View Full Version : Painting Hull
11-08-2008, 08:50 PM
I'm wondering if any of you have ever painted a fiberglass boat / Mastercraft. If so, what product(s) did you use? Have any of you tried and/or seen the results of Interlux Perfection paint? I'm dubious that a brushed on paint can level and look good. Long story short, I've found a boat with a rebuilt / motor trans, but the hull has been painted and will need to be painted again at some point soon. Any information will be appreciated. Thanks!
11-08-2008, 09:04 PM
I had an old Hydrostream V-king that needed new paint. We use Dupont imron an had great results. Like any paint job, it's all in the prep work. That boat weighed about 800 lbs, so it was pretty easy to flip over. Something like an MC would be a nightmare to flip, which would obviously make it pretty hard to paint.
One thing to remember is that it is paint and not gel coat. You're spraying on top of the gel, so it is far less durable.
11-08-2008, 09:05 PM
I had a boat (not Mastercraft) painted by a shop that specialized in Corvette work. It was done in Candy apple red and came out fantastic! Try to get some opinions from shops that do fiberglass work/paint.
You're not considering a brush-on application, are you?
11-08-2008, 11:34 PM
When I purchased my last MC, I drove up to the dealer about 2 hours away. When I got there, there was a boat outside being washed. So I assumed that it was the boat I was going to see. However the interior in the back was out. I asked to guy working on it what was the deal. "Oh, we just repaired it from a boating accident and just got it painted". He told me that it is not uncommon to paint boats, even tourny boats. Fortunately, that wasn't the boat that I was buying.
So yes, it can be done. Honestly, I couldn't tell on that boat.
11-09-2008, 04:04 AM
i painted a view,...the last 25 years...lol
suspect a 7 year lifetime on the coats before oxidation occurs.
This depends on how a boat is stored in the winter and summer UV lights will break the paint down.
With any PU paint like perfection you can NOT paint the bottom.If you leave the boat in the water for long periods ,like 3 months or so it WILL blister in time.When trailered each time there will be no problems.I always recomend a solid bottom paint wich is build up from a osmose protecting system(5 layers gelschield and 2 layers anti-fouling) up to 1 inch above the waterline.
From there work on with perfection.
Remove decals - wash the boat down for any wax & sillicone residue - Tape it -sand the boat with a 180 grit (USE A FOAM PAD) - remove damaged tape - wash it - tape it (3m long period)- add a layer of perfection pre-coat,dilute see specs.
Apply the paint even with a roller(foam will do but there are better ones)then take a flat soft brush and gently strike 1 up and 1 down with the tip of the brush to remove the air bubbles.
it will leave some stripes but don,t worry about them at this time.Work only 1 or 1,5 foot ahead.
wait 16 hours at +/- 60f- add a second layer without sanding this one will burn to the first layer.Wait 2.5 days for the paint to dry.
sand the boat with a 320 grit,again use a foam pad and a good light,..sand untill all those brush stripes are gone.Do not sand to far when this happens ( wich will occur) take a spraygun and spray those spots.,..dry carefully sand it again.and wash the mist arrond that spot.
you will now have a perfectly prept base coat.
ad 1 layer of perfection finish coat,....roller brush 1 foot at the time,work fast this will give the paint more time to flow....perfection will flow better than the pre coats you,ll have less brush strokes,..it will take about 30 minutes before the paint will flow like a mirror.
wait 16 hours add another layer,..there will be some brush strokes now because of the fresh paint from the day before.
wait 2 ,5 day sand the boat down with a 400 grit FOAM PAD no time for mistakes now,wash it with water,..make sure all tape edges are sharp and clean.
you will now have a perfectly prepared finishing base.
Be shure the pre layers are completely hardened,..this is important for your final layer.
Use a little more thinner NR 9 (see specs) and work fast the more time it has to flow.
11-09-2008, 09:49 AM
I painted my 89 Tristar, but only the accent stripe. Used Dupont Imron. Came out great and you could not tell it was painted. Saw the boat this summer and still looked great after 7 years.
11-09-2008, 03:14 PM
Thanks for the info. Not sure if I would brush on Perfection or not, was kind of curious to see what results others had obtained.
Holman, was that yacht in the picture roller / brush painting? I'm impressed if you were able to obtain a smooth finish with a roller / brush on a black boat. Good to know that you recommend gelshield / two layers of anti-fouling paint. The boat will be in slightly brackish water (one end of the lake and the other has a small river that flows into the lake at high tide - the marina is about 8-9 miles from there, so it's not too salty. Here are a couple pics of the boat here (I know, not a Mastercraft, but my next boat will likely be a Prostar 205, so this is the stepping stone boat - after all, anything is better than a 115 hp outboard! ;) )
11-09-2008, 03:15 PM
Hmmm, that didn't work... let's try this...
11-09-2008, 04:12 PM
So do you you roll you final coat or do you spray it. If you roll it how do you get such a smooth finish that looks like glass? Also your top color coat os that the final or do you put some sort of sealer over that?
11-09-2008, 09:32 PM
nope ,..roler and finish with the tip of a brush,.in fact i use the roller for a even aplication and use the brush for the air bubbles...it is just the tip of the brush and almost no pressure.
11-10-2008, 12:15 AM
If you paint a MasterCraft, prepare to see a drastic reduction in resale value:(
11-10-2008, 09:39 AM
Well I only have 4 grand in my MC and well it was repainted one but done at a shoddy level. After you put ur final top coat on do you resand that one and buff it. Or just roll it and brush it. I'm juist trying to figure out how to get such a good finish this way. I believe evry bit of it it just seens crazy! That paint looks better than some cars that have 15 thousand in paint sprayed on. Btw thanks for the info!!!!!
11-10-2008, 03:07 PM
i,m 45 and started working when i was 15,..Almost 30 years with a brush leaves some skills.
Your Final layer of paint should be ready,..it is not wise to buff fresh paint.It needs a few weeks to dry 100% and become solid.The paint contains UV protection chemicals that float to the surface,it is not OK to buff those away.
if you have any more Q feel free to PM,and i,ll try to assist when necessary.
Maybe erkoehler thought about painting new MC boats.
11-12-2008, 02:15 PM
Thanks for the excellent info. I really appreciate you taking the time to write that up! I'm impressed with your results! Definitely going to keep your advice in mind. As for resale, it would be for my already painted Sidewinder and the Supra that I was considering, again, already painted.
Any recommendations for a primer if you don't know what type of paint has been previously used a on a boat (I think it's automotive and it's located above and below the waterline), and it's started to peel? Looks like th previous owner used some type of filler or filler primer that didn't bond very well with the paint and/or react very well to flexing. That being said, the paint is probably 15 yrs old.
11-12-2008, 03:17 PM
sand all old paint off,...using a 180 grit.(WITH FOAM PAD!!!) hehe can,t be to carefull,..otherwise you,ll leave marks .with a 180 grit,sanding the boat will go fast,..you could top it off after a 180 with a 240 just to be sure(i would recommend that those 2 extra hours doesn,t hurt)
epoxy primekote,as a primer.add 2 layers that will fill the sanding scratches.
If you need a putty watertite is an epoxy filler wich can be used beneath the waterline.
let it dry real good otherwise you,ll get problems with the primer.
When the watertite filler is 100% hardened (after 2 days)it can be sanded easely.