounts.
9. Unbolted 2 trans mounts on each side of transmission and removed them.
10. Removed all 4 bolts and 2 nuts from transmission.
11. Lightly hammered on transmission to get it to separate. Mine did it pretty easily.
12. Lifted and slipped the transmission off (50-60 lbs?)

Questions: Should I spray WD-40 on the dampner plate so it doesn't rust any further or does that need to be grease / oil free?

Here are pics of process (only 5 files per reply, I'll do another reply):

PolarBear
06-02-2009, 12:07 AM
Forgot to mention. I marked EVERYTHING with a sharpie. I marked the nut locations for the engine mounts, drew alignment lines, numbered every bolt / nut and corresponding location on the housings so I put everything back exactly the same. I went marking crazy because I'm a newbie at this. Here's the rest of the pics. I'll try to take pics of the actual transmission rebuild too.

CantRepeat
06-02-2009, 08:46 AM
Are you going to rebuild it yourself or have it done?

454Prostar190
06-02-2009, 11:46 AM
Polar Bear,

Nice work on this thread. Rick

Whitfield
06-02-2009, 11:27 PM
Looking great... Thanks for the pics [Thumbsup]

I might have (2) to do myself.

PolarBear
06-03-2009, 11:35 PM
I'm going to rebuild myself with a buddy. He's done harder transmissions before (automobiles), but never one of these. I've got the rebuild manual, looks fairly straightforward. I'll take as many pics and diagram as much as possible for future tranny mechanics.

Just trying to give back to this site and all the people that have posted before and taught me! I owe all of them a big THANK YOU!

Can't wait to get on the water!!

PB