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brucemac
03-14-2009, 10:41 PM
I got my stereo install pretty much all done today. I'm really happy with it.

I added a Wet Sounds Syn 6, a pair of Pro 80's and their WS420.

I'm running 600W to a 10in Image Dynamics IDQv3 D2
200W to each of the Pro 80's and then 100W to each of my Clarion inboats (replacing in a couple weeks with Polk MM6501's). So, 1400W RMS right now.

I still have a little bit of clean up and wire wrap to do, but I called it a day. I must have crawled in and out of that storage compartment a 100 times.

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1877/dsc5494i.jpg

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1214/dsc5497.jpg

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/2526/dsc5502.jpg

Big Dogg
03-15-2009, 02:49 AM
Nice Job on the install!

russlars
03-15-2009, 03:01 AM
Another nice job on the install brucemac! You're getting pretty handy with this stuff. Is that an I-pod hook up in your cup holder? Is that going to take out quite a bit of legroom for the driver?
Great work.:smile:

brucemac
03-15-2009, 11:22 AM
thanks. yeah, ipod directly into 420 with charging. lost a little legroom, but the pic is a little deceiving because of the angle of that walk-thru piece. i'm 6ft and have plenty of room. that sub was installed by a shop last year, but i re-amped it. it's ported 1.25 cubic feet, so fairly large.

BriEOD
03-15-2009, 11:24 AM
Bruce, I'd love a more detailed explanation of your box under the helm, to include dimensions. I'm inclined to do something there.

brucemac
03-15-2009, 11:48 AM
brian, i had the sub installed last year by a local shop along with a couple amps. what you see there is actually somewhat of a false wall. more specifically it's a false "L". it's carpeted and actually attaches to the sub box. they built the box to manufacturer's recommendation using 3/4in material and then fiberglass resin coated it. it's 1.25 cubic foot net and has a 13in long flared 3in port. i believe the total box is about 1.41 cubic foot gross. they moved my stargazer over to the starboard wall, i believe left the ecm and fuse panel alone then screwed the box down to the floor with l-brackets. then they measured and cut a piece to fit over it and contour to the starboard wall. glassed it, carpeted it and attached with speaker grill, port grill cloth and heater vent. only thing i wish is that i had matching carpet. it's close, but not exact. the sub by the way sounds terrific. i listen to all kinds of music and it has not disappointed yet. i of course will have to remove it if/when my heater core fails, but 4 screws on the false wall, two lag screws on the box brackets and it's out. fwiw, i used to be a fan of sealed boxes due to size, but you just get so much bang for your buck with a ported box and can get a lot more output from a ported enclosure versus sealed with same amp if done correctly. hope this helps.

BriEOD
03-15-2009, 12:32 PM
Bruce,

Thx for the summation. I thought maybe you did it yourself? Any thought to adding an extra cockpit speaker on that facia?

How do you like your 420? Do you think it was worth the $349? How did you mount it under the dash?

Did you add a second battery? If so, did you use Diesel's method with the BW relay, or some other means?

I've got some work to do on mine. I picked up an additional set of tower speakers (Kickers) to compliment my MB Quartz. Plus, I have the 4 clarion cockpit speakers, which I'd like to eventually replace, and a marine sub. Currently, I have a decent Clarion marine amp running my tower speakers and sub and a precision power amp running my cockpit speakers. I think I'm going to pick up a 5 channel kicker amp to run my tower speakers and sub, and shift the clarion amp to run my cockpit speakers. Of course, I need some method (420 or the RCA fader) to prevent blowing out the folks in the boat when cranking the tower. Additionally, I need to pull more wire for my tower speakers. Currently, I just have it wired for 2 speakers. I'm going to buy some wire with 2 pairs in the sheathing and pull it back through using the current wire. Lastly, I need to add a battery and some type of relay, isolator, etc.

brucemac
03-15-2009, 01:46 PM
brian, with the help of a friend, we ripped everything out on the port side and started over. i replaced my sub amp with the syn6 6-channel for my sub and tower speakers. he helped me wire everything and test fit the amps and wire disti. i did the rest over the course of the last couple weeks when i could find the time.

speaker on facia? you mean the sub face/side? no room and i'm not incined to cut my walk-thru if that's where you mean. inboats sound great as is with 100W a piece and will i'm sure sound even better when i get those MM6501's. 4 interiors are plenty for my boat.

i added a second battery last year. i had the yandina C100 on my last boat and it worked great. this time around however i went with the Surepower 1314 battery seperator. it works great. it's a voltage sensing seperator, but doesn't have any voltage drops found with some of the other simple solenoid design isolators. it will combine and seperate and super easy to install. it has optional aux start which is a battery combined surge for starting should your start battery be low. also has a terminal for dummy light to see when this action is being performed. i ditched the manual battery switch too. no need for it. the 1314 will combine batteries to aid in starting IF the start bat is below 11.5 (i think that's what it is) and only IF the aux battery is above 11. it seperates bats when start is below 11.8 and combines when above and/or under charge.

http://www.surepower.com/pdf/separatorinterconnect.pdf

i really like the WS420. yes i think it's worth it for those with tower speakers--especially those with 4 tower speakers, or those with HLCD tower speakers like the Wetsounds, NVS, etc. having two-zone eq functionality is really nice too as well as the obvious fade control from inboats to towers. you could certainly do it for less. the clarion EQS746 is online for like $60. doesn't give you two zone eq, but does give you sub control with tower speakers only (WS420 sub is tied to inboats although it has freq/gain control). you could also use the pac audio LC1's or Peripheral PRC1's, for fade control, but you'd end up running at least one or two pair of RCA's around the bow anyway, so why not just go for it. oh and the kids like the mic. :) only other thing i'd say about the 420 is that it's imperative to ground everything to the same common ground. you can't tie the 420 ground into anything in your dash, you need to run it around and tie into all the other grounds for amps, hu, relay, etc. if you don't, you could end up with some noise.

oh and if you're replacing your current wire with 4-conductor instead of adding, that shouldn't be too bad at all. tie it up and pull the new stuff through. getting down into my compartment without removing the tower was a bugger and i only ran 2 pair of 14 gauge. the tower was gravy. good luck and post up when you get done and let us know how it goes! looking forward to seeing sodar's install, i know he's getting ready to do his.

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 09:45 PM
Bruce,

Thx for the reply.

Sorry about the delayed response I've been on the road.

I appreciate your comments on all of that. All of your suggestions sound great. That said, I'm not looking to break the bank. I've already got the second set of tower speakers and the Kicker amp. I need to purchase batterie(s) (unfortunately, I have two buy two to ensure they are equal--what batteries are you running?), some type of fader, an isolator and speaker wire. It all adds up.

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 09:59 PM
Bruce,

How and with what did you mount the 420 under the dash? Looks very clean.

brucemac
03-19-2009, 10:15 PM
Hey no worries Brieod. I'm currently running just two Optima Blue Top D34M's. They're not the cheapest, and not necessarily the best, but they're sealed and I've had good luck with them in the past. Lot's of other options out there and plenty of varied opinions. I've heard really good thing about the Deka line and they're more reasonable than the Optima's.

On the mount, I just used the L-brackets that came with it and then got creative with a second set of L-brackets to adapt to the small mounting area under the steering wheel on the bottom of the dash panel. It should hold good. All the RCA's coming out the back are zip tied up under the dash and help support the rear of the unit as well. I really wanted to do something cool like Prostar205's mounting bracket and even got an offer from Maristar210 for some assistance with it, but because my dash is so low and because anything I did would have been so small, I'm going to stick with it as is for now. If I run into issues with it coming loose I'll revisit it.

Yeah it all adds up fast for sure, but it sounds like you're on your way! Post up some pics when you get her done. Take care.

brucemac
03-19-2009, 10:17 PM
oh and I've got 4 of these puppies coming tomorrow and am installing them this weekend :)

can't wait!

http://www.polkaudio.com/images/site/mm/mm6501.jpg

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 10:19 PM
Dude you're killing me!!

My wife just walked by and shook her head.:D

brucemac
03-19-2009, 10:24 PM
my wife's not home yet. :D

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 10:25 PM
BTW, I forgot to mention I'm not being cheap. I bought the boat last year and while the thing was in great shape the interior is shi)t. Unfortunately, I've talked to Mitch and some others and they are having the same issues. So, I have some new skins coming to replace about 7 bad pieces. Add the interior with the stereo, well, you get the picture. Last year I went through the trailer.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=22930&page=5

brucemac
03-19-2009, 10:29 PM
oh i definitely hear ya. i've put a ton of money into my boat this last year. just bought it last april.

i'm kicking myself for not buying replacement skins from jim@baws before they went end of life. i just couldn't talk the wife into the $1800 or so it would have cost to have them sitting on the shelf. my interior is in great shape, but i'm out of luck if something happens and will have to hunt them down or visit a good vinyl shop. i've got 3 kids too so something is bound to happen. :)

trailer looks good! i followed that thread. you folk's weather turning yet? we've still got the yuck here, but am planning on de-winterizing in a couple weeks.

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 10:35 PM
I ended up calling Jim Friant, aka "the man." He was formerly employed in the MC interior shop for 10 years+. He does interior on the side now and will do whatever you need.

No, it was in the 40s today. I hope it starts coming up. I've got a ton of work to do. I've got to put my interior back together, complete the stereo upgrade, dewinterize, change boat numbers, wax, etc, etc. That said, it is way better than winterizing!

brucemac
03-19-2009, 10:37 PM
i didn't see any interior pics, just the trailer???

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 10:43 PM
I'm to ashamed to put em' up. It isn't horrible, but where they made the brilliant decision to sew down for effect every 3-4 inches, it is now starting to split. I can't stand it. Consequently, I need replacement pieces for the following: rear trunk wings, back seat base and back, driver seat bucket, observer seat, 2 of the 3 bow seating cushions, and as a result of the previous owner dropping a wakeboard on the engine box I figured I do the engine box so it is perfect.

X-5 Driver
03-19-2009, 10:44 PM
I bought a pair of used Tantrum Punch tower speakers with my boat but I can't find a model number. They have the separate tweeter off to the side. Does anyone have any idea about these types of speakers and what kind of amp I will need? I'm audio ignorant...

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 10:45 PM
Exhibit A:

BriEOD
03-19-2009, 10:46 PM
It doesn't look bad in this shot, but close up it is far worse.

bxroads
03-19-2009, 10:56 PM
brucemac, did you consider the Wetsounds 650's and if so why did you choose the Polk MM6501's.

X-5 Driver
03-19-2009, 11:01 PM
It doesn't look bad in this shot, but close up it is far worse.

My 2001 X-5 looks almost identical in, except for the curved seat in the back. I've got the same things going on with that seat. :mad: Did you get new MC skins or did you have to have them custom made? I guess I can't get replacement MC skins for mine as it is too old.

brucemac
03-19-2009, 11:40 PM
I ended up calling Jim Friant, aka "the man." He was formerly employed in the MC interior shop for 10 years+. He does interior on the side now and will do whatever you need.

BriEOD, you think you could pm Jim's contact info so I can hang on to it? That would be great. Thank you.

I bought a pair of used Tantrum Punch tower speakers with my boat but I can't find a model number. They have the separate tweeter off to the side. Does anyone have any idea about these types of speakers and what kind of amp I will need? I'm audio ignorant...

X-5 Driver, like these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Wakeboard-Boat-Tower-Speakers-Rockford-Fosgate-Aluminum_W0QQitemZ170310168672QQcmdZViewItemQQptZL H_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item170310168672&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Really need to find out what drivers are inside the cans so you can match up the amp specs to the recommended RMS ratings for the speakers.

brucemac, did you consider the Wetsounds 650's and if so why did you choose the Polk MM6501's.

bxroads, yeah I struggled with that decision for consistency sake, but decided against the XS-650's for a few reasons. 1. I would have had to cut-out larger holes for the XS-650's. 2. I would have had to probably use a spacer up in the bow because of the deep mounting depth of the mid-bass driver(large magnet). 3. They're coaxials so I'd be left with a lame tweeter off to the side of each of my components. 4. I really like the looks of the new Polk MM6501's and I had the older MOMO's in my last boat and they sounded great and held up really well on the water. Wet Sounds has a component set coming out, but last I heard it isn't going to be announced until later this year or early next. I didn't want to wait. :) They are coming out with a shallow mount version of the XS-650 soon though.

bxroads
03-19-2009, 11:54 PM
They're coaxials so I'd be left with a lame tweeter off to the side of each of my components

I'm confused. I thought coaxial = tweeter over cone (on the grill).

brucemac
03-19-2009, 11:58 PM
I'm confused. I thought coaxial = tweeter over cone (on the grill).

I currently have components, seperates. The XS-650's are coaxials.

The MM6501's are components, same cut-out, etc.

X-5 Driver
03-20-2009, 12:20 AM
brucemac, they look exactly like these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=170310172263

bxroads
03-20-2009, 12:29 AM
I currently have components, seperates. The XS-650's are coaxials.

The MM6501's are components, same cut-out, etc.


Roger that.

brucemac
03-20-2009, 12:51 AM
brucemac, they look exactly like these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=170310172263

So they're Rockford Fosgate component speakers then. I highly doubt anybody's running 300W to each of those like that ad claims they're capable of. That's marketing flub.

Everything I see spec wise online for all the Rockford Fosgate Punch series components says 60W RMS or 120W Peak. Which means if you had an amplifer that put out some where in the neighborhood of 60W-100W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms (just for those speakers) you'd be set.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_categories.asp?cat_id=3

hope this helps a little

X-5 Driver
03-20-2009, 01:07 AM
So they're Rockford Fosgate component speakers then. I highly doubt anybody's running 300W to each of those like that ad claims they're capable of. That's marketing flub.

Everything I see spec wise online for all the Rockford Fosgate Punch series components says 60W RMS or 120W Peak. Which means if you had an amplifer that put out some where in the neighborhood of 60W-100W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms (just for those speakers) you'd be set.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_categories.asp?cat_id=3

hope this helps a little

It does help, thanks!

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 08:11 PM
Bruce,

How much wire do you think I need to rewire my tower with 14/4? I was think 30-40 feet at least? Thoughts?

brucemac
03-20-2009, 08:36 PM
not sure BriEOD. i got thrifty and bought a 100ft roll of 14 gauge from monoprice.com

it's not the best wire, but it's hidden by wire wrap. i gave the left over to my buddy or i'd send it to you. i probably only used about 50ft i think, but that's a guess.

for the record some sort of pvc/plastic jacketed wire would have been way easier to work with. it wasn't so hard working it through the tower, but getting it into the compartment was a bear. there's no way i could have gotten 4 pair of this stuff through the current hole. they have the UL listed in-wall jacketed stuff too btw.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2791&seq=1&format=2

by the way, don't let the price or the site fool you. monoprice is the real deal. these guys look hoky, but i can tell you the quality is great, even for home theater wiring. i did most of my low voltage in my house along with my basement remodel at my last house using these guys and saved a ton of money without sacrificing quality. they have great cables.

opening up my new polks! :D

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 08:38 PM
I was looking at this: http://www.summitsource.com/product_info.php?ref=1&products_id=8028

I just don't want to buy a ton more than I need. How much would you buy?

brucemac
03-20-2009, 08:40 PM
begin editorial

i may get slapped for this, but imo i wouldn't buy that stuff. WAY over priced imo.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=4039&seq=1&format=2

brucemac
03-20-2009, 08:42 PM
you could even go down to 16 gauge and cut it in half. what's total RMS to the towers and what's the amp?

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf

most who wire or re-wire use 14 or 12 gauge, but i'm pretty sure factory MC uses 16.

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 08:44 PM
Kicker ZX700.5

# RMS Power Rating:

* 4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 08:46 PM
BTW, Bruce & X-5 here is the guy you want for your interior needs:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=8439

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 08:48 PM
begin editorial

i may get slapped for this, but imo i wouldn't buy that stuff. WAY over priced imo.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=4039&seq=1&format=2

Wow, no kidding--way over priced!

brucemac
03-20-2009, 08:49 PM
so in that link assume 25ft per channel at 70W @ 4 ohms with 16 gauge and your dB loss is less than half of 1 dB. less than 1 dB is inaudible.

we need jimn, but i'm pretty sure that unless you plan on putting some sort of larger hlcd tower speaker up there and re-amping with more than ~150-200W per channel that you'd be fine with 16 gauge.

brucemac
03-20-2009, 08:53 PM
what's the amp see for an ohm load on the sub? 4-ohm, 2ohm or 1ohm?

same scenario, 250W @ 2 ohm, 25 ft is less than .83 dB loss.

if it's 1ohm it goes up to 1.83, but it may not be 25ft either for the sub.

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 08:57 PM
# RMS Power Rating:

* 4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
* 2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
* 4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms)

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 09:00 PM
Crummy Clarion marine sub is 4 ohm.

brucemac
03-20-2009, 09:02 PM
you may want to double check with someone smart like JIMN but i'm wondering if you really need 14 gauge. 16 may be fine and it's certainly less.

:D

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3135/dsc5531.jpg
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3029/dsc5532n.jpg

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 09:03 PM
I agree...

Beautiful...the speakers and the granite.:cool:

brucemac
03-20-2009, 09:05 PM
thanks and it's the wife's night to read books! YAY! :D

BriEOD
03-20-2009, 09:11 PM
thanks and it's the wife's night to read books! YAY! :D

Off to the neighborhood party.

brucemac
03-21-2009, 07:23 PM
so i'm testing fitting the new polks in the bow and wondering what do you guys think? should i remove and paint the tweeter surface mount cups black or leave them as is? it actually doesn't look too shabby as is. i could use the polk surface cups, but then i'd have to patch a small screw hole that would be left visible from the old one. the polk tweeters fit nicely into the clarion cups, but i'll have to secure them on the back with something just so they don't pop out. let me know what you think. this is just a test fit by the way, i'll make sure it's all level before i screw it down. :)
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3080/dsc5535.jpg

CantRepeat
03-21-2009, 08:09 PM
I think that looks very clean as is. If you do go black it should be a mat finish liek the speaker housing. Anything different is gonna look kind of cheesy.

Nice system you have rolling there!

brucemac
03-21-2009, 08:21 PM
hey thanks. yeah, if i thought for sure i could match the sheen i'd probably paint. definitely wouldn't want to screw it up though, or i'd be hosed. and you're right there is a big risk of it looking bad if it doesn't match. i wonder if an auto body repair place could do it for me. the other thing i wonder is, would it draw your eyes straight to it with a big chunk of black sitting there worse than the white?

CantRepeat
03-21-2009, 08:28 PM
hey thanks. yeah, if i thought for sure i could match the sheen i'd probably paint. definitely wouldn't want to screw it up though, or i'd be hosed. and you're right there is a big risk of it looking bad if it doesn't match. i wonder if an auto body repair place could do it for me. the other thing i wonder is, would it draw your eyes straight to it with a big chunk of black sitting there worse than the white?

I think if you are going to try and match the color I would try to match the off white that is your boat. The tweeter has it's own thing going, making the mount blend in to the rest of the panel would be a very nice tough and I think that's the way to go.


edit

I always like a more factory look to my upgrades. That being said, does anyone have an MC that has factory tweeters in it? I'm guessing they are molded into the glass work. If that is the case then making the housing look as clost to the glass in your boat would be nice!

/edit

brucemac
03-21-2009, 08:35 PM
92, that white cup in the picture is the factory clarion tweeter cup. i lucked out and the polk fits in it almost perfectly. it matches the gel good, definitely not going to try and paint it white, but am still on the fence about painting it black.

i hear ya on the stock oem upgrades. i would have gone with the JL's but the 7.7's wont fit in my bow and the old JL 6.5's don't look or sound much better than the clarions i pulled out.

BriEOD
03-22-2009, 09:47 AM
Leave it as is.

brucemac
03-22-2009, 08:23 PM
got all my polk MM6501 components installed. they sound great! way more mid and mis-bass then the old clarions and the highs sound awesome. really happy with them.
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/3305/dsc5538.jpg

Scott
03-25-2009, 08:39 PM
Are the polks that much better than the clarion componets?? How bout the water issue, At times, the bow of my 197 takes on alot of water!!!

brucemac
03-25-2009, 08:59 PM
yes, they are quite a bit better imo. they're rated at 125W rms 200W peak a piece though (not sure what that breaks out to after their passive crossover to the mid-bass and the tweeter though), so they're a little power hungry. i'm currently feeding them 100W a piece and they sound great. i do plan on eventually replacing the current amp driving them to a 4-channel rated at 125W RMS though. they're marine rated and the coaxial version is being used in the new nautiques. they the have carbon composite baskets and woven glass cones on the mid-bass drivers. so they're definitely more water resistant as the clarions. way more mid and mid-bass than the clarions and they will go significantly louder without distortion. highs are a little brighter, but the crossover has a -3dB and 0dB setting for the tweeter. i had their momo series in my last boat and they sounded great and held up well. the MM series is a little more efficient than the momos. here's the spec page:

http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/speakers-systems/mm6501/

brucemac
03-25-2009, 09:11 PM
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1470/dsc5540.jpg

BriEOD
03-25-2009, 09:50 PM
Looks great Mac!

My Kicker amp came today. Man, that thing is heavy. I can't wait to get it cranking!

TX.X-30 fan
03-25-2009, 10:19 PM
Looks great Mac!

My Kicker amp came today. Man, that thing is heavy. I can't wait to get it cranking!





Diesel will be proud. :D

Scott
03-26-2009, 08:06 PM
Theres no doubt they look the part and then some. Just curious(you may have already explained) why didnt you use the tweeters up front?? My clarions are in the seats in the front.. I am very concerned about the install, the back, i'm not sure about.. where did you get them from? thnx for the input.. I'm always upgrading( I think its a curse!!)

BriEOD
03-26-2009, 09:41 PM
Diesel will be proud. :D

Hey, I got a sweet deal. Can't complain!

brucemac
03-26-2009, 10:42 PM
Theres no doubt they look the part and then some. Just curious(you may have already explained) why didnt you use the tweeters up front?? My clarions are in the seats in the front.. I am very concerned about the install, the back, i'm not sure about.. where did you get them from? thnx for the input.. I'm always upgrading( I think its a curse!!)

Scott, I did use the tweeters up front. Sorry this pics are so bad, pretty poor lighting in my garage. They fit in the older clarion surface mount cups.

Scott
03-27-2009, 09:29 AM
So they fit the clarion mounts, thats cool.. where did you get them from?

brucemac
03-27-2009, 02:30 PM
i bought them off ebay through an online store. the price was enough to forgo the warranty and they had free shipping. i know sonicelectronix has them pretty reasonable as well and i think crutchfield has a buy 1 get one half off or something too. crutchfield price is pretty expensive even with the promo, but you'd get the warranty. i would expect pricing on these to come down this year quite a bit once they start selling through their momo line. i'm not 100% sure, but i've heard that the momo's are reaching end of life and the MM series will be its successor.

Scott
03-27-2009, 03:09 PM
tahnks for the info..:D

brucemac
03-01-2011, 03:35 AM
tahnks for the info..:D

no problem! heh heh

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4740/dsc8167b.jpg

brucemac
03-01-2011, 03:38 AM
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/3303/dsc8171.jpg

brucemac
03-01-2011, 03:41 AM
the arange soada has since been cleaned up!

brucemac
03-01-2011, 03:46 AM
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/981/dsc8173.jpg

l8kebum
03-03-2011, 01:44 PM
anyone know what the eq shown here is (from original post)? i am looking for a good one. marine grade?

brucemac
03-03-2011, 01:46 PM
wetsounds WS420

CantRepeat
03-03-2011, 01:48 PM
anyone know what the eq shown here is (from original post)? i am looking for a good one. marine grade?

Wetsound 420

http://www.wetsounds.com/pages/products/WS-420.html

TOO-TALL
04-10-2013, 07:49 PM
Bring up an old thread.

Did a search on wetsounds EQ mount.This thread popped up.
Lots of good info.


I'm about to dive in and run all new wires,wetsounds speakers,2nd batt.