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View Full Version : amps on port side outside wall? how to?


brucemac
02-05-2009, 03:19 PM
anybody here mounted their amps on the outside port wall? if so, how did you secure a "rack" or mounting surface to the outside wall without drilling a hole in your boat? looking for ideas, advice, etc.

doing some upgrades and would really like to move my amps to the outside wall if possible.

thanks!

Sodar
02-05-2009, 03:25 PM
There are a couple ways to do it.

First is to peel the carpet back and install some backing by "gluing" some plastic to the hull side. This will allow you something to screw the amp to.

Second is to build a false wall and mount your amps to the false wall. Then attach your false wall to the hull using the same method as above. This is the cleanest and safest way to do it, plus you can hide all the ugly wiring behind the panel.

Cary K.
02-05-2009, 03:25 PM
I pulled my carpet back, and epoxied the crap out of a piece of marine grade MDF, re-wrapped the carpet, and mounted to that. It is SOLID.

brucemac
02-05-2009, 03:49 PM
i posted a similar question on wakeworld and one guy who owned the same boat as me in a previous life said to be careful because on my boat it's possible for the vent in there to leak if you take on water, dip the bow, etc. he said if the vent isn't secure and sealed that it can let water in there and possibly down into the amps and cause harm. that has me slightly concerned. the vent is right there and the ducting is pretty thin. it has me rethinking it.

the bummer is that on the inside wall, i don't think the backing there is wide enough for the amp i'm installing and that whole surface is not flush. it jogs in an inch or two about a foot and a half back right where the walkway is to the bow and i think they backing they put in there only runs to that little jog. anybody know?

i guess i'll have to tear everything out or close to and pull that carpet back on the inside wall. either that or see if i can somehow seal or ensure that vent is water tight.

Cary K.
02-05-2009, 04:37 PM
I had that same concern about my vent too. It is over top of my amp on the port side ('01 X-Star). I decided it was worth it, as this amp really wouldn't fit many other places.

Can't help much on the width of the inside wall, but to make it "flush" you just use strips instead of the whole board, and build it out until it is flush. May be more layers in places, less in others. Once that is secure, then attach your full board, carpet it, and mount the amp. This is actually what I did since the board that the amp attaches to was so big that it wouldn't set against the port side contours.

craig3972
02-05-2009, 05:19 PM
i posted a similar question on wakeworld and one guy who owned the same boat as me in a previous life said to be careful because on my boat it's possible for the vent in there to leak if you take on water, dip the bow, etc. he said if the vent isn't secure and sealed that it can let water in there and possibly down into the amps and cause harm. that has me slightly concerned. the vent is right there and the ducting is pretty thin. it has me rethinking it.

the bummer is that on the inside wall, i don't think the backing there is wide enough for the amp i'm installing and that whole surface is not flush. it jogs in an inch or two about a foot and a half back right where the walkway is to the bow and i think they backing they put in there only runs to that little jog. anybody know?

i guess i'll have to tear everything out or close to and pull that carpet back on the inside wall. either that or see if i can somehow seal or ensure that vent is water tight.

i had a hole in a vent hose on my old 205v xstar, perfectly centered over the subwoofer enclosure vent hole ... there must have been 1/2" of water in the bottom of the enclosure before i discovered it!

east tx skier
02-05-2009, 05:56 PM
I've seen two ways. The second one is really sweet. But first, what my dealer suggested.

Take that piece of MDF and cut some slots on one side about 1/4 of the way into the board all the way across until you can bend it. Then epoxy it on ther and it wil contour to the hull. I tried this with moderate success before remounting elsewhere. Epoxy puddy works great for this kind of mount.

The cool way I've seen this done ... A guy found these somewhat expensive T pieces that are basically little discs with female bolt/screw receptacles extruding about 2" of of them. He epoxied those to the hull and mounted the board to those using machine screws. The board, carpeted floated about 2" away from the hull so no worries about drilling through.

Here are pictures (http://www.planetnautique.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3333) of that setup.

brucemac
02-05-2009, 08:20 PM
thanks for the replies. craig, that sucks!!! i'll have to take a close look at that.

eastie, thanks that link with pics is awesome. i wonder how strong those would be with epoxy? you think something like that would hold up on double-ups and chop? pop those suckers lose and game over!

great ideas though. keep 'em coming if anybody else has any. thanks --b

Sodar
02-05-2009, 08:23 PM
Is anyone able to see the pics on the N site? I get a page that says the board is not available.

brucemac
02-05-2009, 08:27 PM
it must be down, i saw them earlier, but now getting the same message as you...

jgarner
02-05-2009, 08:43 PM
The N board worked for me. That is definately a very slick set up.

east tx skier
02-05-2009, 08:55 PM
thanks for the replies. craig, that sucks!!! i'll have to take a close look at that.

eastie, thanks that link with pics is awesome. i wonder how strong those would be with epoxy? you think something like that would hold up on double-ups and chop? pop those suckers lose and game over!

great ideas though. keep 'em coming if anybody else has any. thanks --b

If you have never used epoxy puddy, try it. That stuff is crazy strong.

east tx skier
02-05-2009, 08:57 PM
I think they're doing maintenance on it for a couple of days starting tomorrow or the next day, but it is up for the moment.

brucemac
02-05-2009, 10:17 PM
trying to find those clickbond standoffs, but no luck. you have to register on the clickbond site to get in. they must sell those somewhere. i wonder if home depot or lowes has something like that. probably not. maybe a screw supply shop or something.

east tx skier
02-05-2009, 11:23 PM
I think a washer, a t-nut, and a welder might be an option on recreating those. I looked at Lowes and Depot at the time and no luck. Fastenol maybe.

Sodar
02-05-2009, 11:27 PM
I got mine here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-tee-nuts/=h8d6g

east tx skier
02-05-2009, 11:44 PM
What search term did you use?

east tx skier
02-05-2009, 11:45 PM
Never mind. Took a minute to come up.

brucemac
02-06-2009, 12:29 AM
sodar, you looking to do something similar as that post eastie linked? did you find the standoffs too?

they have some on that site, but they don't quite look like they have much "shoulder"? the part that would bond and rest againt the hull. i'll keep looking.

bullit4888
02-06-2009, 01:00 AM
I went with the gluing blocks on the wall method and epoxied 4 marine plywook blocks about 3" by 4". I contemplated a few different methods including cutting a strip and forming it to the side of the hull like a method mentioned above. With small blocks I did not have to shape them to the hull. I also put a carriage bolt flush on the hull side to mount the board to instead of screwing into the block. In one of the pics you can see the bolt coming through in the bottom left but I hardly notice them.

Wake2wake
02-06-2009, 01:13 AM
WOW! bullit4888, that is a very nice looking set up youve got there. what all do you have hooked up on that board?

bullit4888
02-06-2009, 01:45 AM
Thanks. I'm really happy the way it turned out. The Eclipse is running a pair of wetsounds 485's, the amp below it is running a 12 inch sub. On the left there is the distribution block and capacitor (I'm not sure if it's doing all that much but I had it laying around so I threw it in there). On the right there is a line driver, and waves maxxbase process that helps with the bass for the tower speakers. the stock amp is still on the right side but I had to move it up a bit. there is also a wetsounds ws-420 and HSE revolution volume control controlling everything.

here's the other side

brucemac
02-06-2009, 09:32 AM
that looks really nice bullit4888

east tx skier
02-06-2009, 10:07 AM
How is the carriage bolt secured to the hull? Or did you glue a board to the hull with the carriage bolt on the opposite side and then bolt another board onto it?

Sodar
02-06-2009, 10:08 AM
sodar, you looking to do something similar as that post eastie linked? did you find the standoffs too?

they have some on that site, but they don't quite look like they have much "shoulder"? the part that would bond and rest againt the hull. i'll keep looking.

Not really.

Those are fine.

B-rad
02-06-2009, 05:09 PM
brucemac, those connectors from the N site work great. A friend used them and they are sweet. my 99-xstar is tight but I pulled back the carpet and liquid nailed some wood to the glass and replaced the carpet then mounted my amps, two hifonics 800's and a 1200 d for the subs. ran my wires under the carpet and all you see is amps. just a thought.

brucemac
02-06-2009, 06:07 PM
hey brad, any issues with water from that vent? does your x-star have those vents next to the tower base that go through into the storage area and on into the floor?