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Hunterb
02-11-2009, 01:33 PM
Hi all,

I need to replace the rear main seal on my motor (351 SO in a 1990 PS190). I am trying to decide if I should pull the transmission, damper plate, flywheel and keep the motor in place or if it's simpler to pull the whole motor/transmission as a unit and separate them once out of the boat.


My only real concern about pulling the whole motor is the realigning process when I reinstall it. Has anyone removed their motor by unbolting the angle iron from the boat thereby leaving the alignment untouched? I'm not sure about undoing the big adjusting nuts as they have been painted a few times and will probably be a nuisance. Are there any other options for pulling the motor?

If anyone has any suggestions I'd like to hear them.

Thanks

Bruce

BrianM
02-11-2009, 03:12 PM
I think I would pull the whole thing. I also have a feeling that either way you are going to have to re-align.

JimN
02-11-2009, 03:19 PM
I think I would pull the whole thing. I also have a feeling that either way you are going to have to re-align.

The alignment should be checked periodically anyway, or any time there's any impact to the prop. You can also leave the mounts and remove the bolts from the engine. Those are closer in tolerance than the ones that fasten it to the hull. I have removed transmissions without the motor and as long as you put something in to support the rear of the motor before the transmission comes out, there's less alignment correction needed.

However, since you're doing work on the bottom end of the motor, you should remove the whole thing. It's also a good time to look it over closely, which is harder to do with it in the boat. It would be a good time to "freshen it up" too, if you have been thinking of getting a bit more power.

Hunterb
02-11-2009, 04:07 PM
Thanks guys,

I like the idea of removing the bolts from the engine, thanks Jim. I was thinking about freshening it up a bit while it's out. It's had one weak cylinder (#7), indicated by having less compression than the others, since I got the boat three years ago. It's never been a major issue and I have not bothered to determine if it's a leaking valve or rings. I suspect a valve. I thought while it was out that I might have the heads done. Then I thought if I was going to do that I might as well do the rings and bearings while I was at it. I had a bad experience once with a Triumph TR6 motor when I just did the top end. I'm happy enough with the power the engine produces and don't feel the need to change heads or the intake etc. which is the easiest way to get more poop.

Jim, the main reason I'm pulling the thing apart is to change the rear main seal. Do you have any suggestions or tips for that job?

Bruce

JimN
02-11-2009, 07:39 PM
Thanks guys,

I like the idea of removing the bolts from the engine, thanks Jim. I was thinking about freshening it up a bit while it's out. It's had one weak cylinder (#7), indicated by having less compression than the others, since I got the boat three years ago. It's never been a major issue and I have not bothered to determine if it's a leaking valve or rings. I suspect a valve. I thought while it was out that I might have the heads done. Then I thought if I was going to do that I might as well do the rings and bearings while I was at it. I had a bad experience once with a Triumph TR6 motor when I just did the top end. I'm happy enough with the power the engine produces and don't feel the need to change heads or the intake etc. which is the easiest way to get more poop.

Jim, the main reason I'm pulling the thing apart is to change the rear main seal. Do you have any suggestions or tips for that job?

Bruce

Go to a speed shop and talk to them. They deal with motors that are run in a more similar manner than regular street driving and they may have something that works better for balls out performance. They might be able to do something for your heads, too. Your compression problem could be a gasket, too but if the heads and intake come off, a performance grind should make a difference. It's your call but if I had to pull a motor for a rear main seal, I'd be doing the valves too, but that's just me.

Hunterb
02-12-2009, 02:12 PM
Jim,

I was thinking of doing the valves while it was apart and had thought that it was probably wise to do the rings and bearings at the same time. I did just the top end on my TR6 motor once and ended up taking at apart again shortly after to do the rings and bearings anyway. I'm not familiar with a 'performance grind'. How much of a boost would you expect from something like that? Like I said, I don't feel the need to add the Gt40 heads or a performance intake as the boat pulls my scrawny butt out of the water no problem, but a 'freshening up' would be good.

Bruce

Bruce Carr
02-12-2009, 03:20 PM
HunterB,

I a pretty sure that prior to 1990 (I think it was around 1985), Ford went to a rear main seal which can be removed and replaced WITHOUT removing the pan. You would just have to remove the transmission and flex plate. The seal can be pried out from around the crank shaft and a new one driven into place. Do a Google search on Ford Windsor rear main seal removal and replacement.

Bruce

JimN
02-12-2009, 08:39 PM
Jim,

I was thinking of doing the valves while it was apart and had thought that it was probably wise to do the rings and bearings at the same time. I did just the top end on my TR6 motor once and ended up taking at apart again shortly after to do the rings and bearings anyway. I'm not familiar with a 'performance grind'. How much of a boost would you expect from something like that? Like I said, I don't feel the need to add the Gt40 heads or a performance intake as the boat pulls my scrawny butt out of the water no problem, but a 'freshening up' would be good.

Bruce

Performance grinding just lets it breathe a little better but it's hard to say exactly how much it would add. The GT-40 heads make a lot of difference and they may have different valve grinding, anyway. As far as rings and bearings- talk to the machine shop.