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mpuett
07-06-2008, 01:50 AM
I have a 1990 Prostar 190 with 351 engine and velvet drive tranmission. During the 4th I noticied tranmission fluid in bilge area. I later brought the boat home removed floor boards and cleaned up the bilge area. Lots of tranmission fluid present during clean-up. Once everthing was cleaned up, I topped off the tranny with tranmission fluid hooked up my fake-a-lake and brought the engine to operating temp and engaged the propeller to exercise the tranmission However, I didn't notice a tranny leak from the tranmission seals. I don't think I want to tackle a tranny seal replacement but would like to confirm other possible leak options before I take to mech. The transmission appears to have water in the tranny and dip stick has a good expansion fit. Could the clooler be leaker fluid or doesn't system need to be under load to leak? What's the average price to have the trany seals replaced?

rholmes
07-06-2008, 05:20 PM
I recently had a problem with mine. It ended up being the shaft seal on the side where the splines went into the bellhousing. It was dumping the tranny fluid into the bellhousing and then leaking out (slightly) through the bottom with the majority coming out the starter hole. The shafts seals are an easy fix, but with water in the tranny, I don't know. Have you checked the cooler to see if it has any leaks? Does your boat generally take on a lot of water in the bilge?

mpuett
07-06-2008, 10:35 PM
I saw your posting and pictures, looked like a big job. I took the exhaust baffle (silencer) off today an noticed some oil coming from the cooler return hose not sure if this is from clean up or the hose is leaking. I plan to get the hose pressure tested tomorrow. My luck I'm sure its not the hose. Typically my boat does take on water. I have to dump the bilge every 4-5 hours when I operate the boat. Not sure where the water leak is coming from. This wasn't a big problem before trany leak. The only water leak I have that is visible is a droplet type leak from the raw water pump and I did notice a leak from the drain valve at the bottom of the silencer, normally used for winterization drain. No visual leak on the cooler. How can you check the cooler for leaks? I guess I could check the water coming out of the exhaust ports.

rholmes
07-07-2008, 12:31 AM
I would take the cooler off with the tranny hoses attached (Block or plug the bottom hose outlet on the tranny). Seal off one end with a bolt that is the correct size and blow air into the other end. Or when you look into the cooler, you might see a crack or some areas that look like oil has been leaking. Checking the exhaust ports won't tell if you are leaking water into the bilge. It would have to be a crack on the exterior of the cooler. Are your tranny lines tight on the transmission? Have you ever looked at the packing on the shaft where it exits the hull to see if water is dripping in?

jobondur
07-07-2008, 11:18 AM
This sounds like a problem I'm having. My boat has been taking on water for a while now and I just haven't been patient enough to really sit down and trouble shoot it. I have a bilge pump on a float switch and it cycles every 10 minutes or so. I've also noticed "small amounts" of oil in my bilge for a while but it was never enough to worry me and I always check my fluids to make sure they're topped off but have rarely had to add fluid to anything (engine, velvet drive tranny, walter v-drive). Last time I took it out, when I went to put my center drain plug in I noticed what looked like a lot of oil in my bilge (any oil in a bilge looks like a lot). It looks as if my tranny is the culprit but I'm not 100%. So that being said, what should I do? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but not enough to do what you said above. My transmission is in a very difficult location and I don't want to contort my body to do what you said. What do you think it might be?

rholmes
07-07-2008, 11:40 AM
What kind of boat do you have? Engine and tranny too. The packing nut on the shaft is something that needs periodical maintenance. It has a piece of rope inside (generally) that has a waxy substance. It keeps the shaft lubricated (just a little) and prevents water from entering the boat where it goes through the hull. Over time, they start to wear out a little and require tightening a large nut. The only other culprit that comes to mind for allowing water in would be the rudder and the swim platform holes (and those should not be leaking).

I am no certified mechanic or anything. If you are competent with a wrench and not afraid to change your oil or replace an alternator, any of these jobs are actually fairly simple. You just have to go slow and observe carefully where everything goes and how it comes apart. 99% of the stuff seems intimidating, you just have to overcome the fear that you are going to mess something up. It is only nuts and bolts. Just take your time and it all will go well. This is not my first inboard, but this has been a first for me for rebuilding the carb, yanking and redoing the tranny seals, etc.

ski_king
07-07-2008, 11:56 AM
When my boat was new, it was leaking transmission fluid thru the front seal. The dealer pulled the transmission and replaced the seal.

By the way, when the seal was leaking I learned a great way to clean the bilge of oil, etc.

Prior to pulling the boat out, pull the plug and let a inch or 2 of water into the bilge. Then add a few good squirts of dish soap. The go skiing for another hour or so. The soapy water cleans the bilge up nicely.

Be sure to drain the bilge into a bucket (or when no one is looking).

Kevin 89MC
07-07-2008, 12:53 PM
I have a 1990 Prostar 190 with 351 engine and velvet drive tranmission. During the 4th I noticied tranmission fluid in bilge area. I later brought the boat home removed floor boards and cleaned up the bilge area. Lots of tranmission fluid present during clean-up. Once everthing was cleaned up, I topped off the tranny with tranmission fluid hooked up my fake-a-lake and brought the engine to operating temp and engaged the propeller to exercise the tranmission However, I didn't notice a tranny leak from the tranmission seals. I don't think I want to tackle a tranny seal replacement but would like to confirm other possible leak options before I take to mech. The transmission appears to have water in the tranny and dip stick has a good expansion fit. Could the clooler be leaker fluid or doesn't system need to be under load to leak? What's the average price to have the trany seals replaced?

A long time ago, mine was leaking trans fluid (and started to slip a bit due to low fluid). Took it to the MC dealer, and they found the seal where the shift linkage entered the trans was leaking. Just thought I'd throw that out there as another item to check.
Good luck,
Kevin

jobondur
07-07-2008, 02:48 PM
What kind of boat do you have? Engine and tranny too. The packing nut on the shaft is something that needs periodical maintenance. It has a piece of rope inside (generally) that has a waxy substance. It keeps the shaft lubricated (just a little) and prevents water from entering the boat where it goes through the hull. Over time, they start to wear out a little and require tightening a large nut. The only other culprit that comes to mind for allowing water in would be the rudder and the swim platform holes (and those should not be leaking).

I am no certified mechanic or anything. If you are competent with a wrench and not afraid to change your oil or replace an alternator, any of these jobs are actually fairly simple. You just have to go slow and observe carefully where everything goes and how it comes apart. 99% of the stuff seems intimidating, you just have to overcome the fear that you are going to mess something up. It is only nuts and bolts. Just take your time and it all will go well. This is not my first inboard, but this has been a first for me for rebuilding the carb, yanking and redoing the tranny seals, etc.

I have a 96 Maxum 210SS Skier. It has a Mercruiser Black Scorpion 350 EFI with a velvet drive transmission and a walter v-drive. Maxum dabbled in ski boats for 3 years. I use this forum for information because there's little to no info about my boat online, much less a forum.

Also (ski king) - good tip about using dish soap, I'll try that the next time I go out.

rholmes
07-07-2008, 03:01 PM
No problem if you don't have a mastercraft. I am not familiar though with the running and steering gear on the maxum, so it is going to take a little more work for you to find the leak since not all of our culprit areas will align with your boat. Good suggestion on the rub rail. Does any portion of yours get wet while under way?

Edit: Found a pic of one and I could definitely see where you might get water in along the back where the rub rail dips down and around the platform. I would check the caulking around it and see if it looks dried up/gone.

mpuett
07-07-2008, 09:17 PM
I will check the areas you suggest. Thanks.

mpuett
07-07-2008, 09:18 PM
I haven't considered this as a problem. I will check this area. Thanks for the suggestion.

jobondur
07-08-2008, 02:14 PM
Edit: Found a pic of one and I could definitely see where you might get water in along the back where the rub rail dips down and around the platform. I would check the caulking around it and see if it looks dried up/gone.

I'll definitely check the rub rail. From what I remember, the silicon looks ok (but I'll definitely check it again, especially in the back) but the black rubber that is in the rub rail doesn't want to stay in. I've put it back in a number of times and it always works its way back out, usually in more than one place. Could that be the culprit or is there silicon under the metal piece that holds the black rubber??

jobondur
07-08-2008, 02:17 PM
Also, if the silicon were bad, what would you recommend using to replace it? Just regular marine grade silicon??

And would you suggest taking the entire rub rail off, applying silicon, and then reinstalling it or just running a bead along the top and bottom of the rub rail?

rholmes
07-08-2008, 04:28 PM
Your boat is essentially put together like a shoe box as people have put it lately, the top half fits onto the bottom half. The rub rail hides where the rivets or screws go that join the two sections. This warps and flexes with age and starts to let in water. I would remove the rub rail, check all the mechanical connections, slap on a thick bead of sealant, and reinstall the rub rail. There is a thread on what kind of sealant to use, just use the search function. I believe the thread was started today. It is the Dap 230 sold at Home Depot.

daveosbak
03-15-2009, 10:25 PM
Hello i just took out my back center and front middle floor board where the Bat gos and im trying to find out where i can find new ones to replace them with?If some one can please help me i would be very thankful.
Thanks Dave G

BrandonKTM
04-10-2009, 11:54 AM
Hello i just took out my back center and front middle floor board where the Bat gos and im trying to find out where i can find new ones to replace them with?If some one can please help me i would be very thankful.
Thanks Dave G Try starting a new thread with Floor boards or something similar rather than hijacking this thread about leaky trans