PDA

View Full Version : JL Audio Crossover


SaltwaterMC
12-02-2008, 03:23 PM
Does anyone know where I can get just the crossover for a JL Audio 7.7"CCS? One of mine has gone bad in one of the speakers in my boat but I can't seem to find just the crossover anywhere. Thanks guys.

ChicagoX55
12-02-2008, 05:35 PM
do you mean the tweeter?

BOATNGUYNE
12-02-2008, 06:04 PM
This should be covered under your factory warranty....See your dealer !!

SaltwaterMC
12-02-2008, 06:17 PM
I work for a dealer and my stereo is out of warranty. MasterCraft does not sell just the crossover and I am trying to avoid buying the whole woofer just to get the crossover. No, not the tweeter, the crossover is on the back of the woofer (the part that all of the wires plug in to).

SkiDog
12-02-2008, 08:30 PM
I work for a dealer and my stereo is out of warranty. MasterCraft does not sell just the crossover and I am trying to avoid buying the whole woofer just to get the crossover. No, not the tweeter, the crossover is on the back of the woofer (the part that all of the wires plug in to).

Take one out of a new boat and swap it with yours! Jim won't mind!

JimN
12-02-2008, 09:17 PM
I work for a dealer and my stereo is out of warranty. MasterCraft does not sell just the crossover and I am trying to avoid buying the whole woofer just to get the crossover. No, not the tweeter, the crossover is on the back of the woofer (the part that all of the wires plug in to).

You mean the little strip with the speaker terminals on it?

snakeoil
12-02-2008, 09:29 PM
You mean the little strip with the speaker terminals on it?




I think he said the crossover, grab those spectacles gramps.

JimN
12-02-2008, 09:54 PM
Hey Zippy- I read what he posted but I haven't seen this model before, so I didn't know the x-over was actually mounted to the woofer.

SORRY!

snakeoil
12-02-2008, 10:04 PM
Hey Zippy- I read what he posted but I haven't seen this model before, so I didn't know the x-over was actually mounted to the woofer.

SORRY!

How did you know that's what my grama used to call me.

JimN
12-02-2008, 10:17 PM
It seemed appropriate.:D

Loffgren
12-02-2008, 10:23 PM
is is a "coke" resistor ? if so how many ohms?

SaltwaterMC
12-02-2008, 11:11 PM
Yes, the crossover is mounted on the back of the woofer, and it is the piece with strip with the terminals on it.

JimN
12-02-2008, 11:18 PM
I googled that model after I posted the first time because I was familiar with their other models that had a separate crossover. That's why I asked.

SaltwaterMC
12-02-2008, 11:25 PM
Did I know something about audio that Jim N didn't? I better mark the date! I'm just messing with you man. Your knowledge is always appreciated. Thanks.

Loffgren
12-03-2008, 12:43 AM
opps i meant CHOKE not coke, if there is colors on the resistor google reistor bands and it should tell you how what resistor it is by the color of the bands around the resistor

JimN
12-03-2008, 08:47 AM
What's wrong with the crossover? Blown capacitor?

SaltwaterMC
12-03-2008, 10:20 AM
I don't know what is wrong with it. All I know is that my woofer is good and my tweeter is good but when you connect the tweeter to the terminals on the back of the woofer the output on the tweeter is BARELY audible. So I attributed it to the crossover.

JimN
12-03-2008, 10:30 AM
If you're connecting the tweeter at the terminals that are on the woofer after the low pass section of the crossover , you shouldn't hear much. What you should do is turn the volume and bass controls down, connect the tweeter and gradually increase the volume. If it doesn't crackle (and it will if you send bass through it), it's probably OK. If the amp/s power output is far above what the speakers are rated for, it's possible to kill a capacitor, due to over-voltage. Most of them are rated for 25V, maybe 35V. Exceed this and there's not that much margin.

If the tweeter doesn't work when it's connected normally, see if the crossover can be opened, somehow. If it can, it's possible to repair it.

Can you post a photo of the tweeter, woofer and where you're connecting the wires to the tweeter? Havea you called JL Audio yet? They should have a tech help number, or FAQs on their website. If you haven't used their method for setting the levels on the amp(s), do that.

Bodyshots
12-03-2008, 10:31 AM
Try Ebay they sell everything :D

SaltwaterMC
12-03-2008, 10:53 AM
I called JL Audio to see if they could send me just a x-over as I can not find a place to buy just that part, but I was on hold with them for 45 minutes and finally just hung up the phone. I am hooking up everything normally and the woofer output is fine but the tweeter output is very minimal. However, if I hook the same tweeter up to the crossover on the back of a different woofer, it works perfectly. All of my amps are JL Audio marine amps and levels are set appropriately. Nothing is being overdriven.

JimN
12-03-2008, 11:16 AM
My guess is that the High Pass filter capacitor was damaged by excessive power or clipping. It's also likely that if they mounted everything ('everything' sounding like more than it is) on a circuit board and this could have a burned trace or a solder joint failed. Those also have a polyswitch, which is there to protect the tweeter and it may have failed. It's a very cheap part, but you need to be able to get to where it's installed.

Look for a seam on the plastic cover for the crossover and see if you can open it without damaging it. If you can open it, it can be repaired. Not that I'm dumping on any speaker manufacturers but the crossover is usually pretty simple and some may charge a lot for their products because of a lot of hype. Concealing something makes it more of a mystery and it's possible that the whole crossover consists of one coil (low pass) and one capacitor (high pass). A better reason to cover the crossover is to keep it from getting wet.

Caps and coils can be pretty cheap, so it's not a lost cause. Worst case, you bypass the high pass because you just can't get to it without damaging something and install a new HP section.

SaltwaterMC
12-03-2008, 11:23 AM
Or just try and find a new x-over. That is a little more involved than I want to get for what should be a cheap part. I haven't tried opening it as it appears to be sealed.

JimN
12-03-2008, 11:43 AM
To answer the original question for this thread, I think my answer will be "Yes". I just got off the phone with the tech department and he said there was a possibility that he could get a replacement for me, and that was before I got his name and asked if he had worked for Boston Acoustics. I used to talk to him 20 years ago, when I needed techy info about their speakers, so he was pretty blown away that anyone remembered him from there.

That was like the Twilight Zone.

SaltwaterMC
12-03-2008, 11:50 AM
So how would an average guy like me go about acquiring one of these crossovers?

JimN
12-03-2008, 11:58 AM
Patience, grasshopper.

SaltwaterMC
12-03-2008, 12:14 PM
Haha... Thanks.

SaltwaterMC
12-03-2008, 01:42 PM
Here is a picture of what I am calling the crossover. This is just a speaker I grabbed off the shelf from the parts room... not mine. It can be removed by unscrewing the one hex screw seen in the middle of the unit, so an easy replacement if I can find one.

Eagle Lake Rebel
12-03-2008, 02:46 PM
Haven't looked at the back of mine, but generally it's the non polarized cap that blows out. You can get them at a parts store cheap. Make sure the cap has NP on it (non polarized). Most of the time if you blow the Xover you blow the tweeter too,but you may be lucky and only need to spend about a buck or two for a fix.

JimN
12-03-2008, 03:35 PM
You can get NP caps easily enough but it could be the polyswitch, which he confirmed is in there. Also, the crossovers are potted, which means it's basically a solid chunk of epoxy with a crossover embedded in it. The replacement crossover does come off by removing that screw and un-plugging the woofer wires. I haven't heard back yet but I'll post what he'll do. He said engineering doesn't release info about part values, etc and confirmed my Professor Frink impersonation of "They could never understand how it works because it's much too commmmmmplicated!".

I'm also going to get more details about the questions I had about amp level setting, according to their 9 step process (which he probably developed).

BOATNGUYNE
12-03-2008, 04:01 PM
Have you tried calling Marine Audio ?

JimN
12-03-2008, 04:48 PM
So they can sell one to him? I'm trying to get it under warranty.

SaltwaterMC
12-03-2008, 05:57 PM
Thanks Jim.

BOATNGUYNE
12-03-2008, 06:25 PM
So they can sell one to him? I'm trying to get it under warranty.

Well, Thats who you would contact if you were to "Try" to get it covered under warranty !!

JimN
12-03-2008, 08:08 PM
I called JL directly and talked with someone I knew 20 years ago, when he was at Boston Acoustics, as I posted earlier. He's working on it..

snakeoil
12-03-2008, 08:24 PM
Well, Thats who you would contact if you were to "Try" to get it covered under warranty !!



Dale Carnegie. Are you trying or does it just come naturally.

snakeoil
12-03-2008, 08:29 PM
Well, Thats who you would contact if you were to "Try" to get it covered under warranty !!





44 Posts and you are bustin a guy's balls that is a well respected contributor to this forum with over 5,000 helpful posts.

This is exactly why this forum has lost its luster.


Great job JimN you rock as usual!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BOATNGUYNE
12-03-2008, 10:27 PM
44 Posts and you are bustin a guy's balls that is a well respected contributor to this forum with over 5,000 helpful posts.

This is exactly why this forum has lost its luster.


Great job JimN you rock as usual!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I was not trying to Bust Jim's balls...........only tring to help the guy who started the thread. I had made my last post becuase I didnt want Jim to think I was referring the guy to someone who couldnt help get this taken care under warranty !

I guess the next time I want to chime in on a thread I will make damn sure I have atleast 160 threads under my belt like you !!!!

I had no idea this forum had lost it's luster and if it did lose it's luster it would be
because of people like you..... Who think they are the Thought Police !

JimN
12-03-2008, 10:43 PM
They would probably be the place to call if his speakers were still under warranty, but they aren't. He just wanted more info than he had already found (also said he was on hold for 45 minutes). Since I had some time this AM, I called JL and the person I talked to said he may be able to get it covered.

Thread count doesn't matter.

BOATNGUYNE
12-03-2008, 10:58 PM
I totally agree..........Were both just tryin' to help someone out !!

Glad to hear that you may have it covered and he can save some $$

snakeoil
12-03-2008, 11:12 PM
Well, Thats who you would contact if you were to "Try" to get it covered under warranty !!




Let the forum judge??

Eagle Lake Rebel
12-03-2008, 11:52 PM
Boyz boyz let's not be so testy at Christmas time. Worst case skip the JL Xover and parallel the tweeter off the mid-bass connections from the amp. Put a NP cap in line on the + lead to the tweeter and bingo you are done. I would guess JL would tell you the cap size. If not it is not hard to come up with a SWAG that will work just fine. I bet Jim can recommend a number off the top of his head that will fill the bill.

JimN
12-04-2008, 12:32 AM
Boyz boyz let's not be so testy at Christmas time. Worst case skip the JL Xover and parallel the tweeter off the mid-bass connections from the amp. Put a NP cap in line on the + lead to the tweeter and bingo you are done. I would guess JL would tell you the cap size. If not it is not hard to come up with a SWAG that will work just fine. I bet Jim can recommend a number off the top of his head that will fill the bill.

I already posted that their engineering squad won't tell what the values are, plus it's a 12dB/octave filter with a polyswitch, which may be what failed. It can't be opened because it's potted with epoxy, or IMO, the excessive heat wouldn't have caused this. That tweeter probably wouldn't like too much mid-range, anyway.

I bet if we sent a bunch of pocket protectors, they'd tell us anything we wanted.

Hey- if they'll ship a replacement as a goodwill gesture, why not let them? As I said, it's not final but he thinks it's a possibility.

Sure was weird talking to him again, after almost 20 years.

Eagle Lake Rebel
12-04-2008, 12:57 AM
I'd put a 9 to 10 microfarad NP @ 50v inline on the + lead and let it go at that. It's been a long time since I've made up rough Xovers, but if memory serves me I think that's the range cap I would put inline when folks would come into the shop with raw drivers that they wanted installed in there 442's, 225's, Trans Ams and so on. Man this is making me feel old.

JimN
12-04-2008, 10:12 AM
C=1/2ΠFR
L=R/2ΠF

I had to look up the formula for the inductor, too. If the replacement crossover falls through, Parts Express has all of the parts needed, but it would be nice to know the values, so they match.

JimN
12-04-2008, 04:44 PM
Saltwater- read your PM.

scott_fx
12-11-2008, 11:34 PM
I'd put a 9 to 10 microfarad NP @ 50v inline on the + lead and let it go at that. It's been a long time since I've made up rough Xovers, but if memory serves me I think that's the range cap I would put inline when folks would come into the shop with raw drivers that they wanted installed in there 442's, 225's, Trans Ams and so on. Man this is making me feel old.

before you can suggest a value you'd have to know the impedance of the speaker. also... would the impedance load be changed if you tap the signal wire before the x-over? you don't want to fry the amplifier or head unit.

another option is to buy a prebuilt x-over from parts express and just bypass the jl x-over all together. you'd have to mount the x-over in little case (make it out of plexi to keep it safe from water). don't think they incorporated any zobel filters or any sort of baffle step compensation (nor do i think you'd hear the difference on the boat)... just a thought

JimN
12-11-2008, 11:49 PM
There's no point for this speaker since the replacement is on its way. Most car/marine crossovers aren't as complex as what's in a home speaker unless it's a really high dollar system. Also, when a sub is used, there's not much reason for a Zobel as long as the high pass is crossed over above the resonance frequency. I think we discussed your idea about a replacement from PE before I talked to JL. Radio Shack sells project boxes that would work for this and they're pretty cheap, although they may melt, knowing how this guy cranks the crap out of his stereo.:D

For those here, and anyone you know who has JL amps in their car or boat- the 9 step setup on their site is a good way to make sure it stays clean. As I suspected, they used an oscilloscope to find the maximum clean level, shut it off and disconnected the speakers, attached the probes and turned it on again to measure the voltage. This is assuming that the power cables are sufficient. Their amps aren't bashful when it comes to taking the current they need, so heavier is better, as always. He also said their amps are designed to produce rated power with supply voltage as low as roughly 11.5VDC-16VDC.

scott_fx
12-12-2008, 11:40 AM
ah. i didn't read every post. just trying to help :)

JimN
12-12-2008, 11:48 AM
No problem- some of these threads get pretty long and reading everything takes forever. For a situation where a replacement just isn't available or when someone wants to do their own, this would be a good way to go about it.

JimN
12-19-2008, 10:55 AM
Did it show up?

Jim@BAWS
12-19-2008, 02:06 PM
Take one out of a new boat and swap it with yours! Jim won't mind!

Josh...it looks like you need some frequency grease for the FLUX CAPACITOR

Rub some on the outside so the OHMS go through the X-cross over thing faster

That should help.

JimN has NOTHIN on me

Other than that BAWS has an account with JL. I am sure that you could get a good
deal there HA HA HA

Jim@BAWS...always watchin

JimN
12-19-2008, 04:46 PM
Josh...it looks like you need some frequency grease for the FLUX CAPACITOR

Rub some on the outside so the OHMS go through the X-cross over thing faster

That should help.

JimN has NOTHIN on me

Other than that BAWS has an account with JL. I am sure that you could get a good
deal there HA HA HA

Jim@BAWS...always watchin

I may not have anything on ya but I sent it out on the 10th after getting it from JL. And I don't even have an account.

Flux grease is great stuff. For a variety of uses. That we shouldn't discuss here. Or anywhere nice people go.

I still want to know where the electrons go after they leave my toaster.