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Craig
05-26-2009, 09:42 AM
Can anyone provide some links/info for some replacement engine box insulation.

The stuff on my 94 is in horrible shape and I want to tear it out.

I have been unsuccessful using the TMC Google search but I am sure this has come up here before.

Thanks.

TMCNo1
05-26-2009, 10:34 AM
Here is a thread, http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=1513&highlight=insulation
Use the Advanced Search feature here on TT and insert key word "insulation" and you will get this list, http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/search.php?searchid=1792029

Craig
05-26-2009, 10:43 AM
Thanks No1, I actually found that thread already but all the links were dead.

I really want a the name of the insulation product or a link to it so I can purchase some.

Overtons does not seem to carry the insulation that East TX used in his project 4 years ago. I have also checked West Marine with no luck.

panshovel68
05-26-2009, 10:48 AM
I would be interested in getting some insulation also.

east tx skier
05-26-2009, 11:36 AM
I looked for the stuff recently that I used to answer a question for someone on another forum and came up empty. You might want to call Overton's and see if they can point you in the right direction on who the manufacturer was.

TMCNo1
05-26-2009, 12:39 PM
You may find what you need here, http://www.insulation4less.com/prodex_Ffmf.asp?OVRAW=rigid%20aluminum%20faced%20i nsulation&OVKEY=aluminum%20insulation&OVMTC=advanced&OVADID=36516776512&OVKWID=179361271012 or even check with a local insulation contractor in your area yellow pages.

denverd1
05-26-2009, 01:05 PM
"DynaMat" is the sound dampening material used by high-end car audio shops. They put it in doors and back gates. Under or behind carpet and upholstering to reduce vibration from speaker. Comes in sheets of various size and thickness. I too remember a kit, but can't find it.

Craig
05-26-2009, 01:33 PM
I have seen the DynaMat, a bit out of my price range. Thanks.

I think I found some insulation that will work.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9160k4/=21k79d

The foil faced stuff looks just like what previous people had used.

Sodar
05-26-2009, 01:40 PM
This is what I will be using next year. My foam from the factory has never stayed put. I am sick of it, so I will be installing this stuff.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php

Monte
05-26-2009, 02:14 PM
I have been told that this stuff works well. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=13358-56291-BP48025&lpage=none

Sodar
05-26-2009, 02:30 PM
I have been told that this stuff works well. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=13358-56291-BP48025&lpage=none

Been told by many that that stuff does not do well, because the adhesive is a tar based product and as the heat increases, it's effectiveness decreases and makes a nice mess of everything.

Monte
05-26-2009, 02:42 PM
Been told by many that that stuff does not do well, because the adhesive is a tar based product and as the heat increases, it's effectiveness decreases and makes a nice mess of everything.

Maybe I should have added not to use the adhesive they suggest. From my source basically you use a reverse rivet to hold them in. Think about the underside of your cars hood. The attachment device uses extremely strong adhesive to stick to the inner box. Looks like a short upside down nail. Stick the sharp point through the insulation, then cap with a inch or so diameter cap.

east tx skier
05-26-2009, 03:03 PM
The installer used contact cement to secure my replacement insulation. Never had any trouble with it coming down.

panshovel68
05-27-2009, 11:13 PM
Found this, any opinions?


http://www.lobucrod.com/newinspics.html

dtc
05-28-2009, 12:23 AM
Sorry I don't have a complete answer for you, however I purchased mine from a local RV store. It was the exact same stuff that Overton's was selling, and was half the price. I won't be able to get the information for another week, however will get the manufacturer and contact info for you when I get back home.

deereman
05-28-2009, 01:46 AM
what about using some kind of spray in insulation like "great stuff" or similiar?

east tx skier
05-28-2009, 12:39 PM
BriEOD had his old motorbox sprayed with bedliner (linex). Said it worked well. Not sure on its noise reducing qualities though.

etduc
05-28-2009, 02:19 PM
Can anyone provide some links/info for some replacement engine box insulation.

The stuff on my 94 is in horrible shape and I want to tear it out.

I have been unsuccessful using the TMC Google search but I am sure this has come up here before.

Thanks.

DId my 94 last year. The Dynamat didn't really help much, on either sound or heat control.
(Wrong material, wrong application.) The Thermplex, etc. is used in the hvac business, and works amazingly well, for heat control...probably not so well on sound control. I used 1/2" fiberglass duct liner, and spay adhesive. Still not as quiet as stock.

The orginal material (foam) is used in the home speaker cabinet construction (speaker grills/interior baffling) in the past. Yes, it doesn't last forever, but best for sound control/heat. Try googleing, home speaker kits.

dtc
06-03-2009, 01:38 PM
Hey Craig ...

In an effort to not get near the line that defines "promotions of products/services", I'll keep this brief. If you, or anyone else, are interested in more detail, please feel free to pm me.

The stuff that Overton's was selling was "The Insulator" and was specifically branded as "thermal-acousitc insulation". I was able to purchase a packaged 4'x6' sheet (forgot which of the two thickness I purchased) from a local RV store out of their product/supplier catalog.

I'm fairly certain the stuff is Manufactured in AZ by a company somewhere near Chandler.

Hope that helps ...

Btw, speaking from experience ... DO NOT store/leave the shipped package with the blue ink on your upholstery if you don't get to the project after you order this product. Mine bleed onto the upholstery and dyed the white into a blue in some spots. I couldn't, nor could any of the professionals, get the ink out, and we had to redye/paint the seats with a color matched white.

Good luck with your project and go safely enjoy the water!

wheelerd
06-10-2009, 01:14 AM
I bought acoustic insulating foam from McMaster-Carr . . . but haven't had time to install it yet since I'm just finishing installing my new upholstery.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-absorbing-foam/=290632

I ordered 8' of the 1 inch skinned adhesive-backed. It has the highest noise reduction coefficient. Specs say adhesive is good to 225 degrees.

BrianM
06-22-2009, 12:33 PM
My insulation finally completely gave up the ghost. Took the rest of the funky stuff off and I have to say that now it is substantially louder inside the boat. Since the kit is no longer available at Overtons I have been looking local and came up with this stuff. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=13357-56291-BP24025&lpage=none Seems like it would work perfect using the 3m spray adhesive and foil tape at the seams.

babymoore3
07-19-2009, 08:46 PM
This is what I will be using next year. My foam from the factory has never stayed put. I am sick of it, so I will be installing this stuff.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php

Cameron,
Do you know someone that has done this or what brings you to say this is the stuff? Saw Overton's is out of there kit and it seems like it may hold water (fiberglass appearance) so I am looking at options. Dynaliner appears to be another perspective option... just checking...

http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive_dynaliner.html

babymoore3
07-19-2009, 08:48 PM
On another note, what are they doing in the new MCs?

wheelerd
07-21-2009, 02:46 AM
Check out this insulation from McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-control-insulation/=2u4wxr

I just installed it in my motor box and was on the lake today for the first time with it. I used the 1 inch skinned self-adhesive stuff. Time will tell how the adhesive holds but it sure is quiet. I can hear the exhaust rumble better now.:D

CantRepeat
07-21-2009, 08:22 AM
I used this when I replaced the stuff in my 92. I got it from Overtons.

CantRepeat
07-21-2009, 08:34 AM
Oh and I got some glue remover from the automotive paint store that made removing the old stuff a snap!

babymoore3
07-21-2009, 07:08 PM
Overton's is sold out so I started looking for other options that may be better?

Sodar
07-21-2009, 07:15 PM
Cameron,
Do you know someone that has done this or what brings you to say this is the stuff? Saw Overton's is out of there kit and it seems like it may hold water (fiberglass appearance) so I am looking at options. Dynaliner appears to be another perspective option... just checking...

http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive_dynaliner.html

Never said it was "the stuff" just said that it is what I will be using since I have read nothing but good things about it on a couple of truck/car forums that use it for quieting down the cab.

If you want to go with a less expensive route, BrianM recently installed this stuff. Looks to be a great buy and a great replacement.

http://www.lobucrod.com/index.html

BrianM
07-21-2009, 08:21 PM
As Sodar said I did the stuff he posted a link to. Overall I am very happy. The material itself is thin but the noise/insulating properties seem to be about the same as the original foam. The price was definitely right at a total of less than $75 including the insulation, tape and 3m adhesive. Installation was pretty easy and the material was easy to work with. One roll is just enough to do the engine box with just a little left over. I would recommend it.

wheelerd
07-22-2009, 01:42 AM
Here's a pic of my installation using the foam I mentioned above from McMaster-Carr.

MC240
04-03-2010, 10:23 PM
Great looking job. How does it hold up against the heat of motor? Also, is it quieter than factory insulation?

wheelerd
04-03-2010, 10:31 PM
I've never done a side-by-side noise comparison. At idle, you only hear the exhaust, not the motor. At speed all you hear is water and wind -- at least from the driver's seat.
As for heat, there's never been a problem. In fact, the exhaust risers just touch the insulation but mine never get hot enough to melt anything.

H20skeefreek
04-04-2010, 01:16 AM
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&keyword=Noise+Barrier+Materia&Ntt=Noise+Barrier+Materia&N=377+710&y=0&x=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=SiteSearch

CantRepeat
04-04-2010, 08:37 AM
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&keyword=Noise+Barrier+Materia&Ntt=Noise+Barrier+Materia&N=377+710&y=0&x=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=SiteSearch


Looks like a good product.

macattack
04-04-2010, 11:15 AM
Can anyone provide the product name of what insulation is being used in the new MCs? tks, mac

wheelerd
04-04-2010, 12:23 PM
Looks like a good product.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&keyword=Noise+Barrier+Materia&Ntt=Noise+Barrier+Materia&N=377+710&y=0&x=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=SiteSearch

Gulp!!! That's very much like the product I bought from McMaster-Carr but WAY more expensive. Mine only cost $12.58/ft.

TonyB
04-10-2010, 07:44 PM
Here is the closest equivalent to what you once could find in Overton's catalog...

http://www.marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page204.html

I think you'll need the 2 roll kit.

Fasteddie
04-13-2010, 01:50 PM
I've purchased this material but I haven't installed it yet.
http://www.lobucrod.com/index.html

thatsmrmastercraft
04-13-2010, 02:17 PM
Looks like good stuff at a inexpensive price. I sent for the free sample they offer.

master.mike
04-13-2010, 10:10 PM
I installed the stuff that "wheelerd" got from McMaster-Carr this past weekend and took the boat on the lake.... WOW! I was amazed at the different it makes. I started with just the burned up old stuff in it prior to the installation.
All you hear in idol is the bubbles and low rumble of the exhaust. I would highly recommend that stuff. I also sanded out the inside of the dog house first, to remove all the particles that may come lose and make the self stick not function.

Double D
04-13-2010, 10:31 PM
Check out this insulation from McMaster Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-control-insulation/=2u4wxr

I just installed it in my motor box and was on the lake today for the first time with it. I used the 1 inch skinned self-adhesive stuff. Time will tell how the adhesive holds but it sure is quiet. I can hear the exhaust rumble better now.:D

Wheelerd, Maybe someone has asked this before, but how many feet do I need to buy of the 54" wide stuff for my 1994 engine box?

Thanks!

wheelerd
04-14-2010, 12:14 AM
Wheelerd, Maybe someone has asked this before, but how many feet do I need to buy of the 54" wide stuff for my 1994 engine box?

Thanks!

I ordered 8' and that was enough. There were a few scraps left over. Your 94 should be the same as my 91.
Do the main center piece first since it's the most complicated. Be sure to leave a bit extra on both ends -- better to have to cut some off after than have it too short.:cry:

Double D
04-14-2010, 11:48 PM
I ordered 8' and that was enough. There were a few scraps left over. Your 94 should be the same as my 91.
Do the main center piece first since it's the most complicated. Be sure to leave a bit extra on both ends -- better to have to cut some off after than have it too short.:cry:

Thank You Much!

MC240
04-15-2010, 08:19 PM
I put the Mcmaster Carr material in and it works great.

babymoore3
07-25-2010, 09:20 PM
As Sodar said I did the stuff he posted a link to. Overall I am very happy. The material itself is thin but the noise/insulating properties seem to be about the same as the original foam. The price was definitely right at a total of less than $75 including the insulation, tape and 3m adhesive. Installation was pretty easy and the material was easy to work with. One roll is just enough to do the engine box with just a little left over. I would recommend it.

BrianM - how is this holding up - do you like it? Any pics?

BrianM
07-26-2010, 10:17 AM
BrianM - how is this holding up - do you like it? Any pics?

Holding up great. Seems to provide about the same insulating properties as the original. Sorry no pics but next time I'm at the lake I'll take a couple if I can remember.

TLR67
07-26-2010, 10:49 AM
I got mine from Sears... Cheapest I could find... Also works great since I took the Silent Muffler off too...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00982861000P?vName=Sears%20Pro&cName=Professional&sName=Mechanics%20Tools%20&%20Auto%20Supplies&sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00982861000P

Craig
07-26-2010, 11:04 AM
Just to add to those who have been pleased with the McMaster-Carr insulation, I have been very happy in the recent months with my install.

I used 7' of the foil-faced, self-adhesive stuff as thick as they make it. I was tentative about the adhesive at first but very glad I went that route now. It adhered really well and the engine stays nice and clean.

I would recommend getting 8' to anyone trying it in the future, 7' took some very intelligent cutting to have enough.

macattack
08-10-2010, 01:28 PM
Craig: It sounds like you purchased the 1" foil face adhesive backed foam @ 14.01 per foot? Where you able to place the foam under the metal strip at the bottom of your engine box or was it too thick? Any other install tips besides buying an '8 section. Any pics? tks, mac

TLR67
08-10-2010, 01:40 PM
^^ Who's bright idea was it at MC to put cup holders in the engine box anyway???

BNIROOSTER
08-12-2010, 09:36 PM
"DynaMat" is the sound dampening material used by high-end car audio shops. They put it in doors and back gates. Under or behind carpet and upholstering to reduce vibration from speaker. Comes in sheets of various size and thickness. I too remember a kit, but can't find it.

There is another product that is similar, but more cost effective. It's called FatMat and can be found on Ebay for less than $100 for 50 sqft.

Craig
08-16-2010, 10:17 AM
Craig: It sounds like you purchased the 1" foil face adhesive backed foam @ 14.01 per foot? Where you able to place the foam under the metal strip at the bottom of your engine box or was it too thick? Any other install tips besides buying an '8 section. Any pics? tks, mac

Mac,

Sorry for the delay, was out of the country.

Anyway, yes you are correct on the 1" foam, adhesive-backed, foil-faced.

I just ran the foam about a half inch shy of the strip at the bottom and slid some aluminum duct-tape under the strip and over the top of the foam. I ran a line like that all the way around the motor box and I think it turned out pretty nice.

I came to the conclusion that the foam was not going under there unless I drilled out all the rivets on the aluminum strip, placed the foam, and re-riveted all of them.

You can see a couple of pictures of my install here:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=681624&postcount=71

Hope this helps.

east tx skier
08-16-2010, 11:32 AM
The foil tape finishes it off nicely. It also is easy to use as a patch if your insulation gets torn.

at7driver
10-03-2010, 01:22 PM
I have an 89 Prostar and finally have it running so its on to the cosmetic stuff. I was wondering if that 1" insulation is too thick for the 89's, there doesnt look like there's enough room in there (when its closed) without it rubbing on something.

Has anybody used this material on their 89's. thanks. I removed the old insulation and sanded off the old glue etc.. ready to re-install new insulation.





dave

macattack
10-22-2010, 03:50 PM
Finally found time to accomplish the motor box insulation install. I used the McMaster-Carr adhesive back, 1" reinforced foil faced foam (8' x 54").

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-control-insulation/=9dzrvc

Tools Required:
- Tools to remove the hardware on your motor box
- Goo Off, acetone, putty knife
- A very sharp pair of scissors
- Hack saw blade (for cutting out the cupholder holes)
- AC aluminum foil tape and painter's tape

I removed all the hardware to include the metal strip at the bottom of the motor box (my strip was screwed in vs riveted). I used painter’s tape to mark the location of the screw holes. Also, Dremeled off all the exposed sheet metal screws.

The most time consuming task was the removal of the old adhesive; not sure this was necessary?? Whatever MC used was still pretty sticky. I used Goo Off which worked, but again time consuming. Once I removed ~90%, I used acetone to clean up the remaining residue.

Decided to install the foam in 3 pieces…center and 2 sides; used butcher paper to make the templates. Installed the center section first, then made the side templates. Lesson learned…the foam has one edge that is sealed/tapers off vs a squared off cut. I would cut that seam off before you install, so you have two squared edges that will butt together better when fitting the pieces next to each other.

I only pulled the backing off a few inches at a time while installing the foam; once it sticks, it pretty hard to remove/adjust so this where you need to take your time and work slowly. I had my wife hold the piece on a 90 degree angle or so and feed it to me as I pressed it on to the box.

Once the all the pieces were installed, I turned over the motor box and used a hack saw blade to cut out the cupholders. Flipped it back on its side and used the foil tape to cover the open edge of the foam so it would not tear if you remove the cupholders later on.

Other than that, measure twice (or more) before you cut! The 8’ length worked out well; you might get away with 7’ but not worth the hassle of perfect cutting, etc.

macattack
10-22-2010, 03:54 PM
Some additional pics...

supturb89
10-22-2010, 04:12 PM
Very nice install....on my to do list for the winter.

wheelerd
10-22-2010, 04:32 PM
Nicely done!
Just curious as to why you chose foil rather than the stock gray?

Craig
10-22-2010, 04:38 PM
mac,

what a great looking install! You will not be sorry you did this.

mayo93prostar
10-22-2010, 05:29 PM
looks very nice. I need to do this project this winter on my 93 prostar. nice info on doing the 3 pieces.

DooSPX
10-22-2010, 06:30 PM
very nice!
loving that blue painted MCX there too!

macattack
10-22-2010, 08:23 PM
tks for everyone's compliments!

Nicely done!
Just curious as to why you chose foil rather than the stock gray?

If you are referring to the OEM foam, it was a piece of crap; it didn't last more than a couple of years; started falling apart in pieces; looked like my engine had dandruff:(. MC eventually changed over to the foil foam...not sure what year?

mac,

what a great looking install! You will not be sorry you did this.

Craig...tks and tks for your tips from your install!

wheelerd
10-23-2010, 12:21 AM
[QUOTE=macattack;715452]tks for everyone's compliments!

If you are referring to the OEM foam, it was a piece of crap; it didn't last more than a couple of years; started falling apart in pieces; looked like my engine had dandruff:(. MC eventually changed over to the foil foam...not sure what year?


Sorry for not being clear...
I meant, why not the McMaster Carr gray foam? (Yes, the OEM stuff was pretty sad.)

JohnE
10-23-2010, 12:27 AM
^^ Who's bright idea was it at MC to put cup holders in the engine box anyway???

I realize you don't check in here all the time, but why wouldn't you want cupholders there??? Mine are never empty. Wish there were three more on the front side too.

TX.X-30 fan
10-23-2010, 10:44 AM
I realize you don't check in here all the time, but why wouldn't you want cupholders there??? Mine are never empty. Wish there were three more on the front side too.



Have to have a place for water and Gatorade:D

macattack
10-23-2010, 09:48 PM
[QUOTE=macattack;715452]tks for everyone's compliments!

If you are referring to the OEM foam, it was a piece of crap; it didn't last more than a couple of years; started falling apart in pieces; looked like my engine had dandruff:(. MC eventually changed over to the foil foam...not sure what year?


Sorry for not being clear...
I meant, why not the McMaster Carr gray foam? (Yes, the OEM stuff was pretty sad.)

First thought was to use one of the 1" options for the best noise reduction; that left 4 choices...2 foil, 2 non foil. Not to say my next assumptions are correct, but I thought the foil would be easier to keep clean and a nicer looking install since you can use the foil tape for the seams. Not sure what you would use on seams for the non foil foam; maybe you do not need anything?? Once I decided to go foil, might as well use the reinforce version to help prevent accidental tears.


I realize you don't check in here all the time, but why wouldn't you want cupholders there??? Mine are never empty. Wish there were three more on the front side too.

Yep, love those cupholders; besides all the "liquid" beverages, also used to hold my boot slime/butter!

Ben
04-25-2011, 08:13 AM
+1 for the mcmaster carr stuff. I was able to get most of the existing stuff out and reuse for patterns.

I founda heat gun worked pretty good to get the glue residue off. Set at 950 deg F. In most areas, I was able to use metal putty knife and get down to glass. I then used acetone to ensure surface was clean, although there was still some residue left. I probably removed 90+ % in most areas. Less in the corners.

Adhesive backing was awesome. Thanks for the positive recommendations to those who had posted.

mikeg205
12-03-2011, 11:33 AM
Some additional pics...

Dang, lumbergh had to mention this and I just had to go look...lol...

....now I am going to have to do this.....looks like a fun project and looks way cool when finished...

JMann
12-12-2011, 06:50 PM
Here's a pic of my installation using the foam I mentioned above from McMaster-Carr.

I am working on this project now. I ordered the same 1" foam from McMaster with the adhesive on it. Did any of you guys that used the McMaster foam use any type of adhesive besides what’s on the foam, i.e. spray 3M spray 77 or 90 on in addition to the adhesive on the foam?
I hope mine turns out as well as Wheelerd's did.

macattack
12-12-2011, 08:45 PM
Did any of you guys that used the McMaster foam use any type of adhesive besides what’s on the foam, i.e. spray 3M spray 77 or 90 on in addition to the adhesive on the foam?

I did not use any additional adhesive...the foam still looks brand new and holding strong a year later...mac

wheelerd
12-12-2011, 09:13 PM
Me neither. The backing is pretty sticky.

The key I think is to make sure the surface is completely clean. After removing the old foam remnants I used a wire wheel brush on my drill, cleaned with acetone, then more brushing, and finally wiped down with a damp cloth.

I made patterns for the pieces out of paper and then cut the foam just a bit larger to give myself a margin of error. Once the pieces were installed I trimmed the overage.

Good luck. Post some pics of the result.

89BigBlock
12-16-2011, 08:43 AM
Just wanted to add my .02 on the MC-Carr foil faced insulation. Did my box last yr and it made a significant difference! Picked up my skiing partner the following morning after install and his immediate response was how much more quiet the boat was. I have a 454 btw ;)

vrsc
12-17-2011, 08:43 PM
Craig: It sounds like you purchased the 1" foil face adhesive backed foam @ 14.01 per foot? Where you able to place the foam under the metal strip at the bottom of your engine box or was it too thick? Any other install tips besides buying an '8 section. Any pics? tks, mac
I can not find this stuff unless the company has doubled the price since most of you have purchased this. Can anyone direct me to the part number from this company please? Also, did you purchase the tape from them or from a Lowes or HD? th

Lumbergh
12-17-2011, 08:54 PM
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-dampers/=fepgpq

The PN is 5692t53 I believe. The website used to be better and easier to see the product.

The foil tape is air duct tape and can be bought at any Lowes / HD.

Eight (8) feet seems to be the standard amount needed for a MC engine box. That's what I'm about to buy.

psychobilly
12-17-2011, 09:09 PM
I'm pretty sure that this is what I ordered from McMasterCarr


Heavy-Duty Heat Reflecting 60% 1" 54" 5692T53 15.22 (adhesive back)


He's right, their web site isn't as user friendly anymore, you have to create a profile in order to view anything I think....

Search sound absorbing foam

and I too ordered 8' and it was plenty.

wheelerd
12-18-2011, 12:48 AM
Here's the correct URL
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-absorbing-foam/=fescyg
I used the 1" easy-clean adhesive back 5692T49 $13.21. It has the highest sound absorption percentage. Post#30 shows my install.
My original foam was not the foil-faced type so that's why I didn't use it for the replacement. Any of the 1" adhesive-back foams McMaster has would likely work fine. I figured the water and oil resistant features weren't important for this application.

JMann
12-19-2011, 01:23 AM
Just finished installing the new 1" grey foam from McMaster. Turned out pretty good. I do have a couple of questions for you guys that have done this. What did you do with that black grate I reinstalled without any foam on the inside (I was afraid it would touch the foam on the engine compartment and not allow air passage) I am thinking about putting the 1" foam on the outside over the screws, what do you guys think? Also When I was reinstalling the cover on the outside the screws want to tear the foam as they go in. What have you guys done to prevent this when reinstalling the cover on the outside? I put one in and it tore the foam as it twisted in.
What do you guys think about how it turned out?

wheelerd
12-19-2011, 01:54 AM
Looks good. It seems as though you did the same as I did with the breather grill. (See post #30) Just leave it as is now.
As for the outer cover screws tearing the foam . . .
Poke a wire or nail through the screw hole from the outside so that it punctures the foam. That helps to relieve the foam's tension. Sort of like drilling a pilot hole in wood so it doesn't split. You could also use an Xacto knife and make a small X-cut where the screw will come through.

JMann
12-19-2011, 02:15 AM
Looks good. It seems as though you did the same as I did with the breather grill. (See post #30) Just leave it as is now.
As for the outer cover screws tearing the foam . . .
Poke a wire or nail through the screw hole from the outside so that it punctures the foam. That helps to relieve the foam's tension. Sort of like drilling a pilot hole in wood so it doesn't split. You could also use an Xacto knife and make a small X-cut where the screw will come through.

I saw your post and it looks like you cut the foam out around the grill. I ran my foam to the oval and cut it out around the oval then put the grill on. I remove the old foam from the grill so there is currently no foam on the grill. I will probably leave it for now but may add a piece of foam to the outside of the grill over the screws. I will see what happens after the first time out this spring. Thanks for the idea on the wire I will give that a shot tomorrow.

wheelerd
12-19-2011, 02:51 AM
Truth told, I don't know how much ventilation that grill and opening provides anyway. I was never sure whether the purpose was fresh air intake or ventilation. I could never feel warm air coming out of mine. On the flip side I don't know how much fresh air would be drawn in by the engine. On the newer boats, there is no comparable vent on the engine box. All the air comes in and out via the bilge ducting. In any case, it never really gets that hot under there.

mikeg205
12-19-2011, 09:48 AM
Just finished installing the new 1" grey foam from McMaster. Turned out pretty good. I do have a couple of questions for you guys that have done this. What did you do with that black grate I reinstalled without any foam on the inside (I was afraid it would touch the foam on the engine compartment and not allow air passage) I am thinking about putting the 1" foam on the outside over the screws, what do you guys think? Also When I was reinstalling the cover on the outside the screws want to tear the foam as they go in. What have you guys done to prevent this when reinstalling the cover on the outside? I put one in and it tore the foam as it twisted in.
What do you guys think about how it turned out?

Looks great!... something I will tackle one day...it's a good point..I wonder where all the venting originates in the newer boats...seems like a good reason to head over to the dealer to just look around :D

waterlogged882
12-19-2011, 08:48 PM
..........

ntidsl
07-16-2012, 09:26 PM
Dern you guys...now I ordered some too...

maristardd
07-25-2012, 11:50 AM
My wet/dry vac (inadvertently) made short work of over 1/2 my horribly degraded stock insulation - glad to find this thread!

... is there any reason NOT to also wrap some insulation around the sides of the installed cupholders? Seems like having them be insulated would be nice, (engine sound / keep beverage cold) and of course keeping drip holes open/clear. Maybe I'm not thinking about something like increased condensation or ??

wheelerd
07-25-2012, 12:35 PM
... is there any reason NOT to also wrap some insulation around the sides of the installed cupholders?

Likely no reason why you couldn't . . . but remember the foam is acoustic insulation, not thermal insulation. Don't know if there would be any noticeable difference to the temperature of your favorite brew.

kjohnson
07-26-2012, 12:41 PM
I took mine out and then cleaned the fiberglass. It really isn't that much louder without it. I think it gets in the way more than it helps.

725mastercraft
03-28-2013, 04:43 PM
I ordered the McMaster-Carr foam to replace my 20 YO MC PS190 engine cover foam that has deteriorated to dust. I cant wait to get the new foam in so I can install it. I hope it makes the boat sound like new if not better. If any of the longtime posters from this thread see this

Craig
03-28-2013, 05:13 PM
Mine has held up well, you will not be sorry you did it. Looks better, engine stays cleaner, slightly less noisy.

An added benefit of the foil is the reflectivity which makes me glad I went that route. If you are out in a sunny day light gets under the motor box and bounces around so if you are working on something under there is is generally very easy to see without a light. If you are in the garage I just throw a light pointed generally at the foil and it bounces around and you get the same effect.

725mastercraft
03-29-2013, 01:34 PM
I ordered the McMaster-Carr foam to replace my 20 YO MC PS190 engine cover foam that has deteriorated to dust. I cant wait to get the new foam in so I can install it. I hope it makes the boat sound like new if not better. If any of the longtime posters from this thread see this

Continuing my post...LOL I got so busy yesterday. If any longtime posters see this please let me know how well your repair has help up. I think one person already did. Thanks! I already have got my tracking number from McMaster-CARR. It's a little more expensive these days. I went with the gray foam 1" think and adhesive backing 8' by 54". 75% noise absorption. 149.00 included shipping.

wheelerd
03-29-2013, 11:36 PM
That's what I used when I did my TriStar. Sold it the next year so I can't comment as to how it held up.

georgea0731
04-13-2013, 03:38 PM
I have the 2 piece engine cover and need to do the same. How much material should I order for the smaller job. Thanks, great write up and pictures.
Did anyone post any pictures of the NEW boats engine cover?

BMDWillyZ
04-28-2013, 09:08 PM
I have a 2000 Prostar 195 that has the split "dog house" and I also want to know if anyone has put sound insulation on The botttom half. It doesn't have it on it now, but was wondering if someone out there has done it.

jpowers8340
05-05-2013, 11:36 PM
I have a 2001 X9 with only 300 hours on it but the insulation is dust. If I touch the inside of the cover it leaves a hand print in it. It is also always falling down in the bottom of the hull and I am worried it will eventually plug up the bilge pump. If any one has done an engine box similar to mine I would love any advice, tips or pictures. Especially with the easiest way to remove the old stuff so the new McMaster-CARR 1" Heavy duty foil faced adhesive backed foam will stick like it should and last. Also if any one has any other info or tips about a 2001 X9 please let me know. This is my first Mastercraft and I love it like a child so I want to take care of it. Also does anyone know if a 2006 X9 has the same rear bench seat bottom as a 2001? Mine has a small crack and I want to get a seat cover from Mastercraft and thats the last year they have them available for.

Craig
05-06-2013, 09:23 AM
Mine was just as you describe, I put some details on my project here:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=681624&postcount=71

CC2MC
05-06-2013, 10:12 AM
I have a 2001 X9 with only 300 hours on it but the insulation is dust. If I touch the inside of the cover it leaves a hand print in it. It is also always falling down in the bottom of the hull and I am worried it will eventually plug up the bilge pump. If any one has done an engine box similar to mine I would love any advice, tips or pictures. Especially with the easiest way to remove the old stuff so the new McMaster-CARR 1" Heavy duty foil faced adhesive backed foam will stick like it should and last. Also if any one has any other info or tips about a 2001 X9 please let me know. This is my first Mastercraft and I love it like a child so I want to take care of it. Also does anyone know if a 2006 X9 has the same rear bench seat bottom as a 2001? Mine has a small crack and I want to get a seat cover from Mastercraft and thats the last year they have them available for.

Nice looking boat. That engine insulation is something I want to do to mine as well. Btw, is your boat hooked up to a crown Vic?

mikeg205
05-06-2013, 10:12 AM
I have a 2001 X9 with only 300 hours on it but the insulation is dust. If I touch the inside of the cover it leaves a hand print in it. It is also always falling down in the bottom of the hull and I am worried it will eventually plug up the bilge pump. If any one has done an engine box similar to mine I would love any advice, tips or pictures. Especially with the easiest way to remove the old stuff so the new McMaster-CARR 1" Heavy duty foil faced adhesive backed foam will stick like it should and last. Also if any one has any other info or tips about a 2001 X9 please let me know. This is my first Mastercraft and I love it like a child so I want to take care of it. Also does anyone know if a 2006 X9 has the same rear bench seat bottom as a 2001? Mine has a small crack and I want to get a seat cover from Mastercraft and thats the last year they have them available for.

Launching photon torpedo from rear bay... ;)

jpowers8340
05-06-2013, 02:34 PM
@ CC2MC, LOL, ya that's my work car. Have to have a car in front of it so no one gets the bright idea to take it for a drive without me. I had to use my truck and didn't feel like taking the boat around town.

mgs96ps
01-27-2014, 05:43 PM
........

atihanyi
01-27-2014, 07:52 PM
I just did mine with the Mccarr stuff didn't think cost was too bad at $140 for the material and ten bucks worth of foil tape

rek
03-02-2014, 10:26 AM
Has anyone used the Carr + 2" Foam egg crate as the top layer? Using 3m super 77 spray adhesive to apply.

I would think it would provide additional sound dampening and also isolate different sound frequencies that the Carr does not. (lower = Carr and high = egg crate)

This is a technique I picked up on researching my car audio installation. Used Raamat dampening with a layer of Ensolite on top which dampens the higher frequencies. In fact, Ensolite might be a good top layer instead of the egg crate. It's peal and stick.

The inner engineer in me is contemplating doing this and taking measurements with a pocket RTA. :)

bret
03-19-2014, 10:14 AM
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14720-Super-Sonic-Mat/dp/B001GFS7MQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395234629&sr=1-5&keywords=cool+it+aluminum+adhesive

This is what I used and you WONT BELIEVE how incredible it cut down on noise. You can talk normal at 34mph in my boat! It helps if its warm, clean your inside with Acetone or thinner, use a little roller to get into the tight corners and mold the curves, sharp box cutter and get a roll of tape to mask the seams. Good stuff!!! Two rolls should get it done IIRC.

Dynamite Spike
03-19-2014, 10:17 AM
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14720-Super-Sonic-Mat/dp/B001GFS7MQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395234629&sr=1-5&keywords=cool+it+aluminum+adhesive

This is what I used and you WONT BELIEVE how incredible it cut down on noise. You can talk normal at 34mph in my boat! It helps if its warm, clean your inside with Acetone or thinner, use a little roller to get into the tight corners and mold the curves, sharp box cutter and get a roll of tape to mask the seams. Good stuff!!! Two rolls should get it done IIRC.


What is the size of the sheet? How many rolls did you use?

Dynamite Spike
03-19-2014, 10:18 AM
What is the size of the sheet? How many rolls did you use?


Sorry, just read your post to the end. 2 rolls!

ncsucarjock88
03-30-2014, 10:51 PM
Has anyone retrofitted this onto an older boat?? Say one like my 1987 PS190?? It's just a hard shell on the inside, and it reverberates a lot of noise. Anything I can do to cut down on that is appreciated. It'd be nice to hear the V8 burble from the back, rather than the engine/drivetrain.

mgs96ps
04-20-2014, 04:09 PM
.........

occva
04-20-2014, 05:39 PM
Motorbox insulation completed with Cool it Thermo Tec acoustical sound and heat

Can you let me know how it works. I would like to apply to my 86 but I dont have much room inside my box.

mgs96ps
04-20-2014, 06:00 PM
.......

wheelerd
04-20-2014, 11:32 PM
Looks like a pro job. Well done.

mgs96ps
04-21-2014, 12:01 AM
.......

mgs96ps
05-10-2014, 02:45 AM
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waterlogged882
05-10-2014, 07:26 AM
..........

waterlogged882
05-10-2014, 07:28 AM
..........

mgs96ps
05-10-2014, 07:42 AM
........

waterlogged882
05-10-2014, 08:09 AM
..........

mgs96ps
05-10-2014, 09:06 AM
.........

waterlogged882
05-10-2014, 04:49 PM
..........

waterlogged882
05-11-2014, 09:55 PM
..........

occva
05-11-2014, 10:02 PM
How did the insulation do as far as sound deadening? I want to try this on mine.

On a side note, does anyone have any insight to removing the vent in my box? I cant see it doing much other than letting a little hot air out when not running.

waterlogged882
05-11-2014, 10:30 PM
..........

mgs96ps
05-11-2014, 10:32 PM
.........

waterlogged882
05-11-2014, 10:35 PM
..........

mgs96ps
05-11-2014, 10:44 PM
......

mgs96ps
05-11-2014, 10:48 PM
.......

ncsucarjock88
05-11-2014, 11:06 PM
This is considered a barrier and deadening material for sound. I've done extensive research on sound deadening, since bringing the sound level down in my diesel truck. (I've taken it from 99 dB down to 82dB) - that's a *huge* decrease, as the scale is logarithmic, and I'm not done. Boat will be soon to follow, I promise.

The largest problem with the boat is twofold, the barrier and deadening layers are good - the deadening layer won't do a heck of a lot for us in the boat department though, due to the lack of resonance in fiberglass, whereas in sheetmetal it is much more prone to resonate. It will help, but not greatly.

What you really need is an absorption layer in addition to the barrier, deadening, and decoupling layer. The problem is, in our boats, this is going to be a significant challenge to do without significant modifications.

MLV - mass loaded vinyl is really the missing link in the equation here to block sound, and that's what you need here - something to completely block the sound. MLV is very heavy, about 1/4" thick, and very hard to "adhere". I might experiment with some on my current engine hatch. If you could get a layer of MLV to adhere, then add a layer of Ensolite closed cell foam on top of that, that would be a relatively thin, and very effective sound absorption solution.

Here's some good reading on the actual science behind what's going on.
http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/index.htm

I actually have some of their larger engine box insulation in stock, but there isn't room inside my engine box to place it, at least on the sides, there may be enough height to put a layer on the top.

All I can say is stay tuned - probably this coming fall and winter, and I can tell you a bit more about what I've found to be effective.

I've got thousands of dollars and quite a few hours in the truck project, and it's completely worth it... I will apply what I've learned there to the boat.

Jordan
05-22-2014, 02:06 PM
I am new to this forum but know a bit about insulation (18 years at Owens Corning). Would a 3/4" thick for pmable glueable sheet work? We make this stuff for hvac that's semi rigid, cut able, has fiberglass facing with foiled backing-- that combo provides resistance to reverb as well as Eliminates sound transfer...also has R 3-4 so will reduce thermal heat transfer...

That foam stuff in my 96 is falling off and until I read your posts I hadn't thought much about it..

Happy to send you a small sample

_fng_
05-22-2014, 02:18 PM
For those that have done the installation, would you say the results were worth the time and money? I don't mind the engine noise in the boat much but if it helps significantly I'm always open for little areas to tinker with on the boat.

Rockman
05-22-2014, 02:32 PM
For those that have done the installation, would you say the results were worth the time and money? I don't mind the engine noise in the boat much but if it helps significantly I'm always open for little areas to tinker with on the boat.

I think it was...start to finish I think I may have put in about 8 hours or so...beers in between.:D

Table Rocker
05-22-2014, 03:32 PM
Rockman, were you the one who had problems with the aluminum strip inside the motor box? If so, did you get it back in shape? Did you use rivets?

mgs96ps
05-22-2014, 04:12 PM
.........

Table Rocker
05-22-2014, 04:34 PM
On the product that I bought....don't know that I would buy it solely for acoustical performance. Of course I am the guy that rolls his window down at a stop light to hear a good V8 take off. (Also Porsches'). Those sounds never get old for me...so I have kinda trained my hear to listen to my boat when in use. Mainly bought for looks and for the wifey who wanted a quieter boat. Her first time out is this weekend...so i plan on asking her.
It looks great. Job well done.

Rockman
05-22-2014, 06:26 PM
Rockman, were you the one who had problems with the aluminum strip inside the motor box? If so, did you get it back in shape? Did you use rivets?

Yes, have not touched it yet :mad:...we are using the boat this weekend so what I am going to do it to cut out the damaged pieces and see if I can stamp them out next week and put it back...rivots will most likely be the way to go...just hate to to it that way but I do not have any other options right now...

Rockman
05-22-2014, 06:27 PM
On the product that I bought....don't know that I would buy it solely for acoustical performance. Of course I am the guy that rolls his window down at a stop light to hear a good V8 take off. (Also Porsches'). Those sounds never get old for me...so I have kinda trained my hear to listen to my boat when in use. Mainly bought for looks and for the wifey who wanted a quieter boat. Her first time out is this weekend...so i plan on asking her.

LOL...SAME here...:D

bret
05-22-2014, 07:40 PM
My wife noticed a difference, 36 is the point where the noise seems to get back to normal level; 28-34 is really nice but you can still hear the exhaust note but now at the back of the boat :)

wheelerd
05-22-2014, 09:04 PM
Rockman, were you the one who had problems with the aluminum strip inside the motor box? If so, did you get it back in shape? Did you use rivets?

I'm not Rockman:D but I re-riveted the aluminum strip. Was easy. Rivets and tools are cheap.

André
05-22-2014, 09:44 PM
Just finished install the Mcmaster foam.Making the templates is the hardest part.
Did a good job,3 pieces only,no patches! :)

mgs96ps
05-22-2014, 09:46 PM
.......

wheelerd
05-22-2014, 09:47 PM
Just finished install the Mcmaster foam.Making the templates is the hardest part.
Did a good job,3 pieces only,no patches! :)

Pics will be the final judge.:D

Table Rocker
05-22-2014, 10:34 PM
I'm not Rockman:D but I re-riveted the aluminum strip. Was easy. Rivets and tools are cheap.
I just did mine too. 1/8" by 1/4" aluminum rivets were what it took. I already had the rivet gun and fortunately I was able to find it in the garage. O'Reilly had the rivets.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HEL1/57477/N2306.oap?ck=Search_N2306_-1_4075&categoryRedirect=N2306&pt=N2306&ppt=C1983

_fng_
05-22-2014, 10:41 PM
My wife noticed a difference, 36 is the point where the noise seems to get back to normal level; 28-34 is really nice but you can still hear the exhaust note but now at the back of the boat :)

So slower speeds (22-25) it makes a big difference in noise level?

Craig
05-23-2014, 10:18 AM
McMaster foam for me. Great cost-benefit, easy install. Held up great for 4 years, then I sold the boat.

We ski at 34 and 36 mph, never did a ton of cruising around at slow speed. The foam upgrade took the noise level from "Don't bother talking you can't yell loud enough", to "Lean close and talk loudly".

Those are very scientific ratings, measured on a scale of 1-'ear bleed'.

mgs96ps
05-24-2014, 12:22 AM
......

_fng_
05-24-2014, 08:31 AM
Thanks for the feedback, looks like this forum has cost me money once again :D

bret
05-24-2014, 10:25 AM
Cool :D

BTW, very nice install mgs96ps

Wingnut
06-06-2014, 09:48 AM
Great thread----Doing the McMaster Heavy duty foil 1" insulation- FYI the prices have gone up- Think MacMasters has figured out the new market. $140 plus $25 shipping as of June 4th 2014.
Wingnut. Will post pictures.

wheelerd
06-06-2014, 09:53 AM
McMaster should pay me a commission. :D I may have been the one who started it all. Check out posts 20, 24 and 30 earlier in this thread.

Wingnut
06-07-2014, 09:46 AM
Yep I agree commission for sure. - I will say the $25 shipping had it here in 1 Day!!!! Didnt have a choice on shipping method. Its all good. Have a great Weekend!!!!

Jetlag
07-23-2014, 01:38 AM
Tried to order 1" from McMaster-Carr ...

Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from businesses. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We are unable to provide a quotation or accept your orders.

wheelerd
07-23-2014, 11:01 PM
I guess they've changed since I ordered mine 5 or so years ago. Use Reship.com as they have a US address. I've used them probably a dozen times this year alone for various things. In fact, I have a shipment in transit at this moment. Excellent option for you since you are in BC and they are in OR.

dfmaus
08-27-2014, 10:17 PM
I just replaced my insulation with the mcMaster reflective foil, thanks to all in this thread. It was a pretty easy job, especially with the duct tape to cover up all mistakes. Probably 1.5 hours with my son helping to remove the remaining insulation and replace with the new.

Although, I admit, we ran out of daylight before putting the last piece in for the cupholders.

Will give update on sound proofing aspects after this weekend.

Wingnut
08-28-2014, 09:40 AM
I did McMasters Carr and it turned out great- Really works- Easy to install just a pain to get all the old stuff off.

wheelerd
08-28-2014, 11:24 AM
I did McMasters Carr and it turned out great- Really works- Easy to install just a pain to get all the old stuff off.

I used a wire wheel on my drill followed by some acetone and the old stuff came off lickety-split.

c_craig
08-28-2014, 11:58 AM
Great read. This is happening on the '93 soon. Thanks all.

TLR67
03-11-2015, 04:02 PM
I realize you don't check in here all the time, but why wouldn't you want cupholders there??? Mine are never empty. Wish there were three more on the front side too.

LOL... Just seeing this a few years later......


I will just say we Like COLD Beer And Gatorade in the South......:D

c_craig
03-14-2015, 08:30 PM
Stripped clean and new insulation installed (90% done). I did not do the cupholders, as I am not sure about interference under the cover. As stated before, not sure about the vent (in/out) but reinstalled as original, with open cell foam. Can't wait to run it and see the difference, but I think we are several weeks away from open water.

mikeg205
03-14-2015, 09:07 PM
sweet I want to do that one day..

mgs96ps
03-14-2015, 09:27 PM
.......

mgs96ps
03-14-2015, 09:28 PM
.....

wheelerd
03-14-2015, 11:05 PM
Well done. Very pro looking.

PineLakeRumble
05-27-2015, 09:43 PM
I have a question for anyone who installed the Thermo-Tec Cool it insulation. The material adds quite a bit of weight to the engine cover. Both of my gas springs are broken and need to be replaced. I believe this spring is the stock replacement...

http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/detail/?id=fd677c08-6417-4a4c-9551-c52741324413&cid=80cee67d-0849-4d98-a8a0-9fd7b11241d7

I'm wondering if I should up the strength a bit (from 30-40 lbs pressure) to assist with the extra weight...

http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/detail/?id=fd677c08-6417-4a4c-9551-c52741324413&cid=0056e8b7-05d9-40aa-b9e8-a19b2b6560d2

Any thoughts?

waterlogged882
05-27-2015, 10:10 PM
..........

PineLakeRumble
05-27-2015, 10:21 PM
Were your originals 20lbs? If I did my online homework correctly my originals are 30's. I was thinking of moving to 40lbs to compensate for the weight gain. If you're happy with 20's maybe I don't need more strength. Can I ask what model you installed?

waterlogged882
05-27-2015, 10:24 PM
..........

PineLakeRumble
05-27-2015, 11:48 PM
Done. I'm going to go with the 40's. I'll try and source them locally. If I come up with an interesting replacement I'll post the product numbers. Thanks for taking the time to check that out.

flya750
06-07-2015, 01:29 PM
I am in the process of replacing my Engine Box Insulation. I wanted to report that I bought two cans of 3M Adhesive Remover. My advice is same your money and just buy a gallon of Acetone. It was the Acetone and 20+ rags (bought for $3.50) that worked. It took some hard rubbing, but my engine box cleaned up nicely.

Smiffer
06-07-2015, 05:22 PM
Question for those of you whoe replaced yours, how much of a sound difference does it make really? My Sportstar has the two piece doghouse. The foam on the top part is in pretty decent shape. There is no foam at all on the bottom piece though. But after being in neighbors v drive this past weekend I realized how nice it is to not hear all of that motor noise all day. I know it won't be as quiet as a v drive with the engine 3 feet from my head but if it really helps quiet it down some it'll be worth it.

bret
06-10-2015, 06:33 AM
two rolls, $90 bucks, 2-3 hours of your time and it is well worth it...well on the 190 and 205 it's worth it. 36-38 mph seems(for me) to the point where the noise comes back up to normal status but its nice to cruise at 30-32-34 and carry on normal conversation without raising your voice. When wives can tell a difference you know it's working.

paco_06
06-10-2015, 07:48 AM
two rolls, $90 bucks, 2-3 hours of your time and it is well worth it...well on the 190 and 205 it's worth it. 36-38 mph seems(for me) to the point where the noise comes back up to normal status but its nice to cruise at 30-32-34 and carry on normal conversation without raising your voice. When wives can tell a difference you know it's working.
What brand? And where do you get it?

bret
06-10-2015, 08:03 AM
I and several other here have used Cool It Thermo Tec. I've gotten it from Amazon, $42 a roll, roll of tape, and a small hand roller for getting the corners / edges nice and flat.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=722&pictureid=7223

A friend of mine did it to his 205, when we took it out, I was like wow, nice new mufflers and he showed me the Cool It - did mine a month later.

Smiffer
06-10-2015, 04:30 PM
Bret did you just apply it to the upper part of the engine cover? Based on your picture that is what it looks like.

I and several other here have used Cool It Thermo Tec. I've gotten it from Amazon, $42 a roll, roll of tape, and a small hand roller for getting the corners / edges nice and flat.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=722&pictureid=7223

A friend of mine did it to his 205, when we took it out, I was like wow, nice new mufflers and he showed me the Cool It - did mine a month later.

bret
06-17-2015, 12:39 PM
from the metal strip and up.

Emartski10
11-06-2015, 01:38 PM
you guys that have used the Heavy-Duty Heat Reflecting from McMaster-Carr, have you notice the engine box trapping more heat? I have the LT1 in my 93' and it already has some vapor lock issues. The last thing I want to do is turn my engine box into an oven. Also worried about having enough space with 1''.

Rockman
11-06-2015, 01:41 PM
I have not noticed any over heating or excessive engine heat.

Just make sure the area around the cup holders is cut of correctly to get a little bit of air in there...also make sure your vents and tubing from the windshield are not blocked so you can get air in that way as well.

Skier Steve
06-12-2016, 10:39 AM
The old stuff just crumbled as I took it out. Thought I would use it as a pattern, but no go....

Best to make a paper pattern first and then cut out pieces of insulation from flat stock? Or is there a better way?

Anybody make PRE CUT insulation pieces that you can just glue in?

My boat is about 2 hours away, and I don't have measurements. If I want to order flat sheets of insulation and cut it out myself, how much do I need? I'm hoping that someone who has done this before remembers!

Thanks so much.

wheelerd
06-12-2016, 11:37 AM
Check my earlier post #20 in this thread. My install was for a TriStar but the overall quantity of material needed should be similar.

Skier Steve
06-12-2016, 06:38 PM
So, you ordered 8 linear feet of the 54" wide material?

Did you get the aluminum faced material with the adhesive on the back?

Is the adhesive OK at typical motor box temperatures?

Thanks!

wheelerd
06-12-2016, 11:12 PM
Don't remember the exact width. 54" sounds about right. No, I didn't use the aluminum faced stuff -- didn't like the looks of it. I think the plain gray stuff had a higher absorption cooeficient anyway. Adhesive was fine in the 2 years I owned the boat after doing it. I just made sure I cleaned off the old stuff really well.

paintpollz
01-30-2017, 03:52 PM
for those that have used the drill/brush technique so remove the adhesive, is the following brush the type you used along with acetone? This is a 3" version

155940

Skier Steve
01-30-2017, 04:16 PM
That would work, but mostly I just used a putty knife and hand scraped. It was summer, the stuff was soft and came off quite easily. Never bothered with the acetone -- would have evaporated too fast in the 90 -100 F heat!

paintpollz
01-30-2017, 04:23 PM
That would work, but mostly I just used a putty knife and hand scraped. It was summer, the stuff was soft and came off quite easily. Never bothered with the acetone -- would have evaporated too fast in the 90 -100 F heat!

thanks

Stoph68
01-30-2017, 04:31 PM
On my 1990 Tristar I uses a razor blade scraper on the dried up adhesive... Came off easy like dust and surface was like a mirror....

wheelerd
01-30-2017, 05:01 PM
for those that have used the drill/brush technique so remove the adhesive, is the following brush the type you used along with acetone? This is a 3" version

155940

Ya, I recall using something like that for a few of the tougher spots and inner corners.

paintpollz
01-30-2017, 05:48 PM
Ya, I recall using something like that for a few of the tougher spots and inner corners.

Thanks Wheelerd. And another thanks for putting this thread together.

wheelerd
01-30-2017, 08:54 PM
Thanks Wheelerd. And another thanks for putting this thread together.


Well, I didn't start the thread . . . just contributed. But you can send me royalties anyway if you like. :D

flya750
02-02-2017, 01:44 AM
I can attest to the 1" sound absorbing foam that Wheerld used. I bought extra and thank goodness, because you may make some errors? Especially around the cup holders? It cuts well with good scissors.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#5692T13

I used it in my boat. I like that it is light weight and man does it quiet down the engine noise. The only noise I hear is exhaust from behind the boat. I don't think my prostar 190 engine box develops that much heat and that heat reflecting foam is not needed...IMHO. I personally, don't like the reflective look either.

I only needed acetone to remove the old adhesive. I also used a high temp flexible tape to cover the seams. I think the flexible tape adds structure and helps hold up the foam sections. Make sure to get plenty of adhesive on surface to get a solid stick. I've only had one season with the stuff, but it looks like there has been zero wear or deterioration. It all looks just like the day I installed it.

Here is a link to the conformable Tape I bought. Once this tape is applied to the seam, it doesn't come off, so FYI.. - note: This tape is very, very thin and super sticky.. You can apply one piece over another in the seams and still is very thin.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#77375A83

I only used a small amount of tape and have the huge roll left over, but this conformable tape is handy to have in inventory ;)

I had a metal ring at the base of my engine box that had rivets. I drilled out the rivets and got small stainless steel screws to reattach the metal ring. I was able to put the foam under the ring and compress it to give a very nice finish look.

The conformable tape in the seams doesn't look all that pretty, but it sure adds to function by keeping the sections together in case the adhesive gives out. Because the tape conforms to everything, you may see some wrinkles, or the foam seams themselves, but it is awesome flexible tape. I went for form and function over looks on this project. You don't want to use too much tape however, because it does cover up the sound absorbing material.

I added a square patch section of the tape toward the front and inside of the engine box where the perfect pass cable and control is at. The square patch of tape provides a protective surface for the foam from being scratched up or damaged from multiple open and closing of the engine box. The foam can be damaged easily. The tape really does a nice job of creating some protection coating, I can't tell you enough how cool this conformable tape is.

If I have to do this every 7-10 years? So be it..I'd be better at it next time ;) The sound absorbing foam makes for a completely different boating experience. I can talk with passengers in the back while under way. The cabin is super quiet. I'll have to find some of my pics... and post them..

flya750
02-02-2017, 02:21 AM
Here are some pics of my engine box...as I mentioned above, the tape doesn't look the best, but it sure adds function. IMHO...

wheelerd
02-02-2017, 02:39 AM
Nicely done! I don't think the tape looks too bad.
I redid the engine box outer skin and carpeting when I did the insulation so I removed the metal strip like you did. I ended up re-reviting it which was a PITA. Your solution of using screw is a great idea.

flya750
02-02-2017, 02:53 AM
Yeah, I quickly discovered that re-riveting it was going to be a real PIA.. The screws made it super easy and very solid.

Nicely done! I don't think the tape looks too bad.
I redid the engine box outer skin and carpeting when I did the insulation so I removed the metal strip like you did. I ended up re-reviting it which was a PITA. Your solution of using screw is a great idea.

Coach Mike
02-02-2017, 10:18 PM
Mine looks terrible too right now and I'm definitely going to do this after seeing some of these results. Can you tell me how much material you needed for the project?

flya750
02-03-2017, 12:09 AM
I think I read where someone did a prostar box with 8 ft? You have to be precise with zero mistakes with that little of material. I would recommend getting more to be safe. I went with 13 ft. and I have a little left over I've used in other applications.

Of all the upgrades I've done to my boat over the past 20 years, this sound absorbing foam added to the engine box has been one of the best. Can't express enough how the silence is golden. The tune of the exhaust is pure and the stereo is enhanced ;)

Make sure to focus and have four hands available if possible on getting enough adhesive applied before applying the foam material.

Warning: this foam is subject to be torn, or ripped easily. So if your engine box is not bolted down and the box shifts back and you lift up the box, the foam may be ripped by the front of the engine. So I suggest you make sure your engine box bolt downs are solid and functioning at all times. I know in the older boats, those screws that hold down the engine box get lose and the engine box can shift back 2-3" inches.... (I put a protection patch of tape on the inside of my engine box for this very reason)

I think as long as your engine box is solid and you shouldn't have any problems.

If you do get a small tear, covering it with the small piece of conformable tape is a great repair.




Mine looks terrible too right now and I'm definitely going to do this after seeing some of these results. Can you tell me how much material you needed for the project?

Coach Mike
02-03-2017, 08:37 AM
My cover does lock in pretty well because I have the clamps at the front to strap it down too. It is off now for some engine work so easy to do it in the off season.

Any comments on this stuff for the project? They have a thicker version at 3/4" and I could go with that as well?:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11103-Dynaliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001JT5NIU/ref=zg_bs_15736121_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GA2NVFQ3Z6DDGDYX09FK

Here are comments from the manufacturer too:
"Self-Adhesive Peel and Stick Application. Ultra Lightweight and Flexible. Durable Crush and Tear Resistant Material. High Heat Blocking Property for Single Layer Synthetic Foam-Type Material. Oil and Water Resistant. Provides High Acoustic Absorption and Excellent Thermal Insulation."

Coach Mike
02-03-2017, 08:42 AM
This looks very interesting too for the speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LFVKHY?psc=1

I'll try searching here and add this elsewhere, before I start changing the theme of the thread, sorry ...

flya750
02-03-2017, 06:13 PM
I think the Dynaliner would work fine in this application. It is certainly cheaper than the sound absorbing foam from McMasters. My recommendation would to go with the 3/4" thickness to get the best sound absorption. You should be able to do the job with that one 12 ft section.
The Dayliner may prove to wear better over time as well?

In my case, I was going to maximize sound absorption. That is why I went with the specific 70%, 1" thick stuff. I'm happy I did.


My cover does lock in pretty well because I have the clamps at the front to strap it down too. It is off now for some engine work so easy to do it in the off season.

Any comments on this stuff for the project? They have a thicker version at 3/4" and I could go with that as well?:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11103-Dynaliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001JT5NIU/ref=zg_bs_15736121_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GA2NVFQ3Z6DDGDYX09FK

Here are comments from the manufacturer too:
"Self-Adhesive Peel and Stick Application. Ultra Lightweight and Flexible. Durable Crush and Tear Resistant Material. High Heat Blocking Property for Single Layer Synthetic Foam-Type Material. Oil and Water Resistant. Provides High Acoustic Absorption and Excellent Thermal Insulation."

93xs2003
02-05-2017, 12:28 PM
flya750, wheelerd,

It looks like Fly used McMaster xxxxT13 (and contact cement) and Wheeler used xxxxT49 (peel and stick). Is this correct?

I'm inclined to go with the peel and stick. I assume you can position and stick a portion then incrementally pull the backing out of the interface, like you would with rolled ice-barrier on a roof.

Is there any downside to peel and stick? (the adhesive has held up?)

wheelerd
02-05-2017, 12:30 PM
Yes, I used the peel and stick foam. I didn't want to mess with glue. I forget how I actually installed it . . . but it was easy. I owned the boat for another two years after that and there was no issue with the foam coming loose.

flya750
02-05-2017, 07:12 PM
If I had to do it over again, I think I would go with the peel off stuff and maybe have some 3M adhesive on standby...

Coach Mike
02-05-2017, 11:34 PM
Leaning toward these now and I measured that I'll need 2 boxes to do mine.

https://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Hood-Liner-Self-Adhesive-Automotive-Deadening/dp/B00H6X4V7C/ref=sr_1_10?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1486351958&sr=8-10&keywords=fatmat

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11905-Hoodliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B00069QLVC/ref=zg_bs_15736121_15?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EGTTMMNRMT3EY3WHZFP7

They seem pretty much the same and the Dynamat is a little cheaper.

paintpollz
02-06-2017, 11:17 AM
Leaning toward these now and I measured that I'll need 2 boxes to do mine.

https://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Hood-Liner-Self-Adhesive-Automotive-Deadening/dp/B00H6X4V7C/ref=sr_1_10?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1486351958&sr=8-10&keywords=fatmat

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11905-Hoodliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B00069QLVC/ref=zg_bs_15736121_15?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EGTTMMNRMT3EY3WHZFP7

They seem pretty much the same and the Dynamat is a little cheaper.

I saw both of those but I think the McMaster comes out to be the same if not cheaper. Since people have used that with success, I am taking that route.

Coach Mike
02-06-2017, 04:51 PM
I saw both of those but I think the McMaster comes out to be the same if not cheaper. Since people have used that with success, I am taking that route.

What product are you looking at Kevin? The 1" foam foil faced material at McMaster-Carr is very expensive from what I've seen. Looks like about $12.85 per square foot? The others are about $5.40 or less per square foot. Maybe I'm missing something here?


https://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-absorbing-foam/=168o2yb

paintpollz
02-06-2017, 06:16 PM
What product are you looking at Kevin? The 1" foam foil faced material at McMaster-Carr is very expensive from what I've seen. Looks like about $12.85 per square foot? The others are about $5.40 or less per square foot. Maybe I'm missing something here?


https://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-absorbing-foam/=168o2yb

The McMaster-Carr actually more expensive than that. I think most of the people in this thread are using either 1" heat heat reflecting/60% sound absorption/adhesive backed currently priced @ $17.61/lf, or the 1" easy to clean/75% sound absorption/adhesive backed currently priced @ 15.29/lf. You may be able to save $30-$40 by going non adhesive back, but then you have to find an alternative adhesive and trust that it will hold up to the engine heat. In my eyes, the whole reason why we are replacing these is because they fell apart or the glue failed, so I'd rather purchase the adhesive backed product that has already been tested under these conditions.

According to Wheelered, you need 8 linear feet of this stuff (making up 36 sqft), so for the McMaster Carr foil product you are looking @ is approx $165-$175 shipped and for the non foil product, probably around $140-$150 shipped.

If you follow the 36 sqft rule with the Amazon FatMat product, you might come up short with only (2) orders (order size is 34" x 54" x 3/4"). Then what do you do if you fall short, you have to order another sheet of it,,, devastating!!! That puts you over the price of the McMaster-Carr products.

I'm going non-foiled version because I'd rather have the better sound absorption, even though the foil looks neat. I've been pissing and moaning of how much the engine sound in my 197 annoys me since I joined this forum, so I'm purchasing the McMaster-Carr product because according to several accounts and my own analysis, it is the best product you can get for the $$$.

Bret chimed in on an earlier post and said he/she used the "Cool-It" product with success. I've used those asphalt type products before and they've made an absolute mess. So I check the reviews on Amazon, and sure enough, a lot of reviewers said it made an absolute mess of their engines. No thanks, I'll spend the extra $$$$ because boat.

dw1
02-09-2017, 01:57 PM
Has anybody gotten an actual weight of the material as they have done this project? I have checked a couple of the sites for technical data but with no success. Thanks for any concrete feedback.

Sconnie
02-09-2017, 02:01 PM
I used the McMaster-Carr 1" water resistant foam non-adhesive backed on my old boat with 3M Heavy Duty 20 adhesive spray to hold it. I had to find curved things from around the house to push in the corners so I could clamp it. The foam will try and pull away from the internal radius when the spray is wet. It looked great when I was done. After a winter of scraping and cleaning the old foam out I put it back in the boat only to find out it hardly did a thing - the boat wasn't any quieter that I could notice. It was nice having the inside of the box look decent, though. The old insulation - what was left of it - would crumble to powder if you touched it.

flya750
02-09-2017, 02:09 PM
@Paintpollz,

I'd definitely go with the 1" McMasters if you want maximum sound absorption. The easy clean stuff looks good, I personally don't like the shiny aluminum foil look and I don't think heat is an issue in my older Prostar. Heat may be an issue in the newer boats with the catalytic converters?

My ski buddy has a 197 and he was complaining about the noise too. Once he got to drive my boat with the engine box insulation upgrade he couldn't believe the difference.

When my engine is running, I actually have to put my ear up to the box to hear anything mechanical. The only noise I hear now is the exhaust note coming from the back of the boat. The upgrade is just awesome!

I think going with the self adhesion is a good idea. If any section falls down due to adhesion failure, you could just shoot some 3M adhesive on the fallen piece and put it back up. The Easy clean material is clearly a different material than the original foam and I don't think it will break down like the original foam crap did. If I have to replace it again in 7+ years, so be it. The sound absorption option is no longer an option in my boat, its mandatory. It's a completely different boating experience now. ;) Good Luck!



I'm going non-foiled version because I'd rather have the better sound absorption, even though the foil looks neat. I've been pissing and moaning of how much the engine sound in my 197 annoys me since I joined this forum, so I'm purchasing the McMaster-Carr product because according to several accounts and my own analysis, it is the best product you can get for the $$$.

paintpollz
02-09-2017, 06:14 PM
It looked great when I was done. After a winter of scraping and cleaning the old foam out I put it back in the boat only to find out it hardly did a thing - the boat wasn't any quieter that I could notice.

Liar!!!!!

8p

Did you do it in your 210 VRS? Because I'll tell you from first hand experience, having a chevy 350 a foot and a half away from your left ear drum gets LOUD.

flya750
02-09-2017, 06:26 PM
The difference I noticed was mind blowing....It's a completely different boat and stereo ;). How could 1" sound absorbing foam NOT make a difference?

paintpollz
02-10-2017, 11:46 AM
All - has anyone done this on a 197 with an LTR? flya750 made a good point about clearance so I wanted to double check...

Sconnie
02-12-2017, 07:59 PM
Liar!!!!!

8p

Did you do it in your 210 VRS? Because I'll tell you from first hand experience, having a chevy 350 a foot and a half away from your left ear drum gets LOUD.

No, my current boat is pretty quiet. I did it on an 89 Maristar with a 454. I think the lower frequecies of the big block are harder to dampen maybe. New insulation did make a difference in a Malibu my friend had. I remember reading an old thread before I did it and it seemed about 50/50 on whether or not it made much difference.

Sconnie
02-12-2017, 08:21 PM
The difference I noticed was mind blowing....It's a completely different boat and stereo ;). How could 1" sound absorbing foam NOT make a difference?

Not sure, just speaking from my one experience. I'm no audio engineer, but I have some limited experience with this sort of thing from specifying large backup generators for hospitals, etc in urban areas. I think people have unreasonable expectations for what the foam can do. Keep in mind most of this stuff was made to quiet down industrial machinery so it was likely designed to work best at a higher frequency range than we are using it for. It would be interestingto get a pros opinion. I think Larry Lashburn works in the entertainment audio business, he might have some insight.

jakethebt
02-12-2017, 10:43 PM
I ordered the 1" foil backed insulation with adhesive back. It came this week and just picked up the silver tape from Lowes today. Can't wait to get the boat out of storage and get this project done. I have been without any insulation since we bought the boat.

Fullpass
02-13-2017, 01:38 AM
From the Net...

To absorb sound, friction is needed to absorb the sound wave, such as a fiber/woven material, ( like the type of material you see under car hoods ) or a more open porous structure type of foam. Like the original foam the MasterCraft factory had installed...it worked, just didn't hold up, and was hard to replace. The seating area in a boat could help absorb sound...it does to an extent...but MasterCraft could add a material along the gun walls to help even more. Hadn't decided how to do mine...but thinking it will be a fiber/woven material and removable...no glue.

paintpollz
02-13-2017, 10:18 AM
Hmmm. Definitely going to have issues clearing the PP servo

has anyone done this with a two piece dog box & LTR motor?

Coach Mike
02-14-2017, 01:51 PM
You can confirm clearances with clay in areas that you think might be tight.

I have the same set-up with two piece cover and LTR motor. Going with the 3/4" Fatmat stuff though. Hope to start within the next couple of weeks. Will post pics along the way too.

paintpollz
02-15-2017, 10:28 AM
You can confirm clearances with clay in areas that you think might be tight.

I have the same set-up with two piece cover and LTR motor. Going with the 3/4" Fatmat stuff though. Hope to start within the next couple of weeks. Will post pics along the way too.

OK. Mike, since your the coach, I'm going to let you guinea pig this one so I can learn from the best :)

flya750
02-15-2017, 04:35 PM
I have a whole roll of this awesome conforming tape left over from my project. Like I told you in a PM, I'm not sure I like the idea that I used the tape on the seams, but where I did use the tape was in a small area at the front of the engine to protect a small portion. I created a small tape patch that if anything rubs on it, it will not damage the foam. This tape is awesome stuff.. Super thin and super tough, you can't rip it.

I'm not sure how much clearance issue you have? But maybe you could create a small patch of protection? I could snail mail you a small roll of the tape instead of you buying a whole roll? The stuff is expensive. I think I paid like $70 bucks for the roll.

My goal on this project wasn't necessarily looks, it was all about function and killing the sound. So that is why I'm so glad I was able to go with the 1" stuff.

BTW, the tape is black, kind of a satan color... super strong and super thin...

Hmmm. Definitely going to have issues clearing the PP servo

has anyone done this with a two piece dog box & LTR motor?

Coach Mike
02-15-2017, 06:58 PM
OK. Mike, since your the coach, I'm going to let you guinea pig this one so I can learn from the best :)
Well, thanks for the vote of confidence here :)
The stuff showed up today and I'm not home until tomorrow, so I'll comment on the quality "feel" when I get back and see it first hand. Probably will start the install in a couple of weeks as I had some unexpected stuff happen with my wife's truck. Priorities vs stuff I wanna do? Hmmm ... better take care of the wife first. Yep, definitely, wife first ... :rolleyes:

SKIBUMM
02-15-2017, 07:51 PM
I have been looking at doing this project as well. Wondering if anyone has used Dynamat or other car audio deadening material?

wheelerd
02-15-2017, 08:31 PM
I have been looking at doing this project as well. Wondering if anyone has used Dynamat or other car audio deadening material?

Read back through this thread.:D Dynamat is mentioned several times. See post #18 for ex.

Coach Mike
02-16-2017, 04:06 PM
Well, thanks for the vote of confidence here :)
The stuff showed up today and I'm not home until tomorrow, so I'll comment on the quality "feel" when I get back and see it first hand. Probably will start the install in a couple of weeks as I had some unexpected stuff happen with my wife's truck. Priorities vs stuff I wanna do? Hmmm ... better take care of the wife first. Yep, definitely, wife first ... :rolleyes:

Just got home and opened the 3/4" Fatmat that I got through Amazon. Looks pretty good, but will reserve final judgement until I install it. Seemed like the reviews commented more in favor of the Fatmat over the Dynamat for tackiness of the adhesive so that's why I went with FM even though it cost a little more - I bought two rolls. I was also surprised that in the bottom of the box was a knife and roller tool. Basically just a simple wall paper roller - nothing special about it and I already have a bunch of those around here.

Now on to the truck repairs ...

paintpollz
02-19-2017, 04:34 PM
well this is horrible. Coach Mike, save yourself while you still can.

I've gone thru about a gallon of acetone and about 10 rags. I might be a quarter of the way there. Going to the store now to get a putty knife to see if that may help. If anyone has any other suggestions, let me know.

wheelerd
02-19-2017, 05:18 PM
Have you tried a wire brush on the end of a drill? That's what I used for the tough spots.

paintpollz
02-19-2017, 05:39 PM
Have you tried a wire brush on the end of a drill? That's what I used for the tough spots.

wire brush is no bueno.

the adhesive is incredibly think in several areas. the wire brush just spreads it around.

I got a tip from the hulltruth. No fume easy off. Going to the store to get that and more acetone now.

Fullpass
02-19-2017, 08:05 PM
Been there done that...

I had used cloth MICROFIBER shop rags along with the acetone..helped with the removal process.

paintpollz
02-20-2017, 12:07 AM
Easy off is not great either.

I think the acetone is the best tool, along with some good rags.

Coach Mike
02-20-2017, 01:17 AM
well this is horrible. Coach Mike, save yourself while you still can.

I've gone thru about a gallon of acetone and about 10 rags. I might be a quarter of the way there. Going to the store now to get a putty knife to see if that may help. If anyone has any other suggestions, let me know.

Haven't started it yet, but the old stuff is gonna go. Might still be a couple of weeks out yet. Hope yours gets better soon. Definitely don't want to do anything that will have that old stuff flying around though.

Coach Mike
02-21-2017, 08:46 AM
Easy off is not great either.

I think the acetone is the best tool, along with some good rags.

Any more progress Kevin? I looked at mine over the weekend - didn't start yet though. The stuff that's there is pretty much dust if you touch it. I'm thinking I'll start with a scraper to basically get the foam material out and down to the adhesive. Then likely the acetone route might be my best bet from there.

Want to wait for a nice day to do the whole thing outside with good ventilation for sure. We had great weather for February this weekend in Chicagoland, but of course I had to get the truck fixed first. Wife is happy, so now I can get back to the boat projects :)