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TOO-TALL
10-12-2008, 04:56 PM
I did a search but, didn't really find what I was looking for.

I have a 2003 x2 V-Drive and notice alot of water in the bilge after a day on the water.I'm sure the packing is worn out.
Is this very hard to repalce?
Does the prop saft need to come out?

Thanks T-T

TMCNo1
10-12-2008, 05:59 PM
Here are two links, one for replacing the packing/tightening and one for tightening, http://easttxskier.com/stuffingbox.html and http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=503319&postcount=52.

The stuffing box/shaft log may just need tightening no older than it is, but here is a link to the packing if you find it needs replacing, http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1032 and you will have to determine if you have a 1" or 1 1/8" shaft.
No, the shaft does not need to be removed to accomplish this task!

bturner2
10-13-2008, 08:58 AM
I have a 2003 X2 also but mine came with a dripless shaft seal. Are you sure you have a traditional packing nut? If you have a small tube running from one of the cooling lines on the motor to the packing nut then you have a dripless shaft seal. Have you actually seen where the water is coming in from? There are a ton of places water can enter a boat (rudder shaft seal, rub ralis, fittings, etc). The traditional packing nut is a great place to start if you have one but you should also be able to spot this quickly by just watching it while the boat is in gear while in the water. Normal water intrusion from a tradtional packing nut is about 1 drip per second while under way, nothing while the shaft is not turning. You shouldn't see anything from a dripless shaft seal when working properly. The graphic disk on the dripless shaft seal can get dirt in them and cause them to leak or go bad but you should get a lot of hours out of them before this happens. I'd try to identify the soure of the leak before tearing things apart. I've found it's better to work smarter not harder when it comes to any kind of boat repair as many parts are difficult to get to.

TOO-TALL
10-15-2008, 08:34 PM
I just double checked.I do not have the dripless packing.
It is going to be a B-I-T-C-H to change.
I hope its the rudder leaking now that I seen how tucked away the packing nut is.I'll take a closer look this weekend.

Thanks for the info guys.

cbryan70
10-15-2008, 08:36 PM
this thread offends me :toast::friday::cry:

dmayer84
10-15-2008, 08:41 PM
i have to do mine this winter i am wondering if it would just be easier to put the dripless in so i never have to touch it again.

TMCNo1
10-15-2008, 08:43 PM
I just double checked.I do not have the dripless packing.
It is going to be a B-I-T-C-H to change.
I hope its the rudder leaking now that I seen how tucked away the packing nut is.I'll take a closer look this weekend.

Thanks for the info guys.


Loosen the packing nut completely, move it forward and add a couple sticks of packing , tighten it back down properly and off ya go!

FrankSchwab
10-16-2008, 02:03 AM
Never done that on a v-drive, eh #1? ;)

Too-Tall -
Yes, it's a lady dog. For me, the hardest part was getting some kind of wrench on the two nuts; if you don't solve that problem, it's all over. Once you solve it, it's kind of a pain, but not nearly so bad.

I found that a pair of Large Jaw Vise Grips (http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100318&search=false)
worked well for the nut that I wanted to hold stationary. I never did find a good solution for the other one; the problem is (on mine) that you need something with a short handle to be able to rotate it, but a short handled, 2" wrench is hard to come by (at least for a cheap barstitch like me).

With a hooked dental pick, it took about 2 minutes to get the old packing out, and about 3 to cut and insert the new pieces. Then it took another hour to get the nuts retightened.

Good luck,

/frank

TMCNo1
10-16-2008, 06:29 AM
I've always used a large round flat nose punch to knock the jamb nut loose and tighten it, then a pipe wrench to tighten our loosen the packing nut.

x-10ron
10-16-2008, 08:42 AM
I just redid my packing on my x-10, 2 people 4 hours,pain in the butt!!! found a 2in crowsfoot work the best to loosen/tighten the nut, small pick with a 45 degree angle and some advil before you start. Once the nut broke free I could uses the crowsfoot with out a ratch to do most the work.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=2275&PartNo=fc64a&group_id=270&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

Grover777
10-16-2008, 08:54 AM
shaft packing....heh heh heh!!!

Sounds nasty!!

bturner2
10-17-2008, 04:59 PM
My brother in law owns a waterjet cutting shop and cut a set for me on his Flow Waterjet. We were going to start selling them but didn't think we would see the deamnd to make it worth it. Don't bother with the cheap stuff at West Marine that looks like a large cresent wrench, it's pretty much worthless. You could try this one at Discount Inboard Marine.....
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WRENCH
It says it's made for V-Drives.

TOO-TALL
11-07-2008, 11:47 PM
How am I going to get a wrench on the packing nut??? There is no room.

Maybe I Won't have to.
I think my ballast bag in the ski locker has a leak.

FrankSchwab
11-08-2008, 12:20 AM
That looks kinda tough...Worse than mine, even.

My suggestion would be to put the boat on the water, climb in the back, and have your buddy drive around. Look at the amount of water coming out of the packing - a drip every 5-30 seconds is probably fine. A drop every second is fine; you'll just have to run the bilge every now and then.

If it's not leaking, spend the time to figure out where the water is coming from. Believe me, a day on the lake trying to figure out where the water is coming from is far, far preferable to trying to get to that thing!

/frank

TMCNo1
11-08-2008, 10:46 AM
42000
This is actually the wrench sold here, http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WRENCH and has holes for a 3/8" and 1/2" ratchet/bar for tight places, but with a 8"round 42001
hatch in the floor, over the stuffing box/shaft log like I installed on our direct drive it works great in the tight space without removing the motor box, back seat, gas tank panel and the floor panel. 10 minute job max to tighten, if your slow!

cbryan70
11-08-2008, 11:07 AM
What are the throw rugs for?

TMCNo1
11-08-2008, 11:17 AM
What are the throw rugs for?

They wear instead of the carpet and cooler too!

Davo
11-25-2008, 11:10 AM
bump for some good info.

I guess I just need to figure out if I have the 1" shaft...

my boat is an '02 X-5.....basically a 190 hull with the Predator engine (351 ci Vortec)....typical tranny, I believe 1:1.

also have a buddy with a '95 190 with a LT-1 engine and the powerslot tranny who I'm ordering some packing material for....not sure if he has a different diameter shaft on that boat.

any idea if these two boats have the 1" diameter shaft and will require the material and lengths that TMCNo1 has outlined in his single post thread (linked here on page 1)...?? (he spec'd 1/4" packing material cut to 4 1/8" lengths for the 1" shaft packing replacement)

TMCNo1
11-25-2008, 11:33 AM
bump for some good info.

I guess I just need to figure out if I have the 1" shaft...

my boat is an '02 X-5.....basically a 190 hull with the Predator engine (351 ci Vortec)....typical tranny, I believe 1:1.

also have a buddy with a '95 190 with a LT-1 engine and the powerslot tranny who I'm ordering some packing material for....not sure if he has a different diameter shaft on that boat.

any idea if these two boats have the 1" diameter shaft and will require the material and lengths that TMCNo1 has outlined in his single post thread (linked here on page 1)...?? (he spec'd 1/4" packing material cut to 4 1/8" lengths for the 1" shaft packing replacement)

1:1 is usually 1/4" for 1" shaft. PowerSlot has a 1 1/8" shaft, so 3/16" and can be found here, http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1032 . Your transmission gear ratio is stamped on a tag on top of the transmission where the Serial # is and anything other than 1:1 is 1 1/8" shaft requiring 3/16" packing rope, call to order and verify with whoever you buy from to be sure.

When you install, measure twice or more before you cut the lengths, don't take anyone's word for the lengths. That was a link I captured from another post and I can't verify the length is correct.

Davo
11-25-2008, 01:12 PM
you da man, TMC. I'll check the tag on the transmission...and the lengths before I cut.

any opinion on the dripless Gore-Tex material versus the standard waxed?

TMCNo1
11-25-2008, 02:03 PM
you da man, TMC. I'll check the tag on the transmission...and the lengths before I cut.

any opinion on the dripless Gore-Tex material versus the standard waxed?

From what has been posted it does as good or better job than the wax kind, but I can't speak from experience, as I've got a handfull of the wax kind that I have to use.

Skipper
11-25-2008, 02:33 PM
you da man, TMC. I'll check the tag on the transmission...and the lengths before I cut.

any opinion on the dripless Gore-Tex material versus the standard waxed?

Gore-Tex is far superior to the old wax rope. Certainly worth the extra cost.