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View Full Version : How to get a prop off?


MajorJohnson
05-26-2008, 08:18 PM
OK How in the heck do I get the prop off? The nut is removed and the prop will not move? Any suggestions?? THANKS :confused:

T Scott
05-26-2008, 08:21 PM
Usually you have to use a prop puller. Those suckers can really get on there tight!

MajorJohnson
05-26-2008, 08:28 PM
Yeah mine is not budging guess its off to the dealer in the morning!

P-hat_in_Cincy
05-26-2008, 08:33 PM
I use a big 2 jaw gear puller.

I've heard of some people hitting the shaft with a rubber hammer, but I don't know the details or results.

Tip: Don't take the nut all the way off. Loosen it, but leave it on so when the prop pops off it slams against the nut rather than your hand and/or rudder.

cdstukey
05-26-2008, 08:58 PM
Try adding a little heat, but be careful not to get the torch too close to your fiberglass. It will literally pop right off.

Willski
05-26-2008, 08:59 PM
Yup. I usually have to use a puller on mine. They get tight on the taper shaft.

TMCNo1
05-26-2008, 09:13 PM
Prop puller, plenty WD40/PB Blaster and if that doesn't work, add heat from the high setting on a hair dryer or heat gun to the prop hub and it will "bing"!

h2oskifreak
05-26-2008, 10:20 PM
Lowes carries a "c" clamp w/ a forked end that will work for less $ than a prop puller.

MajorJohnson
05-27-2008, 10:34 PM
Well I used the 2x4 gig and then I used the PB blaster then I used the lowes C clamp gig and the thing wont move!!! Should I use hair dryer gig then or take it and spend 100 bucks for the shop to take if off???

FrankSchwab
05-28-2008, 12:05 AM
Put the C Clamp on, and tighten down as far as you dare. Get a 5-pound hammer, and hit the end of the C clamp. That did it for me.

Alternatively, there are plenty of special-purpose prop pullers out there. Search Ebay with "Prop Puller", or order from OJ or Acme. The C-clamp style are built stouter than what you probably have from Lowe's, and have appropriate threads to get a strong pull on the prop. Acme has a "harmonic prop puller" that works a bit differently.

Good luck.

/frank

bepresto
05-28-2008, 12:28 AM
If PB Blaster did not work, might want to try a Zep product, like Zep 2000 or Zep Twister, These work much better, but good luck finding them.

bigmac
05-28-2008, 07:03 AM
I highly recommend a prop puller for those tapered shafts. It's basically just a modified C clamp for $70, but it fits the shaft exactly. I'd also definitely recommend looking up removal/installation instructions.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2

http://www.skidim.com/images/ironmang10.jpg

alletric
05-28-2008, 07:22 AM
I highly recommend a prop puller for those tapered shafts. It's basically just a modified C clamp for $70, but it fits the shaft exactly. I'd also definitely recommend looking up removal/installation instructions.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2

http://www.skidim.com/images/ironmang10.jpg

I agree. Not thst much money compared to a prop or shaft that could get damaged.

trickskier
05-28-2008, 07:27 AM
I highly recommend a prop puller for those tapered shafts. It's basically just a modified C clamp for $70, but it fits the shaft exactly. I'd also definitely recommend looking up removal/installation instructions.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2

http://www.skidim.com/images/ironmang10.jpg

I agree with bigmac too...................Invest in a prop puller!!!

mayo93prostar
05-28-2008, 07:32 AM
Get a prop puller as others have recommended. leave nut on end of threads because when it comes off, it will pop. I have had to put puller on, turn wrench to put a pretty good amount of tension on it and then hit the wrench end of the puller with a hammer to get the prop to pop loose. Heat on the prop makes sense too but I used a heat gun on mine and it did not work, had to use the puller and hammer. good luck.

Monte
05-28-2008, 08:23 AM
Heat (standard blow torch) works very well if you don't have time to wait for the prop puller. Just heat it evenly and stay away from the glass with the flame. The prop will basically fall off.

mbeach
05-28-2008, 09:27 AM
Lowes carries a "c" clamp w/ a forked end that will work for less $ than a prop puller. this is what i use now after having spent half a day trying to get the prop off. had to finally apply heat with a propane torch before getting the clamp. i had to apply more heat than i wanted to but it did come off. as someone mentioned, leave the nut on the shaft since the prop comes off very quickly and is very hot. i grease shaft now before reinstalling prop since i do not want to go through the prop pulling adventure again.

russlars
05-28-2008, 09:38 AM
The instructions that came with my ACME prop puller that looks like the one shown above said to hit the "fork" end of the puller with a hammer. I was surprised how many hits it took but it finally broke free with no heat applied.

87MCProstar
05-28-2008, 10:00 AM
i did what cincy does, picked up a cheap large auto gear puller and took one arm off. works like a champ

RickDV
05-28-2008, 10:09 AM
When you put the prop back on use a small amount of grease on the shaft and make sure the key is brass. If it is a ferris metal it will rust. Also, as you recall from high school physics, having two dissimilar metals in contact with each other will cause annodization which will make it difficult the next time again.

Hollywood
05-28-2008, 10:19 AM
When you put the prop back on use a small amount of grease on the shaft and make sure the key is brass. If it is a ferris metal it will rust. Also, as you recall from high school physics, having two dissimilar metals in contact with each other will cause annodization which will make it difficult the next time again.

Overtightening a C-shaped prop puller will put a side load on the hub and actually make it more difficult to remove the prop. Snug everything up by hand and give it a few taps on the front/bow side of the puller and it should pop off down to the nut you left loose.

If you have an older boat with a tapered shaft do not use grease, the taper is what keeps the prop tight on the shaft, not the key.

Those of you with SS shafts (probably all) and SS props, are you using SS or brass keys? Most SS shaft/brass prop setups I've see just use SS keys.

MajorJohnson
05-28-2008, 08:07 PM
PB Blaster $5.00

Boat Wrench $10.00

C Clamp $10.00

Taking it and getting a mastercraft dealer to remove it $22.00

Getting it re machined $80.00

Frustration Priceless