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View Full Version : Engine oil leak between engine and tranny.


hkallestad
04-22-2009, 04:45 PM
Prostar 190 1989. Fired the engine today for the first time this season, and changed to elctronic ignition, engine running much better now. I noticed a engine oil leak coming down the front of the flywheel assembly, must be the oil pan seal???? Is it possible to change the oil pan seal without moving the engine??

denverd1
04-23-2009, 11:56 AM
possibly. depends on how comfy you are working blind and by feel.

Could also be valve cover gasket. or rear seal - hopefully not.

flipper
04-23-2009, 12:01 PM
Prostar 190 1989. Fired the engine today for the first time this season, and changed to elctronic ignition, engine running much better now. I noticed a engine oil leak coming down the front of the flywheel assembly, must be the oil pan seal???? Is it possible to change the oil pan seal without moving the engine??

You could probably get away with it, but pulling the engine is pretty easy for one, and you're going to make a he!! of a mess in your boat if you try to do it in the boat.

hkallestad
04-24-2009, 05:26 AM
It will be a mess for sure, I havent got got carpet in the boat now tho. I'll have a closer look to find the leakpoint first.

CantRepeat
04-24-2009, 06:36 AM
If it is running down the flywheel I'm gonna say rear seal not oil pan. But that is just my guess. If you pull the motor out I would just do both of them. Much better then doing the oil pan in the boat.

Gamble
04-24-2009, 01:26 PM
my guess is the rear main seal is going bad like Maristar said...........

Bruce Carr
04-27-2009, 08:34 AM
On '85 and newer Ford Windsor engines, you can replace the rear main seal without taking the pan off. Just pull the trans and flexplate to get access to the seal. Do a search on the net for pictures and instructions.

hkallestad
04-29-2009, 06:24 AM
If its the rear seal, dou you think the leak will get worse quickly?

CantRepeat
04-29-2009, 07:05 AM
It may not leak any more then it is now, forever. But, it could turn into a quart an hour the next time you start it. It's going to be upto as to when and how to change it. The way I look at these things is a couple of late nights during the week are much better then getting to a big weekend and then the boat breaks/leaks. Then you're out for the weekend anyway.

hkallestad
05-01-2009, 09:37 AM
Heres a picture i took today, oil is coming out and running down the plate at the flywheel.

Gamble
05-01-2009, 10:48 AM
looks like rear main to me.

CantRepeat
05-01-2009, 11:38 AM
looks like rear main to me.

I agree with rear main. x2

hkallestad
05-01-2009, 01:10 PM
Ok thanks! It's leaking a little bit more than I like so I'll go for fixing it. If I pull the tranny, do I have to/should I change other seals/gaskets than the main rear, not related to te oil leak offcourse, but because I break connections while taking of the tranny?

CantRepeat
05-01-2009, 01:32 PM
You could change the front seal in the transmission while you have it out. Make sure you put a little grease on the inside edge of the tranny seal when you go to put it on so you don't end up cutting it when you install it.

I do agree that pulling the transmission is easier then pulling the motor. Make sure you do a good shaft alignment once you get the transmission back in.

hkallestad
05-03-2009, 04:17 AM
So, for the rear seal it's like this:

-Drain oil from engine, possibly drain oil from tansmission.

-Disconnect Tranny from propeller shaft.

-Remove engine from hull or jack it up in the rear.

-Remove starter

-Pull tranny together with bell housing in one go.

-Remove damper plate.

-Change rear main seal.

-Put everything together again and allign tranny-propeller shaft connection.


I guess this sounds like a plan? Any comments?

CantRepeat
05-03-2009, 07:11 AM
I would remove the transmission from the bell housing and then take the bell housing out. If you push the prop shaft done far enough you could get away with just setting the transmission in the floor of the boat. You might need to pull the prop off to get the shaft to go down far enough.

You'll have to suspend back of the motor up somehow.

When you say damper plate I assume that you know you will need to remove the flywheel as well.

Using a cotter pin puller might be the best tool for pulling the old seal out.

http://www.serenitysys.com/MB/Service_Info/Turbo_Tweak/cotter_pin_puller.jpg

You will also need to propshaft alignment when you put the transmission back in as well.

hkallestad
05-03-2009, 09:06 AM
I was suspecting to take the flywheel of as well, but wasn't sure beacause in all the threads I've read only that the damper plate has been mentioned. I'll go for taking the engine out of the boat. I have a setup ready, just need the seals. Is 100$ reasonable for the rear seal and oil pan gasket( one piece both) ???

CantRepeat
05-03-2009, 10:45 AM
Well, you're in Norway so I really can't come pair prices with you. I wonder how much it cost to ship the part there.

At napa a one piece oil pan gasket is $29 and the rear main is between $14 and $56 so I would guess under a $100 if you need the $56 rear main it's an ok price.

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:24 AM
Is there any reason why you would split the tranny from the bellhousing and then take the bellhousing of? Instead of taking the tranny with the whole bellhousing of together?

CantRepeat
05-05-2009, 05:59 AM
Well, if you pull the transmission from the bell housing you only need to pull it back about 2 inches to clear the input shaft. If you pull the bell housing I think you will need more room. Maybe 4 or 5 inches.

Are pulling the motor because you're going to do the oil pan as well?

Le me know how this turns out and take photos while you're doing it please.

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 11:32 AM
I'm taking the engine out of the boat since it's so quick and easy, I've ordered the oil pan gasket as well so I'm changing that one as well. I'll take pitcures.

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:37 PM
Motor coming out, had to make custom lifting eyes for the engine because the freshwater cooling is blocking the original one in the front. A bit scary having the engine hanging over the hull:cool:

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:38 PM
Engine is out, what a beauty!

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:40 PM
Starter taken off, easy job both in boat and off, just use an extension for the hidden bolt, no prob.

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:42 PM
Tranny taken off together with bell housing, came off like a buttersmooth dream, no corrosion in the spline.

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:43 PM
Damper plate off, 6 bolts.

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:44 PM
Flywheel about to come off.

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:45 PM
Flywheel and plate taken off.

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:46 PM
Here's the sinner!

hkallestad
05-05-2009, 03:49 PM
BadaBing!!!! You can see the engine oil at the bottom there. Will hopefully have the new seal tomorrow, will post back then!

hkallestad
05-06-2009, 03:09 PM
Got the wrong seals today, both the rear main and the oil pan gasket was for a 302. not 351, burn!

I'll get new ones in 2 days. What sealant should i use in addition to the oil pan gasket?? Some kind og silicone? What would take oil and heat?

CantRepeat
05-06-2009, 04:02 PM
If the pan gasket is cork just use enough blue silicone to hold it to the pan. If it's rubber use nothing. I would use a damb all along the rubber gasket that goes at the bottom of the timing chain cover and some at rear main cap gasket.

I would also suggest that if you have not broken the seal on the oil pan don't do it now. If it's not leaking it probably never will.

hkallestad
05-06-2009, 04:50 PM
I've allready taken the pan of, very eager you know;-)

I'm using the rubber gasket, what do you mean by "damb"(i'm a stupid Norwegian;-), put on blue silicone around the timing chain cover and at the rear??

hkallestad
05-06-2009, 05:03 PM
Drilled holes in the seal to get somwhere to grip on it.

hkallestad
05-06-2009, 05:05 PM
Screwed a bolt in one of the holes, and jerked the seal out. Need to be careful so you dont damage seal surface on the crank and block.

hkallestad
05-06-2009, 05:07 PM
Clean and ready for a fresh oiled up seal. This is as far as I got today, got the wrong seal size:mad:

CantRepeat
05-06-2009, 06:25 PM
I've allready taken the pan of, very eager you know;-)

I'm using the rubber gasket, what do you mean by "damb"(i'm a stupid Norwegian;-), put on blue silicone around the timing chain cover and at the rear??

Sorry, bad spelling. I meant to say a dab as in a little amount. There should be a rubber gasket that goes in a slot on at the bottom of the timing chain cover where the oil pan meets it. Same with the rear main bearing cap. I would put a small dab all the way acrossed those.

CantRepeat
05-06-2009, 06:28 PM
Oh if the new rear main seal doesn't have any type of sealer on the outter edge you may want to put a thin coat of permetex sealer on it.

hkallestad
05-10-2009, 04:23 PM
Finally got the correct seal, tapped it carfully in using the old one on top of the new one.

hkallestad
05-10-2009, 04:27 PM
No pictures of the oil pan operation. Got the 3-part cork/rubber oil pan seal, did order the one piece rubber tho, but the supplier messed up again, didn't want to wait anymore so I went for the cork seal. Used blue silicone as well. Engine going back in.

hkallestad
05-10-2009, 04:29 PM
Fingers crossed, tes run. No leaks yet, happy!

Gamble
05-10-2009, 04:41 PM
Great job..........nice photos too!

CantRepeat
05-10-2009, 05:18 PM
Very nice, now let's see some photos of it on the water and you enjoying your work!!

hkallestad
05-11-2009, 04:05 AM
Thanks! Here's a 2 pic's from last season of me and a mate, ha ha!

CantRepeat
05-11-2009, 11:21 AM
Thanks! Here's a 2 pic's from last season of me and a mate, ha ha!

That second one looks like it's gonna hurt!!! Putting your hands out to brace for a fall on water :toast: