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View Full Version : Ford 351W Rebuild and Upgrade Build Diary


samtechwaterski
04-21-2009, 11:23 PM
Hey everyone, I have had multiple post in this section and thought I would go ahead and start a new one for update pictures ect. For those who do not know. I have been in the process of rebuilding the 351w out of my 1993 Prostar. The transmission has been rebuild and so has the motor.

The motor was bored .030 over, new Keith Black pistons, a hotter camshaft. New Edelbrock Performer Intake. The Gt40 heads were re worked. The compression ratio has been brought up from the stock 8.8:1 to 9.4:1. The motor was completely rebuild with new gaskets ect. It looks like a brand new motor its great. I cant wait to get her running and dialed in. Here are pictures so far from the build.

While the motor was out I replaced the steering cable degreased the bilge and rewired the blower, bilge pump ect. New blower hoses.

samtechwaterski
04-21-2009, 11:25 PM
I also Replaced the Spark Plugs with NGK TR6 they are one step colder than the recommended Autolite

samtechwaterski
04-21-2009, 11:26 PM
More Pictures Including the Sandblasting and Painting

samtechwaterski
04-21-2009, 11:28 PM
Even More Pictures. Atleast Pictures are better than words

samtechwaterski
04-21-2009, 11:29 PM
For Some reason the blue valve covers look alot lighter than they really are

03 35th Anniversary
04-21-2009, 11:47 PM
When you reworked your GT-40 heads what all did you have done?

I'm sure with the up in compression, new cam, and intake you went with a bigger valves than the stock 1.84/1.46.

samtechwaterski
04-21-2009, 11:53 PM
ya a little bigger valves. had them all machined ect. The main thing really was all the hardware springs ect, were replaced. Alot of the guide rods were slightly bend so those were changed. It was nothing that you could see but the machine shop caught it so beware. By the way 03 35th Anniversary. I am loving your restoration of the 190 I check for updates all the time. I would love to see it when its done. My family lives not to far from you.

Sam

03 35th Anniversary
04-22-2009, 12:01 AM
ya a little bigger valves. had them all machined ect. The main thing really was all the hardware springs ect, were replaced. Alot of the guide rods were slightly bend so those were changed. It was nothing that you could see but the machine shop caught it so beware. By the way 03 35th Anniversary. I am loving your restoration of the 190 I check for updates all the time. I would love to see it when its done. My family lives not to far from you.

Sam

Good, I hate to see a person do everything you just did then not put bigger valves in the heads. It turns out to be a real disappointment in performance. The compression and cam doesn't matter if the heads don't flow.


Thanks

Where does your family live around here?

BriEOD
04-22-2009, 06:19 PM
Looks great!

CantRepeat
04-22-2009, 06:44 PM
AH! I wanted to see the new slugs going in!!! Did you paint or repowered coat the valve covers?

samtechwaterski
04-22-2009, 06:55 PM
I painted the valve covers with hitemp enamel. That was quite a job. First the covers were cleaned up, then primed. then the silver enamel was shot. Then they were painstakingly masked off and shot with the blue. I think they came out really well.

Sam

03 35th Anniversary
04-22-2009, 07:05 PM
The plastic you have covering the carpet. Is that just plain ole plastic or does it have a sticky side like what comes on new boats from the factory. If it is the sticky stuff, where did you get it from?

Craig
04-22-2009, 09:07 PM
This is excellent, very impressive. I am curious to see what kind of performance boost you will see, any idea?

Slinkyredfoot
04-22-2009, 09:32 PM
Very nice, nothing like popping the engine cover and seeing somthing as detailed and smooth like this motor...:cool:

Enjoy your efforts

samtechwaterski
04-22-2009, 11:42 PM
Thanks everyone. The plastic on the carpet is from Lowes. I got it in the the painting section. It has sticky on one side. It has worked really well so far. The instruction say to not leave it for more than 30days but I dont think it really matter cause the boat is climate controlled and inside.

(Motor is going in the boat Sunday)

denverd1
04-23-2009, 11:52 AM
03 35th. I found the 351 heads flow a LOT better with a little port work. Did similar improvements to my 351 engine and the machine shop got the exhaust moving 180 cfm on the bench. Seems like you would have to dump some serious coin into a 351 before you needed bigger valves. 427 engines had 1.90/1.60 valves IIRC so still not a lot of difference

03 35th Anniversary
04-23-2009, 11:55 AM
03 35th. I found the 351 heads flow a LOT better with a little port work. Did similar improvements to my 351 engine and the machine shop got the exhaust moving 180 cfm on the bench. Seems like you would have to dump some serious coin into a 351 before you needed bigger valves. 427 engines had 1.90/1.60 valves IIRC so still not a lot of difference

It all depends on what you want out of it.


$85.00 a head is what I am paying. So hp is cheap!!!

denverd1
04-23-2009, 12:05 PM
So hp is cheap!!!

Not sure I'd agree with that! What size valves?

03 35th Anniversary
04-23-2009, 01:02 PM
Not sure I'd agree with that! What size valves?

I see your from TX. Do you know of a place that can do it cheaper???



1.94...... 2.02 wouldn't fit.

I forget the ext. side...

FI skier
04-23-2009, 01:12 PM
Their is only one thing that can BEAT cubic inches. And that is CUBIC DOLLARS!:D

03 35th Anniversary
04-23-2009, 01:42 PM
Their is only one thing that can BEAT cubic inches. And that is CUBIC DOLLARS!:D

My dad used to tell me I could only go as fast as my wallet.

denverd1
04-23-2009, 02:23 PM
03, I wasn't saying the valve job was bad at 85, in fact, that's nothing to get bigger valves IMO. But, as the sayings go, HP ain't cheap! my favorite: "How fast do you want to spend?"

I'm curious what else you've done to your engine. Also curious what your heads flow with bigger valves. I didn't mess with my valves (other than a valve job) and spent some cash on extra port work. I didn't feel like the engine would benefit from it, but at 170, why not.

03 35th Anniversary
04-23-2009, 02:47 PM
03, I wasn't saying the valve job was bad at 85, in fact, that's nothing to get bigger valves IMO. But, as the sayings go, HP ain't cheap! my favorite: "How fast do you want to spend?"

I'm curious what else you've done to your engine. Also curious what your heads flow with bigger valves. I didn't mess with my valves (other than a valve job) and spent some cash on extra port work. I didn't feel like the engine would benefit from it, but at 170, why not.

Every Hot Rod Engine builder will tell you the samething.... It doesn't matter what you do or how much you spend. You will not really get anywhere unless everything is flowing through those valves. Cause all you turn out doing is trying to pour everything through a funnel really fast. (So to Speak)

If you don't do anything with the valves and runners, it doesn't matter how high your comp. is, how big a lift your cam is or how big the carb is. If the valve aren't big enough to handle it.... Your pissing money away.

BrandonKTM
04-23-2009, 03:16 PM
The instruction say to not leave it for more than 30days but I dont think it really matter cause the boat is climate controlled and inside.
You are better off following the instructions on this one. The reasons are the glues will start to stay on the carpet and not peel off with the plastic, and no one needs to tell what happens if the glue stays on the carpet.... Trust them on this one as I have seen the results in some condos we built where it was left on too long. Frankly I would not leave it on even the 30 days.

CantRepeat
04-23-2009, 03:22 PM
We need a youtube of the motor running once installed.

But, I gotta say I hate you now! All I can think about is going through my motor now!! grrrr

denverd1
04-23-2009, 03:56 PM
Oh don't get me wrong, the heads got worked over real well. Thats how we ended up at 180 cfm.

BTW stock exh is about 115'ish...

joniron1
04-25-2009, 10:17 AM
I'm thinking of a simular project on my 89 prostar 190 soon. I was wondering what cam you went with and if you are using the stock carb?

samtechwaterski
04-25-2009, 12:51 PM
Joniron, This is the camshaft I decided to go with.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-35-216-3

I consulted my local racing shop and multiple people. It seems like it is going to work well.

As far as the carb goes I am running a Holley 4150 600cfm
http://holley.com/0-80559.asp

Everyone think that carb will be ok?

Sam

CantRepeat
04-25-2009, 01:43 PM
Joniron, This is the camshaft I decided to go with.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-35-216-3

I consulted my local racing shop and multiple people. It seems like it is going to work well.

As far as the carb goes I am running a Holley 4150 600cfm
http://holley.com/0-80559.asp

Everyone think that carb will be ok?

Sam

I'm sure you'll need to jet it.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-25-2009, 01:58 PM
Get that carb dialed in and you should be just fine. You could move up to a 700 or 750, but you might not feel any gain unless you are planning a lot of w.o.t. running.

samtechwaterski
04-25-2009, 04:17 PM
This carb was on the boat when I bought it. The previous owner just put it on. How the the mechanical double pumpers work? How do I make sure they are working?

I am planning on just running it as is for the break in and go from there. I have some guys from the local engine shop who are going to be there with me for the first start. That should help

Sam

thatsmrmastercraft
04-25-2009, 11:52 PM
You are looking at two different functions on this carb vs. the stock carb. When you hit the throttle with the stock carb, the accelerator pump squirts fuel into only the primary half of the carb. On a double pumper, the accelerator pumps squirts fuel into both the primary and the secondary sides.

With the stock vacuum secondary carb, the secondary side of the carb will not open until you are approaching wide open throttle and the vacuum has gotten down to the level where the secondary spring opens the secondary throttle blades. On your mechanical secondary carb, the secondary side opens mechanically regardless of the vacuum level.

This is a simplified version of how this works. Tuning this carb is a little more involved than the stock carb. There is certainly more performance potential in your carb if it is properly tuned, but also more potential for stumbling and hesitation if not set up just right.

To check for function, just work the throttle by hand (with the flame arrestor removed) to see the accelerator pumps squirting gas into the throttle bores. When you open the throttle to WOT you can look down the throttle bore to see the throttle plates open up.

barefoot
04-26-2009, 10:12 AM
With the stock vacuum secondary carb, the secondary side of the carb will not open until you are approaching wide open throttle...





The secondary's seems to open around 34mph. That's when you really burn though gas ;) What am I talking about...I'm usually around 40mph so it really doesn't matter anyways...

samtechwaterski
04-26-2009, 06:58 PM
Thanks for the help on the carb everyone.. New question

I was going to bolt the bell housing and tranny to the motor today and ran into a problem. How do i remove the guide studs that are mounted into the block? Here is a picture. I have two studs on the right side of the motor. One in the bell housing and one in the block. That obviously doesnt work. Looks like the machine shop might of put on in the block thinking I had lost one ect.

Heres a picture. The stud is on the left side of this picture.

dummy
04-26-2009, 07:20 PM
It's pretty redneck, but I've always just used a pair of Vise Grips. Give 'em a twist and pretty soon you'll be able to work them out. The Vise Grips will knurl the alignment dowels a bit. You can hit them with an abrasive wheel to smooth them out if you want, but what I usually do is install them back into the motor with the knurled end facing in. Gives them a bit more grip that way.

03 35th Anniversary
04-26-2009, 08:17 PM
It's pretty redneck, but I've always just used a pair of Vise Grips. Give 'em a twist and pretty soon you'll be able to work them out. The Vise Grips will knurl the alignment dowels a bit. You can hit them with an abrasive wheel to smooth them out if you want, but what I usually do is install them back into the motor with the knurled end facing in. Gives them a bit more grip that way.

X2

Thats what I normally do....

CantRepeat
04-27-2009, 06:12 AM
You are looking at two different functions on this carb vs. the stock carb. When you hit the throttle with the stock carb, the accelerator pump squirts fuel into only the primary half of the carb. On a double pumper, the accelerator pumps squirts fuel into both the primary and the secondary sides.



Holley also makes little cam lobes to change when the secondary accelerator pump will squirt. There is also a springed bolt at the end of the arm that you can adjust as well. You can adjust it to come on earlier or later in the throttle travel.

The secondary vacuum pump can be changed so you can adjust when the secondary will come on as well.

samtechwaterski
04-27-2009, 01:19 PM
Ok well I am getting really close to dropping this baby back in. I ran into a few problems with the motor mounts. All of the motor and tranny mounts were frozen. These obviously needed to be broken apart so that I can align the motor to the driveshaft. These were very hard to break apart. I had to take them to a friends machine shop. It took a incredibly powerful impact and lots of solvent/lubricant. It took us over 2 hours. For those of you doing this in the future, just use lots of solvent put the parts in a vice and work them back and forth.

Once the pieces were broken apart, we media blasted everything, and used a dye and tap on all threads. This part is vital. Without the dye and tap these pieces would never of gone back together. I reassembled with new washers bolts and used anti-sieze on the threads. Here are a few before and after pictures.

(fyi I got the block stud out from my previous post) I used a punch.

Sam

timz06
04-30-2009, 05:45 PM
I have the same motor in my boat--

What are the specs on the cam that you went with ? Duration / lift? I have done a lot of work on auto engines, but never on boats, so I don't know what kind of torque curve a boat would like. I would assume lot's of low end torque to pull up skiers, high end power wouldn't be very important.

My boat seems to top out at 5k rpm which is in the high 40 mph range. I guess that it just doesn't have enough power to push past that point?

Tim