View Full Version : Blower Switch
08-24-2008, 09:59 PM
My blower quite working and I believe it is an electrical issue. I thought it was the switch, however, I hooked up a new switch and it didn't solve the problem. I then hooked up the old switch to my stereo and it worked fine. I did notice at night that the blower swith light up when I flipped it, but not as bright as the other switches. Whereas my other switchs glow green, the blower switch was not nearly as bright.
I am think a bad connection but don't know where to look. I have a 93 PS 190. Blower switch is on the far right.
any help would be appreciated.
08-24-2008, 10:21 PM
Do you have power at the blower? If so, probably just need a new blower.
08-25-2008, 12:42 PM
You need to determine at what point in the circuit you are losing power. Use an ohm guage or even just a test light probe. I would start at the dash.
Q: Are you getting power at the switch?
If not then trace backward to a fuse or breaker, loose connection, etc...
If yes, Q: When you operate the switch is power going to the other side (terminal) of the switch?
If not, the switch is the problem.
If yes, Q: Are you getting power at the blower?
If not, there is a problem between the switch and blower.
If yes, then it is likely the blower.
You can disconnect the wires at the blower and run jumpers directly from a 12v source to test it.
08-25-2008, 01:06 PM
Bill's got it covered. Follow those steps and you'll figure out which part is bad.
My blower switch was bad, but I couldn't find a replacement that matched, so I "rebuilt" the switch. It was easy to do. There are pictures of the switch in my gallery...
Works fine now...
08-25-2008, 10:42 PM
Thanks for all the advice. I was going to disconnect the blower and hook it straight up to a battery to see if it is the blower. If I use a volt meeter, do I simply touch the yellow wire to see what voltage is running to the switch. Like I mentioned, the switch is working, I hooked my radio up to it and it ran just fine . . .
08-26-2008, 09:35 AM
Using a volt meter to check the switch you must either use the ohms range of testing or be certain that you have voltage reaching the switch:
Using the ohms, the easiest setting is the alarm mode in the ohms range on the volt meter (usually indicated by a symbol like a bell). You can test this by touching the probes against each other. When they touch the alarm will sound. Place one probe on the terminal coming from the fuse block or battery and connect the other probe to the terminal leading to the accessory (in your case the blower). When the switch is closed - when you activate the switch then the alarm on your ohm meter will sound. This indicates that the switch has completed the circuit and electricity would travel through the switch.
If you have power at the switch from the fuse block/circuit breaker (and you are certain of it) you can use a setting in the DC range. You can test this by connecting to your battery. You should get a little over 12 volts. To test your switch connect the ground probe to a good ground under the dash. Touch the positive probe to the fuse block/circuit breaker side of the switch. IF you have voltage there you should get a reading near 12 volts. Then with the switch off connect the probe to the output terminal on the switch. It should not be reading. When you activiate the switch you should get about the same reading as you had when you tested at the fuse block side of the switch.
09-02-2008, 03:04 PM
Blower was bad. I checked the volts at the connection and they were at 12.8. Bought a new blower and installed -- works great. Thanks