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mpabreo
03-31-2009, 09:30 AM
Well guys, as some of you know, I'm anxiously awaiting my new x-45. Just sold my bowrider yesterday, so now its time to prep for the incoming MC. My boat lift is setup for a standard I/O engine and will require modification to accommodate the outdrive of the new boat, i.e. clearance so that the shaft/prop/rudder doesnt hit the I beam that supports the cradle bunks. See pics below, I'm thinking all I need to do is change out the c channels in 8 locations to longer channels to extend the bunks higher, and provide the appropriate clearance. I've got a request in to MC for an arrangement drawing of an x-45, but not sure if they're going to follow up anytime soon. I'd like to get this work done prior to receiving the boat, so I can just drive it right on and not have to have it sit in the driveway for a few days while I make the changes. Anyone have any idea what clearance I will need? How high I should raise the cradle bunks over the I beams?

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/IMG00093a.jpg
http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/P1010026a.JPG
http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/P1010028a.jpg

proporjet
03-31-2009, 09:52 AM
Perhaps someone has a lift that they can measure for you. How about going to the dealership and taking a look at an X45 trailer and making some measurements. Perhaps MC can send you some measurements from an X45 trailer. The trailer details would get you close and guarantee clearances and spacing.

chudson
03-31-2009, 10:20 AM
Just a thought but before you start moving things around on something that may just work anyway, try it first. My hoist was much like yours and I always knew when to stop to not go to far foward. If anything you could extend the upright beams out further to in front of the boat and fasten a couple of guides like you have on the side only out front as stops. Just my two cents worth. Great looking dock and hoist by the way. I have an 81 S&S by the way. Good Luck!!!

lsupcar
03-31-2009, 03:27 PM
Congratulations on the new boat. I'm sorry I have nothing specific to add in regards to your question about the bunk clearance. One thought I did have when looking at your pictures was if your lift could handle the weight of a loaded X-45? I obviously don't know how much your old boat weighed, or the details of your setup, but I would check everything from the cradle, to the shackels, to the wire cables, to the sheaves and their attachments, to the joists. It would be a shame to have it come crashing down on your new boat. Bill Z

russlars
03-31-2009, 05:04 PM
Well guys, as some of you know, I'm anxiously awaiting my new x-45. Just sold my bowrider yesterday, so now its time to prep for the incoming MC. My boat lift is setup for a standard I/O engine and will require modification to accommodate the outdrive of the new boat, i.e. clearance so that the shaft/prop/rudder doesnt hit the I beam that supports the cradle bunks. See pics below, I'm thinking all I need to do is change out the c channels in 8 locations to longer channels to extend the bunks higher, and provide the appropriate clearance. I've got a request in to MC for an arrangement drawing of an x-45, but not sure if they're going to follow up anytime soon. I'd like to get this work done prior to receiving the boat, so I can just drive it right on and not have to have it sit in the driveway for a few days while I make the changes. Anyone have any idea what clearance I will need? How high I should raise the cradle bunks over the I beams?

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/IMG00093a.jpg
http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/P1010026a.JPG
http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/P1010028a.jpg
Can't help you with your question, but that is a great looking dock and lift. When you get the new MC in there, you definitely need to post some pics here: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=24080
Have fun feathering the nest for the new arrival!:D

mpabreo
03-31-2009, 05:04 PM
Congratulations on the new boat. I'm sorry I have nothing specific to add in regards to your question about the bunk clearance. One thought I did have when looking at your pictures was if your lift could handle the weight of a loaded X-45? I obviously don't know how much your old boat weighed, or the details of your setup, but I would check everything from the cradle, to the shackels, to the wire cables, to the sheaves and their attachments, to the joists. It would be a shame to have it come crashing down on your new boat. Bill Z

Current boat is about the same weight as an x-45, within a couple hundred lbs. Lift is rated for 10k lbs so I'm good.

mpabreo
03-31-2009, 05:05 PM
Can't help you with your question, but that is a great looking dock and lift. When you get the new MC in there, you definitely need to post some pics here: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=24080
Have fun feathering the nest for the new arrival!:D

I'll make sure I do!

justinlkgb
03-31-2009, 06:10 PM
Not sure if this will help, but here is a shot of my lift which is a Hewitt Lift, Cantilever style???
This came to me like this, but I think it is a short piece of 3" or 4" box alum. It has been some time since I have looked, but I could probably get a pic tonight?

Anyway the spacing is really similar to what the trailer is.
By the way, I know how bad the water looks, these pics were part of a green water thread. Hope you get it figured out, that new boat will look very nice under that lift.

ProStar190Fan
04-01-2009, 12:47 AM
how i have my lift set up is that the lift has to be all the way down for the fins to have clearence and the shaft doesn't get too close to the ibeam. you may want to measure how far down your lift goes into the water then how much water your X45 will need to safely get into the lift, make sure to measure where the prop shaft is and if that will come close to the ibeam or not. once the boat is centered then when you raise the lift the boat will act just like your old bowrider. couple things to consider is, does your lake level change a lot? do you let anyone else dock your boat? only downside to what i do is i cannot let someone else dock the boat because they do not know where the bunks are and when and where it is ok to drive. cant post pics until may 2nd or 3rd.

Tom

Hollywood
04-01-2009, 02:37 PM
Looks like you have an extra bolt hole at the bottom of those vertical bunk supports. I'd use the very bottom bolt hole to bump the bunks up. If there isn't a matching lower bellow the current upper bolt hole you are using now, shim between it and the top of the cradle support so it doesn't just fall back down to the height it is at now. Looks like there might be enough clearance for your prop shaft behind the rear cradle.

mpabreo
04-01-2009, 05:31 PM
This is an option I've thought about, but need a drawing to confirm. I dont think I'll gain but an inch or maybe 1.5" from using the bottom bolt hole. Maybe this is enough?

RE: your last comment, the first pic is of the front of the lift, which i could swith around, but then it may extend past the boat house roofing, which of course, is out of the question. The rear of the lift (see second pic) extends about a foot less from the cradle I-beam.

For reference the I-beams are 6" x 4". Here's another photo...

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/zIMG00131.jpg

Hollywood
04-01-2009, 05:56 PM
Well, just not sure you're going to get the height out of those bunks then, does the company make any longer brackets?
Else, might want to put some wood boards on there or another company's bunks. That is a pretty basic setup.

CantRepeat
04-01-2009, 07:53 PM
I was thinking you could call the folks that make that lift and see if they have the legs that run from the bunk to the cross support that are taller that you could just bolt on there.

mpabreo
04-02-2009, 11:20 AM
92Maristar: Problem is I don't know who the lift manufacturer is. I've searched the web, and seems most lifts have L brackets for the bunk/cradle connection whereas I have C channels. They offer different sized (longer L brackets) but I would prefer to stay with the beefier C channel, plus it matches the bunk design. Perhaps I can get some C channels fab'd and hot dip galvanized. Wonder how much that'd run me... .

The easiest solution is what you recommend. Can you guys thow some lift mfg's names so I can check with them? I've checked all on the web and none match this design.

Thanks.

CantRepeat
04-05-2009, 08:10 AM
Did you get this figured out yet?

Can you take some close ups of the C clap part you are looking for?

mpabreo
04-05-2009, 08:43 AM
Did you get this figured out yet?

Can you take some close ups of the C clap part you are looking for?

Haven't figured it out yet, will take some better pics and post in a couple days.

Thanks.

ProStar190Fan
04-05-2009, 08:30 PM
Paging Datdude, he might be able to do the same with what you had me do with my lift. it was the lift that had the 88 ps190 on it, and needed new bunks or whatever the things were. if you still dont remember it was the lift that has a max capacity of 2500 and i have a 2300 pound boat on it.

Tom

CantRepeat
04-05-2009, 08:47 PM
Not sure if this will help, but here is a shot of my lift which is a Hewitt Lift, Cantilever style???
This came to me like this, but I think it is a short piece of 3" or 4" box alum. It has been some time since I have looked, but I could probably get a pic tonight?

Anyway the spacing is really similar to what the trailer is.
By the way, I know how bad the water looks, these pics were part of a green water thread. Hope you get it figured out, that new boat will look very nice under that lift.

That is some really green water!!! Are you on Lake Elsinore?

justinlkgb
04-05-2009, 09:37 PM
That is some really green water!!! Are you on Lake Elsinore?
8p:D No, not that lake, but rather one in southern MN. It gets that way for about 1-3 weeks of the year depending on rain, I'm told it has to do with bottom content+ irrigation and farm runoff...whatever, best lawn fertilizer in the world;)
Lots of waxing and it wipes right off, however if not waxed.....

endl
04-06-2009, 11:38 AM
If I remember the clearance hight is 17-20 inches to be safe. Seems like the back two middle bunks are around 48" center to center. I had to modify my lift and I dont know there is a text book version since there are so many lifts out there. I took my trailer measurements and bought C-channel and cut new sticks for upwrights drilled holes and bolted to the frame. I have a drive on bunk style tank lift and it holds the boat well. I attached the before picture and dont have a after picture of the the lift by itseft but you can see the c-channel brackets bolted to the cross members under the boat.

mpabreo
04-07-2009, 10:07 AM
Did you get this figured out yet?

Can you take some close ups of the C clap part you are looking for?

Here are some close-ups of the c-channels...

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/IMG00116.jpg

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/IMG00117.jpg

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/IMG00118.jpg

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/IMG00119.jpg

mpabreo
04-13-2009, 03:47 PM
Ok guys, taking some risk here, but this morning I had my local steel fabricator fab me some new 3" aluminum C-channels to match this design. Only difference is that they will be 30" long in lieu of 12" like those shown above. I'm GUESSING this will be enough clearance for the X-45 prop. If you think about it thats 18" of additional clearance from the top of the bunks. Current clearance is 7.25" so that puts me at about 25" clearance.

Can any of you that have an x-45 and some time, take a second and pull a tape on your trailer/hull and see if this is going to work for me? Pretty please....

I also do not know how far the bunks should be apart. I was going to adjust when I got the trailer in, and put them where the inner bunks on the trailer are. If someone can advise a measurement on this also, I'd really appreciate it. Currently for my old boat, they are at 27" inside edge to inside edge.

CantRepeat
04-13-2009, 03:52 PM
Well I believe you would want at least one set of the bunks right under the stringers. Also on the new set of uprights did you drill a hole just like in the old uprights? It looks like the bolt that pulls them together also rest on the cross support.


Are the old uprights aluminum or steel? If they were steel, please don't use aluminum in the new ones. I think you would run a risk of them bending and damaging your boat. Even if they were aluminum I would suggest galvanized steel at a minimum thickness of 3/16 in channel form. The brackets that hold my boat on the trailer are 1/4 thick. I know it's for moving trailer but I wouldn't take the chance on your new boat.

mpabreo
04-13-2009, 04:44 PM
Yes, I've worked out the bolt hole requirements. Brushed up on my 3D cad skills from years ago when I actually used to practice engineering and generated a drawing. The old channels were aluminum, pretty thick, am going back with the same thickness.

JohnE
04-13-2009, 06:05 PM
No stringers in the new boats, FWIW. Except for the 190/ 197's and even they don't look like a traditional stringer.

CantRepeat
04-13-2009, 06:27 PM
No stringers in the new boats, FWIW. Except for the 190/ 197's and even they don't look like a traditional stringer.


I didn't know that. Then for sure ask the dealer where the boat should be supported by the lift bunks.

mpabreo
04-23-2009, 12:33 PM
Below is a pic of the boat on the lift for the first time yesterday. You notice the new channels, and you can see the old ones under the lift controls. My safety factor was a bit high which is why the channels are so long. I'm probably going to trim about 6-8 inches off them and redrill as currently I have about 14" more clearance than I need.

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/IMG00011on%20lift.jpg

Bilge Water
04-23-2009, 12:58 PM
That looks good. I like the work beverage in the forground:D

I am having a lift cradle similar to this fabricated for my PS209. The ice is just breaking up on the lake now so we plan to installit over M-Day.

CantRepeat
04-23-2009, 01:23 PM
Below is a pic of the boat on the lift for the first time yesterday. You notice the new channels, and you can see the old ones under the lift controls. My safety factor was a bit high which is why the channels are so long. I'm probably going to trim about 6-8 inches off them and redrill as currently I have about 14" more clearance than I need.

http://members.cox.net/dpabreo/Michael/IMG00011on%20lift.jpg


Awesome job on your fab work. Can you post a photo of how much clearance you ended with? And mind if I snag a beer from that cooler? :D

mpabreo
04-23-2009, 02:07 PM
I'll try to get a few pics of the clearance over the weekend. But like I mentioned above, Its got 14" or so more than I need, so I'll be shortening the C-channels in a few weeks.

Barritia
04-23-2009, 09:52 PM
What size bolt are you guys using on the upright struts. I am using 5/8th's as they are the biggest my drill can hande and each one has a 1250 shear force rateing. So i should be good upto about 5000lb combined without snapping or shearing the bolts. Just hopeing that i went heavy duty enough for my 2008 X30.

mpabreo
04-23-2009, 10:25 PM
Mine are 5/8" also, my lift was designed for 10k lbs, so I'm sure you will be fine.

Barritia
04-23-2009, 10:30 PM
Mine are 5/8" also, my lift was designed for 10k lbs, so I'm sure you will be fine.

Cool thats good to hear mpabreo. The boat broke our dock twice last year and it has needed beefing up a lot. New cross members between the triple headers, New pully system and now the lift frame. It's never ending. I was trying to deciede on what height to do the uprights also. Looks like i may have got them just right from the amount of gap you have.

mpabreo
04-23-2009, 11:02 PM
From my calcs, the x-45 requires 18" clearance from the surface of the bunks. Anything more than that and you'll be kosher.