View Full Version : Dewinterizing for the first time, 2 questions

05-02-2008, 07:05 PM
1. Should the manifold plugs/knock sensor screw in more than 2-3 turns? Thats how far mine do before I feel like I would be forcing it too much with the wrench. I've attached a picture of a manifold plug and the knock sensor. First picture is of the knock sensor. Yes, I did not put teflon tape on the manifold plug put plan too.

2. Does the impeller fit in the housing very tightly? I had to tap it with a hammer to get it to go in the last 1/2" so it would sit in enough for the cover to go on. Is that normal?

05-02-2008, 07:07 PM
Picture of manifold drain plug

05-02-2008, 07:36 PM
From the pictures, your exhaust manifold drain looks like it should be going in further. It looks like the threads could use some cleaning up and that might help. Be careful to start the threads by hand and turn it in that way, then snug them down with a wrench. If you cross thread them, you could create a big project. I am not seeing the block drain as clearly in the photo but from what I can see, that should be in a bit farther as well. Don't force either one of them if they seem tight.....you might want to run the engine on the hose and watch for leaks once you feel they are tight enough.

05-02-2008, 07:43 PM
On your second question.....

Your impeller will be pretty tight. Did you use any sort of lube to help it slide in? Dish soap is my usual....then bump the engine over a bit (with safety swich pulled) and push on the hub of the impeller with screwdriver handle. If you have yours in and the cover plate on, you should be OK on the water pump.

05-02-2008, 07:44 PM
It looks like there is a fair amount of scale build up on the threads. It might help to clean up the male threads with a wire brush, as well as the female threads best you can. If you start the plugs in by hand, being sure they don't get cross-threaded, it's my recollection they don't turn in too many times before they feel "tight". You only have to snug them down a little. It sounds like you're OK. If you fire it up and none of the plugs are leaking you know for sure you are good to go.

05-02-2008, 07:51 PM
Ok thanks guys. I'll try to spray some WD-40 on the plugs and them clean them up and see if it gets any better.

As for the impeller, I coated the impeller shaft with a little bit of white lithium grease and tapped it on the last 1/2". I then cranked the motor over a few times and it rotated normally. I then screwed the cover on and was able to get it tight without much effort. I guess I was just suprised that they were that tight of a fit in the housing, I figured they just slid on with no problem.

05-02-2008, 08:40 PM
The knock sensor goes in finger tight, then add another 3/4 turn with a wrench. It shouldn't need more than that.

Go out and get some brass plugs for the exhaust manifolds.

05-02-2008, 08:41 PM

05-02-2008, 09:55 PM
You need to run a tap into the block. Scale buildup has covered your threads preventing it from going deeper. Then use a teflon tape to make it easy to remove next time.

05-02-2008, 09:57 PM
Alright well I finished up what I could tonight and have everything back together except for one of the manifold plugs. Basically it looks like neither of the plugs had ever been pulled out before last year. I taped up the port side one and got it snugged in pretty well, I don't think it will leak. The starboard side manifold is another story. The threads on it are pretty messed up, and I wasn't able to get the plug to thread in more than 1 turn before it backs out. Now, both plugs were looking pretty poor as well. Tomorrow morning I'm going to go out and get a new plug and see if I can get it to thread in enough and then I'll try to fire it up.

If I can't get a new plug to thread in, has anyone tried to re-tap their manifolds, or am I looking at having to remove it to be professionally fixed or replaced?

05-03-2008, 10:58 AM
I am going to do the same thing this week end. Do I need to be careful which direction the vanes bend?

I was going to use plumbing silicone grease. Does anyone know what the impellers are made of?

05-03-2008, 11:24 AM
Chicago190- you may think about getting a pair of brass 90 degree fittings that have a large barb on the side, and connect a piece of garden hose with a coupler in the middle. That would work the way the MC boats with the black plastic fittings do but the brass isn't likely to break. It would also allow you to use a sealant on the threads, since that part wouldn't need to come out anytime soon.

05-03-2008, 11:27 AM
daverbeck- you can also use dish soap or whatever you put on to get into your bindings. As long as it's not oil-based, it's OK. The impeller is rubber and oil-based will deteriorate it.

rotate the impeller in the same direction as the pump shaft when you install it (clockwise, as you face the crank pulley).

05-03-2008, 11:32 AM
re: threads in the manifold, the threads are cut into the casting and you can use a the correct [B]pipe [B]tap. Pipe threads are tapered so remove as little materal as possiable because you are effectively making the hole larger. Use brass fittings to make any future visits easier.

05-03-2008, 12:02 PM
Pipe threads are tapered, but only on the male part. The hole is threaded using a regular tap.

05-03-2008, 01:04 PM
There are no plumbing supply places open around here so I wasn't able to get an NPT tap. I replaced all the plugs with new brass ones. I don't think that either of the port side plugs will leak, but the starboard manifold plug is questionable. Also, I didn't use teflon tape on the knock sensor. If it leaks is it ok to tape it up because I believe the manual says not too.

05-03-2008, 06:36 PM
The one manifold leaks a drop ever 5 seconds or so. Next week I'll find an NPT tap and clean the threads up and that should solve the problem.

05-03-2008, 09:13 PM
You don't need a plumbing supply house, go to NAPA or any place that has a good selection of tools. Like I said, the manifold isn't tapered, the plug is. If you think about it, once a tap goes in to its limit, it can't advance to finish threading the hole. Plugs are tapped on a lathe, IIRC (the cutter can travel on an angle).

Don't tape the knock sensor- it decreases the sensitivity. Use Teflon paste, or find out exactly what the red stuff is that it comes with.

05-03-2008, 10:08 PM
Will NAPA have NPT taps? I'll give them a call if its that simple, but I thought NPT taps were hard to find.

I didn't tape the knock sensor and it didn't leak so I'm good to go. Thanks for the help Jim.

05-03-2008, 11:06 PM
Repeat after me; "THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD ISN'T NPT". It's a regular, every day, run of the mill tap. It just needs to be the right diameter and pitch. Take one of the plugs with you.

05-03-2008, 11:34 PM
Oh, I get it. I was confused because I read an old thread where someone had the same problem and someone said they needed a special tap, but there was no response after that.

05-04-2008, 12:46 AM
I see you're from Glenview- does Jim McMahon still own the sports bar on Milwaukee Ave east of the Super 8?

05-04-2008, 09:07 PM
I see you're from Glenview- does Jim McMahon still own the sports bar on Milwaukee Ave east of the Super 8?

If it was a steakhouse it closed 4-5 years ago. Thats the only place I know of that McMahon owned in Glenview.

05-04-2008, 11:44 PM
There was a little bar next door, too. That may have been the steak house, but it seemed like more of a place for people to go when they wanted to cheat on their husband or wife. The sports bar was next door and he owned both of them. IIRC, it was just SE of Allstate Insurance, maybe a mile or two SE of the merge on Milwaukee Ave. I used to stay at the Super 8 when I was down there for work.