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sk8salomon
05-12-2008, 11:48 AM
Changed the oil in my '07 TT last month. Lately, say every 15-30 minutes of run time, a beeper will go off. If i press & hold the little toggle switch below the steering wheel, it will go off and reset. Everything is fine on gages. What is this? Some sort of service indicator? How can i reset it?

wakeX2wake
05-12-2008, 11:55 AM
pour a couple of bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the tank... a) can't hurt anything b) it made mine stop after de-winterization

sk8salomon
05-12-2008, 01:25 PM
thanks but what do dirty fuel injectors have to do with a computer warning signal? i seriously doubt the ECM knows its time to clean your injectors. i was hoping for some kind of resettable service button? thanks anyways.

JimN
05-12-2008, 01:39 PM
What is the switch used for, normally? It's a momentary rocker switch, right? You sure that's not for a depth gauge adjustment?

If you have the O2 sensor, it may throw a code and a buzzer but you wouldn't be able to turn it off with a convenient switch.

I guess read the manual and look for what the switch controls.

wakeX2wake
05-12-2008, 01:49 PM
I'm thinking mine was a knock sensor that was detecting poor quality gasoline from sitting all winter... the injector cleaner gave the gas quality a boost which allowed me to run the "bad" gas completely out... i had to use on two occasions and since first alarm have put approximately 70 gals of "new" gas in this yr and 2 bottles in on consecutive trips (planned this ahead of time)... alarm went off the thrid time i cranked after putting in the injector cleaner (about 30 mins of total run time) and has not been back on in about a month since... (about 50 gals of gas)

sk8salomon
05-12-2008, 01:59 PM
What is the switch used for, normally? It's a momentary rocker switch, right? You sure that's not for a depth gauge adjustment?

If you have the O2 sensor, it may throw a code and a buzzer but you wouldn't be able to turn it off with a convenient switch.

I guess read the manual and look for what the switch controls.

no depth gauge on mine. the o2 sensor makes more sense to wakex2's explaination. i've only filled it up once since I've owned it so maybe some cleaner is a good idea. but a knock sensor shouldn't have anything to do with gas quality should it? those are mounted in the block.

JerryS
05-12-2008, 02:23 PM
I've encountered the same thing on a friends 07' TT down in FL. One day, got in boat, started it - loud buzzer. MFD on tach said CHK ENG. By toggling the display selector switch, it toggles off of the CHK ENG screen on MFD - and effectively cancels the buzzer. Until it re-triggers.

You need to have your dealer hook up the scanner and read the code to find out what it is.

Could be something as simple as a knock sensor, O2 sensor, transient oil pressure, low voltage, or something else. You won't know till it is read with the scanner.

Did you buy the H2Osmosis boat?

JerryS
05-12-2008, 02:28 PM
I should also mention that in the case of the FL boat - he lived with it for about a month. Every time he'd start the boat - within 30 seconds - CHK ENG and the hi pitched tone. He'd toggle the display selector and life would move forward.

During an oil change a month later, he drained the oil and found that only about 3 qts came out. After the oil change, it never triggered again. He thinks it was low oil quantity. Never had code read.

So I'm not sure what the verdict was. I didn't think oil quantity was something that had a sending unit to the MMDC. How do you measure oil quantity with the engine running??

So I guess what I'm saying.....check the oil level, but get the code read by the dealer to be sure.

ttu
05-12-2008, 03:02 PM
just a possibility.

my 07 x2 with rtp engine kept sending a check engine message. dealer hooked up the scanner and the code came back as a throttle by wire. checked all sensors and cleared the code.

well the next time out same thing happened. again took it to the dealer. same error code. service manager called mc, and they told him to check all wires at the throttle. he did so and cleared codes. then took the boat out for a hour. said everything was fine.

dealer delivered the boat back to me on friday, so off we went to the lake on saturday. turned out fine. no more error messages.

Sodar
05-12-2008, 03:06 PM
Check all the connections under the dash and behind the kick panel.... I bet you will find the problem.

JimN
05-12-2008, 05:22 PM
Sk8- the knock sensor will detect knock if the octane drops and/or the air is hot and dry but it won't cause the buzzer. It should set a code, though.

JimN
05-12-2008, 05:25 PM
"he lived with it for about a month. Every time he'd start the boat - within 30 seconds - CHK ENG and the hi pitched tone. He'd toggle the display selector and life would move forward."

That's not smart. It's just a way to effectively cut the wires to the buzzer without using any tools. It's an '07. It's under warranty. WTH would he not talk to the dealer about this? The boat may have cost more than his car and he wants to risk killing the engine. That makes no sense at all.

JerryS
05-12-2008, 05:45 PM
I dont know, I'm not him and I'm only there 3 times a year. Just thought it was a similar experience illustrating to go get the code read.

JimN
05-12-2008, 06:05 PM
Oh, OK. Good point about having the codes read. It seems that a lot of people don't want to do this and I'm glad to see someone else recommend it.

sk8salomon
05-12-2008, 09:08 PM
Did you buy the H2Osmosis boat?

Yes, even tho it had high hours, i couldn't pass it up.

My question is this, If i take it to a dealership to have the code read, does it have to be buzzing or can they tell just by hooking into the ECM?

JimN
05-12-2008, 10:52 PM
The buzzer doesn't have to be going off, any codes stored will be viewable.

JerryS
05-12-2008, 11:05 PM
I called on that boat too, but you had already grabbed it. How do you switch between the ZO and PP? Is it just a case of turning one off and turning the other on? What happens if you turn them both on at the same time?

tr6coug
05-12-2008, 11:59 PM
After de-winterizing my '07 X2, I had the same check eng message and the warning buzzer going off. Hit the switch and it canceled for a few minutes before going off again.

Turned out to be a low-voltage warning because the battery had been disconnected over the winter. The ECM warns that it has seen low or no voltage eventhough you have a fully charged battery.

The solution was to either take it to a dealer and have them clear the flag in the ECM, or to do 3 warm-up cycles. A warm-up cycle is the engine temp going from less than 100 degrees to above 140 degrees.

So, I started the boat from cold and let it run until it got to 150deg, then shut it off and let it cool down to less than 100 degrees. Did this 3 times. Then after starting the 4th time, no warning buzzer or check engine message.

see this thread:

http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=22687

Hint: keep your engine hatch open when cooling down it will go quicker.

sk8salomon
05-13-2008, 08:22 AM
I called on that boat too, but you had already grabbed it. How do you switch between the ZO and PP? Is it just a case of turning one off and turning the other on? What happens if you turn them both on at the same time?

zo is always the master control so if both are on, it will take over 1st. you have to turn it off to get PP to work. i will say it's been really nice to use! i couldn't believe the accuracy. i was pulling a 34mph skier and got 16.96, 16.96, 16.95, etc. everytime head or tail.

sk8salomon
05-13-2008, 08:25 AM
[QUOTE=tr6coug]
Turned out to be a low-voltage warning because the battery had been disconnected over the winter. The ECM warns that it has seen low or no voltage eventhough you have a fully charged battery.

QUOTE]

BINGO! when i bought the boat, the battery H2O had in it was old & dead. had to put a new one in it 1st thing when i test drove it. so even tho the battery is new, the code will stay until the dealer clears it out?

sk8salomon
05-13-2008, 08:27 AM
see this thread:

http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=23322


that is THIS thead:confused:

tr6coug
05-13-2008, 11:39 AM
that is THIS thead:confused:

SORRY, fixed it. here is the correct one.

http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=22687

tr6coug
05-13-2008, 11:44 AM
so even tho the battery is new, the code will stay until the dealer clears it out?

Yup, thats correct. Or, until you clear it out with the 3 warm-up cycles. There should be an easier / less time consuming way of doing this in my opinion.

JimN
05-13-2008, 01:18 PM
Well, if it happens a lot, I suppose a resistor of the correct value for normal operating temperature could be used but if the key is on with infinite resistance on the ECT plug, it may throw a code. As long as the resistor is inserted and removed with the key OFF, it might work.

sk8salomon
05-13-2008, 01:54 PM
well, just called my local dealer and the service mgr said he's never heard of such a fix for resetting the code. He seemed to think that a loose sensor wire or something would cause it. I asked if I could bring the boat by this saturday a.m. early, but of course they are booked up. I'm going to try another dealer. Typical dealership crap!

wakeX2wake
05-13-2008, 01:55 PM
LOL... if he tells you its that easy to reset he doesn't get the $80/hr to look at it... they're in it to make money too... i enjoy great service but they're going to get theirs

sk8salomon
05-13-2008, 02:09 PM
Well, if it happens a lot, I suppose a resistor of the correct value for normal operating temperature could be used but if the key is on with infinite resistance on the ECT plug, it may throw a code. As long as the resistor is inserted and removed with the key OFF, it might work.

good point Jim, once you've reached the 150-deg temp and shut off to cool down, how do you know when to restart? without the key on, you are just guessing it has dropped below 100. i guess trial & error until you figure out how long it takes?

sk8salomon
05-13-2008, 02:10 PM
LOL... if he tells you its that easy to reset he doesn't get the $80/hr to look at it... they're in it to make money too... i enjoy great service but they're going to get theirs

i just love stealerships!!!

tr6coug
05-13-2008, 02:28 PM
good point Jim, once you've reached the 150-deg temp and shut off to cool down, how do you know when to restart? without the key on, you are just guessing it has dropped below 100. i guess trial & error until you figure out how long it takes?

You can turn the key on so you can see the temp gauge, just don't start the engine. I ran up to temp, then every hour or so turned on the key until it was below 100. Once it was below 100, I ran it up to 150 again.

It doesn't surprise me a lot that your dealer service guy doesn't know about this. Why would they ever have to go through it when they have a code reader and can reset the code in a matter of seconds. The conspiracy theory part of me tells me that they do this low voltage code thing to get you in to the service dept. for a reset and a service charge. Maybe there is a legit reason for it, but I haven't been able to figure it out. I'm just glad my truck doesn't give me a check engine light every time the battery has been disconnected.

sk8salomon
05-13-2008, 02:33 PM
no kidding, i'm thinking the same thing.

called another dealership and once again, I will say that Rambo Marine is the best dealership in the Southeast! Not only did they actually call me back, but also said that eventually it should reset itself. I'm going to try the 3x restart thingy this weekend so fingers crossed. Thanks for the help guys.

Sodar
05-13-2008, 02:39 PM
sk8salomon, I threw this pdf together, to illustrate my issue I had with my '07 197. Read through it, it might or might not help you out.

Good Luck!

Sodar
05-13-2008, 02:40 PM
Here it is in long hand, for those who cannot open it... less the pictures.


2007 ProStar 197: Check Engine Message/Constant Buzzer
Problem: Check engine message comes on after boat is running for approximately 30 seconds. All temps and volts are fine. Motor runs smoothly. Boat is not in limp mode and runs to operational RPM.
Also, while the engine is off, and the key is turned to the accessory mode (i.e. turning the stereo on) a constant beeper/buzzer goes off. Volts are normal at ~12.5 volts.
For both issues, if the wires running into the black box with a lime green cover are shook, jiggled and tapped, the buzzer goes off and if the engine is running, the check engine message turns off and everything returns to normal. As soon as the boat begins to get up on plane and the wire jiggles around a bit, the message and buzzer returns.

The pictures below show the black box with a lime green cover I described above.

Follow the main trunk harness located behind the driver’s kick panel from the floor towards the dash.






Coming out of the trunk harness are 4-red wires, 3-purple wires and 1-violet wire.


The wires run into the black box below.




And the wires terminate into the connector below, with a lime green cover. If this gets jiggled, all alarms and buzzer go off and the boat performs normally.




Solution: After the boat was hooked up to the ScanTool, it was discovered that there were no codes. The boat was started and the issue described above occurred. The mechanic decided to take my advice and check out the connector with the lime green cap. He ended up getting a small screwdriver, a pair of plyers and proceeded to pop the cap of the connector off (I had tried this before, but could not get the connector cap off). Once the connector was off, the problem was immediately visible. At the factory, the connector cap was installed, but one of the 8 prongs on the back of the lime green connector had been bent and did not make contact with the female side of the connector. If the violet wire was contorted and jiggled, it would make contact long enough for the buzzer and message to turn off, but would return once your hand was taken off the wire. The mechanic removed the cap, bent the prong back straight and carefully re-installed the lime green cap. The boat was started, the ScanTool was reviewed and there were not codes to speak of.
The boat has since been run for 1.8 hours with no issue. According to the mechanic, the lime green connector is not something they carry in stock and the female side of the connector (black side) would have required the whole wiring harness to be removed and replaced.

tr6coug
05-13-2008, 02:43 PM
Well, if it happens a lot, I suppose a resistor of the correct value for normal operating temperature could be used but if the key is on with infinite resistance on the ECT plug, it may throw a code. As long as the resistor is inserted and removed with the key OFF, it might work.

Good idea. If the temp sensor is just a potentiometer, connect a two way switch that has both a low temp resistance value and a high temp resistance value.

Start the engine low, switch to high, shut down, switch back to low. Repeat 3 times...

sk8salomon
05-18-2008, 10:55 PM
well, this weekend I went to the lake and tried the 3start reset. everytime i went to check the temp with the key, it always stayed around 150-ish. it never really dropped below that, even for over 30 minutes of cooling down, the gage never really moved. in fact, it would sometimes even drop once the engine was started i'd say because of water circulation. so now what? guess i'll try sodar's pdf next time.

JimN
05-19-2008, 12:34 AM
"connect a two way switch that has both a low temp resistance value and a high temp resistance value."

That really doesn't address the problem, though. I meant that it could be done to test the procedure for clearing the codes. AFAIK, this isn't a way to permanently clear them, but they could have changed some things since I worked at a MC dealer. For some reason, turning the key to ON and going WOT three times, then shutting it off rings a bell for clearing the codes. Again, this doesn't address the problem if there are actual codes, other than low voltage.