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brucemac
02-02-2009, 03:46 PM
I spent the last half hour or so reading search results and am a bit confused.

I have a 2003 X-2 with the Zero Flex Flyer Tower. I'll look tonight, but I'm almost 100% positive that it was not pre-wired. I've got a nav light and a quick disconnect on the starboard side. I'll check the quick disconnect tonight and count the wires, but I'm sure it's just the two for the light.

Some of the search results indicated that there may be a hole to fish the wires up from the bottom on the port side near the radio in the glove box. Does anybody know what years that applied? It would be nice to have a shorter run and go up from the port side. If that's not possible and I have go go up the starboard side, does anybody know if I can get 4 pair of wires (2 minimum) up through the same hole as the nav light wires?

I've read the string/cotton ball/shop vac trick and will be attempting that.

Any additional advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm getting pretty close to pulling the triger on some upgrades and have decided to do it myself with the help of a friend who used to be an installer.

Sodar
02-02-2009, 03:59 PM
I spent the last half hour or so reading search results and am a bit confused.

I have a 2003 X-2 with the Zero Flex Flyer Tower. I'll look tonight, but I'm almost 100% positive that it was not pre-wired. I've got a nav light and a quick disconnect on the starboard side. I'll check the quick disconnect tonight and count the wires, but I'm sure it's just the two for the light.

Some of the search results indicated that there may be a hole to fish the wires up from the bottom on the port side near the radio in the glove box. Does anybody know what years that applied? It would be nice to have a shorter run and go up from the port side. If that's not possible and I have go go up the starboard side, does anybody know if I can get 4 pair of wires (2 minimum) up through the same hole as the nav light wires?

I've read the string/cotton ball/shop vac trick and will be attempting that.

Any additional advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm getting pretty close to pulling the triger on some upgrades and have decided to do it myself with the help of a friend who used to be an installer.

I am going through the same thing on my '07 mini tower (same tower as your '03).

Basically what is written is only 1/2 true. At the bottom of the tower leg, there is a hole already drilled to run up to the top of the tower (see attached picture for location of hole). From what I can see, there are no holes that allow the wire to run from the stereo, through the deck, up the base leg, out of the base leg and then connect with with the top section of the tower.

Pretty much what I am saying is my tower will be coming off, and the port base will be coming off to allow me to drill holes in the hull and the base leg for my speaker wires to go through.

brucemac
02-02-2009, 04:02 PM
yuck, that is what i was afraid of. aside from wire length, is there any issues with trying to use the same holes as the nav light wires? is that possible? where do they go? front leg or rear? anybody know? thanks for the reply sodar.

Sodar
02-02-2009, 04:05 PM
Wires for the nav light go down the front leg.

I guess you could use the same hole, but I want to make new holes to allow enough room for 2 - 2/14 gauge speaker wires to fit up there. I already found the identical connector as the nav light connector in a 4 wire set up.

brucemac
02-02-2009, 04:12 PM
hhmmm okay, thanks. i could probably live with 16 gauge if it would fit and I'm probably only going to run 2 pair of wires. if i ever added a second pair of speakers, chances are they'd be in parallel so i wouldn't have to mess with it. if it fits, i'll try for 4 pair to be safe. when are you doing this sodar? soon?

one thing that's kind of funny on mine is, i've got quite a bit of slack on that light connector wire. i don't even have to disconnect it to fold my tower down although i do. here's hoping i can make that work. it's only a few more feet of wire really so no harm there i suppose.

wonder if there's any way i could actually use the light wire to pull the new speaker wire along with either a string or new wire for the light. that may be an option? what do you think?

Justjoe
02-02-2009, 04:13 PM
Quick tip on fishing wires. You can use string tied to a piece of metal (make sure it's small enough to get out your exit hole). By using a magnet (I used one of those hockey puck sized floor sweeping magnets-home depot) you can "drive" the metal piece up to and out of the hole. Works fast, and eliminates alot of frustration because you can HEAR the thing being dragged up the inside. Take the other end of the string and tie it to your wire.

flipper
02-02-2009, 04:26 PM
Quick tip on fishing wires. You can use string tied to a piece of metal (make sure it's small enough to get out your exit hole). By using a magnet (I used one of those hockey puck sized floor sweeping magnets-home depot) you can "drive" the metal piece up to and out of the hole. Works fast, and eliminates alot of frustration because you can HEAR the thing being dragged up the inside. Take the other end of the string and tie it to your wire.

Never herd that one.....good idea

Sodar
02-02-2009, 04:52 PM
hhmmm okay, thanks. i could probably live with 16 gauge if it would fit and I'm probably only going to run 2 pair of wires. if i ever added a second pair of speakers, chances are they'd be in parallel so i wouldn't have to mess with it. if it fits, i'll try for 4 pair to be safe. when are you doing this sodar? soon?

one thing that's kind of funny on mine is, i've got quite a bit of slack on that light connector wire. i don't even have to disconnect it to fold my tower down although i do. here's hoping i can make that work. it's only a few more feet of wire really so no harm there i suppose.

wonder if there's any way i could actually use the light wire to pull the new speaker wire along with either a string or new wire for the light. that may be an option? what do you think?

I will be doing my tower speaker install on the weekend of March 21st.

You can pull the wires through using your tower light. I would recommend pulling 2 strings through with the light wire, leave one string and pull the light wire back through with the other and then pull the speaker wires through with the left over string. When you pull the tower lights through, you will need to disassemble the weathertight connection being careful not to ruin the prongs.

bturner2
02-02-2009, 04:59 PM
I did my 03 X2 this fall and there was no hole going from inside the boat to the bottom of the tower leg. I didn't have anyone around to help out with taking the tower apart so I drilled the hole from the bottom through the base of the tower leg while it was on the boat. It wasn't all that hard to do but I did measure about 50 times and took pictures of the other side to see where exacty they drilled their hole for the tower light. I started with a rather small drill bit to make sure I was in the correct place and used a series of bits to expand the dia. of the hole and finished off with a uni bit.
When the base was complete I drilled a hole to match the location of the hole for the tower light. I used some wire I had to fish the speaker wire up the bottom leg and again up the top of the tower to the speaker positions. All said it took me about an hour and a half most of which was spent measuring and looking for wire to use as a fish tool. Sodar's method is by far the safest and recommended by my dealer. If you have someone to help get the tower off and on this is probably the best way to go.

brucemac
02-02-2009, 05:13 PM
Okay, thanks bturner2. So you did all this from the bow then right? Or did you climb in through the observer seat and squirm your way to it?

Should I decide to remove the tower, I take it I have to remove both the front and the rear mounts to get enough room to drill through the plate? Or can I simply remove the front mount?

Any risk of losing integrity of the tower or spider cracks if I remove it? If so, I'd take my chances drilling without removing the tower probably.

I'll have to try and get a closer look tonight. It would be nice to just use the same run as the nav light, but there may not be room.

bainez23
02-03-2009, 11:24 AM
keep me posted on how this is going bruce mac because i need to run wires for tower lights? let me know which method you use for fishing it thru!

brucemac
02-03-2009, 01:25 PM
Will do. I'll post up when I get it done. I plan on purchasing the stuff in the next week or so and doing it with my friend probably early next month. I took a quick look last night and I'm pretty sure I can get a couple pairs of 16AWG or 14AWG wires through the same hole as the nav light down to the bow. If I can get that done, then I would think it should be possible to pull them up the tower as well. Worst case, I may have to use the nav light wires to pull it through along with a guide string to replace them. You guys think I'd be okay with 16AWG speaker wire? I know 14 is preferred, but it's going to be tight. Thanks for the replies.

bturner2
02-03-2009, 04:30 PM
I don't think taking the tower off would cause any problems with the fiberglass. Getting to the front mounting bolt is really easy. Not sure how you would get to the back one though, which is one of the reasons I didn't take mine off.
I drilled mine laying on my back under the observers seat. Not the most pleasent position and getting in and out was a bite.
I don't think you'll be able to fish additional wires easily through the Nav Light hole as it was pretty tough geting just the 2 wires through a larger hole on the other side. Your speaker wires runs will also get much longer as (at least the way I was going to run them) they will need to go around the bow and then up the tower. Those same wires for the nav light will also be in the way when you fish the wire up the tower leg. Not trying to talk you out of anything here, just letting you know how I justified drilling the new hole on the other tower leg. If you measure everything out you can have the new hole drilled in 15 minutes, From there you're another 45 minutes from being done.

brucemac
02-04-2009, 12:02 AM
CHA-CHING!!! found the hole on the port side!

there was a hole there, right there next to the front tower bolt!!! SCORE!!!

can't believe i missed it before. sure enough though, there it was. not super big, but i was able to run an RG6 cable up to the hole that goes to the top part of the tower. so stoked! this part is going to be gravy! :)

yay!

sand2snow22
02-04-2009, 12:59 AM
Bruce, check your pm's.

Don't get too crazy. This is my friends boat!

brucemac
02-04-2009, 01:17 AM
ha ha, yeah, i've seen that second pic, that's, well, let's just say that's not me. :)

isn't that boat for sale?

that guy's got WS new XS650's in wetsounds cans in that pic. they're not even really officially out yet. i thought about doing those.

i would be interested in figuring out a way to mount my amps to the port side wall though like that pic. i'm a little tight on room on the right side of the passenger storage area and will have to do something. i won't know what until i uninstall what's there and tear it apart though.

sand2snow22
02-04-2009, 01:25 AM
Yep, his boat is for sale. He might be looking at a MC. He went to fanfare and said he had a blast.

bturner2
02-04-2009, 08:37 AM
You lucky dog. I rarely get that lucky. It's a cake from here. Good luck.

Sodar
02-04-2009, 10:49 AM
Bruce, check your pm's.

Don't get too crazy. This is my friends boat!

. .