View Full Version : Need Help, can't get 1:1 tranny off motor 351w
06-07-2008, 09:34 AM
So I am trying to pull my transmission to be able replace the shaft seals (1990 Maristar with Borg Warner Velvet drive 1:1). I have removed the shaft coupling from the rear of the tranny, rear motor mounts, jacked the motor up in the air, and removed the bolts that connect the tranny to the bell housing. Now I am stuck. I have some space (about a 1/4 in) from the tranny and the bell house, but I can't seem to pry it off any further. It's like old drum brakes where the brake shoes are holding the drum on, only it's the tranny. Any suggestions on how to remove it? We have tried rocking it, prying, etc. No luck. Is there something inside holding it on? Help me get this baby in the water tomorrow! TIA.
06-07-2008, 09:57 AM
There shouldn't be anything else holding it on. Just the tranny input spline sliding out of the damper plate that's bolted to the flywheel. If the splines are rusty, that could be the hang-up. Is the 1/4" gap even all the way around the bellhousing? Sure you got all the bolts out?
I walked out to the shop to have a look at mine - I pulled the bellhousing w/ the tranny instead of the tranny off it, but looking inside there is nothing that would prevent it coming off the bellhousing as you're attempting. I was trying to visualize how to explain the angles needed to get some penetrating oil onto the spline... it's definitly not a straight shot from anywhere (best be is probably to remove the starter and shoot "for the middle" around the back side of the flywheel)
06-07-2008, 02:30 PM
Still need help. I can't get the sucker to come apart. Any other ideas? I removed four bolts and two nuts ( a total of six places the tranny was attached). The coupler still turns freely. I am at a loss here. Does the starter need to come off for any reason? If I pull the bell housing, then do I need to drop the oil pan as well in order to get it off? HELP!!
06-09-2008, 12:36 PM
Okay, five hours later and many attempts to remove (including unbolting bellhousing and trying to pry that off too, I ended up getting a gap wide enough to stick my thumb between the tranny and the bellhousing. Looking inside, it is COMPLETELY rusted. I have no idea how in the world to get the shat out of the input. Any help, suggestions or clues are much appreciated. I am at a loss. We soaked it in wd 40, pried with pry bars, no luck. We were pulling hard enough that the engine was lifting off of the bottle jacks. I need some serious help here if someone has any suggestions on how to break up the rust. Otherwise, I am stuck... and literally at that :). TIA.
06-09-2008, 01:15 PM
Wow, sounds like a huge pita. I'll be doing mine this year i hope its not that bad. what i've used in the past for stuck/frozen bolts is Kroil, its a penetrating oil that works extremely well. I've used it with great results for stuck/rusted suspension parts on old cars. Is there any way to get some heat to the stuck parts? Good luck!!!
06-09-2008, 07:24 PM
DANG! that's a bummer. I have run into this on automobiles in the past. What we have used to free stuck transmissions customers vehicles was a couple of pry bars just like the picture I've included. They need to be large and heavy in order to work right. Place them in between the bell housing and the back of the engine block. It works best if you can get them 180 degrees apart, or one at the 3 o'clock position and the other at the nine o'clock position for example. With two guys putting their body weight into it, and slighly rocking back and forth you can develop some pretty good leverage. Just remember to think about pulling the trans from the back of the engine as evenly as possible. In the worst case scenarios when this approach didn't work (after everyone in the shop has taken a turn) we have had to cut the input shaft on the transmission with a cutting torch...
06-10-2008, 12:01 AM
I was thinking of trying Kroil. My other option was to go with some Navel Jelly (Hmmm, tasty). I got a message from Eric at the CC board where he hangs (a transmission guru) and he said with it being in that shape, the damage is likely too far gone. It really won't matter how I get it off. He suggested a chisel or punch and to knock it at the input and on the splines to see if it will break loose. Looks like a new shaft for me. I'll post some pics up as soon as we get it open or that I can get a shot of the rusted parts. And no, I unfortunately can not get in with a torch head to heat it up. Stubborn rust. Sheesh!
06-10-2008, 09:43 AM
PB blaster too. and a hammer and punch. just dont do anything too drastic or you might damage the crank bearings, i would think.
06-10-2008, 08:16 PM
Did someone say Hammer. Really if you need some help I would be glad to give you a hand. Just let me know! We are heading to the lake on Sunday, maybe Jordan.
06-10-2008, 11:53 PM
I'll let you know. Thanks for the offer! I am actually leaving tomorrow for business for the rest of the week, but when I get back in, I might hit you up for a little elbow grease/hammer swingin!