View Full Version : Rub Rail Sealant/Caulk

07-08-2008, 01:06 AM
Some of the sealant on the underside of the rub rail has peeled off. What type can I use to repair the missing sections?

07-08-2008, 01:23 AM
subscribed to this, I planned to use silicone adhesive I got form the auto parts place, but am open to suggestions.

07-08-2008, 07:18 AM
Marine-grade silicone sealant--

Look here at West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/14400/377%20710/0/silicone%20sealant/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=silicone%20sealant&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=silicone%20sealant&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5000&subdeptNum=4&classNum=10890), for example

07-08-2008, 08:17 AM
I wouldn't waste your money on that (I mean spend that much). I actually work in the chemical/caulking industry and what you really want is an elastomeric adhesive/sealant. That is what is used in typical boat manufacturing. It has a stronger tensile strength and even bonds to oily surfaces. I work on the commercial side of things, but a good item to use would be something like Dap's 230 product. It meets ASTM-C920 which is the standard for marine applications. I don't know if Home Depot or Lowes, etc carries it (never checked), but here is a link to it through someone's website. Comes in all colors too.


07-08-2008, 08:31 AM
Elastomeric Sealant, now why didnt I think of that? :uglyhamme

07-08-2008, 08:35 AM
It's elementary Watson!

07-08-2008, 08:37 AM
Home depot has it, I may pick some up.


07-09-2008, 12:30 AM
After years of playing with the stuff, I have to say that Silicone Rubber Sealant is not an adhesive. It looks like it should be, if you get some on your fingers you'd swear it was, but anything that relies on Silicone actually sticking to something is going to fail. It works great as a sealant or gasket, where something (like a bolt) is holding pressure on a joint sealed with Silicone, but don't try to glue two things together with it, and don't expect it to work long-term as caulking.


07-09-2008, 09:29 AM
I was going to use silicone adhesive for some LED lights, one on the transom 2 on the gunnels and one under the times seat. You guys are leading me to return that and get the Elastickopico....:rolleyes: caulk. Any input/confirmation?


07-09-2008, 09:47 AM
I am going to be resealing my rub rail and am going with the elastomeric sealant. When sandwhiching the top and bottom halves together and any thru hull penetrations, that is what some big name brand boat builders are using in NC here that we sell to(sorry, not allowed to say names).

07-09-2008, 10:18 AM
your in NC, where at?

07-09-2008, 11:13 AM
In Raleigh, actually Knightdale which is 5 minutes east.

07-09-2008, 03:04 PM
rholmes, we would love some pics of your resealing project. A picture speaks a thousand words and for all of the do-it-yourselfers here, that would be awesome.

I think I can buy the sealant vs adhesive argument. It makes sense to me.

07-09-2008, 03:10 PM
I've always used life seal for thur hull seals etc My buddy who used to work for Malibu recommended it. Holds up very well. I used the clear version for my rub rail years ago.


07-10-2008, 12:07 AM
Puttin me on the spot, eh Boofer? I guess I could oblige. I should be getting to it by the end of the week, definitely by the weekend. I'll document as I go!

07-10-2008, 01:27 AM
You bet yah, rholmes! All kidding aside, thanks.

07-14-2008, 12:42 PM
Do I have to pull the rub rail off to reseal the meetpoints underneith? if so is that as easy as unscrewing the chrome piece on the transom? or do I have to pull out the bumper and unscrew it from the boat?

07-14-2008, 09:27 PM
IIRC, you remove the mastercraft chrome piece on the transom. There will be about a 2 inch gap. Pull on one end and start to "unravel". Not always fun. And yes, you do need to remove that to get to where the rivets go through. The easiest thing to do is put sealant on the rivets, re-install rub rail and then run a bead all the way around on top of the metal that holds the rub rail and below. The hard way (complete overhaul) requires removing the rivets to remove the rub rail holder. Then you have to install new rivets or replace with bolts. I am going off of memory here, but I am pretty sure that is what you have to do.

07-14-2008, 11:48 PM
3M makes a marine ADHESIVE & SEALANT called 5200, it is great stuff. However, do it right the first time, because it is hard to remove.

Marius Titulescu
09-08-2016, 03:49 AM
3M makes a marine ADHESIVE & SEALANT called 5200, it is great stuff. However, do it right the first time, because it is hard to remove.

Finally got around to try it out. By far one of the best adhesives (http://www.revetementagro.com/en/manus/) I've ever used.

09-08-2016, 12:25 PM
4200 too it isn't as unforgiving...

09-08-2016, 05:37 PM
5200 is overkill for just about anything. It takes days to set up, and even longer to cure. If you apply it to something, plan on never removing it. Because of the long set time, it's not really good for sealing the rub rail (it drips out and makes an unholy mess), and you'll never be able to separate the hull/deck again (although that's not a likely event).