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wakewander
05-24-2009, 10:06 PM
In the near future I want to change the seals in my transmission. Can anyone help me out with this? How do adjust to engine mounts? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm pretty handy and want to do the work myself.

JimN
05-24-2009, 10:10 PM
In the near future I want to change the seals in my transmission. Can anyone help me out with this? How do adjust to engine mounts? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm pretty handy and want to do the work myself.

Don't touch the motor mounts, just separate the motor and transmission and unbolt the transmission from the stringers. Support the rear of the motor before the transmission comes out, at the same height it is now. I usually used wood for this (2x4, etc).

wakewander
05-24-2009, 10:20 PM
How do you know if it is perfectly straight? I don't think that it is perfect from someone before. There are no vibrations in the shaft at all, nor sounds. I just think that it can get better.

JimN
05-24-2009, 10:30 PM
Why do you want to change the seals? Is it leaking?

You could have mentioned the fact that you don't think it's correct in your first post.

The procedure should be in the FAQ section. If not, doing a search for threads about alignment should get more than enough information. You'll need a feeler gauge to check the coupler gaps and since you're removing the transmission, it would be a good time to make sure the strut bearings (AKA cutlass bearings) are in good condition. If they're worn unevenly, the alignment is not right. Alignment is one of the 100 hour scheduled maintenance steps, meaning every 100 hours.

wakewander
05-24-2009, 10:44 PM
The seal (rear) is leaking just a very little bit. I don't think that the bushings are bad. I would say that the alignment is close but i want to make it perfect. I have gone through and trying to fix/redo the whole boat. What is and what does the gauge are you referring to?

JimN
05-24-2009, 11:01 PM
The seal (rear) is leaking just a very little bit. I don't think that the bushings are bad. I would say that the alignment is close but i want to make it perfect. I have gone through and trying to fix/redo the whole boat. What is and what does the gauge are you referring to?

Here's a link:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-68100-Deluxe-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B0009OMY9C

It has many thin metal leaves that are gauged in specific thicknesses, that are slipped between two objects or surfaces. If one is too thin, you would use whatever additional leaves fit snugly, but don't need to be forced.

wakewander
05-24-2009, 11:06 PM
Thanks, is there a video that shows the process or written instructions?

JimN
05-25-2009, 11:32 AM
Thanks, is there a video that shows the process or written instructions?

I've never heard of one.

Here's a photo that shows a mount. If yours are the same, it will require the same adjustments.

The solid rod is for side-to-side movement only and with both horizontal and vertical adjustment, a little goes a long way, so mark the starting points with a black fine point Sharpie. For the threaded vertical adjusters, mark the mount (use white tape so you can see the marks from the Sharpie) and the bottom nut on each mount, then make sure you count and write on paper the number of rotations.

You need to think about how the adjusters will affect the movement of the shaft coupler in order to correct any misalignment, because it's not a particularly intuitive process. Think of this as a table or chair that wobbles- raising only one corner is like removing the matchbook that keeps it steady or having a board with an adjustment bolt at each corner and you need to get a ball bearing to stay in a small circle at the center. A small change will make it tilt enough to make it roll off.

After marking the home position (this is needed in case it ends up really screwed up, and that's easy to do if it's the first time adjusting this), you need to loosen the four nuts holding the coupler halves together. DO NOT USE OPEN END WRENCHES FOR THIS!!!!!!!! Use sockets (preferably 6 point, not 12 point) and box wrenches.

Once these are loosened by about 1/4", back the shaft out a little and make sure it moves freely in the strut (If it doesn't, a couple of drops of light oil at the top of where the shaft goes through the strut and a few rotations should make it easier). Mark the couplers at one bolt hole with a number 1. Rotate the shaft and mark the next bolt holes with a 2, and repeat for all four.

Slide the couplers closer (stack about .010" of feeler gauge leaves and slip it between the couplers at one bolt. Then, lightly snug (finger tight) the bolts with the gauge in place. Now, remove the gauge and rotate it so the top bolt is at 12:00. The gap can change just by removing the gauge and rotating the shaft, so don't worry if it does, it will be adjusted later. If the coupler halves are in contact at any point, it's way off.

Measure the gap at each bolt with the feeler gauge and write this on your paper. If you see more than .003" difference, you'll need to make some adjustments.

Rotate the shaft 1/4 turn and remeasure the gap at each bolt without further shaft rotation (immediately adjacent is fine), writing the results at each bolt.

Repeat this with all four bolts at 12:00 and write the measurements on the paper. If you have Excel, you can use the sheet I have attached.

Look for any variations at each bolt. if the 12:00/6:00 bolt gap is largest, the front of the motor need to be raised/lowered. If the 3:00/9:00 is greatest, it needs lateral adjustment. In some cases, only one side needs to be raised and this is where it gets a bit tricky when it comes to determining how much adjustment is needed (and also the reason for marking the starting point).

If you raise the motor at one end, you need to raise by the same amount at both adjusters.

Once the motor is aligned, look at the shaft as it passes through the strut- you need to make sure it's centered in the bearings. If there's a visible gap between the plastic bearing and the shaft, it may need replacement (they should be replaced as a pair). If there's a major difference (the bearing is worn thin and the opposite side is still thicker, the strut probably needs to be adjusted, too. This is best done with two people.

wakewander
05-26-2009, 08:29 AM
thanks again for the information.

jbfootin
06-08-2009, 09:26 PM
Up and down is easy...how do you adjust side to side? Am I missing something? It looks like it has large bolts to lock into position, but how do i fine tune adjust it side to side?

Whitfield
06-08-2009, 09:41 PM
Up and down is easy...how do you adjust side to side? Am I missing something? It looks like it has large bolts to lock into position, but how do i fine tune adjust it side to side?

For side to side you would use the other pice that is not shown. The smooth round rod slides into a female tube (in the block mounted section) and then secures with pinch bolts. Loosen the pinchbolts to adjust side to side.

I've yet to do mine (Pulled the engine and trans out yesterday)~ But i'll bet that side to side with all 4 mounts loose can get crazy.

jbfootin
06-08-2009, 10:06 PM
For side to side you would use the other pice that is not shown. The smooth round rod slides into a female tube (in the block mounted section) and then secures with pinch bolts. Loosen the pinchbolts to adjust side to side.

I've yet to do mine (Pulled the engine and trans out yesterday)~ But i'll bet that side to side with all 4 mounts loose can get crazy.

I see the smooth rod. I was wondering if there was a way to fine tune other than loosen and bump it over and hope you go far enough or not too far...and if you need to go back to where you started, how do you do it? The up and down you can count turns at least.

Whitfield
06-08-2009, 10:40 PM
My early 80's PCM manual says: The mounts can be raised or lowered by screwing the lower nuts up or down in the desired direction and side to side by prying against the block.

Side to Side adjustment must be limited to a maximum of 1 - 3/4 extension of the trunion from the mount bracket. Extension of more can cause bending of the trunion and possiable mount failure.

I just picked up the new to me manual yesterday and I'm reading thru it like it were porn.

jbfootin
06-09-2009, 09:21 AM
When do you know whether to adjust front or rear mounts?

jbfootin
06-09-2009, 11:52 PM
Well I moved the flanges around 1/4" apart and adjusted the rear of the motor to where the flanges lined up very close. The rear of the motor had to be lowered 1 turn. Then brought the flanges together and the top gap was at 0.006 and the bottom was around 0.025, so I had to lower the front. The passenger side lowered with out problem, but the driver side turns VERY hard. I checked after each half turn and each half turn brought the top and bottom numbers 0.005" closer together. I got 1-1/2 turns out of each side but then the driver side seemed to bottom out. The motor mount is still in the middle of the adjusting bolt and the jam nut is free.

Why will it not turn? I had a cresent wrench with a cheater bar and could not turn it any farther.

jbfootin
06-10-2009, 05:37 PM
bump...

Can anyone help on why my motor mount is acting like it is bottoming out, when it is not. I am trying to lower the engine but can not turn the bolt.

Help

JimN
06-10-2009, 08:04 PM
bump...

Can anyone help on why my motor mount is acting like it is bottoming out, when it is not. I am trying to lower the engine but can not turn the bolt.

Help

Get some PB Blaster and soak the nut/thread, letting it sit for an hour, or so. Before this, look at the underside of the net to see if it has a lot of rust. If it does, maybe more time will be needed. Have you tried turning it in the opposite direction yet?

coz
06-10-2009, 08:30 PM
There are no vibrations in the shaft at all, nor sounds. I just think that it can get better.

If it isn't broke why on earth would you try to make it better? and what exactly are you gonna make better? no vibrations or sounds what do you think is wrong? :confused:

jbfootin
06-10-2009, 10:07 PM
Get some PB Blaster and soak the nut/thread, letting it sit for an hour, or so. Before this, look at the underside of the net to see if it has a lot of rust. If it does, maybe more time will be needed. Have you tried turning it in the opposite direction yet?

I let it soak overnight and only got another 1/4 turn out of it. It turns hard in both directions, but I got it close enough. I am at 0.003 off, so I guess it doesn't matter. The bolt is rust free and the jam nut spins by hand on it no problem. It is almost as though the bolt does not want to turn. Like it is binding on the bottom.

emnesto
06-11-2009, 12:24 AM
FrankSchwab just posted detailed instructions on the Irritating Noise thread. I believe it will answer most of your questions. Go to Irritating Noise thread and see the file attached to the first reply.

vogelm1
06-12-2009, 11:55 AM
Looking for thoughts on this related situation... the 9 o'clock/3 o'clock specs were off on my boat (3 o'clock position was wide) so I marked the "slide" portion of the mounts with a Sharpie and loosened the front mounts, and right rear mount to pivot the engine a bit in the direction needed. Got the spec to .002 all the way around the flange and locked everything down. Cool so far, but here's the questionable part - the engine moved on left front mount about 1/8 inch (seemed like quite a bit), and appeared to not move at all on the right mount. Is there a chance there may have been some "flex" in the cast arm that attaches to the block and I simply relieved it, or am I over-thinking all this. I would have expected both front mounts to move approximately the same distance.:confused: