View Full Version : DSLR camera setup
04-10-2009, 09:28 PM
OK with all the talk about CSM coming up in a couple weeks and the weather getting warmer I want to be sure to get some good action shots!
I have the Canon Rebel XSi and have the 18-55mm IS lens, 75-300mm lens and the 50mm lens.
What settings do you guys use to get good action shots of skiers running the course and wakeboarding? Lets hear how we can get the best pics we can.
04-10-2009, 09:56 PM
I personally haven't had the nerve to take my camera out on the water just yet but I've been shooting the Coca-Cola 600 Cup race at Charlotte at night and go full manual but due to night time the settings would be all off. IMHO settings are all going to depend on a lot of factors such as speed being ran sunny or overcast day and which lens you'll be using. The 18-55mm and the 75-300mm are probably the same F-stop factors of 3.5/4-5.6 (the 3.5 being the wide angle and the 4 being the zoom) if you'd like some help I'd be more than willing to help. I just upgraded to the 50D and not sure I can stomach having that thing out on the water.
Lets hear how we can get the best pics we can.
04-10-2009, 10:16 PM
I got the camera to get some good action shots so I will have it with me.
04-10-2009, 10:44 PM
one thing I forgot to mention is a polarizer filter will also help quite a bit with glare from the water
04-10-2009, 10:48 PM
I got thre filters.. I think one of them is polarized.. I will check before we head out.
04-10-2009, 10:58 PM
Set your camera to aperture - priority mode and set the aperture down to close to the bottom. So, if you lens is a f/2.8, I would set it at f/2.8 or f/4. If it is a f/4 lens, then no higher than f/5.6. That should give you a high shutter speed to freeze the action and will reduce your depth of field so that the subject is what is in focus.
Also, if possible, make sure your camera is set to continuously focus on the subject vs. focus and hold. Makes a big difference for shots on moving subjects. Good luck!
04-11-2009, 03:43 AM
I don't know if you have them but if your lenses are IS (I think that's canon's version of Nikon's VR) then that will help and continuous auto focus or manual if you want a pic at a specific point (turn buoy).
If you're wanting to freeze all motion, water, skier etc then get the lens wiiiide open (aperture priority), shoot at 200 or 400 ISO - you still shouldn't get any noise at this speed and aim to get your shutter speed super high. A polarizing filter will help since it will reduce the glare on the sensor creating underexposed images if you're shooting with evaluative metering. I'd be tempted to switch to center weighted metering too.
If you want to get all artistic though, with some motion blur of water or perhaps skiier then it's a different kettle of fish and will be heavily based upon trial and error depending on the subject, your viewpoint and the lighting conditions. If you can shoot in RAW then this will give you a little room for error too in post-production.
At the end of the day, it's digital - experiment and shoot lots!!!
Speaking of which... if anyone wants pictures taken in NC - give me a shout - I need some motivation to break out my cameras which spend far too long in the cupboard!