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murphfsu
04-06-2005, 03:28 PM
I have a 93 PS 190. I am looking to replace the rear floor board (fiberglass) that covers the exaust pipes and steer cables. The problem arose when the hinges holding my engine cover started to loose stability and ripped through the fiberglass floor panel. They only had a small washer holding them together.

Not a huge deal but I want to replace it with a new piece and carpet it. Any ideas on materials -- I was thinking an insulated piece of ply wood would work but was hoping to find the exact same material.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

jsonova99
04-06-2005, 03:34 PM
I don't know if you could find the same stuff or not. Can you fix the old one with some fiberglass? Otherwise I would probably just use a nice piece of plywood and fiberglass it to seal it. :twocents:

murphfsu
04-06-2005, 03:37 PM
That was my guess -- I was going to pull the carpet and see how it looked. It really has some flex to it now when you stand on it. I think the heat over the years from the mufflers compromised the material a bit.

I also replace the pumps on the engine cover with 40lb pumps when I probably should have used 20lb. The pumps were so strong they caused the hinges to rip through. Live and learn I guess

jsonova99
04-06-2005, 03:41 PM
I have a '91, and my floor is as solid as can be with ~730 hours on it.

east tx skier
04-06-2005, 04:01 PM
I have a 93 PS 190. I am looking to replace the rear floor board (fiberglass) that covers the exaust pipes and steer cables. The problem arose when the hinges holding my engine cover started to loose stability and ripped through the fiberglass floor panel. They only had a small washer holding them together.

Not a huge deal but I want to replace it with a new piece and carpet it. Any ideas on materials -- I was thinking an insulated piece of ply wood would work but was hoping to find the exact same material.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I have a 93 PS 205 and just dealt with the same issue. My section of floor behind the motorbox to which the hinges attach is made of honeycomb aluminum, not fiberglass. While I had that section pulled, I got some slightly longer screws and placed a thin piece of plywood across the underside of portion of flooring where the hinges attached and had pulled through (not the entire piece of flooring, just enough to cover the width where the hinges attach). I drilled small holes in it at the attachment point. I then reattached the hinges. The load was spread more widely and I haven't had any trouble with lose hinges since. It's easier to replace a thin piece of plywood than an entire floor section in my opinion.

jsonova99
04-06-2005, 04:05 PM
I have a 93 PS 205 and just dealt with the same issue. My section of floor behind the motorbox to which the hinges attach is made of honeycomb aluminum, not fiberglass. While I had that section pulled, I got some slightly longer screws and placed a thin piece of plywood across the underside of portion of flooring where the hinges attached and had pulled through (not the entire piece of flooring, just enough to cover the width where the hinges attach). I drilled small holes in it at the attachment point. I then reattached the hinges. The load was spread more widely and I haven't had any trouble with lose hinges since. It's easier to replace a thin piece of plywood than an entire floor section in my opinion.


Sounds good to me

east tx skier
04-06-2005, 04:21 PM
The problem is that the washers don't spread the load nearly enough. Cranking the screws down too tight will probably be enough to break through that floor. Not cranking them down tight enough will leave play in there and the weight of the engine box will pull them through. Just spread the pressure out and it'll solve the problem until the wood rots. I didn't even bother treating mine as it only took 5 minutes to put on and I'll have that floor board up once a year to grease the steering anyway. If it needs to be replaced, no big deal to do it.

murphfsu
04-06-2005, 04:32 PM
Thanks for the insight -- no that you pointed it out -- my floor is honey comb aluminum as well.

When you ran the plywood accross did your floor board no longer sit flush or did you not take it to the ends?

AirJunky
04-06-2005, 04:32 PM
I'm just about to deal with the same problem on my '94. I picked up the gas rams at Napa..... seems like I read they were 30 lbs. Anyway, the hinge screw are pulling the honeycomb floor so I was thinking I would stop by the scrap yard & make some aluminum backing plates for the bottom. The floor & carpet otherwise is in great shape with almost 600 hrs on the boat.

east tx skier
04-06-2005, 04:36 PM
That'd be even better. I just used wood because I had some sitting there and wanted to get it put back together.

sfitzgerald351
04-06-2005, 06:52 PM
I had the same problem, compounded by that particular section of floor moving around a bit since I don't screw it down into the stringers like the factory did. This is because after I had owned the boat for a while I discovered that water was infiltrating the foam in the stringers and making a big soggy mess so I drained the water and sealed the holes.

I had enough room on the sides of my motor box to relocated the hinges to the edge so they could go straight into the floor and not that removable section. Works much better now. But my motor box is huge so I don't know if this is possible for you. I sealed the screws with 5200 to hopefully prevent any water intrusion into the floor.

rem_pss308
04-06-2005, 09:40 PM
I'm just about to deal with the same problem on my '94. I picked up the gas rams at Napa..... seems like I read they were 30 lbs. Anyway, the hinge screw are pulling the honeycomb floor so I was thinking I would stop by the scrap yard & make some aluminum backing plates for the bottom. The floor & carpet otherwise is in great shape with almost 600 hrs on the boat.

They are 30 lbs. Do you have the NAPA part number I want tot order some new ones also.

scott88prostar
04-06-2005, 09:51 PM
Did you take the piece and turn it around...I had similar problems and the floor is rock solid...the floor was kinda bouncey before....also gives you a nice solid base for the dog house screws to be reattached. ....not sure that it will work for but it sure was cheap!

scott88prostar
04-06-2005, 09:52 PM
thats spin around not turn it over....but who knows that might work too!

east tx skier
04-06-2005, 09:58 PM
No, I left it as it was. It was easier to line up the screw holes to secure the flooring to the stringers. Even though the nuts and washers had pulled through, the plywood took the load fine.

brady1022
04-10-2005, 01:22 PM
I had the same issue with my 88 prostar. I just bought some marine plywood and replaced that one section, I suppose I could have been a bit more ambitious and sealed it with fiberglass, or at least some epoxy, however this was a quick, cheap and easy fix and has lasted 2 seasons so far with no problems. -Brady

Laurel_Lake_Skier
04-10-2005, 01:33 PM
I'm just about to deal with the same problem on my '94. I picked up the gas rams at Napa..... seems like I read they were 30 lbs. Anyway, the hinge screw are pulling the honeycomb floor so I was thinking I would stop by the scrap yard & make some aluminum backing plates for the bottom. The floor & carpet otherwise is in great shape with almost 600 hrs on the boat.
I used some aluminum pieces last year.....about 3/16 thick and 2"X3". I used a little bit of epoxy to hold them in place. Once the epoxy has cured, drill some pilot holes and screw the hinges back down. One other option that I think would work would be to reverse the floor piece. It seems like it would fit fine if the engine end was swapped with the seat end.

Bill do you recall the part no. for the gas shock? Mine is gone (as is the one for the passenger seat) and I think they should be the same as those used for a '91.