PDA

View Full Version : Engine Dies At Idle


coz
05-29-2009, 06:21 PM
Go to fire the boat and it just cranked, then when I gave it a little throttle it fires and runs but when I click it back to neutral it dies. Last weekend when we first launched it did the same thing so I reved it a few and it was fine after that. I need to figure out what's up, any ideas? where should I start? and no, the tank wasn't ran below 1/4.

5.7 Vortec EFI

Thanks for any help.

coz
05-31-2009, 09:34 AM
Bump!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3632/3577137382_0440ae395e_b.jpg

CantRepeat
05-31-2009, 09:56 AM
Bump!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3632/3577137382_0440ae395e_b.jpg

That's a motor all right! Is it carb or TBI?

dummy
05-31-2009, 10:13 AM
Damn, Coz, your season is off to a rough start. First the tranny leak, now this?

Is it TBI or MPI? I'm sure JimN or somebody more experienced will pipe up with some better info, but until then:

1) Fuel Filter plugged
2) Fuel Pump output low
3) Alternator output low
4) Idle Air Control sensor bad
5) IAC port window blocked or gunked up (remove the throttle body, look for the little hole, spray some throttle body cleaner down there. May want to remove the sensor first.)

Hopefully that'll keep you busy 'till somebody with better suggestions chimes in.

Good luck. Sucks being broken when the water calls.

coz
05-31-2009, 10:18 AM
That's a motor all right! Is it carb or TBI?

If TBI is the same as EFI then that's what it is :o

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2482/3576332725_bd9ca03ed2_b.jpg

I don't know jack about engines but my son inlaw does so I'm looking for some pointers, like where the fuel line filters are and spark arrester screen because it fires but seems like it might be starved for fuel at idle, I dunno? does this sound right?

coz
05-31-2009, 10:21 AM
Damn, Coz, your season is off to a rough start. First the tranny leak, now this?

Is it TBI or MPI? I'm sure JimN or somebody more experienced will pipe up with some better info, but until then:

1) Fuel Filter plugged
2) Fuel Pump output low
3) Alternator output low
4) Idle Air Control sensor bad
5) IAC port window blocked or gunked up (remove the throttle body, look for the little hole, spray some throttle body cleaner down there. May want to remove the sensor first.)

Hopefully that'll keep you busy 'till somebody with better suggestions chimes in.

Good luck. Sucks being broken when the water calls.

Thanks dummy, yes it does suck but kinda goes with the territory though. I appreciate that, now I just have to find those spots :o

dummy
05-31-2009, 10:33 AM
That's the fuel filter right there on the back of the engine. Below the filter is the Schraeder valve to release pressure. TBI is a low pressure injection, but you still don't want fuel spraying when you crack the fitting line. Put a shop rag over the fitting, depress the valve just like you're letting air out of a tire, and release any pressure in the line. Then you can swap out that fuel filter.

Fuel pump is gonna be in-tank. I don't know if there's a voltage check you can do to verify it's good or not. However, if you nab a fuel pressure gauge at an auto parts store (get one good for EFI 'cause most carb pressures top out at below 10psi) you'll just screw the fitting right onto that Schraeder valve. Again, I don't know the exact pressure a TBI pump should put out, but I bet it's between 13-18 psi.

If the pump specs out good, pop off the plastic cover, remove the air filter, and stare down the throttle body. You'll see 2 little pods on top of the throttle body. Those are the injectors. You can take 'em out to flush the throttle body with aerosol cleaner. You'll probably need some Torx bits. Be careful you don't harm the O-rings when you're removing the injectors. There's also a mesh screen on the bottom of the injector. Check for any particles or debris that could've found its way in. The fuel filter will prevent most stuff, but what can happen is the fuel can varnish over winter storage and then sort of flake off when you're driving.

Got some photos somewhere I'll try to dig up to help with the visuals. It'll be on a Jeep engine, but it's basically the same thing.

However, like I said, somebody will probably be along to let you know what it really is. I'm just keeping you busy 'till then.

dummy
05-31-2009, 10:35 AM
Also:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=25857&highlight=vortec+engine

dummy
05-31-2009, 10:43 AM
Jeep 4cyl throttle body just for example. Yours will have 2 injectors, not just 1:

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd176/chinhazel/IMG_1839.jpg
Remove the filter housing

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd176/chinhazel/IMG_1840.jpg
Unclip the electrical connection

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd176/chinhazel/IMG_1841.jpg
Remove the Torx screws and retainer clip. GENTLY pry throttle body from bore

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd176/chinhazel/JPMP-090300-WHY-14.jpg
Check screen for debris, clean throttle body bore/orifices with throttle body cleaner

Still, my money is on a bad IAC.

coz
05-31-2009, 11:14 AM
Jeep 4cyl throttle body just for example. Yours will have 2 injectors, not just 1:


Remove the filter housing


Unclip the electrical connection


Remove the Torx screws and retainer clip. GENTLY pry throttle body from bore


Check screen for debris, clean throttle body bore/orifices with throttle body cleaner

Still, my money is on a bad IAC.

Thanks for the visiuals man :headbang: now about those hands :confused: you gotta get some lotion on them babies :D

JimN
05-31-2009, 11:22 AM
Go to fire the boat and it just cranked, then when I gave it a little throttle it fires and runs but when I click it back to neutral it dies. Last weekend when we first launched it did the same thing so I reved it a few and it was fine after that. I need to figure out what's up, any ideas? where should I start? and no, the tank wasn't ran below 1/4.

5.7 Vortec EFI

Thanks for any help.

You don't have the in-tank pump so the 1/4 rule doesn't apply to yours. Check the fuel pressure, which should be in the 30 pounds range, at key ON, idle 3000RPM and WOT. As posted, remove the black plastic shroud and you'll see the flame arrestor. Remove the black hose clipped onto it and take it out. Use whatever carb cleaner you like, spraying from the inside. You may also have a second filter at the tank, so you'll want to check there, too. Also, you have an anti-siphon valve on the same fitting the fuel line attaches to at the tank. That may have a fitting with a little lever on it- make sure the lever is inline with the fuel line.

Also, on the fuel pickup, the tube may have a screen at the bottom, in the tank. Make sure that's clear of any obstructions. If it doesn't have a screen, it will have a coiled wire spring in it, which serves the same purpose. Before you do anything else, run it for a few minutes and open the fuel filler cap- if there's any kind of air rushing sould, the vent line is probably clogged.

coz
05-31-2009, 11:29 AM
Here's a couple shots for anyone to use for future reference and to keep it site related and worthy :worthy:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3609/3582011006_875579bf06_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3336/3582011228_f1f54a45f3_b.jpg

coz
05-31-2009, 11:30 AM
You don't have the in-tank pump so the 1/4 rule doesn't apply to yours. Check the fuel pressure.

See ya learn something new everyday :o thanks Jim :worthy:

That's funny, you know how many trips we had to cut short in the last 3 years because of "dudes gotta get back to the dock, almost at a 1/4 tank"? :D

CantRepeat
05-31-2009, 12:03 PM
Strange, did they ever used injector pod spacers from the factory?

And wow, the zip tie on the injector wires is making me scared. It may never fail and get suck in the intake but wow.

JimN
05-31-2009, 12:15 PM
Hey- bad news! It doesn't look like yours has the Shrader valve, which means you can't check the fuel pressure without a special fitting. You'll want to have one installed and no, you don't want to cut the fuel line, splice in a piece of rubber line with a Shrader valve because if you do it that way, we'll be reading about your boat burning up. Go to this website (you're in the PHX area, right?) and find a shop that specializes in auto fuel systems:
http://www.yourautonetwork.com/home.html

If Cary still owned his shop, I would tell you to go there but you may still call them- it's called Diamond Custom Automotive and it's off of HWY 60 in Apache Junction, near the Idaho Ave exit. You could see it from the freeway the last time I was out there. You'll want to have a new line made up with the valve in place and it's the one coming from the top of the pump. In the meantime, with the flame arrestor off, start it and look at the shape of the fuel spray- if it's a continuous cone with no gaps, the injectors are clear and shouldn't be the cause. If there are gaps, you'll need to send some fuel system cleaner through but do this before you change the filter(s). The cleaner tends to loosen stuff in the tank that was happy where it was and this clogs filters. If you used some immediately before the problem occurred, change the filter(s) and it should be much better.

Get a scan tool (or paperclip) and connect from pin A to pin B on the Assembly Line Data Link connector (ALDL), turn the key ON and watch the check engine light flashes. It should flash 12 (one flash, short pause, two flashes, longer pause) and then it will either flash 12 again (no codes) or some other number which, if it's the ECT, will be 14 or 15 (most likely 15 if you need ). The link below shows this, too.

One other thing that can cause this kind of thing is a bad ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor registering hot, especially is if it shows that it's too cold. This will tell the ECM to enrich out the mixture and make it hard to start but cracking the throttle adds air, so the ratio is more correct. IIRC, the resistance being below about 185 Ohms when it's cold (ambient temperature) means the ECT sensor is bad. This won't show up on the dash gauge because that has it's own sensor. The one you want to look for has a two wire harness, with one black and one yellow wire. It's either at the front of the intake manifold near the thermostat or on the side of the motor and the wires will be covered by black loom, like the rest. If you have a multi-meter, remove the plug and set the meter to OHMS, measuring from one pin to the other. The higher the reading when cold, the better.

Use this link for troubleshooting since it has the temperature/resistance chart:
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/diagnostictroblecodes5.html

JimN
05-31-2009, 12:17 PM
Strange, did they ever used injector pod spacers from the factory?

And wow, the zip tie on the injector wires is making me scared. It may never fail and get suck in the intake but wow.

I wouldn't worry about a plastic zip tie getting sucked in. At high RPM, it would be toast in less than a second. It's not the ideal scenario but worse things could fall in there.

CantRepeat
05-31-2009, 12:30 PM
In his last photo there is a black piece of plactic under the injector pod. It's a spacer I've been reading about that raises the injectors up and makes a few extra HP. Did they install those at the factory, ever?

coz
05-31-2009, 12:32 PM
Hey- bad news! It doesn't look like yours has the Shrader valve, which means you can't check the fuel pressure without a special fitting. You'll want to have one installed and no, you don't want to cut the fuel line, splice in a piece of rubber line with a Shrader valve because if you do it that way, we'll be reading about your boat burning up. Go to this website (you're in the PHX area, right?) and find a shop that specializes in auto fuel systems:
http://www.yourautonetwork.com/home.html

If Cary still owned his shop, I would tell you to go there but you may still call them- it's called Diamond Custom Automotive and it's off of HWY 60 in Apache Junction, near the Idaho Ave exit. You could see it from the freeway the last time I was out there. You'll want to have a new line made up with the valve in place and it's the one coming from the top of the pump. In the meantime, with the flame arrestor off, start it and look at the shape of the fuel spray- if it's a continuous cone with no gaps, the injectors are clear and shouldn't be the cause. If there are gaps, you'll need to send some fuel system cleaner through but do this before you change the filter(s). The cleaner tends to loosen stuff in the tank that was happy where it was and this clogs filters. If you used some immediately before the problem occurred, change the filter(s) and it should be much better.

Get a scan tool (or paperclip) and connect from pin A to pin B on the Assembly Line Data Link connector (ALDL), turn the key ON and watch the check engine light flashes. It should flash 12 (one flash, short pause, two flashes, longer pause) and then it will either flash 12 again (no codes) or some other number which, if it's the ECT, will be 14 or 15 (most likely 15 if you need ). The link below shows this, too.

One other thing that can cause this kind of thing is a bad ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor registering hot, especially is if it shows that it's too cold. This will tell the ECM to enrich out the mixture and make it hard to start but cracking the throttle adds air, so the ratio is more correct. IIRC, the resistance being below about 185 Ohms when it's cold (ambient temperature) means the ECT sensor is bad. This won't show up on the dash gauge because that has it's own sensor. The one you want to look for has a two wire harness, with one black and one yellow wire. It's either at the front of the intake manifold near the thermostat or on the side of the motor and the wires will be covered by black loom, like the rest. If you have a multi-meter, remove the plug and set the meter to OHMS, measuring from one pin to the other. The higher the reading when cold, the better.

Use this link for troubleshooting since it has the temperature/resistance chart:
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/diag...blecodes5.html

Hey! thanks for the long type and all that info :headbang:


I wouldn't worry about a plastic zip tie getting sucked in. At high RPM, it would be toast in less than a second. It's not the ideal scenario but worse things could fall in there.

That came from the factory like that.

BTW: When it started to act funny last weekend I had one eye on the temp gauge and the other on the water and it never got above normal

CantRepeat
05-31-2009, 12:34 PM
Jim, don't they make a fitting that will allow connecting a fuel gauge to it?

JimN
05-31-2009, 12:46 PM
Hey! thanks for the long type and all that info :headbang:




That came from the factory like that.

BTW: When it started to act funny last weekend I had one eye on the temp gauge and the other on the water and it never got above normal

As I posted, the gauge won't show the same as the ECT, which ONLY connects to the ECM.

JimN
05-31-2009, 12:48 PM
Jim, don't they make a fitting that will allow connecting a fuel gauge to it?

They didn't all come with it and I didn't see one in his photos. If it has one, great. I was basing that post on him not having it. A '98 should have it but you never know. If he posts a photo of the lower fuel line, it'll answer the question, though.

JimN
05-31-2009, 12:49 PM
In his last photo there is a black piece of plactic under the injector pod. It's a spacer I've been reading about that raises the injectors up and makes a few extra HP. Did they install those at the factory, ever?

I never noticed it, and I never looked. They did have some turbulence issues at about 4300RPM, though, and that would be a good fix for it. I'm going to look for that on my truck today.

coz
05-31-2009, 01:21 PM
If he posts a photo of the lower fuel line, it'll answer the question, though.

Does this help?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3637/3581544715_0c2e4298be_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2455/3581545025_fc0c8e6756_b.jpg

JimN
05-31-2009, 02:09 PM
That's your Shrader valve and it's supposed to have a black cap on it. I bought my fuel pressure gauge at Autozone but they sell the same on at Sears. It has a bleeder valve on it and a clear vinyl tube, which can be used to take a fuel sample, which I also advise doing. Use a clean, clear plastic bottle from water, Pepsi, or whatever to collect the gas. If it looks cloudy, has water droplets or sediment, you'll know that your fuel and filters are at fault. I think Autozone and some others lend tools, too but it's a good think to have.

coz
05-31-2009, 02:23 PM
That's your Shrader valve and it's supposed to have a black cap on it.

I was wondering how the he!! that valve stem cap got in there :o

Thanks Jim :D

chico
05-31-2009, 03:48 PM
That fuel pump has a screen at the inlet,it would`nt hurt to take it off and clean it.

TMCNo1
05-31-2009, 04:30 PM
I was wondering how the he!! that valve stem cap got in there :o

Thanks Jim :D


Musta fell off one'a yur toobs?:rolleyes::D

coz
05-31-2009, 05:04 PM
Musta fell off one'a yur toobs?:rolleyes::D

Nope!.............we use these on the toobs..............got em from Tom :headbang:

http://s2.thisnext.com/media/230x230/Skull-Air-Valve-Stem-Caps_7F7E2697.jpg

coz
05-31-2009, 08:11 PM
It looks like I have good flow coming from the injectors (cone shape) but it looks like the the fuel is building up and the intake flaps aren't opening. Idle sensor was mentioned, where is that? this sounds like where I need to go. Could you explain or save the pic and put a pointer where the sensor is? thanks for the help :D

chico
05-31-2009, 09:38 PM
Standing at the back of the engine,the idle air control is on the right side of the throttle body,it has 4 wires going to it,it is held in by two torx screws,if you shine a light in the top while it is starting you should see the pintle hunt for the right position,you can remove it and check for debris in the seat.

JimN
05-31-2009, 10:02 PM
It looks like I have good flow coming from the injectors (cone shape) but it looks like the the fuel is building up and the intake flaps aren't opening. Idle sensor was mentioned, where is that? this sounds like where I need to go. Could you explain or save the pic and put a pointer where the sensor is? thanks for the help :D

You will generally have some liquid fuel of the throttle plates but when it's idling, the air speed causes it to atomize well enough to run. At higher RPM, the air speed is even higher, so it still atomizes pretty evenly.

It's not an idle sensor, it's the IAC, or Idle Air Control, which allows enough air for the motor to remain at about 600RPM unless the throttle is opened and at that time, the TPS will move past 2%, which is the threshold for the ECM to know it's no longer at idle. Anything more than 2% is not idle and at that point, the MAP sensor is in charge of telling the ECM about the engine's load. The TPS does, however, tell the ECM to go into acceleration enrichment or deceleration enleanment mode for the fuel delivery if there's ≥20% delta in position in a short time period, +20% for acceleration and -20% for deceleration. If you look at post #12, the IAC is at the rear of the throttle body on the left side, at a slight angle. The regulator is immediately behind the injectors, in the middle, and the IAC is slightly behind that.

When you do the fuel pressure check, make sure that you don't just do it with the key ON and at idle- it needs to be done at speed and the standard speeds are 2000RPM and WOT. This is important and if you see drastic drops in pressure, it could be the regulator, a fuel line blockage or the pump. The fact that you need to crack the throttle to get it to run usually indicates too much fuel from the ETC resistance being too high or the IAC not operating correctly.

Look on the throttle body for a cylindrical piece with a four wire harness. It will have a green/white and green/black pair and a blue/white and blue/black pair. With the engine off/key off, look into the throttle body for a vaguely triangular opening where the end of this cylinder would be. You'll need enough light to see in, so if you need a flashlight, use one. Turn the key ON and watch for the end of this to move. If it doesn't move, turn the key OFF and watch for movement. If it still doesn't move, make sure the plug is seated well. If it never moves, unplug the harness and using your multimeter set to DC Volts, connect the leads to each pair of wires and have someone turn the key on. The voltage won't be there for long- just long enough for the tip, called the pintle, to move into place for starting. If you don't see voltage on that pair when the key is turned on, have them turn it off and see if you get voltage. Repeat this for each pair- you should have voltage on one pair when you turn it on and on the other pair when you turn it off. When the motor is running, this opens and closes, depending on throttle movement, more when the movement is drastic.

I'm not sure why I didn't think of the IAC- maybe because I rarely had problems with them. If you have a MC dealer close to you, you might want to have them connect it to their diagnostic computer and check the sensors, check for codes and so they can "repark" the IAC. It can only be reparked with the diagnostic computer and you don't want to move the pintle manually because it can be damaged. You can remove the IAC and look for movement if needed- it will still operate because it doesn't need chassis ground.

If you see no voltage on the IAC wires, disconnect the battery, unplug the ECM and look for the ends of those wires so you can do a continuity check. If the wires have no problems, such as bad terminals, pins of the ECM or IAC and they test OK for continuity, the problem would be in the ECM and this can't be repaired.

coz
05-31-2009, 11:11 PM
With the engine off/key off, look into the throttle body for a vaguely triangular opening where the end of this cylinder would be. You'll need enough light to see in, so if you need a flashlight, use one. Turn the key ON and watch for the end of this to move. If it doesn't move, turn the key OFF and watch for movement. If it still doesn't move, make sure the plug is seated well. If it never moves,

Wow! I think I get it, I didn't see it move at all, my son inlaw will be here tomorrow with the volt meter. Are these a skidim buy? (IAC) I couldn't find them.

JimN
05-31-2009, 11:48 PM
I don't know why you would go to them for a Chevy motor part.

CantRepeat
06-01-2009, 08:47 AM
Coz is you boat a 98? You could probably get the part cheaper from Napa using the application of a 98 full size pick up. The electronics should be the same. I know someone had a Napa part numbers post on here. I'm not sure it had your IAC listed but same type of deal.

coz
06-01-2009, 09:08 AM
I don't know why you would go to them for a Chevy motor part.

Coz is you boat a 98? You could probably get the part cheaper from Napa using the application of a 98 full size pick up. The electronics should be the same. I know someone had a Napa part numbers post on here. I'm not sure it had your IAC listed but same type of deal.

Yes it's a 98 and I didn't even think of chevy or napa :o

JimN
06-01-2009, 12:28 PM
Yes it's a 98 and I didn't even think of chevy or napa :o

The only real marine parts that are on the motor are the oil cooler, raw water pump, closed cooling it if has it and exhaust manifolds, although the intake is not a standard auto part, I wouldn't have a problem if it was easy to get because it flows very well. Other than that, they get the motors from GM, make up a harness and mounts for the sensors and ECM, mount the other accessories and paint it. Development is another story but if they find a part that's better for the application, like the intake manifold on the TBI and a few other parts, it's all stock GM parts. Sensors are GM, tune-up parts (other than the Taylor plug wires) are OEM (although I have had good luck with Borg-Warner Gold series- it comes with a lifetime warranty) and it's all common stuff.

coz
06-01-2009, 05:47 PM
I'm not sure why I didn't think of the IAC- maybe because I rarely had problems with them. If you have a MC dealer close to you, you might want to have them connect it to their diagnostic computer and check the sensors, check for codes and so they can "repark" the IAC. It can only be reparked with the diagnostic computer and you don't want to move the pintle manually because it can be damaged. You can remove the IAC and look for movement if needed- it will still operate because it doesn't need chassis ground.

.

So are you saying if I just replace the IAC I'll need a diag computer to dial it in? I can't just plug & go?

JimN
06-01-2009, 06:37 PM
So are you saying if I just replace the IAC I'll need a diag computer to dial it in? I can't just plug & go?

What I think you might want to do is take the IAC to a NAPA store and see if they can check it. If they can't, maybe you have a GM dealer that will do it for you.

The reason I mentioned the diagnostic computer is that it can repark the IAC, in case it's not in the correct position. It's supposed to back out after closing when the key is turned off and if it doesn't back out fully, you'll have the same problem you described. It could be that the open function is bad but the reason I'd like to have it checked is that you won't be able to return it if it's not the problem and it's probably close to $100. Diagnostics it mostly testing, in order to rule out the variables that don't matter, so the one you have really needs to be checked out to rule out the ECM or harness.

coz
06-01-2009, 07:02 PM
What I think you might want to do is take the IAC to a NAPA store and see if they can check it. If they can't, maybe you have a GM dealer that will do it for you.

The reason I mentioned the diagnostic computer is that it can repark the IAC, in case it's not in the correct position. It's supposed to back out after closing when the key is turned off and if it doesn't back out fully, you'll have the same problem you described. It could be that the open function is bad but the reason I'd like to have it checked is that you won't be able to return it if it's not the problem and it's probably close to $100. Diagnostics it mostly testing, in order to rule out the variables that don't matter, so the one you have really needs to be checked out to rule out the ECM or harness.

We checked it with a volt meter and it's doing what you said, getting power but the pintle isn't opening or even moving for that matter. I'll remove the IAC and see if I can get it checked.

JimN
06-01-2009, 07:42 PM
We checked it with a volt meter and it's doing what you said, getting power but the pintle isn't opening or even moving for that matter. I'll remove the IAC and see if I can get it checked.

Maybe "percussive diagnostics" is in order. Take it out and rap it firmly on its side, but not hard enough to dent it.

coz
06-02-2009, 10:12 AM
Maybe "percussive diagnostics" is in order. Take it out and rap it firmly on its side, but not hard enough to dent it.

I tried this and I think I f'dup :eek: I took it out and did a couple light taps on it, pluged it in without putting it back in the hole, turned the key to on and it started moving slowly then popped completely out of the unit, spring and all :eek: put it back together and reinstalled it and now no movement :cry:

JimN
06-02-2009, 01:12 PM
I tried this and I think I f'dup :eek: I took it out and did a couple light taps on it, pluged it in without putting it back in the hole, turned the key to on and it started moving slowly then popped completely out of the unit, spring and all :eek: put it back together and reinstalled it and now no movement :cry:

If you installed the pintle slowly, it should be OK. Unplug it, turn the key to ON and plug it in again after the key has been on for about 15 seconds. Plug it in again and turn the key OFF, watching for movement. It should try to push it until it's closed, then open a bit.

coz
06-02-2009, 02:18 PM
If you installed the pintle slowly, it should be OK. Unplug it, turn the key to ON and plug it in again after the key has been on for about 15 seconds. Plug it in again and turn the key OFF, watching for movement. It should try to push it until it's closed, then open a bit.

I've decided to take it in instead of going from part to part when like you said, the computer will tell what's up. Thanks for all the help and info guys I appreciate that. :headbang:

Sodar
06-02-2009, 02:20 PM
Just saw your post on RDP. Have you called your buddies over at MC Boats of Arizona? Maybe they can get you in quicker than 1 month...

coz
06-09-2009, 02:59 PM
Just saw your post on RDP. Have you called your buddies over at MC Boats of Arizona? Maybe they can get you in quicker than 1 month...

It took them 5 hours to return my call and by then I had my answer and appointment with Malibu.

I just got a call today from Dustin and it is the IAC, they told me it was on back order with indmar and all the local dealers but if I could find one at NAPA or the likes I could bring it to them and they'd install it no problem to get the boat out quicker or I cam wait 7 days for the back order, I'm on my way to NAPA right now :D I'm more than sure there isn't a dealer out there that would let you bring parts to them to install :confused: I know damn sure our MC dealer wouldn't :D BTW: mine isn't the only MC at Paradise, there's a few between all the BU's, I'm pretty sure I know why too and Dustin does too because he had no comment only a smile :D

Jim, thanks again for all the help, you are truely an asset to this site.

JimN
06-09-2009, 04:37 PM
If you removed the old one and reinstalled it, there's really no reason you can't install the new one, although the "other" dealer should be able to repark it so you're starting from scratch. They can also function the IAC with the Tech 1 (if they still have one) or the PC diagnostics.

coz
06-09-2009, 07:37 PM
If you removed the old one and reinstalled it, there's really no reason you can't install the new one, although the "other" dealer should be able to repark it so you're starting from scratch. They can also function the IAC with the Tech 1 (if they still have one) or the PC diagnostics.

Jim, I got the part at napa and got it to them at about 1:30 and Dustin just called to let me know it's done and I can come get it :headbang: He's only charging me $102 for the diagnosis and part install, I'm stoked :banana: thanks again :headbang:

Anyone in the phoenix valley in need of indmar repairs give me a shout, I'll hook ya up with an awesome shop with fantastic CS. They do PCM too.