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JMann
12-18-2008, 01:52 PM
I have a 1991 Prostar 190 with the 351 engine and 250 hp, the tranny is the 1:1 Velvet.

I am going to change the tranny fluid and soleniod. What tranny fluid should I use?

Can I go to any Napa auto and ask for a soleniod for a 1991 ford 351 engine and bolt that on or does the soleniod need to be marine?

Thanks for you help.

flipper
12-18-2008, 01:59 PM
Dextron III ATF. This should help with any other stuff you may want to do.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=103139&postcount=6

As for the soleniod, I'd get a marine one.

mayo93prostar
12-18-2008, 03:06 PM
inquire at mc dealer (thinking of you Jim@BAWS) or online at www.skidim.com. If there is a marine solenoid available, which I expect there is, do with marine. it is sealed to avoid explosion from spark igniting gas fumes.

TMCNo1
12-18-2008, 05:15 PM
Soleniod, here, http://www.skidim.com/default.asp, call them and they can help you also.

ATF, Knowledge Center, left top of every page on TT, Owners Manuals, here, http://www.mastercraft.com/files/manuals/1991-1993_OwnersManual-PS190-PS205-ProSport205.pdf, page 39, Dexron II or III.

airdrew99
12-19-2008, 08:21 PM
JMann,
Can you post some pics of your 91? I really miss mine. I had to sell it so I can go to pharmacy school. They are an excellent year for MC.

JMann
01-12-2009, 03:14 PM
JMann,
Can you post some pics of your 91? I really miss mine. I had to sell it so I can go to pharmacy school. They are an excellent year for MC.

Here are the pictures of my 1991 prostar.

I checked my manuel and it says Dexron II tranny fluid. Whats the difference between Desron II and Dexron III? Also it says my 1:1 Velvet drive only holds 2 quarts of fluid, is that really all I need?
Thanks for you help

east tx skier
01-12-2009, 03:51 PM
Dexron III is the replacement for Dexron II.

I haven't reloaded those files yet that are linked above. If you want a copy of them, PM me.

russlars
01-12-2009, 04:33 PM
That is a beautiful '91 in great condition. I'll bet she is great to ski behind! How about some action pics in the "pics behind your MC thread"?

Gonzo
01-12-2009, 05:09 PM
Nice Trailer too!

Laurel_Lake_Skier
01-12-2009, 07:08 PM
Also it says my 1:1 Velvet drive only holds 2 quarts of fluid, is that really all I need?


Yep 2 qts is about the most you'll need.....but having a spare isn't the worst idea if you ever discover you are low. I usually start by filling with a little over 1 1/2 then run the boat to warm it, check and add to dipstick level. The amount you add depends on how much you get out. Remember to do the check with the engine/transmission warm and check right after you shut down so that oil from the cooler lines doesn't drain back into the transmission and give you a higher than normal reading.

JMann
01-14-2009, 11:35 AM
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to measure what I take out and replace with the same amount. This spring I will take it out warm it up and check again to make sure the level is correct.
I went to the auto parts store and there are a bunch of different ATF fluids. I can get Dexron II or Dexron III, synthenic or not. What do you guys recommend?

Also a trailer brake question. I went to get the fluid in the trailer breaks and it was pretty bone dry. I think they were working but it's a new to me trailer and boat so maybe they weren't. I'm going to fill up the resevoir and try to bleen them. If that doesn't work were can I buy a new master cylinder, etc?

Thanks again for all your help.

JimN
01-14-2009, 11:45 AM
If the reservoir was empty, they can't work- they're hydraulic.

If you can, remove the starter and take it in when you go for the solenoid. That way, there will be no doubt about what part you need.

Dex III has different additives and is an improvement over Dex II.

TMCNo1
01-14-2009, 11:48 AM
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to measure what I take out and replace with the same amount. This spring I will take it out warm it up and check again to make sure the level is correct.
I went to the auto parts store and there are a bunch of different ATF fluids. I can get Dexron II or Dexron III, synthenic or not. What do you guys recommend?

Also a trailer brake question. I went to get the fluid in the trailer breaks and it was pretty bone dry. I think they were working but it's a new to me trailer and boat so maybe they weren't. I'm going to fill up the resevoir and try to bleen them. If that doesn't work were can I buy a new master cylinder, etc?

Thanks again for all your help.

Drum brakes, right?
Show us a picture of the actuator on the trailer tongue and we will show you where to get the stuff or contact a MC dealer.
Probably here, http://www.ufpnet.com/

Other parts places, http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/index.html (http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/index.html)
http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/Brake-Actuators_c_87.html
(http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/index.html)

JMann
01-14-2009, 03:08 PM
Here are a couple of pictures of the trailer. Hopefully you can point me in the right direction with these. I bought brake fluid and I'm going to try to fill it and bleed the brakes to see what happens.
If that doesn't work what do you recommend my next steps are?

flipper
01-14-2009, 03:30 PM
Look inside first, and see what kind of shape it's in. If it's all full of flakes and rust, may not be worth it. They are not all that expensive, or hard to replace.

TMCNo1
01-14-2009, 05:00 PM
Here are a couple of pictures of the trailer. Hopefully you can point me in the right direction with these. I bought brake fluid and I'm going to try to fill it and bleed the brakes to see what happens.
If that doesn't work what do you recommend my next steps are?
More than likely, all the info you may need is printed/stamped on the actuator housing, but,
http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/index.html (http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/index.html),

ATWOOD Drum Brake Actuator #84132 Part Number: S-84132 $143.99 More Info (http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/product.asp?itemid=311&catid=87)43686

If you have to go as far as replacing the actuator, because of rust and in operation, replacing or rebuilding the wheel cylinders or replacing the entire brake assembly and replacing the plain steel brake lines with stainless steel lines too. If rust is present you don't want to contaminate and ruin the new actuator just to save a few bucks. The previously posted sites will have all the parts you need.

JMann
01-15-2009, 12:54 PM
Look inside first, and see what kind of shape it's in. If it's all full of flakes and rust, may not be worth it. They are not all that expensive, or hard to replace.


There is some rust but I'm going to fill it up and bleed the brakes to see if there is anything left maybe I can repair them. I don't want to spend $500 to replace the whole brake system if I don't have to. I figure about $100 per drum assembly, $150 for the actuator and $100 for the tubing.
I think my actuator is welded on so I would have to cut that off and replace with a bolt up actuator if this one if shot. Do you experts think that would be OK or do I need a weld on actuator?
Thanks

JMann
01-18-2009, 03:39 PM
More than likely, all the info you may need is printed/stamped on the actuator housing, but,
http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/index.html (http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/index.html),

ATWOOD Drum Brake Actuator #84132 Part Number: S-84132 $143.99 More Info (http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/product.asp?itemid=311&catid=87)43686

If you have to go as far as replacing the actuator, because of rust and in operation, replacing or rebuilding the wheel cylinders or replacing the entire brake assembly and replacing the plain steel brake lines with stainless steel lines too. If rust is present you don't want to contaminate and ruin the new actuator just to save a few bucks. The previously posted sites will have all the parts you need.

I think I came up with a plan. I was able to pull the master cylinder out of the actuator and order a new one for $56. When I got the old one out the piston in the master cylinder wasn't getting it's whole throw. I think by replacing the master cylinder and putting stainless steel lines is going to fix my brake problem.

I do have one question. When you push in your actuator to activate the brakes does yours retract to the original position or do you have to pull it back into position?
I'm trying to figure out if I need to replace the piston too.

Thanks for all your help

TMCNo1
01-18-2009, 06:30 PM
I think I came up with a plan. I was able to pull the master cylinder out of the actuator and order a new one for $56. When I got the old one out the piston in the master cylinder wasn't getting it's whole throw. I think by replacing the master cylinder and putting stainless steel lines is going to fix my brake problem.

I do have one question. When you push in your actuator to activate the brakes does yours retract to the original position or do you have to pull it back into position?
I'm trying to figure out if I need to replace the piston too.

Thanks for all your help

All the ones I've seen, will pull back automatically going down the road, because the tow vehicle is pulling on it, but unhitched in the driveway you'll have to pull it back to the forward position to totally release the brakes.

TMCNo1
01-19-2009, 08:37 AM
I'm trying to figure out if I need to replace the piston too.


I would think the replacement master cylinder would come with the piston installed and I would not chance using the old piston from the old one. What you are showing beside the master cylinder is the shock absorber that probably should also be replaced, as it takes the shock out of the actuator engaging and disengaging and prevents the brakes from banging on and off going down the road.

JMann
01-21-2009, 11:05 PM
My next question is......

I want to replace the drum brake shoes on the trailer. Any idea what type they are? I would rather not have to pull them off and trake them to an auto parts store if I don't have to. Again it's a 1991 ps190 with a TI trailer.

Thanks

east tx skier
01-21-2009, 11:14 PM
My next question is......

I want to replace the drum brake shoes on the trailer. Any idea what type they are? I would rather not have to pull them off and trake them to an auto parts store if I don't have to. Again it's a 1991 ps190 with a TI trailer.

Thanks

It may vary a bit.

www.trailersbydorsey.com is your friend in this instance. Prices are typically excellent.

east tx skier
01-21-2009, 11:15 PM
I would think the replacement master cylinder would come with the piston installed and I would not chance using the old piston from the old one. What you are showing beside the master cylinder is the shock absorber that probably should also be replaced, as it takes the shock out of the actuator engaging and disengaging and prevents the brakes from banging on and off going down the road.

It does come with the piston installed. I had two installed in five years.

TX.X-30 fan
01-22-2009, 12:49 AM
It does come with the piston installed. I had two installed in five years.



......................:D:D:D:D

JMann
01-22-2009, 12:36 PM
My next question is......

I want to replace the drum brake shoes on the trailer. Any idea what type they are? I would rather not have to pull them off and trake them to an auto parts store if I don't have to. Again it's a 1991 ps190 with a TI trailer.

Thanks

I'm going to replace the whole brake assembly. I don't want to do the shoes then the spring brakes or something else happens. Thank you for all you help I will check the above web sites for where to buy the assemblies.

JimN
01-22-2009, 12:50 PM
Flush the brake lines, don't just bleed them.

mayo93prostar
01-22-2009, 01:48 PM
jmann, you may want to consider replacing the drum brakes with disc brakes. disc typically last longer because they dry out better and do not rust away as fast as the drum. Disc is much better if you are ever dipping it in salt or brackish water. I did this on my 93 MC trailer with UFP brake components and I got my parts from Dorsey Trailer in OK.

JMann
01-22-2009, 01:55 PM
My next question is......

I want to replace the drum brake shoes on the trailer. Any idea what type they are? I would rather not have to pull them off and trake them to an auto parts store if I don't have to. Again it's a 1991 ps190 with a TI trailer.

Thanks

Flush the brake lines, don't just bleed them.

I took an air compressor and shot air through the lines to clean them out. They should be good. I'm also going to replace the flex line.

JMann
01-22-2009, 01:59 PM
jmann, you may want to consider replacing the drum brakes with disc brakes. disc typically last longer because they dry out better and do not rust away as fast as the drum. Disc is much better if you are ever dipping it in salt or brackish water. I did this on my 93 MC trailer with UFP brake components and I got my parts from Dorsey Trailer in OK.

Was there modification needed to bolt the disk brakes onto the trailer? What else did you need to do to convert to disks? Did the same actuator work, etc.
I'm never going to put in in brackish or salt water but while I'm rebuilding I will consider disks if they aren't to much additional work.

TMCNo1
01-22-2009, 02:47 PM
Was there modification needed to bolt the disk brakes onto the trailer? What else did you need to do to convert to disks? Did the same actuator work, etc.
I'm never going to put in in brackish or salt water but while I'm rebuilding I will consider disks if they aren't to much additional work.


It will require a disc brake actuator and reverse backup solenoid. You will have to run a wire to the solenoid from the tow vehicle backup light wiring for it to work.
The disc brake kit should bolt right up to the 4 bolt flange in the axle that the drum brake backing plate bolts to. Just verify all that with the people you buy your kit from before you purchase it.

JMann
01-22-2009, 03:03 PM
The disc brake kit should bolt right up to the 4 bolt flange in the axle that the drum brake backing plate bolts to. Just verify all that with the people you buy your kit from before you purchase it.[/QUOTE]

Thanks I'm not willing to deal with that. I'm going to stick with the drums. I will be done by the end of next week and moving on to the next project I want to complete before spring.