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prostar190jap
05-20-2009, 12:09 PM
I have a 1992 trailer with an A-60 brake actuator on it. The issue that I'm having is with the fluid. After every trip I have to add more brake fluid to the reservor. So I'm not sure it its leaking out or evaporating off, if thats possible. Any ideas? Also does anyone know where I can get the quick disconnect for the brake line? This quick disconnect allows you to remove the brake line so you can remove the entire actuator. Any help would be great.

flipper
05-20-2009, 12:19 PM
You must have a leak some where.

deereman
05-20-2009, 12:36 PM
we have a prostar and the surge brakes don't work. we aren't a big fan of the surge brakes and the actuator doesn't even work. we have no problem stopping it with an 07 GMC Yukon XL, so we are just leaving them unhooked.

prostar190jap
05-20-2009, 02:44 PM
It's funny because brake fluid is corrosive right? So if there was a leak I would see a some of the paint on the trailer coming off. So far eveything is okay and I can't see an signs of leaking. I might just replace the entire actuator. i kind of have to have the brakes, I have an FJ crusier that we use to tow the boat.

flipper
05-20-2009, 02:47 PM
Doesn't have to be at the actuator. Could be anywhere between it and the brakes at the wheels.

prostar190jap
05-20-2009, 02:59 PM
Have not looked in the drums yet buy they are painted.

454Prostar190
05-20-2009, 05:23 PM
Look on the inside sidewall of your tires. If you have a wheel cylinder leaking or fluid leak at a fitting, my experience is that the inside of the tire is wet and tells you where to start looking.

captain planet
05-20-2009, 05:40 PM
I had the same trouble on my 98 trailer. I was losing fluid but couldn't find the leak. I had no paint coming off anywhere. Turns out the bolt/fitting that screws into the back of the wheel cylinder had backed itself out a little and was leaking. As a result the wheel cylinder had pulled water into it and it froze. The new cylinders I purchased from my dealer are all aluminum.

Good luck.

prostar190jap
05-20-2009, 06:03 PM
Cool thanks guys. I will check that out when I get home.

sortloff
05-20-2009, 06:55 PM
I've had trouble with the brake lines rusting where they are run inside the trailer tubing. Sometimes water can stay inside the trailer causing the lines to corrode. Also, they can rub inside there.

If they leak inside the tubing, you will only notice the fluid when it runs out the very back if/when the trailer is tipped up in the front.

I re-ran new brake lines outside of the tubing so that I could inspect then and not have to worry about rusting, rubbing, etc... Hope you find a simpler problem and solution!

Steve.

p.s. This repair was on a '98 trailer. My current 2001 trailer brakes are still going strong. I did replace the shock.

deereman
05-21-2009, 01:01 AM
maybe think about putting electric brakes on the trailer--much nicer and you can control how much power you need to stop it. you could do it for probably around $300.

east tx skier
05-21-2009, 12:05 PM
I'll put my money on your brake lines rusting. In the early 90s, MC wrapped the lines in a rubber sheath of sorts. It traps water and rusts the lines. Who knew these things might get wet. If you have to replace them, do it with stainless.

prostar190jap
05-21-2009, 04:07 PM
Stainless is the way to go. What size is that brake line? 3/8?

east tx skier
05-21-2009, 04:55 PM
Stainless is the way to go. What size is that brake line? 3/8?

Don't know. Had my local mom and pop brake shop do all the work, which involved new actuator, wheel cylinders, and ss lines. Ran about $350. Purchased the actuator and cylinders from www.trailersbydorsey.com and recommend them highly.

WTRSK1R
05-21-2009, 04:56 PM
I'll put my money on your brake lines rusting. In the early 90s, MC wrapped the lines in a rubber sheath of sorts. It traps water and rusts the lines. Who knew these things might get wet. If you have to replace them, do it with stainless.

Eastie hit it on the head. I had a '92 and the brake line rusted out about half way down the trailer channel. The only way to repair it is to pull the actuator and the brake line all the way out after disconnecting it from the splitter on the axel. If I remember correctly, it was about 16 foot of brake line which was a challenge to find locally and I ended up going through an on-line trailer supply store. I had exactly the same symptom. I could add fluid about every other trip to the lake. The really funny thing is you could even bleed the brakes and it seemed to build pressure until the next time you towed it.

Mine was 1/4 inch brake line.

I would bet money on a leak in the line in the fancy plastic tubing that they used in that vintage.

Steve

Muttley
05-21-2009, 06:57 PM
Brake line? I would have said it's time to rebuild the brake cylinders. Well, if it ain't the line....

prostar190jap
05-21-2009, 08:19 PM
Yea probably. I'm affraid to pull off the drums! It could be nasty in there.