View Full Version : Ballast upgrade specifics
01-21-2009, 01:33 PM
I am planning on pulling the hard tanks and putting in 750lb fat sac's in my 06 X1. I live 110 miles from the place that has parts so I need specifics. Do I need any extra hose or connectors to hook the factory tubes to the fat sac's in the back? Should I do teflon tape on the seals to decrease chance for leaking? Did anyone do any special valves that made filling or emptying easier? I've searched the prior threads and need these specifics answered. Thanks in advance for the help. By the grace of God I am very good at some things but these projects are not it. Please be specific and assume I don't know anything because that's closer to the truth than I want to believe.
01-21-2009, 01:43 PM
not too sure on your question but i have to ask... why you pulling the hard tanks and replacing w/ bags instead of just adding bags?
i'm not trying to be ugly or anything like that... usually most folks just add and don't remove
01-21-2009, 02:08 PM
my guess is because he'll have twice as much space when the bags aren't full. mccobmd, call flyhigh and let them know what you want to do. they're very helpful and can give you the actual part#'s for everything you need including the hose. then you could call up your shop and make sure they have everything for you before you drive in and pick it up. you may also have to add supports for the engine compartment dividers so they don't get pressed up against the manifolds by the 750's when they bulge out. i haven't done this yet, but am planning on doing something similar to phat's diy.
01-21-2009, 04:34 PM
taking out the hard tanks is an excellent move. you will now be able to store wakeboards in there with the bags empty. I did it in my old x1 and had both 2 750s and 2 400s and switched them depending on passengers. the 400s (v drive sacs) also allowed for a cooler back there buth the 750s fill the area completely. You will need extra hose for the vent and maybe the fill. on the fill line, I think I just unhooked it from the hard tank, put a fly high quick disconnect 90 degree and it was the perfect length (stress I think, i don't have the boat anymore). Get check valves for the vent so when you empty the bags, they will empty completely. Get the fly high quick disconnects (90 deg angle)on both the fill and vent. This way you can quickly take them out to let the carpet dry if need be. I used a liquid teflon tape style stuff on the quick disconnect threads. The fill hose is pretty short and I may of even used the existing hose but have some extra just incase. The vent hose will definitly need some more. I put a check valve at the MC original hose and added the additional hose to the other side of the check valve. I ran it long to make sure it didn't bind.
Basically get 10 ft of hose (i forgot the size), 2 correct size check valves (if you wish), hose clamps, razor blade, something to seal the threads, and a screwdriver and that should do it.
01-22-2009, 12:47 AM
I measured the compartment without the hard tanks and don't think there will be a problem with pushing on the manifold. I'm primarily going to surf so I'm just going to do the port side first. With the hard tank in there is only 15 inches of space and pressure on the engine compartment would be an issue with adding a 400lb sac to the hard tank. I also didn't really want to run them in sequence. Brucemac is right on about the storage space. I trailer back and forth to our lake and this will allow me to put everything but the surfboard in closed storage in the back.
01-22-2009, 11:34 PM
Did this a month ago with our '09 X1 (don't think anything has changed). Removed hard tanks (pulled hoses off the connections on the tanks and removed 8 screws each tank - came right out). In New Zealand, the fly high quick connect fittings can be a little hard to come by, so as an interim measure, I used the fittings which came out of the hard tanks. Unfortunately they are a tapered thread (and the fly high sacs are a straight thread), but with plenty of teflon tape (don't be afraid to put 10plus rounds on), they have yet to show even a tiny leak. I used the right angle fittings on the inlet/outlet of the sac, and the straight fitting on the overflow (ideally I would have liked to use a 90 degree on the overflow also, but just struggle to find the right sizing). The stock line from the pump to the inlet/outlet is perfect, no changes needed. You will need more line from the overflow to the thru-hull fitting - I used lightweight bilge hose as I never really fill them completely and the over flow is hardly used. I didn't put check valves in (mean to at some point) but have no problems with them emptying.
I would recommend using the quick connect fittings as you can remove the sacs then to allow the compartments to dry if needed.
As you have an'06, I don't think you have timers on your pumps (no reprogramming needed), but I can't remember if you have the fill/drain port under the hull, or whether it drains above the waterline??
I also used 750s in the rear, have only filled them once and had to have a whole lotta weight up front to balance. I would normally have them approx 2/3 full with KGB full, another 300ish in the walkway and another 300 on top of that across the bow seats. Plan on adding the Fly High integrated bow ballast sac (should hold 350-400) when I can figure a cost effective way of shipping one to New Zealand (shipping charges are killing it at the moment) and losing the extra 300 on the bow seats. If filling the rear ballast completely, I needed another 2 small sac in the nose/centre to tame the lip on the wake. But we went with the 750s instead of the 400s because we wanted that little more than the 400s would give us.
I did add some small 2" pieces of angle iron (painted) at the base of the partitions by the motor and this was enough to stop them flexing onto the manifolds. With those 750s full, they will flex! trust me!
Hope the project goes well.
01-24-2009, 02:16 PM
I useed the factory fittings from the hard tanks when I had my X-1... lots of tefflon tape and you are good to go!