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View Full Version : Plugged my heater outlet/inlet at the engine


ROB
09-12-2008, 12:58 PM
I've got a 89 240 maristar. The heater coil was leaking like crazy. I live in So Cal and never plan on using the heater so I decided to remove the unit and plugged the two lines at the engine with 1/2" brass fittings. A little late now, but any problems with my approach.

flipper
09-12-2008, 01:21 PM
I would think you should have connected the hoses together, rather than plug them off. The water would go into the heater through one hose, and out through the other. Connecting the hoses would be more of the same thing, with out the heater in the middle. That said, I don't know if the way you did it would hurt anything or not. Somebody will be along that knows more than I soon.

WTRSK1R
09-12-2008, 01:46 PM
When I added my heater to my '92 PS205, there were plugs there from the factory that I had to remove. You are GOOD to go.

Steve

Bellinghamster
09-12-2008, 11:20 PM
What are you going to do with your old heater? I live up in the NW corner of Washington State, and would like to use a heater anytime I'm in the boat!

Plugging the ports on the engine is just fine.

-Pete

ROB
09-13-2008, 03:28 PM
Right now the entire core housing is sitting in my garage along with the two hoses. At the engine, I left the T and capped where the old hose entered. The T has an electrical to it, I wasn't sure if it was some sort of solenoid or thermostat.

Bellinghamster
09-13-2008, 03:50 PM
The electrical bit is the thermostat sender for your temp gauge on the dash. You can remove the T and put the sender directly into the manifold if you want a "cleaner" look to the top of the engine.

-Pete

PointTaken
09-19-2008, 07:20 AM
My heater core is now leaking in my 91PS. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?

bigmac
09-19-2008, 08:03 AM
My heater core is now leaking in my 91PS. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?

This is an often-discussed topic here as HeaterCraft's cores do tend to leak. Whether that's a function of bad design, bad winterizing, bad lake water -- that's up for debate. But HeaterCraft has acknowledged a problem with some of their cores from about 2002-2005 and they replaced them long after the warranty expired.

You can buy a new core and enclosure (grey box) from HeaterCraft directly, or you can buy them from SkiDim (http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1020) for around $100. According to legend, you can also use a heater core from a 79 Mercury Cougar and replace it in your old enclosure for about $40.

PointTaken
09-19-2008, 08:04 AM
This is an often-discussed topic here as HeaterCraft's cores do tend to leak. Whether that's a function of bad design, bad winterizing, bad lake water -- that's up for debate. But HeaterCraft has acknowledged a problem with some of their cores from about 2002-2005 and they replaced them long after the warranty expired.

You can buy a new core and enclosure (grey box) from HeaterCraft directly, or you can buy them from SkiDim (http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1020) for around $100. According to legend, you can also use a heater core from a 79 Mercury Cougar and replace it in your old enclosure for about $40.

Thanks. I'll check with skidim.

bigmac
09-19-2008, 08:09 AM
Thanks. I'll check with skidim.



http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1020

PointTaken
09-19-2008, 01:32 PM
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1020

Thanks again.

I guess I need to rip mine out to see what series I have. Hopefully not 100, as skidim is showing only have the 200 and 300 replacement cores. I call them when I get a minute from work, and maybe they can shed some light on which I have.

bigmac
09-19-2008, 02:29 PM
It's mostly going to be a matter of whether or not your current blower motor will fit the tabs and mounting holes on the new enclosure.

PointTaken
09-19-2008, 03:03 PM
I'll see if I can the heater out tonight. Not looking forward to it. I'm not as flexible as I used to be.

bigmac
09-19-2008, 04:08 PM
I'll see if I can the heater out tonight. Not looking forward to it. I'm not as flexible as I used to be.

It's not too bad after you remove the driver's seat. Getting the kick panel out is kind of a PITA. I took the opportunity to replace the driver's vent with an additional hot tube. I found that, for reasons that are unclear, MasterCraft elected to glue the hoses onto the core barbs as well as use hose clamps. Also, the new enclosures are a little different size than the older ones, so the screw holes into the mounting plate are a little different. No big deal.

PointTaken
09-19-2008, 04:19 PM
The glue would explain why I had to cut the water return line to cap it. I couldn't get it off to save my life and the heater was still leaking after I closed the water valve on the inlet.

bigmac
09-19-2008, 08:10 PM
The glue would explain why I had to cut the water return line to cap it. I couldn't get it off to save my life and the heater was still leaking after I closed the water valve on the inlet.

Boy...that all sounds very familiar.