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View Full Version : S &S Storage and Drainage HELP!!!


CameronCarey
12-23-2008, 11:06 AM
So the best thing about taking a boat back to the stringers is, you get to change things to make them the way you wanted them. This is not my first go round in restoring/ modifying a fiberglass boat and i have a few ideas............. but i would like to get some of your thoughts on increased storage space options on the S &S hull

My current plan is to tub the floor underneath the observer seat to increase the depth and move the battery to the stern port side (shifting the tank to the left a few inches)

I have several ideas for the gunnel's but, I'm sure some of the members here have come up with several innovative solutions already.

Also.......this is a wood stringer boat so i have given some thought to adding two additional drain plugs to replace the original drain paths on the bays outboard of the primary stringers.........my original drains were plugged and some water had been trapped in there.......has anyone done this?

If you have any your thoughts ideas, and pictures of your spectacular craftsmanship please share them........

sethro
12-23-2008, 11:23 AM
If you are into 3 event type skiing, plumb in a port side ballast system under the floor for dialing in the perfect wake shape when there is no observer...or the observer's weight doesn't come close to the driver's weight. :D

CameronCarey
12-23-2008, 03:34 PM
I thought about some integrated ballast tanks, and i will probably regret not installing them later...might make the rear floors removable.........just in case i change my mind...

jay73
12-24-2008, 04:48 AM
have got a similar plan with mine, was going to put additional ribs between outer stringers and side of hull with drainage holes so floor will take additional weight of sacs and was also thinking of making the centre rear section of floor removable.. (between engine mount stringers, from rear of motor hatch to fuel tank)

Bellinghamster
12-24-2008, 10:45 AM
I cut limber holes in my outboard and inboard stringers to allow all water to drain to the center of the hull. I was making new stringers at the time so that was pretty easy. If you do cut into them, you'll want to glass or some other method of sealing the exposed wood to keep water out of the stringers.

My drain is in the center of the transom, so I have to block the trailer tongue up high to get all the water out. A friend of mine as a Nautique ('79) that has a drain plug in the middle of the hull near the ski pylon... I've been considering putting one in there so it would fullly drain while flat on the trailer.

The shape of the hull will cause water to get trapped in the middle while the boat is level, so adding additional drain plugs in the transom won't help you at all. The outboard stringers should have drain limber holes at the aft ends so when you block up the front of the trailer, water should drain to the center plug. If the water path is blocked because there's junk in your bilge, the best thing to do would be to clean in up... anything in there would plug your (proposed) new drain holes anyway.

Skipper
12-24-2008, 03:46 PM
First, your work looks great.

In my experience I used the original holes but essentially "ported" them to maximize the flow of water out of the outboard stringer area into the bilge. I also used filler to gently slope from the outboard to inboard stringers to better move the water into the bilge.

Wood Stringer Inboard Rebuild Project (http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks)

CameronCarey
12-24-2008, 04:09 PM
unfortunately i already have my center stringers installed or something like the drain mouseholes you suggest would really be a good solution, My boat spent all of its life on a lift and experienced the low center collection point problem first hand!

The reason i thought about adding the two additional drain holes is......... i need to do something with the aft 2' of the stringers anyway....the previous owner replaced them up to that point. and there more or less a hollow shell.......no big deal but the tank bolts there..........and it fails provide proper support to the swim platform. so at the aft end im thinking a set of doubler or offset stringers and then placing an aft collection point and a couple of screw in copper plugs.......that way if i somehow get them plugged up i can actually clean them out ...i need to work in some kind of shift for the tank support anyway....i want to install the battery back there which to the best i can tell will require me to shift the tank about 4" to the starboard side......not sure if i will have to relocate the filler neck yet,

Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas implemented for under gunnel storage, right now im thinking a about something involving a couple of caps flush with the inboard side of the gunnel cap wall and maybe a repurposed cargo net.....to hold at least a couple skis and maby a wakebaord or two....

I should mention i will be using this on wheeler lake (Tennesee River) here in North Alabama.... and unfortuantly i do not have a dock i can leave all the water toys at...

CameronCarey
12-24-2008, 04:15 PM
since basically everyone here has the same boat i should also mention..........I will not re using my original gauges, if anyone needs a matching gauge i would be happy to sell them cheap to another S&S restorer, (i bought some NOS gauges from a newer MC, air guide speedos and all a while back) no reason for me to throw them in the ole "I will use that later file" ...if somoene else is doing a factory correct restoration...

Bellinghamster
12-25-2008, 09:33 AM
Oooh Oooh, me, please! I need gauges! Particularly a MC fuel gauge, but would consider all in order to have spares (incl. spedos)

CameronCarey
12-25-2008, 11:19 AM
i will check it and see if it works.....and let you know...does this match yours?

CameronCarey
12-25-2008, 11:21 AM
BTW Bellinghamster you can have that fuel gauge regardless. i could ship it or just bring it the next time I'm working up there..........I work in Everett/Seattle at least one week a month it seems...send me a PM and let me know if that matches your set