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jbfootin
05-27-2009, 10:57 AM
OK. I think the drive shaft has a bend to it. (hit a rock bar last year and already fixed the prop)

I looked up a thread on removing the shaft. So far going ok except I can not get the coupler off the shaft. I removed the prop and the large nut in the coupling and put in some penatrating oil, but not having any luck. I tried the "put a socket between the transmission and the shaft and use the 4 bolts to press it out" trick and I also put a weight plate where the prop was, replaced the nut and used it as a slide hammer to try to tap it out. By the end I was hitting it pretty good and still nothing. Tonight am going to try some heat, last night couldn't find my torch. Is a small propane torch enough? Any other ideals?

The boat is a 2001 19Skier BTW. I already plan on replacing the strut bushing but not sure about the seal through the hull. It has never leaked and keeps the bilge area completely dry. The seal looks like the one attached, but not sure if it needs to be re packed.

Any suggestions on what else I should replace while I am in there with the shaft out?

Also looked at JimN's post on engine alighnment which will be helpfull once I am putting this back together. Thanks!

jbfootin
05-27-2009, 11:59 AM
Does MC use a straight or tapered shaft?

EJ OJPROP
05-27-2009, 12:17 PM
Does MC use a straight or tapered shaft?

Should be a double taper.

JimN
05-27-2009, 12:26 PM
Tapered. I think a press is available but if there's not much space between the transmission and the shaft couplers, it probably won't fit.

If you have more than a couple of inches between the couplers and have a way to do it, get a heavy piece of plate steel (more than 1/4" thick), drill it out for the bolts and for a 1" fine thread bolt at the center. Taper the tip of the bolt, thread the center hole, bolt it in place and turn the bolt in. it should pop loose but make sure you leave the nut on so the shaft doesn't slide out.

jbfootin
05-27-2009, 04:21 PM
By putting a socket between the flanges, up against the shaft, and tightning the 4 bolts I would tend to think would apply as much force as a puller, but so far it has not worked. I will try to get a puller between the flanges tonight. I think I will also try dry ice on the shaft and heat on the flange. Something has to give!

JimN
05-27-2009, 04:54 PM
By putting a socket between the flanges, up against the shaft, and tightning the 4 bolts I would tend to think would apply as much force as a puller, but so far it has not worked. I will try to get a puller between the flanges tonight. I think I will also try dry ice on the shaft and heat on the flange. Something has to give!

The problem I see with doing it this way is that it also puts the same amount of force into the transmission's coupler and if either is distorted, it will no longer rotate true.

chico
05-27-2009, 09:10 PM
This works for me,load up the flange wiht a puller or for bolts and a socket,get a 3lb. hammer up against one side of the area where the taper is,strike the opposite side with another good size hammer,good luck.

jbfootin
05-27-2009, 10:36 PM
Well, before I made a special tool or tried hammering much more, I threw a bag of ice on the shaft, left set for a while and then put some heat into the coupler with a small propane plumbers torch and it popped in less than a minute. Wish I would have tried that the first night, but glad it is out.

Now for the expert opinions out there...

The boat has 400 hrs on it, and the strut bearing looks pretty good, whould you replace while you are there?

Attached is a picture of the shaft seal. It never leaked in the past but since I am this far should I replace? If so do I need 3/16" or 1/4" packing rope?

Anything else I should do?

Any tips are appreciated!

JimN
05-27-2009, 11:49 PM
The packing doesn't look bad- have you tightened the nut before? If the shaft turns when the packing is dry, it'll glaze and darken but it doesn't look like that's happened. If it doesn't leak, just make sure it drips occasionally and you should be fine.

TMCNo1
05-28-2009, 06:33 AM
Well, before I made a special tool or tried hammering much more, I threw a bag of ice on the shaft, left set for a while and then put some heat into the coupler with a small propane plumbers torch and it popped in less than a minute. Wish I would have tried that the first night, but glad it is out.

Now for the expert opinions out there...

The boat has 400 hrs on it, and the strut bearing looks pretty good, whould you replace while you are there?

Attached is a picture of the shaft seal. It never leaked in the past but since I am this far should I replace? If so do I need 3/16" or 1/4" packing rope?

Anything else I should do?

Any tips are appreciated!

1/4'' for std. 1" shaft, 3/16" for 1 1/8" PowerSlot shaft.

jbfootin
05-28-2009, 10:24 AM
The packing doesn't look bad- have you tightened the nut before? If the shaft turns when the packing is dry, it'll glaze and darken but it doesn't look like that's happened. If it doesn't leak, just make sure it drips occasionally and you should be fine.

I have never needed to tighten it and to be honest, I know they are supposed to drip, but I never have even seen this one even drip. If I do order some packing rope, how much do I need? They sell it by the foot.

Chicago190
05-28-2009, 01:13 PM
I have never needed to tighten it and to be honest, I know they are supposed to drip, but I never have even seen this one even drip. If I do order some packing rope, how much do I need? They sell it by the foot.

Not much, 2 ft. is plenty. You might consider upgrading to the Gore-tex packing rope Skidim sells. It is meant to be dripless and require less maintenance than the wax rope.

TMCNo1
05-28-2009, 01:15 PM
I have never needed to tighten it and to be honest, I know they are supposed to drip, but I never have even seen this one even drip. If I do order some packing rope, how much do I need? They sell it by the foot.

Minimum three pieces if you replace and can be found here, http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1032 or a MC dealer. All I've ever done is add a piece back in the early '90's, never replaced it.
Tutorials, http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=5427&page=6 and here, http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=159060&postcount=31
47868

jbfootin
06-04-2009, 10:44 PM
Alright, I got all the parts other than the shaft on Tuesday, so I changed the strut bearing (which is a pain in the arse) and today I got the shaft. I figured it would slide in like a breeze, since the old one slid in and out with one hand and you could turn it by hand. The new on it tight! I tried sliding it through the old strut bearing and no problem. I put a caliper on the shaft and it is right on 1.000" but the new bearing are at 0.995" I got the shaft in a ways with a rubber mallet, and I can not even get close to spinning it. I used a pipe wrench with an old inner tube ruber to protect the shaft, and I can bearly turn it...

Is this ok?

Once I get it all the way in will it loosen up? Anyone else run into this? Should I try to ream the bearings out with some sand paper? Should I start drinking?

jbfootin
06-04-2009, 11:08 PM
I put the prop on the end so I can spin the shaft. I can move it about a 1/4" every couple of minutes with this approach. The shaft is in probably a couple of inches, but it turns really hard and I am in a full sweat from pulling and turning on the prop to get it this far. If I get it in I know the engine can turn it, but it seems way to tight and worried it will wear on the shaft or damage something...or give me a heart attach getting the other 4' through the bearing!:mad:

jbfootin
06-05-2009, 08:42 AM
I went back out and got it probably 4" in (yeah you can yellout a joke here). The shaft is probably through the first bushing and I had to put on gloves to be able to turn the prop. If the 2nd bushing puts this much force on it also I do not think you would be able to turn the prop by hand at all. I am going to take it out. Call SKIDIM and get their input, but I think I have to ream out the bushings:mad:

Any input would be appreciated.

JohnnyB
06-07-2009, 05:55 PM
Jay,

When your scratchin' your head with a problem like this, call me.....I'm only 15min away. I can at least contribute some dumb looks and drink your beer.

Talk to ya tomorrow or Tuesday....