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View Full Version : Prop Guard Riding to Low


47Driver
06-21-2008, 11:55 AM
Greetings. I have the usual problem of the prop guard riding to low (single axle). My drive way has an incline and putting the boat in the garage is a chore. Right now I am laying down shoring to get it up the drive without scraping too much. A friend of mine said his buddy replaced the leaf springs on his trailer and got a couple of more or so inches out of it. I don't know if he incresed the amout of springs or just installed new ones of the same. I have a 1994 MC trailer so I would guess that the springs are worn out. I have looked into the rollers on the prop guard and I am also using a drop hitch as well. Thanks for the replies.

coz
06-21-2008, 12:11 PM
Greetings. I have the usual problem of the prop guard riding to low (single axle). My drive way has an incline and putting the boat in the garage is a chore. Right now I am laying down shoring to get it up the drive without scraping too much. A friend of mine said his buddy replaced the leaf springs on his trailer and got a couple of more or so inches out of it. I don't know if he incresed the amout of springs or just installed new ones of the same. I have a 1994 MC trailer so I would guess that the springs are worn out. I have looked into the rollers on the prop guard and I am also using a drop hitch as well. Thanks for the replies.

http://www.waterskis.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/prop%20guard.jpg

TMCNo1
06-21-2008, 12:33 PM
When manufactured, these trailers are built to operate within a nominal window of operating conditions when set up by the MC recommended hitch height. If the driveway is too steep, the apron to a gas station is too steep, speed bunp in a parking lot is too high, MC cannot set these trailers up for those extremes. It may not be the springs are weak or the trailer is worn out, or the tires are too small, but it's the enviornment we must navigate and do our best with it and adapt.

JDH88
06-21-2008, 02:37 PM
Where can I purchase the rollers?

TMCNo1
06-21-2008, 06:16 PM
Where can I purchase the rollers?
www.pakindustries.com (http://www.pakindustries.com/)

KRek
06-21-2008, 09:14 PM
I have a 96 single-axle trailer for a PS205 and experienced similar problems. My first thought was to install taller springs but I couldn't find any springs with a taller free height (camber) than what I already had (AWS-4, 4.25" FH). Adding drag wheels is a great option but I didn't like the idea of leaving the prop guard hanging that low and having to worry about it catching it all the time. I opted to raise the trailer by welding 3" long sections of 2" square stock A500 steel (.25" wall) to the top of the axle underneath the springs. This also required longer U-bolts which I was able to locate at a local Bumper-to-Bumper (8.5" long). This set-up gave me the lift I needed and has not affected trailering. If you're considering a lift, be sure to consider the boat launches you use since the additional trailer height requires that you back in a little deeper. I live in the west where the reservoirs have very steep shorelines so this has not been an issue. Also, it may be better to weld the lift blocks between the trailer frame and the spring hangers. This will eliminate the additional torque on the U-bolt assembly resultant from adding a lift block between the springs and the axle.

I still may end up adding some drag wheels for my driveway, but overall, I've been very happy with the extra 2" of lift.

OHIOPRO205
06-21-2008, 09:34 PM
I to added a 2" lift to my trailer. It made all the difference in the world for me. It doesn't sound like much but helps alot.

thijs
06-21-2008, 10:09 PM
KReK,

Can we see a profile of that lifted trailer with the boat on it?

uawaterskier
06-21-2008, 10:20 PM
eeekkkk. BLOCK LIFT?! You guys scare me. Please do not tow within 100 miles of me. Thanks Justin

KRek
06-21-2008, 10:47 PM
Here's a profile view. The extra 2" is apparent in the wheel wells but not a big a deal for me personally. For those concerned with aesthetics, you could throw on a larger set of rims.

jimmer2880
06-22-2008, 05:33 PM
eeekkkk. BLOCK LIFT?! You guys scare me. Please do not tow within 100 miles of me. Thanks Justin

Do you have something against the thousands of trucks that have block lifts on them? What about the FACTORY F250's that come with blocks under the rear?

Just remember to re-torque the u-bolts after 50 & 100 miles (they will loosen as they settle in)

Skipper
06-23-2008, 06:38 AM
...I opted to raise the trailer by welding 3" long sections of 2" square stock A500 steel (.25" wall) to the top of the axle underneath the springs. ...

How long have you been operating like that without issue?

Dan K
06-23-2008, 08:14 AM
I was looking at the picture of your axle and welded Block lift and could help but wonder why you can't just rotate the axle 180 degrees and rebolt the springs on. My trailer is an 81 with no brakes and it would not be an issue to rotate it, though I don't need the extra lift in my area.

TMCNo1
06-23-2008, 08:30 AM
Install air shocks and jack the sucker up!

Skipper
06-23-2008, 11:35 AM
I was looking at the picture of your axle and welded Block lift and could help but wonder why you can't just rotate the axle 180 degrees and rebolt the springs on. ...

Is it possible that there is some camber angle built into the axle? If that were the case, rotating the axle 180 deg. would create a very wrong camber which would induce some serious handling issues.

Jesus_Freak
06-23-2008, 02:07 PM
Greetings. I have the usual problem of the prop guard riding to low (single axle). My drive way has an incline and putting the boat in the garage is a chore. Right now I am laying down shoring to get it up the drive without scraping too much. A friend of mine said his buddy replaced the leaf springs on his trailer and got a couple of more or so inches out of it. I don't know if he incresed the amout of springs or just installed new ones of the same. I have a 1994 MC trailer so I would guess that the springs are worn out. I have looked into the rollers on the prop guard and I am also using a drop hitch as well. Thanks for the replies.

I have a 94 MC SA trailer, and my driveway has a similar incline problem. I installed new springs/hardware from a boat trailer supply company. PM me if you are interested. "Jeff in CO" recently did some work on his as well.

TMCNo1
06-23-2008, 02:22 PM
Is it possible that there is some camber angle built into the axle? If that were the case, rotating the axle 180 deg. would create a very wrong camber which would induce some serious handling issues.

Turning it upside down would create the loss of the use of the pin on the spring and hole in the axle plate that holds the axle from sliding back or forward on the spring. And, yes there is a slight amount of caster & camber built into the tires so they will run true under load. I went through all that when I had to have a factory fresh axle straightend and set that was bent during shipping and had to contact UFP for the proper measurements/settings.

georgea0731
06-23-2008, 05:05 PM
MC offered a 1" block, but I put on a 2" block on a 98 PS190 trailer. I had the trailer for 6 years with no issues. It was just like the one mentioned above. I first had 2" blocks cut, but then went to Freight Harbor (I think) and got professional made blocks and u bolts.

Jesus_Freak
06-24-2008, 12:32 PM
Turning it upside down would create the loss of the pin on the spring and hole in the axle plate that holds the axle from sliding back or forward on the spring. And, yes there is a slight amount of caster & camber built into the tires so they will run true under load. I went through all that when I had to have a factory fresh axle straightend and set that was bend during shipping and had to contact UFP for the proper measurements/settings.

UFP is whom I worked with as well. Excellent business.

NU-skier
06-24-2008, 01:51 PM
Longer shackles will also let you adjust the ride height. This worked on our street rods back-in-the-day (when gas was $.33 gallon) so we could get our tires to clear. Easy and cheap fix.

Ski-me
06-26-2008, 05:44 PM
I have a 94 MC SA trailer, and my driveway has a similar incline problem. I installed new springs/hardware from a boat trailer supply company. PM me if you are interested. "Jeff in CO" recently did some work on his as well.

I did both methods....add-a-leaf lift (2") and then some rollers on the back. If I did it over again, I'd do the roller's first and then if needed, add in a leaf. Here is a pic of my finished rollers. I had them place the wheels 3/4"-1" below the scrape bar. Also, pic shows 2" lift.

Get the plastic wheels so it doesn't mark up the driveway. I have brand new concrete and so far....no marks whatsoever.

cwright
07-15-2008, 04:02 PM
Just saw your post. I have same driveway issue but realized my prop and rudder would clear, just not my guard, so purposes of getting my trailer into my garage, I modified my guard so I could remove it, and bolt it back on. It's a 2 minute hassle I have to deal with at every outing but it is the only way I can get my boat and trailer backed up my incline driveway. Lesson learned, look for houses with flat driveways. My trailer guard is a bit different style (flat strap) or I would attach pics, but even with your channel style frame, I can see opportunities to cut it off, modify, and reattach. But before you go through all that, verify your prop will clear. Another trick is to use two drop hitches, one with more tongue drop than what you would haul with, and used only to back into your garage with. It will get you trailer tail up in the air higher and it might be enough that you can clear your driveway. Good luck.

Skipper
07-22-2008, 08:32 AM
I just replaced the old worn out leaf springs on my trailer. It actually raised the the trailer two inches (no blocks). The trailer rides much better than before and the prop guard clears more places it used to smack into. Next step is to install some rollers on the bottom of the prop guard. I definately recommend replacing worn out leaf springs. It cost $90 for the springs and took about two hours.

captain planet
07-22-2008, 08:42 AM
I used to have issues with my prop guard when towing with my old truck, 1996 Ranger 4X4 STX. Mostly because I should have had a 6" drop instead of the 4" drop. Now with my Suburban the receiver is lower and the issue is gone for the most part, however sometimes it still drags at some gas stations etc.

My trailer has the torsion axle, has anyone had these sag on them over time? It is hard to tell over 10 years if my trailer is sitting lower than it used to, or if it is still OK.

east tx skier
07-22-2008, 11:23 AM
Do you have something against the thousands of trucks that have block lifts on them? What about the FACTORY F250's that come with blocks under the rear?

Just remember to re-torque the u-bolts after 50 & 100 miles (they will loosen as they settle in)

In addition to this, get the axle aligned and then weld the pins in place just in case you back the boat off the back of a ramp. I know for those who have never towed a lifted boat, it might seem like it would handle differently, but the truth of the matter from someone who towed a boat with a 2" lift on it for thousands of miles while he owned it is that the boat doesn't handle one bit different. Check your tongue height, too, after the lift.

47Driver
07-23-2008, 09:12 AM
For the guys that replaced the springs where did you purchase them from and did you go with the original setup or did you increase the number of leaf springs??

47Driver
07-23-2008, 09:16 AM
I did both methods....add-a-leaf lift (2") and then some rollers on the back. If I did it over again, I'd do the roller's first and then if needed, add in a leaf. Here is a pic of my finished rollers. I had them place the wheels 3/4"-1" below the scrape bar. Also, pic shows 2" lift.

Get the plastic wheels so it doesn't mark up the driveway. I have brand new concrete and so far....no marks whatsoever.
Jeff,
How well do those plastic wheels hold up when all of that weight is applied? Where did you purchase them?

east tx skier
07-23-2008, 10:08 AM
Jeff,
How well do those plastic wheels hold up when all of that weight is applied? Where did you purchase them?

I think they may be poly wheels. Anyway, they hold up pretty well (I have some on my current trailer). Look at Tractor Supply if they have those where you are.

Ric
07-23-2008, 10:10 AM
Do you have something against the thousands of trucks that have block lifts on them? What about the FACTORY F250's that come with blocks under the rear?

Just remember to re-torque the u-bolts after 50 & 100 miles (they will loosen as they settle in)
I have no problem with rear blocks on truck lifts, but front axle blocks on a truck are a recipe for disaster. (Ithink)

Skipper
07-23-2008, 10:19 AM
For the guys that replaced the springs where did you purchase them from and did you go with the original setup or did you increase the number of leaf springs??

I bought my leaf springs from a NAPA store. They had a large inventory of trailer parts and accessories. I have seen them on the internet at several sites. Just google them. My origional application had 5 leaf springs. I bought a set with 6 springs. For some reason they were ten bucks cheaper that way.

The springs are rated by capacity. The 6 spring set I purchased was rated at 3500lbs each wile the 5 spring set was rated at 3000lbs. The only real issue with using springs that have more springs than stock it that they are thicker and may require you to use longer U-bolts. The U-bolts should be replaced anyhow, but just keep in mind to get longer ones.

Using thicker springs has no negative effect on stance, handling, or articulation. In my opinion, replacing the springs is a better alternative to blocks, extended shackles, or other tricks. In addition to the additional clearance, the suspension just works better.

Look at your leaf springs. At the back they connect to the trailer with some shackles. The shackles should be angled slightly toward the front of the trailer. When pressure is applied the shackles rotate to where they angle facing the back of the trailer and rebound when the pressure is relieved. If your shackles are facing the back of the trailer now, your springs are worn out.

jimmer2880
07-24-2008, 08:18 AM
I have no problem with rear blocks on truck lifts, but front axle blocks on a truck are a recipe for disaster. (Ithink)

I must be missing something here then.... I don't see how our trailer axle could be considered a front axle (seriously... I'm not trying to be a smart @ss). I am, by no means a suspension expert.