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View Full Version : Custom Paint job needs to come off


ProStar190Fan
03-02-2009, 09:37 PM
My 1988 prostar has a custom paint job for the boat registration number. my questions is that how to i get it off or is there something i can put over the lettering that will blend in with the rest of the boat (darker red/gray lettering is on the red)? the boat has michigan registration numbers and is now registered in wisconsin. All help is much appreciated.

Tom

I cannot post pics due to the boat being 300 miles away.

scramison
03-02-2009, 09:41 PM
I was wondering the same thing. Maybe a good decal?

ProStar190Fan
03-02-2009, 09:42 PM
I was wondering the same thing. Maybe a good decal?

i have to put the new registration numbers right where the paint is right now.

Tom

cf_koch
03-02-2009, 09:45 PM
Have your new ID number printed on a vinal background that will compliment your boat and cover the old numbers?

TMCNo1
03-02-2009, 09:46 PM
Lacquer thinner should dissolve it with a little work. Back in the day, Easy Off Oven Cleaner did the job easily, but you had to test it first to assure there was no discoloration of the finish and let it set for several minutes after application with a rag. Do not spray directly on the work area to prevent it splattering everywhere you don't want it. Polish out the area you worked on to even out the gloss and prepare the area for the new numbers, then finish it all off with a good coat of wax.

Sodar
03-02-2009, 09:46 PM
Easy-Off Oven Cleaner. Be sure to protect the trailer and give the gelcoat a good waxing after the registration numbers come off.

Jim@BAWS
03-02-2009, 10:06 PM
ACETONE in a well ventilated area

Jim@BAWS

ProStar190Fan
03-02-2009, 10:23 PM
Thanks for the ideas guys, i will let everyone know how it works out memorial day weekend.

Tom

wakeX2wake
03-03-2009, 10:53 AM
ACETONE in a well ventilated area

Jim@BAWS

for more fun... acetone in a not so well ventilated area

BriEOD
03-03-2009, 11:50 AM
for more fun... acetone in a not so well ventilated area

LMAO!!

Make sure you wear some rubber gloves. That stuff will tear up your skin.

Muttley
03-03-2009, 11:56 AM
I'm with Sodar. Oven cleanern then Comet.

JimN
03-03-2009, 11:58 AM
My 1988 prostar has a custom paint job for the boat registration number. my questions is that how to i get it off or is there something i can put over the lettering that will blend in with the rest of the boat (darker red/gray lettering is on the red)? the boat has michigan registration numbers and is now registered in wisconsin. All help is much appreciated.

Tom

I cannot post pics due to the boat being 300 miles away.

If you can contact the person who painted the numbers, find out what kind of paint it is and what will dissolve it. Lacquer thinner is a bit more gentle than acetone and if the numbers get hazy over time but it's not just mineral deposits, it may be lacquer.

ProStar190Fan
03-03-2009, 12:28 PM
for more fun... acetone in a not so well ventilated area

I think i will stick to the great outdoors for this project, i just sent an email out to the past owner so lets hope he remembers.

Tom

TMCNo1
03-03-2009, 02:10 PM
If you can contact the person who painted the numbers, find out what kind of paint it is and what will dissolve it. Lacquer thinner is a bit more gentle than acetone and if the numbers get hazy over time but it's not just mineral deposits, it may be lacquer.

Most all sign painters/pinstripers such as I, use One Shot Lettering Enamel and with a little work, can be dissolved/removed with lacquer thinner. Lettering enamels use a finer ground pigment (better coverage with one coat), are self leveling (little or no brush marks) and cuts a nice clean edge off the brush, requiring less brush strokes. Lacquer based paints dry too quick to be brushed, thinning with retarder make it too transparent and runny and it will ruin a perfectly good $60 lettering brush or $18 Sword striper in a matter of minutes.

As far as the other post about Comet, you got to be freakin' kidding me! Who in their right mind would use Comet on any of todays finishes, just take a Brillo pad to it you want to futch something up!

Monte
03-03-2009, 02:21 PM
I mix comet in my wax before buffing.. Are you saying I shouldn't do that?:rolleyes:

Sodar
03-03-2009, 02:26 PM
I mix comet in my wax before buffing.. Are you saying I shouldn't do that?:rolleyes:

Awesome question. I just used Comet on the Tahoe this weekend to get a few swirl marks out of the paint. I am a little concerned after TMCNo.1's post. :confused:

ProStar190Fan
03-03-2009, 02:37 PM
If i remeber correctly you can really SEE the brush marks, don't know if that helps to determine anything?

Tom

KnoxX2
03-03-2009, 02:39 PM
I know of a few body shops that wash cars in comet before they paint them. They say it makes the paint stick very well!!!!

TMCNo1
03-03-2009, 02:59 PM
Awesome question. I just used Comet on the Tahoe this weekend to get a few swirl marks out of the paint. I am a little concerned after TMCNo.1's post. :confused:

You must have been scrubbing those big ole West Coast whitewalls!:D
45076

Sodar
03-03-2009, 03:04 PM
You must have been scrubbing those big ole West Coast whitewalls!:D

Damn Snappy! Comet on the white walls and Tarnite on the gold wheels. You have taught me well, old man.... you have taught me well!
8p:D8p

TMCNo1
03-03-2009, 03:22 PM
Damn Snappy!
8p:D8p


Haven't heard that is a long time! Your a mess!

Muttley
03-03-2009, 07:01 PM
As far as the other post about Comet, you got to be freakin' kidding me! Who in their right mind would use Comet on any of todays finishes, just take a Brillo pad to it you want to futch something up!

Nope. Not kidding. I wouldn't use it on the whole boat, but it works when you've got a particularly stubburn removal. I should have mentioned, apply GENTLY, and not a Brillo pad, but a Magic Eraser.

No matter what, if that lettering is old enough to have been hand painted, there will be a ghost anyway. You'll have to give it one serious polish after so you don't see it.

If he's scared, he can try it on a small section under the swim grid or on the bottom of the boat.

It's moot anyway. The oven cleaner or laquer thinner should be plenty. I doubt he'd have to go to acetone unless they painted it with marine enamel. Then he's in trouble.

langedp
05-09-2012, 10:03 PM
Reviving this old thread for more ideas/advice. I recently purchased a 94 Prostar with the same issue, painted on registration numbers. I've tried acetone, lacquer thinner, goof off, even tried MEK. The first three do almost nothing. MEK starts to dissolve the paint but really takes some scrubbing. I'm concerned about going with stronger solvents since they may soften the gel coat. I have not tried oven cleaner. The gel coat is red by the way and in very good condition. Suggestions? Resort to rubbing compound and buffer?

AZX9
05-10-2012, 01:00 AM
Acetone and MEK are about the strongest solvents that you can purchase. I doubt you can find a stronger solvent. I don't think the rubbing compound would be quite abrasive enough to sand through. If MEK loosens it, I would put on some chemical gloves and hold a soaked rag on the surface for a minute or so to really let it loosen up the paint. The wet rag solves the issue of evaporation before it can cut into the paint. Not sure how tender gelcoat is but it is cut with Acetone when sprayed. Some times the same solvents used in application / reduction will re-wet the resin. Sometimes it is resistant to the same reducer once it has cured. Acetone is a really strong solvent, it could re-wet the gelcoat with enough soaking. MEK is just under Acetone in solvent strength with a slightly slower evaporation rate.

JohnnyB
05-10-2012, 07:15 AM
Might want to test in a small area and see what it does to the gel coat, but soak a paper towel several layers in thickness with MEK and then put it on the area, cover it in plastic and tape around the edges so it is tight to the glass and air tight....see what some soak time will do to the paint.....I am worried that it may hurt your gel.

Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk

langedp
05-10-2012, 09:51 PM
Thanks for the suggestions. I tried soaking a thick stack of paper towels with MEK and held it against the paint for awhile. No real difference from before except it actually started to dissolve the nitrile gloves!

I decided to go the rubbing compound route. I used some aggressive cut 3M compound using a 3M waffle pad on a rotary buffer. I had both sides clean in 15 minutes.

Hope this helps anyone else with this problem.